Every bottle of wine has a story, whether it’s the history behind the winemaking, the grapes, region, or the memory attached to drinking it. This is a story of an Albanian family who has striven and succeeded in making a difference in war-torn Kosovo. The story begins with Rrustem Gecaj, an Albanian American who immigrated from Yugoslavia in 1974 to escape communism and the hardships that came with it. After living in Italy and then Canada, Rrustem was granted a visa to the United States in 1976. He made his home in New York City, became a United States citizen, and with his wife raised their children in the surrounding suburbs. Through wise real estate investments and other fruitful business ventures, Rrustem amassed an impressive portfolio. However, the ravages of the Kosovo War that raged from 1998-1999 weighed on him, and he longed to return to Kosovo to help rebuild the economy and create jobs for those less fortunate who had survived the war. It was also his dream to reconstruct the family kulla (“stone house” in Albanian) that was destroyed in the war. Kullas were created by the countrymen and date back hundreds of years. A kulla is traditionally made of four-cornered walls, each three feet thick and usually two to three stories tall. They are mostly windowless towers/fortresses that were built as a social center for the extended family, as well as for defense. Many businesses and wineries in Kosovo were once state-owned properties, including Stone Castle. Built in 1953 by the Yugoslavian government, the winery was originally known as NBI Rahoveci. When many businesses became privatized in 2006, Rrustem saw an opportunity to fulfill his dream. So, with enthusiasm and determination, Rrustem returned to Kosovo with the Gecaj family and purchased the NBI Rahoveci winery renaming it Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery. In 2008, Kosovo was recognized as an independent state. Kosovo is located in the Balkan region of southeastern Europe, and Stone Castle is situated in the heart of the Rahovec Valley, Kosovo’s premier, and dominant wine region. This region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with sunny days most of the year and ample rainfall during the summer. It is, therefore, an ideal area for growing grapes. The soil is rich in clay and limestone with elevations that can reach 1700 feet above sea level. Avdi, Rrustem’s son, said, “Our soil is fertile with no need for irrigation systems due to the sufficient amount of rain.” In Kosovo, two-thirds of vineyard plantings are red grape varieties that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and indigenous varieties such as Vranç, Prokupac, and Zhameta. White grape varieties include Chardonnay and Riesling, with the most planted and indigenous white grape variety, Smederevka. I recently sat down with Rrustem’s three sons, Avni, Avdi, and Arben. These amazing young men, who inherited their father’s passion for Kosovo and tenacity and vision for the wine business, have taken over the reins of Stone Castle. In 2015, Avdi took over the winery’s operations, and he spends approximately nine months of the year in Kosovo. Avni is the importer, distributor, and manager of the family wines. And Arben, the youngest brother, is finishing his Master’s degree in marketing and joining his brothers in the family business. I was curious why their father chose to buy a winery instead of a factory or other business. Also, is there a history of winemaking in the family? Avni replied, “My father had no background in wine.” He explained that his family came from generations of farmers, such as cattle farmers, sheepherders, and basically anything that had to do with farming. With all the factories and businesses that had become privatized, his father saw the greatest opportunity and potential in revitalizing the winery. Avdi said, “It is one of the only companies still operating since privatization. There are 32 registered wineries in Kosovo, and they are micro-wineries. Stone Castle is the largest.” When the winery was first purchased, there were only 250 hectares of vines, and all were uncultivated and neglected. Before the war, Kosovo had over 9000 hectares of vineyards with over a 2000 year history of winemaking. Advi explained that the Yugoslavian government ordered the farmers to rip out most of the vines, and in so doing, self-destructed the wine industry. With determination and lots of help, their father revitalized and saved the vines at Stone Castle. My next question was, who helped guide the family with the renovation of the winery and restoration of the vineyards? “We had winemakers come from countries such as Germany, America, Australia, and England to consult with us. Our three head winemakers have been at the winery for 35 to 40 years, since before the privatization. We also have two new winemakers from this region, three chemists in the house, and a certified lab.” Avdi added, “In fact, we have more certifications in the lab than the government of Kosovo! Our up-to-date technology allows us to better analyze the wine.” Avdi went on to say, “My father’s main objective, along with his nephew, was to give the people of Kosovo jobs and hope. We want to take the original business plan and expand it. We’re operating at one-third capacity and need to grow. We need to plant new seeds, open new markets and give the people of Kosovo more hope, more jobs and push the industry forward.” Avni said, “We want to put Kosovo on the map as a great wine region. We’ve already won over 100 awards for our wines from all over the world.” Since the purchase, they have planted close to 500 hectares of new vineyards. Seeds were planted in 2017, covering 50 hectares for their organic joint project with the European Commission, and they introduced Stone Castle’s first organic vintage in 2020. A small portion of the Stone Castle estate is certified organic, and they are slowly making their way into converting the older vineyards. The winery is committed to sustainable practices and is currently working on its Kosher certification. In addition to the state-of-the-art facilities, their underground wine cellar has an impressive storage capacity of 50,000 HL wooden barrels. Stone Castle is transitioning from bulk market to bottle. They use entirely different tanks for the estate as opposed to locally grown grapes. And they have created a 3-tier system for the farmers to encourage them to reach the first-class level and produce the best quality grapes possible. Stone Castle grows 19 varieties of grapes, including Vranç, an indigenous variety genetically related to Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz (this spelling is used in deference to the Australian winemaker who they consulted with), and Chardonnay. Stone Castle is now distributing these premium varieties in the United States. With over 250 people employed full-time and up to 700 part-time seasonal workers at Stone Castle, Rrustem is fulfilling a dream of giving jobs and hope to the people of Kosovo. In addition, the winery is producing some very impressive wines. Here is a sampling of six wines from the estate. Ancient Vranç Gjergj Kastrioti 2018 This wine is 100% Vranç and pays tribute to Gjergj Kastrioti, the Albanian prince and symbol of national unification whose name is featured on the label. Grapes are hand-harvested from the Lisdrevish vineyard that sits at an altitude between 1148 ft. and 1475 ft. The wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for nine months. This was my first experience drinking Vranç, and it was delicious! Aromas of red berries, baking spice, and earth segue onto the palate with notes of dark cherry, pomegranate, plum, blackberry, and spice. It is a rich wine that will pair well with grilled meat, hearty stews, and seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Shiraz 2018 The grapes for this 100% Shiraz are hand-harvested from the estate’s Izbishte vineyard located in the northeastern part of the property. The micro-climate here contributes to the production of high-quality grapes with optimal acidity. The wine is aged for 12 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. There are many berry aromas with dark plum and blueberry dominating the palate, with soft tannins and a touch of pepper on a lengthy finish. Serve with game, fowl, fish, or pasta with vegetables. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Merlot Selection 2018 The finest grapes for this 100% Merlot are hand-harvested from the Fushe – Zoqisht vineyard, which has high sun exposure sitting at an altitude of 1475 ft. