It is truly remarkable how a simple sip of wine can transport me to a different place and time. In 2022, I traveled to Alentejo, Portugal, with a small group of fellow wine writers. We had the pleasure of visiting 11 wineries, and meeting engaging winemakers. We tasted memorable wines, indulged in the local cuisine, and soaked up this small region’s rich history and culture. I wrote many articles about Alentejo before my visit and several articles after returning. So, instead of repeating myself about its eight sub-regions, terroir, and grapes, please click “Alentejo” on the Categories list to read about this fascinating region, its wineries, and grapes. Or jump to this article for a quick introduction. thewineknitter.com/the-journal/alentejo-a-magical-wine-region While in Alentejo, we visited the estate of Herdade Do Esporão, located in the Reguengos de Monsaraz DOC sub-region. Herdade do Esporão is one of the largest wine producers in Alentejo. They have over 450 hectares of vineyards with 194 grape varieties planted on the estate, of which 37 are in full production. In addition to the wine vineyards, there are four types of olive trees in the 80-hectare olive groves, along with orchards and kitchen gardens. All farming uses organic methods and integrated production. They began the transition to organic farming in 2008, and 11 years later received their organic certification. I recently received Esporão Reserva Red and White samples, which I also enjoyed tasting while visiting the estate. (I took both photos 11/2022.) Although the samples are different vintages with new label designs, these wines evoke fond memories of a great trip! Esporão Reserva White 2022 DOC Alentejo This wine is considered the flagship wine of the Esporão Alentejo estate. Grapes are harvested from 18 to 27-year-old grapevines in certified organic vineyards with soil of granite/schist base and loam/clay structure. It is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro grapes. It is aged six months in stainless steel tanks and new American and French oak barrels. Nose: Hints of white flowers, honeydew, white stone fruit, vanilla, and toasted notes. Palate: This wine is fresh and vibrant with a touch of tropical notes. Honeydew, pineapple, minerality, and lemon zest are playful on the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $23 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with salads, grilled chicken, and sushi. Esporão Reserva Red DOC Alentejo 2021 Herdade Do Esporão first introduced this wine in 1985. It is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Aragon, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are sourced from vineyards with organic farming certification and vines averaging 20 years of age. This wine is aged 12 months in new (20%) and old (80%) American oak and French oak barrels, and then a minimum of six months in the bottle. Nose: Violet notes, dark berries, plum, a hint of cherry, baking spice, and pepper. Palate: Aromas dance onto the palate with spice and slightly chewy tannins on the finish. It is very drinkable now, but I used my Coravin and look forward to tasting this again in one year. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $23 Pairing suggestions: Serve with grilled meat, pasta, grilled or sautéed veggies, or burgers and fries. The next time you want to travel to a particular wine region, start with a glass of wine and let your palate begin the journey! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com For the past several years, I have delved into the wines of Alentejo, Portugal, through virtual tastings and many expressive wine samples. I have written articles about many of Alentejo’s wine producers, terroir, grapes, wine reviews, and the Sustainability program. But physically exploring this magical wine region has given me a whole new perspective. After visiting Alentejo in November, I came home with an enriched appreciation not only for the wine and how this region embraces the art of traditional and modern winemaking techniques but also for its history, culture, and cuisine. Most of all, I was awed by the impressive dedication, enthusiasm, and passion these wine producers possess. Over five days, we met with 11 producers, explored vineyards and cork tree forests, sampled wines made in amphorae (a traditional and ancient way of fermenting wine in clay vessels called vinho de talha), indulged our palates with amazing cuisine, savored local olive oil, and stayed in Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage Center! So, where to begin? Alentejo is divided into eight sub-regions, so let’s explore a few of the sub-regions I visited, along with wineries, cork tree forests, and so much more, one article at a time. If Alentejo is unfamiliar, below is a short recap from a previous article I wrote. Alentejo is situated in the southern half of Portugal and covers one-third of the country. It is about a 90-minute drive from Lisbon and a must-see destination. This