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 20 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit and violet spill onto the palate with notes of cherry, berries, earth, and a touch of minerality. It is smooth and easy to drink. Pair with appetizers, spicy cuisine, pasta, or grilled chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Chardonnay Reserve 2018 The best Chardonnay grapes from the estate are hand-harvested from two high-altitude vineyards, Sapniq and Izbisht. The wine is aged for six months in French oak barrels. The nose offers a lovely floral bouquet and a hint of baking spice. This is a clean, crisp wine with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, and a soft creamy texture. It is fresh and balanced. Serve as an aperitif or pair with assorted cheese, grilled fish, seafood, or light pasta dishes. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 The grapes for this 100% Cabernet are hand-harvested from the Nashpall mountainside vineyard during late harvest. Vineyard exposure to prolonged sunlight contributes to quality grapes. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. A bouquet of dark fruit and a touch of earth segue onto the palate with silky tannins and notes of plum, black raspberry, and cherry. A touch of herbs and pepper linger on a long finish. Pair with grilled meat, hearty soups or stews, seared tuna, and grilled vegetables. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $24 Gecaj Estate Owners Choice 2017 This is the signature wine of Stone Castle. And, what is more fitting than to have an eagle, the symbol of Kosovo, on the wine label? It is a 50/50 blend of the estate’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The fruit is hand-harvested from the Izbisht vineyard at an altitude of 1640 ft. and receives 10 to 12 hours of sun each day. The wine is aged for 24 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. This is a vibrant and elegant wine with seductive aromas of red fruit, vanilla, and spice. The palate is layered with black raspberry, plum, cherry, anise, fig, pepper, and hints of dark chocolate. Silky tannins add to the wine’s complexity and depth. Pair with grilled meat, hearty stews, game, pasta, or a charcuterie platter. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $80 I asked why their father chose “Stone Castle” as the winery name. Avdi said, “In my house, we had a kulla that went back four generations. Kullas are made of mountain rocks in the region, and Kosovo has an abundance of granite and marble. Kullas were created as fortresses, but also where rules and regulations of the towns were made. If a rule was broken, it was discussed and judged in the kulla. When the Serbs invaded Kosovo during the Yugoslavian War, they were ordered to destroy as many kullas as possible using rockets and grenades. In 2001, my father went back to Kosovo and rebuilt the family kulla, which is the largest in the region right now. It is a historic site, and he did it for the people to show that you can’t destroy us; we will build back up! My father knew that one day Stone Castle would be an international enterprise, and so he named it in honor of the destroyed kullas and for the people of Kosovo. The Stone Castle Winery entrance is new, and a tribute to the kullas destroyed in the war.” As Rrustem’s sons continue to fulfill their father’s vision by growing, expanding the business, and providing more jobs and opportunities for a recovering Kosovo, they also have some impressive plans in the making. They are building a beautiful resort, a fairy tale stone castle, on the premises. It will be seven stories tall, with 82 guest rooms, a world-class restaurant, pools, golf course, bicycle and horseback riding, vineyard trails, and wine tastings. They said, “It is a destination spot for the Balkans.” I’m ready to book my reservation!
As we concluded our interview, I asked if there might be anything else they would like to say. Without hesitation, Avdi answered, “Kosovo is ready for the world!” Avni and Arben nodded in agreement. And, I concur! I will end this article with a quote from Rrustem. “For us, Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery convey a special sense of place, history, and growing traditions. Our wines will help share positive images of Kosovo, our people’s potential and capabilities.” Until next time... Cheers! Penina This article was originally published in Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It’s that time of year again to wear tee-shirts, shorts, flip-flops and embrace the warm weather. I, for one, am looking forward to outdoor concerts, picnics in the park, backyard barbecues, beach time, and pool parties. With the revved-up production of canned wines from producers worldwide, many quality canned wines are vying for space on retail shelves. According to Grand View Research, “The global canned wines market size was valued at USD 211.4 million in 2020 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 13.2% from 2021 to 2028. The rising demand for convenient, portable, and single-serve beverages is the key driver for the market growth.” What is a better way to enjoy wine without schlepping a bottle, corkscrew and stemware while off on an adventure? Single-serve canned wines to the rescue! They are not only light-weight and convenient to stow in your backpack or picnic basket, but quite a few are low in alcohol and contain a small number of calories. I have tasted many canned wines over the last few years and have been quite impressed with most of them. They are growing in popularity and more wine producers worldwide are getting in on the action. Here is a small sampling of canned wines to enjoy on your next outing or stay at home in the hammock time. All of these wines should be served chilled. Santa Julia Malbec Rosé Bodega Santa Julia is located in Mendoza, Argentina. This rosé is made with 100% organically grown Malbec grapes from Santa Rosa and Maipu vineyards. It is a very refreshing, dry wine that oozes strawberry flavors. Notes of raspberry, a hint of citrus, and a dollop of acidity round out this slightly effervescent rosé. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $11/2-pk Tiamo Organic Dry Rosé Spritz The Tiamo brand is produced by British husband and wife team Mel and Janie Master and the Sager family. This rosé is a blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano grapes sourced from vineyards in Chieti, Italy. It is fresh and crisp with flavors of berries, sour cherry, a hint of floral, and just the right amount of fizz. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $15/4-pack Rosé Water This dry rosé is made with Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Cabernet Franc grapes obtained from the Loire Valley in France and blended with sparkling water sourced from the Austrian Alps. Rob Kuchar, the founder of Rosé Water located in Wilmington, NC, created the product for “today's consumer who is focused on health and wellness in all aspects of their life.” He and his wife Amy spent almost two years creating the perfect blend. With only two ingredients, this is a light and refreshing wine loaded with cranberry, cherry, and berry flavors. Acidity and a nice sparkle blend well on the palate. Alcohol: 4.9% SRP: $13.99 - $16.99/6-pack Single 8.5% can/$2.49 - $3.99 Butternut Wines BNA Wine Group produces Butternut Wines. The company is headquartered in Nashville, Tennessee, with a presence and partnerships in Napa Valley, CA. Fourth-generation wine distributor John Hooper, second-generation winemaker Tony Leonardi, and industry veteran Gary Carr form the group. Their mantra is “discover the right vineyards, retain the natural characters in the grape, coax the best wine into the bottle and then offer the resulting wine at a great value.” All the grapes for Butternut wines are sourced and produced in California. Butternut Rosé This is a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Syrah. The palate explodes with flavors of raspberry, tangerine, strawberry, red ruby grapefruit, and crisp acidity. It is quite refreshing! Alcohol: 11.9% SRP: $6.99 for a 375ml can Butternut Chardonnay This wine is 100% Chardonnay. Aromas of floral, citrus, peach, and Honeycrisp apples segue onto the palate with hints of melon and a creamy mouthfeel. It is nicely balanced, with acidity showing through. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $6.99 for a 375ml can The Infinite Monkey Theorem Winery The infinite monkey theorem is an old mathematical theorem that states, “a monkey hitting keys at random on a typewriter keyboard for an infinite amount of time will almost surely type a given text, such as the complete works of William Shakespeare.” The Infinite Monkey Theorem winery was named after the above theorem. As Ben Parsons, founder and winemaker, said, “it’s all about creating order out of a chaotic system. Given an infinite amount of time, anything and everything is possible.” The grapes are sourced mainly from the western slopes of Colorado at an elevation of 4,500 feet. Bellini Wine Cocktail This wine is a blend of Riesling and Palisade Peach juice. The color is soft lemon with refreshing flavors of light peach and citrus and is lightly carbonated with just the right amount of acidity. Alcohol: 12.8% SRP: $14.99/4-pack Bubble Universe Made with Riesling, it is another lightly carbonated wine. The nose offers floral, citrus, and granny smith apples that segue onto the palate to blend with a tart but refreshing and zesty acidity.
Alcohol: 12.2% SRP: $14.99/4-pack Summer is in full swing! So grab your favorite canned wine and enjoy some “chill time”! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com This story was originally published on Santé Magazine. This story was originally published on Santé Magazine. We all have rituals that we perform day in and day out without batting an eye. I kick start every morning with a ritual of pouring a cup of coffee and then crawling back into bed with it to peruse the news. Rituals can be as simple as a morning run, yoga meditation, telling your child a bedtime story, or prayers over a meal. Many of our rituals go beyond ourselves and transcend to our families, religion, spiritual practices, and holidays. With Covid lurking around every corner, many life rituals and daily routines have been disrupted and are now temporarily on hold. Many of us have established new rituals and routines to take their place. Breathing is something I always took for granted until Covid brought it to my attention. And now, one of my new daily rituals is 10 minutes of deep breathing exercises to strengthen my lungs and calm my soul. For others, it might be inventing new ways to celebrate rites of passage, or writing in a journal. Since getting together online has become the “new norm”, several of my friends and colleagues have established cocktail hour rituals. Of course, one of my favorite rituals that I can continue despite Covid is pouring a glass of wine or spirits at the end of the day and doing a big exhale! So, I was most delighted when I recently received a shipment of wines named Ritual! I love the name and how fitting for this new chapter we are living in. Ritual wines are produced from the Viñedos Veramonte organic estate. It is located in the extreme eastern end of Chile’s Casablanca Valley wine region. With respect to Chile’s other wine regions, Casablanca Valley is relatively new. The first vineyards were planted here in the 1980s during Chile’s revitalization of its viticulture industry. Casablanca Valley wine region is about 20 miles long from east to west and is close to the Pacific Ocean. The vineyards for Ritual wine benefit from the cool morning fog and cloud cover. In addition, the cool sea breezes of the Pacific Ocean alleviate the heat of the day. Soil composition is a combination of decomposed granite soil, with a top layer of red volcanic clay. This soil allows the vines to go deep and absorb minerality, which reflects in the wines. With hot days and cold nights and a lengthier ripening period, the white grapes have more time to develop more complexity, flavor and maintain a good balance of sugar and acidity. These are ideal growing conditions for cool climate wines, and Casablanca Valley is noted for producing outstanding Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Cool climate red grapes also do very well here, such as Pinot Noir and Syrah. Fortunately, Covid has not interrupted the winery’s rituals and organic practices from the vineyard to the winemaking process. To quote from their website, “Crafting fine wine is steeped in Ritual and grounded in terroir. We endeavor in creating beautiful wines that are a reflection of this special place. Ritual is a labor of love. It connects us to the land we farm, to healthy living soil, and to the daily rituals of artisanal winemaking.” All the vineyards of the Viñedos Veramonte estate have organic certifications. Using low-impact farming methods, they make their own compost from the stems and pomace gathered during harvest season and manure from local animals to promote a balanced and self-regulated ecosystem. Cover cropping and seeding are practiced for revitalizing the soils. Sheep are used to “mow the grass” and also function as natural fertilizers. Grapes are hand-harvested in small batches, and once in the winery, only native yeasts are used to obtain a” natural balance and greater purity”. Different containers are used in the winemaking process, each one adding a unique characteristic to the wines. Oak barrels are used for structure, concrete eggs for texture, stainless steel drums for freshness, and stainless steel tanks for aromatics. Winemaker Sofia Araya produces Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir. These wines are aged in combinations of neutral oak, concrete eggs, and stainless steel tanks. Ritual Sauvignon Blanc 2019 30% of this wine is fermented in concrete eggs, 30% in neutral oak, and 40% in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged in each of its containers for eight to ten months, with each vessel contributing aromatics, flavors, and textures. This is a fresh and aromatic wine with aromas of floral, citrus, and white stone fruit that segue onto the palate with vibrant acidity, and hints of minerality. Citrus and nectarine linger on a long finish. Drink as an aperitif or pair with seafood, light pasta, and salads. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $19.99 Ritual Chardonnay 2018 This wine is fermented in 20% concrete eggs, 20% new 400-liter barrels, and 60% neutral oak. Amazing aromas of lemon curd, white stone fruit, and a touch of vanilla, spill onto the palate with a hint of oak. It is beautifully balanced with acidity and notes of salinity and minerality. This wine is fresh, lively, and elegant! Serve with cheese, light pasta, seafood, grilled fish, or chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $20.99 Ritual Pinot Noir 2017 This wine is fermented with wild yeasts to enhance its depth, intensity, and complexity. It is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. From aroma to the palate, this wine delivers “fresh and juicy”. One is greeted with aromas of cherries, berries, and floral. The palate offers raspberry, strawberry, cherry, notes of integrated oak, and a silky smooth mouthfeel. This is a fresh, well-balanced, and expressive wine. Serve with seared tuna, pasta, fowl, and spicy Asian cuisine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $20.99 In addition to the wines, I was gifted a “Rituals and Wellness” journal. Written on the cover are these words, “An Intentional Journal For Mindful Rituals & Wellness Intentions”. It is a perfect journal for an imperfect time. We are embarking on a new year that will surely bring more changes in our lives. We will find more new rituals, and hopefully, rediscover old ones again. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com My virtual plane recently flew me to the picturesque wine-growing region of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, CA. The Russian River Valley was granted AVA status (American Viticultural Area) in 1983 and is considered a premier region for cultivating cool- climate grapes. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel are the most planted vines here. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc follow. Within the valley, many established vineyards produce distinctively different wines from each other. Gary Farrell Winery is located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. It was while working with Russian River Valley vintners in the mid-1970s that winemaker Gary Farrell developed a reputation for producing elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. In 1982 and under his own label, Gary produced his first Pinot Noir from grapes grown in the iconic Rochioli Vineyard and the adjacent Allen Vineyard. Gary and his winery became renowned for producing small-lot Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in the Russian River Valley. He identified and secured grapes from only the best sites in this AVA. Gary built the winery in 2000, with a focus on his obsession for cleanliness, attention to detail, natural process flow, small tank fermentation, and top-flight French oak cooperage. Gary sold the winery in 2004, but to this day his legacy continues with collaborative partnerships with top growers and dedication to making wines that capture the essence and unique character of each distinctive vineyard. In 2012, winemaker Theresa Heredia joined Gary Farrell Winery. Her specialty is small-lot, single vineyard wines. Theresa said, “Coming to Gary Farrell was ideal for me with 36 different vineyards to work with. My primary goal is respect for the fruit and the vineyards.” She further stated, "I strongly believe in the Russian River Valley's capacity to consistently produce world-class wines. The key is cool breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean blanket." The Russian River Valley boasts a long, consistent growing season, allowing for a slow ripening process and good levels of acidity. In addition to the fog and cool breezes that relieve the summer heat, the 35-40 degree drop in temperature at night also contributes to the long growing season. Volcanic, sandstone and alluvial soils add to the aromas, vibrancy, intense flavor, and balance of the wines. With wine samples poured, Theresa walked us through a tasting of three Chardonnays and four Pinot Noirs representing seven different single vineyards. It was a stellar lineup of the 2017 vintage. Every wine shows the uniqueness and expression of their respective vineyards. Theresa said, “Vintage and site designation is the most important in making quality wine. We use gentle pressing and the use of light to medium toasted French oak barrels for all of our wines, allowing the fruit to shine through.” Theresa uses gentle, whole-cluster pressing, which produces a much finer and less bitter wine. Chardonnays Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay This vineyard is exposed to regular fog, and is moderated by cool breezes, crisp nights, and well-drained loam, clay soils that create a perfect environment for this well-balanced Chardonnay with rich acidity and minerality. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. Lovely aromas of pear, lemon, melon, and honeysuckle spill onto the palate. Vibrant acidity, hints of baking spice, lemon curd, and toasty notes add to the dimension of this wine, with honeysuckle lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $45 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay The legendary Ritchie Vineyard sits on a northwest-facing hillside in the heart of the Russian River Valley and is regarded as one of the best Chardonnay sites in all of California. The soil profile is comprised of *Goldridge series sandy loam and volcanic ash deposits, which contributes to the wine’s intensity and expressive characteristics. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. * ”The predominant soil type of the AVA is called Goldridge—a fine sandy loam covering about 60% of the area. The soil has a dark, yellowish, fine, sandy loam surface over a subsoil of golden yellow, sandy loam and fractured sandstone. It is derived from the remains of an ancient inland sea that slowly emptied into the Pacific three to five million years ago. It is particularly valuable for high-quality wine grape production because of its excellent drainage and low soil fertility. These characteristics allow it to be initially managed from a “low vigor” situation that may be readily customized with more water and/or nutrition, which directly contributes to wine quality”. Source: Paul Anamosa, Ph.D., Soil Science & Viticulture This is a vibrant and refreshing wine with aromas of citrus, tropical notes, and floral. The palate offers fruit-driven flavors of white stone fruit, lemon, pink grapefruit, nutty notes, and bright acidity. It has so much depth and character. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $60 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay The Rochioli Vineyard is a historic site that grows both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fertile, gravely soils and warmer daytime temperatures in this vineyard contribute to the wine’s flavor and complexity. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. Compared to the other Chardonnays that I tasted, this one has more citrus, fewer tropical notes, and more minerality. The palate is treated to juicy white stone fruit, lemon, white flowers, and toasted nuts. Crisp acidity and hints of baking spice add dimension to this beautifully textured wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $65 Pinot Noirs Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir
In 1964, the Bacigalupi family was among the first to plant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the area. In fact, their Chardonnay grapes became famous when they were used to make Chateau Montelena’s 1973 winning entry in the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976. The soil in this vineyard is gravelly sandy loam. Its unique climate features cool mornings and warm afternoons. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Inviting aromas of cherry, red berries, and spice are mouth-watering. Ripe, juicy fruit greets the palate with dark cherry, raspberry, herbal notes, and a touch of tobacco. Beautifully balanced, soft, and quite engaging. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $65 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is located in the Green Valley sub-appellation. The marine influence brings invigorating daytime breezes, followed by cool evening temperatures. The blend for this Pinot is a composition of many of the best blocks here, which produces fruit with deep, dark color and great structure. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. It has intoxicating aromas of floral, dark cherry, blackberry, and ripe strawberries. The palate is layered with earthy notes, dark cherry, spice, raspberry, and a hint of vanilla. This is a fresh and intense wine with soft tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $55 McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is close to the border that divides the Russian River Valley from the Petaluma Gap. This is where the fog first arrives inland from the Pacific Ocean in the morning and where it burns off last in the afternoon. The vines are planted in one to four feet of Goldridge sandy loam underlain with clay. The climate and soil produce small, but flavor-packed clusters and berries that have lots of natural acidity. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Seductive aromas and flavors abound in this complex yet light wine. Pomegranate, cranberry, strawberry, and earth fuse with hints of anise, pepper, cherry, and baking spice. Fruit and acidity meld together in this elegant and expressive wine. Alcohol: 13.3% SRP: $70 Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is located in an area called Laguna de Santa Rosa, which is in the heart of the Russian River Valley. The climate is influenced by the fog that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. It can cool the region down by as much as 40 degrees. High vine density planting exists here, much like that of Burgundy and the result is smaller berries and smaller clusters, which produce overall concentration and balance. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Wonderful aromas of cherry, dark raspberry, blueberry, floral and herbal notes segue onto the palate. The wine is a dance of savory and sweet with firm tannins and good acidity. This is a beautifully structured Pinot Noir with deep fruit concentration. Theresa recommends decanting this wine. Alcohol: 13.2% SRP: $65 If you love Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, then you must indulge yourself in these wines. The grapes may be sourced from different vineyards, but the wines all share one thing in common, the purity of the fruit and simple elegance. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com "Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away." -Maya Angelou. My first thought after being invited to explore the sparkling wines of Breathless Wines was that it was a rather unusual name for a winery. By its very definition, one might immediately think of not being able to breathe. Having just recovered from Covid-19, I admit that my thoughts did wander in that direction. But other definitions for “breathless” are anticipation, excitement, or the act of experiencing a strong emotion. And after tasting these enchanting sparkling wines, they did take my breath away but in a very positive way! The box that the wine arrived in was an eye-catching presentation with a lot of thought and love poured into it and certainly captured my attention! Breathless Wines, a female-led winery, was founded in 2008 and is located in Healdsburg, CA in the heart of Sonoma County’s wine country. It is owned and run by three sisters, Sharon Cohn, Rebecca Faust and Cynthia Faust. The winery was born out of a desire to honor their mother who passed away from a rare lung disease. I asked the sisters why the name “Breathless”. Sharon replied, “We are honoring our mom, Martha, who encouraged dreaming big. Our mom lived her life taking no breath for granted, even before her diagnosis, so the name Breathless fit her to a tee.” Their mother’s passion for life, to dream big and live life to the fullest was passed down to her daughters and is evident in every aspect of Breathless Wines The sisters, who refer to each other as sister 1, 2, and 3, each bring their unique expertise to Breathless. Sharon, (sister 1) Is the “glitz, glamour and panache” behind the bubbles of Breathless and handles all of their Marketing. Rebecca, (sister 2) brings her business savvy to Breathless with over 20 years of experience in the wine industry. She is co-founder of Rack & Riddle and has been the CFO of several wineries. And Cynthia, (sister 3) who is the ambassador for Breathless, has also been in the restaurant and catering area with her husband. I asked them why they decided to focus on sparkling wines. Sharon said, “ Sparkling wine has always been a favorite “go-to” over the years for all of us. Rebecca (sister 2) and her business partner Bruce Lundquist, started what has become the second-largest producer of sparkling wines, only behind Korbel. Custom crush for bubbles has increased in demand as they built the business from the ground up and so we had the perfect launching pad and with Penny, their executive winemaker willing to take us on, we began our quest.” Breathless winemaker, Penny Gadd-Coster, and honorary 4th sister brings her expertise and passion for producing Méthode Champenoise (traditional French method) sparkling wines. She was awarded Winemaker of The Year in 2013, just one of many awards in her 35 years of winemaking. Breathless Wines works with select vineyards throughout the North Coast of Sonoma County and Mendocino County. Their focus is on sustainability and finding the best grape clones within these choice vineyards. Sharon said, “Penny has worked with our vineyard partners, for over 13 years. She has a love for the Pommard Clone (Pinot Noir) and searches it out as she can. Her profiling and blending of the grapes to make the Breathless wines is spot on to what the sisters are looking for time after time!” And, indeed, these wines are “spot on”! Breathless Brut NV Sourced from vineyards in Sonoma County, this is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Aging is 24 months. Deep gold in color, wonderful aromas of brioche, tart apples, and a touch of floral emanate from the glass. Fine bubbles and a refreshing mouthfeel lead to a palate of melon, pear, citrus notes and a hint of vanilla that lingers on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $27 Breathless Blanc De Noirs NV Grapes for this wine were harvested from Sonoma County and is a blend of 93% Pinot Noir and 7% Pinot Meunier. Aging is 24 months. A soft salmon color sets the stage for succulent aromas of berries, brioche and a hint of spice. This is a refreshing wine with fine bubbles that enhances the flavors of strawberry, cranberry, cinnamon and a hint of spice. A touch of citrus zest lingers on the finish. Ooh, la la! Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $32 Breathless Blanc De Blancs NV Sourced from Sonoma County, this 100% Chardonnay is aged for 32 months. Pale lemon in color this sparkling wine opens to delightful aromas of sweet apple, baking spice, citrus and tropical fruit notes that spill onto the palate with a creamy and fine effervescence. Pear and a touch of vanilla linger on the finish that begs for another sip. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $34 I love wine labels and this one is certainly an attention-getter. Sharon explained how they chose this particular label. “We searched high and low for a label for Breathless. Our vision was of the hikes we took with our parents while backpacking in Yosemite and Yellowstone and every day hikes in Sonoma County. We would reach the summit and turn around to admire the view and were always reminded of how lucky we were to live and experience the beautiful nature all around. We were breathless from the hike and the view. We just couldn’t translate that to the bottle no matter how hard we tried. Our sister Cynthia found this beautiful 1915 vintage poster while googling champagne under Wikipedia. We all agreed it perfectly embodied our mom and her spirit. This label represents how our mom, Martha, lived life every day, always celebrating large and small accomplishments and time together. The woman on our label is not only a tribute to our mother but to all the men and women who teach and remind us to take each breath we are given as a gift to be cherished.” Have a glass of Breathless sparkling wine and enjoy the journey it takes you on. And remember, just breathe. Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Napa Valley might be one of the smallest winegrowing regions in the world, but it is renowned for its vineyards, wineries, and of course, wine! The Napa Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) became California’s first American AVA in 1981. There are approximately 46,000 vineyard acres and over 400 wineries spread across 16 AVA appellations. Napa Valley AVA is only 30 miles long and five miles across at its widest point. Although this is a dry Mediterranean climate, within the appellations and its sub-appellations there are diverse microclimates and terrain that contribute to the grapes distinct characteristics. There are more than 34 grape varieties grown here with Cabernet Sauvignon being the most planted and Chardonnay the second. Tony Coltrin is the winemaker for Oberon Wines, which is part of the Michael Mondavi Family portfolio. Tony was born in St. Helena and is a lifelong resident of Napa Valley. Earning his oenology degree at UC Davis, he has worked in the wine industry for over 45 years. He began his career with Robert Mondavi Winery. In fact, Tony is noted for his winemaking efforts on the first vintages of Opus One as well as Robert Mondavi’s Fume Blanc. I love this quote from the Oberon website. Tony says, “Being a winemaker is not something I do every day; being a winemaker is who I am every day.” Having the advantage of being a lifelong resident, Tony knows every expression of the valley and specifically which sub-zones produce Bordeaux grapes that are exceptional. His lifelong relationships with growers throughout Napa Valley are the very essence of Oberon’s quality and consistency. Tony selects top quality fruit year after year from the finest winegrowing regions throughout Napa. I received four Oberon wine samples representing Napa Valley and Tony’s gift for winemaking. All the wines are cellared and bottled by The Michael Mondavi Family, Napa, CA. Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2019 This is a blend of 75.6% Sauvignon Blanc and 24.4% Sauvignon Musqué. The grapes are sourced from the warm Pope Valley and cool Carneros appellations. Both cold tank fermentation and 13% barrel fermentation are used to maximize the overall fruit expression. “The cold-fermentation in-tank helps us maintain the pureness of fruit and aromatics, and barrel fermentation adds a subtle creaminess and length.” Floral, pear, melon and lemon aromas open to a palate of pear, honeydew, green apple, a hint of herbs and crisp acidity. The oak fermentation adds depth and richness along with a touch of creaminess. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with seafood, grilled white meat, veggies and pasta salads. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $19 Chardonnay Los Carneros 2018 This is a blend of 99.7% Chardonnay and 0.3% Muscat. The grapes are sourced from cool, breezy, sun-drenched, western facing slopes of Los Carneros. After barrel fermentation the wine is aged in 33% new French oak for seven months. A bouquet of white flowers, pear and honey lead to a rich palate of pear, honeysuckle and apples with vanilla and caramel lingering on the finish. Fresh acidity and balanced fruit add to the expression of this wine. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with fish, light pasta, grilled veggies, or Mediterranean fare. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $22 Merlot Napa Valley 2017 This is a blend of 87.7% Merlot, 10.9% Syrah and 1.4% Zinfandel. The grapes are sourced from the Oakville district. An extended maceration naturally softens the tannins and long fermentation in French oak barrels and 12 months of barrel aging. This wine has luscious dark fruit aromas that segue onto the palate with dark berries, plum, dark cherry and mocha. This is a well-structured wine with silky tannins and elegant notes. Pair with grilled meat, roasts, stews, or seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $23 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 This wine is a blend of 92.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.3% other blending varietals. Grapes for this wine are sourced from Napa’s outstanding areas such as Rutherford, St. Helena, Oak Knoll, Yountville and Pope Valley. Taking the different expressions from each area and layering the fruit, Tony has created complexity and richness in this wine. It is aged for 13 months in 45% new French oak barrels. Lovely aromas of violet, lush dark fruit and a touch of baking spice set the stage for this elegant and expressive wine. The palate offers layers of dark berries, plum, black cherry, spice and a hint of anise. Dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate linger on a long finish. This is a well-structured wine with silky tannins and richness. Serve with grilled meat, hearty fish, pasta, or hard cheese.
Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $25 These are complex and expressive wines and they can be enjoyed all year round. I know what I’m adding to my “pour list”. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com When last I wrote, my wine glass and I were enjoying wines from the Russian River Valley, California. However, before I leave this golden state, I have two more wines to taste. The Federalist is a wine brand created by wine producer Terlato Wines that was launched in 2010. It features a range of wines sourced from several AVAs such as Lodi, Sonoma County and North Coast. All the wines are cellared and bottled by Federalist Vineyards. The Federalist pays homage to the Founding Fathers, Statue of Liberty and the American Bald Eagle with etched portraits on each bottle. “Born from the virtues of every forward-thinking, hard-working, red-blooded American, this is The Federalist. This Is American Craft Wine.” I received two samples from the The Federalist portfolio. Chardonnay 2018 This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards in Mendocino County. It is the only white wine The Federalist produces. The wine is aged in 35% new American and Hungarian oak, with a touch of French. The Hungarian oak contributes to the wine’s spicy character and the American oak rounds it out with a sweeter finish. This wine opens with enticing aromas of citrus, floral, apple and baking spice. The palate is layered with juicy pear, apple, sweet spice and a hint of cinnamon. It is rich and creamy with a surprisingly long finish. Serve as an aperitif or with light fare. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Bourbon Barrel-Aged Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from vineyards in Lodi. The wine was aged for six months in American oak and then another six months in charred bourbon barrels. Lots of fresh red fruit aromas mix with smoke and spice. The palate offers juicy fruit, raspberry, cherry, smoke, spice and vanilla. This is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins and just the right amount of acidity. Serve with grilled meat, summer salads, veggies and spicy cuisine.
Alcohol: 14% SRP: $21.99 Stay tuned for more adventures of the traveling wine glass! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Many of us are dreaming of places we’d like to travel to but can’t right now so instead, we are navigating through websites, movies, books and food to vicariously enjoy an otherwise unattainable and hopefully, short-lived situation. I have been traveling far and wide exploring wine regions around the world, one glass at a time. Today my wine glass and I are off to sunny California to taste Ron Rubin wines. Ron Rubin Ron Rubin is no stranger to wine. Having grown up in the wine/spirit wholesale business that his father started in 1950 in Illinois, Ron decided to pursue a degree in viticulture and enology at UC Davis in the early 70s. Bitten by the bug of California wines, Ron started adding wines to the company portfolio. Ron recalled, “The salesmen could not understand how to sell these wines. What I learned early on was that I needed to take our team to California, visit the wineries, learn, and then come back to sell the wines. It worked.” It wasn’t until late 2011, that Ron fulfilled a 40-year dream and purchased River Road Family Vineyards and Winery in the Green Valley AVA, a subzone of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The winery sits in the mid-slope “sweet spot” of the Green Valley. Green Valley – Russian River AVA Although Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma, it is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. Its trademark is the fog and Goldbridge soil. The fog that originates at the Petaluma Wind Gap in the coastal mountains defines Green Valley. Due to Green Valley’s proximity to the gap, this is the first place that the fog rolls in and the last place to burn off. Because of this, Green Valley encounters cooler morning temperatures for a longer period, more so than the northern parts of the Russian River. Temperature shifts are subtler here and the cool marine climate, cooler daytime readings and long growing season allow the grapes to slowly develop character and flavor as well as retain acidity and balance of sugars. This, in turn, adds to the complexity, aromas, lower alcohol and freshness of the wines. Goldridge soil is the most predominant type of soil here. It is 60% sand, 10% clay and 30% silt particles that are the remains from an ancient inland sea dating back three to five million years ago. The soil consists of a top layer of fine sandy loam that covers a subsoil of sandy loam and fractured sandstone. The soil provides good drainage and excellent, natural chemical balance. This is a perfect growing environment for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. River Road Vineyards/Ron Rubin Winery The winery has nine acres of vineyards of which 6.5 acres are devoted to growing Pinot Noir and 2.5 acres are for growing Chardonnay. Ron also buys fruit from a carefully chosen handful of growers, three of whom have been selling fruit to the winery for decades. The winery is both SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified and Certified Sustainable by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. With his head winemaker, Joe Freeman, Ron produces two well-defined brands, Ron Rubin Wines and the River Road collection. I received seven bottles of wine representing both brands. River Road Collection Most of the wines in this portfolio are priced from $14-$20, with the exception of a Pinot Noir priced at $30. The portfolio includes an extensive range of wines established by the winery’s former owners. Ron believes that good wine should be accessible, “exceptional wines at a great value.” A signature of this collection is its easy drinking style. Ron says, “I’m a fan of low alcohol wines. I keep the alcohol in check to produce elegant wines that you can enjoy, glass after glass.” Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay grapes are sourced from both estate-owned and family-owned vineyards. This is a fresh, light wine with nice aromas of citrus and hints of honeysuckle. A palate of green apple, grapefruit, pear and crisp acidity makes this quite refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14 Reserve Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay grapes for this wine are sourced from the Russian River Valley. The wine is aged in both oak barrel and stainless steel tanks. Floral, pear and vanilla aromas segue onto the palate with hints of citrus, apple, peach and lemon zest on the finish. Bright acidity and a creamy mouthfeel blend well together. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $18 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are sourced from the Alexander Valley. This wine is aged for nine months in French and American oak barrels. A juicy bouquet of berries, plum and baking spice continue onto the palate with blackberry, strawberry, dark cherry and toasted oak. Fresh acidity rounds out the palate with a smooth and pleasant mouthfeel. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $25 Pinot Noir Stephanie’s Cuvée 2017 Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from Green Valley and the wine is aged in 20% new French oak barrels. This wine opens with a bouquet of ripe red fruit, floral, baking spice and a touch of blueberry and raspberry. The palate offers lush blackberry, raspberry, spice, cocoa and a dollop of dark cherry and vanilla on the finish. It is a smooth blend of fresh acidity and tannins. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $30 Ron Rubin Collection These wines are mostly made with Russian River fruit made from blends of different estates that add complexity and consistency from year to year. Winemaker Joe Freeman says, “Differences in terroir are more important with Pinot Noir. For Chardonnay, it’s the clones that have more impact.” The wines carry a price tag of $14-$25. Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay 2018 When Ron Rubin bought the winery, his wife Pam asked him to please make an un-oaked version of her favorite white grape, Chardonnay. Ron and Joe Freeman set to work and one year later, Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay made its debut. The grapes for this wine were sourced from Clarksburg, Lodi and Mendocino County. This is a fresh fruit, off-dry wine with plenty of juiciness and moderately low-alcohol. Citrus, lots of pear, sweet apples and nectarine envelop the palate. It is balanced with just the right blend of alcohol, acidity and sugar. And yes, there is the slightest hint of effervescence Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 Grapes were sourced and handpicked from an intricate blend of clones in the winery’s favorite vineyards. The grapes were barrel fermented with a mix of French and American oak. After fermentation, the wine was aged for over six months in oak barrels with another six months or so in the bottle. Pear, tart apples and baking spice greet the nose with an abundance of juicy pear, apples, honeydew and hints of minerality that entertain the palate. A creamy texture with a balance of bright acidity adds to the structure of this wine. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $20 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 This wine is made mostly from Green Valley grapes grown on the estate with some grapes acquired from a few local, family vineyards. The wine was aged in new French oak barrels. Aromas of ripe red fruit, sweet spice, cherry, berries and a hint of herbs lead to a palate of sour cherry, cranberry, ripe red fruit, vanilla and a touch of earth. Soft tannins and crisp acidity round out this fruit-driven wine.
Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $25 All of these wines are light, food-friendly and price approachable and they are fun to drink. Pour a little California sunshine in your wine glass! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com For me, there is nothing like pouring a glass of wine that not only sates my palate but can also conjure up sweet memories. And this quote from Coppo says it perfectly. “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste. This doesn’t have anything to do with its aromas or flavors, but of a sensation that awakens memories of pleasant times.” Piero Coppo founded Coppo winery in 1892 and it is one of the oldest family-run wineries in Italy spanning four generations. Piero’s philosophy was about making quality wine, not quantity. His sense of ethics, attention to detail, perfection, passion for the land and his vision for the future have been passed on from one generation to the next. Below is a photo of the four brothers representing the third generation with fourth-generation Luigi in the middle. This historic winery is located in the famous commune of Canelli, a subzone in the province of Asti in the Piedmonte region of Italy. Canelli is noted for its important role in history for being the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine made with Moscato Bianco grapes. Canelli became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2014 and it is famous for its surrounding historic vineyards and intricate subterranean wine cellars called “Underground Cathedrals”. These cellars weave in and out of Canelli for about 20 miles. Part of these historical wine cellars are located at Coppo Winery and are a UNESCO World Heritage site. While visiting Coppo a few months ago, fourth-generation Luigi Coppo gave us a tour of these impressive cellars. He said, “In parts of this tunnel there are over 42 meters of dirt above us. The tunnels are ideal for storing wine because it is stable in here with constant and perfect temperature and humidity. This all-natural tunnel was built in the late 18th century with an addition in 1920 that took only one week to build”! Below is a slideshow of the Underground Cathedrals. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Coppo built their business producing sparkling wines, but by the beginning of the 20th century, their production expanded to making classic Piedmontese reds, most notably, Barbera. Piero’s son, Luigi (second generation) entered the business in the late 1940s and was responsible for restoring and modernizing the winery. He also brought with him a passion for French wine. During the 60s and 70s, the winery began importing wines from Burgundy and Champagne. Luigi’s four sons (third-generation) entered the family business between the 70s and 80s). Inspired by the great French wines that their father imported, the four brothers infused their personal style in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines and Chardonnay. Coppo is one of the first producers in the area to make Chardonnay, although Chardonnay and Pinot Nero have been growing in the hills around Canelli since the early 1800s. Monteriolo Chardonnay is dedicated to their father Luigi and the first vintage was introduced in 1984. Here is a bottle shot of the 2017 Monteriolo Chardonnay that I tasted while at the winery. It was exquisite! Unlike many other wineries, the third generation made it their mission to maintain the quality of Barbera over quantity and ensure that its elegant character was preserved. This brought about a change for stricter management in the vineyards, lower yields, hand harvesting and introducing barriques during maturation, making Coppo at the cutting edge of Barbera’s rebirth. These changes helped to give the wines more complexity and richness. The 1984 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso was the first harvest, becoming the symbol of the winery. The fourth-generation, cousins Max and Luigi, are focusing on “a new style of communication”, called the Internet! By engaging the younger generation of wine lovers while blending “a lighter side of wine” with traditional values they hope to introduce their palates to affordable and quality wine. Today, the major part of Coppo production is focused on Barbera, Metodo Classico sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Moscato d’Asti. Coppo also makes classic DOCG Piedmontese wines such as Gavi and Barolo. It is interesting to note that due to the winery’s historical importance, they have been granted permission to make Barolo outside of its zone of production. The Coppo estate covers over 52 hectares of vineyards with the heart of productive vineyards in Monferrato in Southern Piedmont. Here is where Moscato Bianco and Pinot Nero are grown. Barbera grapes are grown in Agliano Terme and Castelnuovo Calcea located in the heart of the subzone, Nizza. Coppo also manages the estate La Rocca situated in Monterotondi di Gavi, where the Cortese grapes are grown. As stated by Coppo, “Since 2001, Coppo winery has followed an official protocol for integrated agriculture that sustains farming practices with low environmental impact. The winery goes above and beyond the regulations, and for several years now has decided to follow agricultural methods in the spirit of organic and biodynamic agriculture, while not being officially certified.” I asked Luigi how climate change might be affecting vineyards and production. His reply, “Climate change exists and of course, it is impacting our vineyards and production. What we are experiencing in the last years is an anticipated ripeness of our grapes, which means an anticipated harvest. It does not mean this is worse or better but we have to follow nature. We are experiencing higher temperatures now and that means higher alcohol. But please consider alcohol is not a problem if the wine is well balanced. For some specific varieties such as Barbera, we cannot control or decide what is the right amount of alcohol because we have to manage the acidity and so we have to pick the grape when the grape is ripe. We can pick grapes earlier but it won’t work out well.” I asked Luigi what the biggest challenge Coppo might be facing in the vineyards. He responded, “There is not a specific challenge. According to my father and uncles stories back in the day, the harvest season was more or less predictable. Today it is different and we have to “react” quickly. Every day is different and every harvest (thank god) is different too.” Upon my return home from visiting the Coppo estate, I received six bottles of their wines. The wines transported me back to Canelli “awakening memories of a special time.” These wines are all gems and worthy of review. Coppo Moncalvina Moscato D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli. It is a light, sweet wine with floral and stone fruit aromas that transcend to the palate. It has a natural light fizziness and is very refreshing. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $15 Coppo Costebianche Chardonnay 2017 This is 100% Chardonnay that is harvested from Piemonte DOC appellation. 20% of the must is fermented and aged on fine lees in French oak barrels of 2nd and 3rd-year use. This is a delightfully fresh and fragrant wine with notes of floral, stone fruit, apple and a hint of lemon. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Coppo La Rocca Gavi DOCG 2018 Gavi is a classic white Piedmontese wine made with 100% Cortese grapes. Cortese is one of the region’s oldest native grapes. The Tenuta La Rocca vineyard has marly calcareous soils that contribute to the wine’s mineral complexity. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach and pineapple lead to a palate of minerality, grapefruit, green apple, honeysuckle and a nice balance of fresh acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $20 Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Barbera. Wonderful aromas of juicy red berries and spice tickle the nose with a palate full of lively acidity, cherry, berries, pomegranate, spice and a hint of nutmeg. Raspberry and spice linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $17 Coppo Camp Du Rouss Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2016 I love the story that goes with the name of this wine. “Camp del rosso” in Italian means “the redhead’s field”. ‘Camp’ in Piedmontese means vineyard. The first owner of this vineyard was a redheaded man who was so burly, he frightened the children. However, the wine is far from frightening! It is 100% Barbera that has been aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Intense aromas of red fruit and spice lead to a palate of sour cherry, red berries, cranberry, spice and a hint of dark chocolate. This is a well-structured wine that lingers on the palate and begs for another sip. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Coppo Pomorosso Barbera D’Asti Nizza DOCG 2016 This wine is the most prestigious Barbera produced by Coppo. Its fame is owed to the significant part it played in the rebirth of this variety. With the release of the 2016 vintage, the wine bottle bears the new Nizza DOCG designation. This took years of collaboration to elevate the status of this vine growing region. The Coppo family along with other prominent Barbera d’Asti producers was involved in this effort and is now proud to represent this new designation. Grapes are sourced from 50 to 60-year-old vines in the Nizza DOCG appellation. The wines are aged from 14 to 18 months in French oak. This is a beautiful wine with nicely integrated tannins and acidity. Intoxicating aromas of red fruit, dark cherry, floral and baking spice segue onto the palate with dark plum, dark berries and a touch of sour cherry, pomegranate and herbs. I tasted the 2017 vintage while visiting Coppo and was reminded of how expressive this wine is. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $55 Every wine bottle is adorned with the symbol of a cherub. While visiting Coppo I photographed the statue, which sits on a shelf in their tasting room. I asked Luigi what its significance is. Luigi said, “This is a gift given from a sculptor to my great grandfather at the very beginning of the 20th century. It is a little angel (Cupido) trying to stop the fermentation of a bottle of sparkling wine (gran spumante). It became the logo and mascot of the winery.” Of course, I was secretly hoping that the cherub was trying to capture the aromas and essence of the sparkling wine! Although I couldn’t capture it on camera, the family motto is engraved at the cherub’s feet. “Robur et salus” (strength and health). Tasting all of these wines again was a treat for my palate. And it was wonderful to be briefly transported back to Piedmonte. Coppo definitely got it right when they said, “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste.” They certainly do! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com “SOMEONE ONCE TOLD ME YOU WILL NEVER FIGURE OUT BURGUNDY AND I PROBABLY AGREE, AFTER 30 YEARS. BUT MAYBE THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT. THE JOURNEY”. Dennis Sherman When an email popped up in my inbox asking if I’d be interested in receiving some samples of quality Burgundy wines from an online wine store based in Burgundy, my curiosity was piqued. Of course, I said yes! Not only is Elden Selections (https://www.burgundywine.com) worth writing about, but also the owners and creators of this online store are a fascinating duo to boot! Located in the east-central part of France with over 74,000 acres of vineyards, Burgundy (Bourgogne) is recognized worldwide and is considered the classic region for growing and producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The region is made up of five major growing areas, 3500 domaines, 100 appellations and over 1200 unique climate and soil compositions throughout. Needless to say, when shopping for Burgundy wines, it can be a bit confusing, if not overwhelming! Thanks to Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman (El and Den) owners of Elden Selections, they have taken the confusion out of selecting and buying these wines. It all began in 1983 when American born El and Den, with no return to tickets to Maryland, arrived in Europe with the notion of becoming apprentices to the great chefs of France. However, their journey began with backpacking, hitchhiking and making their way to North Africa for a while. With diminishing funds, they finally made their way to France. Temporary jobs saw them through a few seasons before finally getting bona fide jobs in Beaune and then eventually cooking on a hotel barge in Alsace and then in Burgundy. Two years later they bought Le Papillion, a 100-year-old barge and for the next ten years, they entertained passengers with French cuisine and wine as they traversed the waterways. Once back on dry land, El and Den established Elden Selections in1992, a Burgundy focused online wine store specializing in small-estate wine. Elden Selections is not a wine club and there is no minimum purchase required. All the wine is carefully selected and covers a wide range of appellations, with the focus on the producers. To quote Dennis, “For me, it’s all about the winemakers, the producers. We seek out those who are passionate, dedicated and creative. We work with them over many vintages to assemble our collection of wines that present the very best of Insiders Burgundy, its many and varied appellations, climats and vintages. We are not sure we'll ever figure it out fully but we are enjoying the journey. We hope you join us'. Elden Selections offers over 250 products from 30 producers, concentrating on small quantity, minimal intervention, farmer-made, food-friendly and estate- bottled. The price of wines ranges from under $30 to $300, including 13 Grand Crus! The website is user-friendly and includes invaluable resources for learning about the Burgundy region, each wine producer and a comprehensive description of each wine for sale. The website also has educational videos and wine tasting videos. El and Den have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years. They own a beautiful manor house called “The Domaine de Cromey” located just south of Beaune that is complete with six en-suite guest rooms. They offer food and wine workshops, vineyard visits and invites into wine cellars not usually open to the public. (www.domainecromey.com). In addition to wine, food is also a passion for the Shermans. Ellie is a professional chef and has published several cookbooks, sharing her joy for all things food. El and Den have an insider’s knowledge of the region, producers and wine. They live and breathe Burgundy every day. El and Den follow the harvest, taste the wines in the cellars before bottling and after bottling. I can’t think of a better place to research and buy Burgundy wines than on Elden Selections. And the best part is receiving quality wine for less than you would pay in a local wine store! The wines that I received were impressive and I will be savoring them over time thanks to my Coravin System! Check out Elden Selections website and let me know what you think!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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