wine region is one of Portugal’s largest production areas and is divided into eight sub-regions, as seen on the map below. Mostly, Alentejo enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate with some Atlantic influence. However, the sub-region of Portalegre experiences much cooler temperatures due to its proximity to the mountains. The terrain throughout Alentejo is primarily flat with gently rolling hills, and the soil varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, Alentejo has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills, and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone, and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. Portugal has more than 250 indigenous grape varieties and 14 regional wine areas. It rates as the highest density of native grapes per square mile in the entire world. Imagine the blending creativity winemakers have with all these varieties at hand. For over 2000 years, blending has been a tradition for Alentejo winemakers. With so many grapes ripening at different times, winemakers have turned what might be considered a liability into an opportunity to create beautifully blended wines. So, let’s start the adventure! Our first stop is a visit to Paulo Laureano Vinhos, situated in the sub-region of Vidigueira. Vidigueira It is the most southern of the Alentejo sub-regions with more than a 2000-year history of winemaking. The Vidigueira fault is a natural landmark separating the Alto (upper) Alentejo from the Baixo (lower) Alentejo and extends from east to west. Although it is the most southern of the sub-regions, Vidigueira has the mildest climate and, for many years, dominated the production of Alentejo white wines. The soil in this sub-region is generally infertile and mainly comprised of schistose and granite. Paulo Laureano Vinhos Paulo Laureano is not only an agronomist and winemaker but also taught agronomy, biology, microbiology, and oenology at the University of Évora for ten years before deciding to focus exclusively on his passion for “designing wines.” And he is the first generation in his family to make wines. Paulo said, “If you live in this country, it’s quite easy to start liking wines. You either have a passion, or you don’t!” Paulo continued, “Vidigueira is very different from the rest of Alentejo. The soil is mainly schist; we have dark schist that adds minerality to the wines. Most other areas are granite-based soils. This area has small slopes, whereas most of Alentejo is flat. It is hot during the day, and temperatures drop by 30º at night, which is very important for maturation.” Paulo purchased 100 hectares in Vidigueira in 2006. He kept some old vineyards with strong vines and began changing the others. “We have a selection of indigenous grapes that are separate from the rest of Alentejo. Not better or worse, just different.” He grows 12 indigenous grape varieties, six red and six white. Many of his red wines ferment in Amphorae. Red Varieties Aragonez (Tinta Roriz) Trincadeira (Tinta Amarela) Alicante Bouschet Alfrocheiro Touriga Nacional Tinta Grossa (Paulo: “very rare and only exists in Vidigueira. She is tough, and grapes are small.”) White Varieties Antão Vaz Aristo Roupeiro Verdelho Terrantez Loureiro When asked if he planned to go organic, Paulo’s reply was this. “Our philosophy and focus is sustainability. Perhaps we might go organic in the future. Our concern these days is not about treating the vineyards, but finding ways to give the plants more resistance and support against disease.” Paulo considers himself a minimalist winemaker, allowing the true essence of aromas and flavors to take center stage. We tasted ten of his wines, all impressive! Below is a slide show and a review of four of the ten wines I tasted. (Photo credits: Penny Weiss) Maria Teresa Laureano Verdelho DOC Alentejo-Vidigueira 2018
Fermented in stainless steel and aged in bottle. Fresh and vibrant with citrus, minerality, & tropical aromas. The palate presents with honeysuckle, citrus, minerality, and salinity. Dolium Escolha Branco DOC Alentejo-Vidigueira 2019 This 100% Antão Vaz is their top white wine. Grapes are sourced from the oldest (80+ years)vineyard. This wine is fermented and aged for eight months in new French oak barrels. The nose has hints of floral and citrus with minerality, spice, and elegant notes of tropical fruit segueing onto the palate with freshness, complexity, spice, fennel, and a long finish. Selectio Touriga Nacional DOC Alentejo-Vidigueira 2013 Touriga Nacional is one of the most famous Portuguese red grape varieties and is considered the queen of Portuguese reds. Paulo only produces this wine in years of excellence. It is fermented in stainless steel vats and aged in French oak barrels. It has aromas of rich, dark fruit, spice, and earth with minerality. The palate offers lush berries, jam, and spice. It is beautifully balanced and smooth with a long finish. Dolium Reserva Tinto DOC Alentejo-Vidigueira 2015 This wine is only produced in years of excellent quality and is Paulo’s top red wine. It is a blend of ten varieties, of which only three are identifiable, Alicante Bouschet, Alfrocheiro, and Tinta Grossa. The wine is fermented in open tanks and then aged in new French oak barrels, followed by a long period in the bottle. Aromas of dark fruit, herbs, spice, and a hint of tobacco segue onto the palate with well-balanced acidity. It is smooth with a long, persistent finish. Our visit to Paulo Laureano Vinhos was a great beginning to this magical trip. In my next article about Alentejo, we will visit Herdade do Rocim and Cortes de Cima, also located in Vidigueira. So stay tuned for wine and gastronomic adventures! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com This isn’t my first story or review of wines from the diverse wine region of Alentejo. These expressive wines are impressive and never disappoint my palate. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Alentejo wine region, here is a quick recap. Alentejo is situated in the southern half of Portugal and covers one-third of the country. This wine region is one of Portugal’s largest production areas. It is divided into eight sub-regions as seen on the map below. For the most part, Alentejo enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate with some Atlantic influence. However, the sub-region of Portalegre experiences much cooler temperatures due to its proximity to the mountains. The terrain throughout Alentejo is mostly flat with gently rolling hills, and the soil varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills, and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone, and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. For over 2000 years, blending has been a tradition for Alentejo winemakers. With over 250 indigenous grape varieties and 14 regional wine areas, Portugal rates as the highest density of native grapes per square mile in the entire world. Imagine the blending creativity winemakers have with all these varieties at hand. With so many grapes ripening at different times, winemakers have turned what might be considered a liability into an opportunity to create beautifully blended wines. Below are five samples of red blend-based wines from Alentejo. Herdade São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Red 2017 This wine is produced by Casa Relvas located in the Evora sub-region. It is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Touriga Nacional, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2017 was the third year of drought in Alentejo, but fortunately, due to the vines growing on clay and schist soil, they withstood the drought. Grapes are harvested in the evening when they are their most ripe. 50% of the wine was aged in French oak for four months. Lovely aromas of red and black fruits are inviting, with plum, raspberry, and spice thrown in. Aromas continue onto the palate with juicy dark cherry, blackberry, and a touch of herbs and earth. Bright acidity and firm tannins add to this beautifully blended wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $15 Adega De Borba Reserva Red 2015, DOC Alentejo Produced in the sub-region of Borba, this wine is a blend of 30% Trincadeira, 30% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Aragonez, and 20% Castelão. The grapes originate from old vines that grow in chalky-clay and schist. The blend is aged for 12 months in 3rd and 4th-year French oak and wooden barrels and another six months in the bottle. It opens with aromas that are reminiscent of rich dark jam, berries, and baking spice. The palate offers a wonderful balance of sweet and tart, with notes of sour cherry, plum, chocolate, and smooth tannins. Flavors linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $18 Esporão Reserva Red 2016 Herdade Do Esporão first introduced this wine in 1985. It is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Alicante Bouschet. Grapes are sourced from vineyards with soil of granite/schist origin and clay/loam structure. This wine is aged for 12 months in American oak (60%) and French oak (40%) barrels, and then an additional six months in the bottle. It begins with a rich bouquet of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, plum and baking spice. The palate is entertained with lush dark fruit jam, spice, and a hint of plum. Smooth tannins and a long berry finish add to the richness of this wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $24 Cartuxa, Tinto 2016, DOC Évora This is a historic winery with origins dating back to 1598. Carthusian monks who established the Santa Maria Scala Coeli Monastery were the first to make wine in Cartuxa. This wine is a blend of 40% Aragonez, 40% Alicante Bouschet and 20% Trincadeira. Grapes are sourced from vineyards with vines that average about 30-years of age, on soil of granite and schist. The wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and then an additional nine months in the bottle. Heady aromas of floral, dark berries, earth, spice, and toasty notes segue onto the palate with a touch of cocoa. It is beautifully structured with fine tannins. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Carmin Reguengos Garrafeira Dos Sócios 2014 Founded in 1971, the Cooperativa Agricola de Reguengos de Monsaraz is the largest winery in Alentejo. Vineyards for this elegant wine date back to the Middle Ages and surround the historic village of Monsaraz in the sub-region of Reguengos. 65% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional and 15%Tinta Caiada make up the blend for this robust wine. It is aged for 14 months in French and American oak barrels. After aging, the wine is bottled and laid down for at least one year before release. This wine has a seductive bouquet of ripe plum, dark fruit, and spice that spills onto the palate. It is a richly textured wine with added notes of blackberry, black cherry, earth, and pepper. The finish is long and graceful, with smooth tannins and fine acidity.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $48 All of these wines are beautiful blends representing the magic and artistry of the winemakers in Alentejo. The structure, complexity, and expressiveness are manifested in each bottle. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com There is much to be said about the expressive wines of Alentejo. Over the last year or so, I have reviewed many Alentejo wines and written several stories about this diverse wine region. Today, my attention is directed to the Sustainability Program (WASP, Wines of Alentejo Sustainable Program) and five wines from producers who are active members in this program. Alentejo covers one-third of Portugal located in the southern half of the country and enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate with some Atlantic influence. The soil of Alentejo varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. The Sustainability Program was launched in 2015 by CVRA (Comissão Vitivinicola Regional Alentejana). It’s objective is to reduce costs and increase economic viability through a proactive approach to environmental pressures and social concerns. Some of these initiatives include biodiversity and ecosystems, soil management, renewable energy and water conservation. In just five short years, the WASP program has established Alentejo as one of the world’s most progressive sustainability regions and is being recognized internationally for this award-winning program. WASP began with 96 members in 2015 and has grown to 396 members representing about 45% of Alentejo’s vineyard area. There are currently 1800 grape growers and 260 wineries in Alentejo. According to João Barroso, WASP Director of Sustainability, “Sustainability is the new paradigm of the 21st century. Producers who do not make sustainability a core part of their business model will become progressively outdated, side-lined by consumers and possibly through new intentional policies.” Each wine review ends with a “WASP Highlight”. Casa Relvas Sao Miguel Do Sul Red Blend 2018 A blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. Ten percent of the wine is aged in French oak for six months. A bouquet of violet, red and dark fruit lead to a palate of dark berries, cherry and a touch of spice. This is a juicy wine with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $12 WASP Highlight: Casa Relvas uses sheep to control weeds during the vegetative rest period of the vineyard, reducing the need for hydrocarbon-dependent herbicides. Esporão Colheita Branco 2018 Harvested from certified organic vineyards, this wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Viosinho, Alvarinho and a small amount of other grapes. This has refreshing aromas of grapefruit, lemon, and a touch of tropical fruit. A creamy palate (from four months spent on fine lees) blends nicely with tropical fruit flavors, peach and crisp acidity. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $16 WASP Highlight: Herdade do Esporão is one of Portugal’s most progressive wineries. They have led the way with a testing nursery to identify which indigenous grape varieties are best adapted to a changing climate. Herdade Dos Grous Red 2018 This is a nice blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Syrah that is aged for nine months in French oak barrels. Delicious aromas of ripe red fruit and spice segue onto the palate with dark cherry, plum and vanilla. Spice and cherry linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $19 WASP Highlight: Herdade Dos Grous has reduced bottle weight across all their wines. Herdade De Coelheiros Coelheiros Red, 2017 This is a 50/50 blend of Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet. It is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. A nice bouquet of red and black berries, spice and earthy notes envelop the nose. The palate offers blackberry, cherry, spice and pepper with a rich mouthfeel that is balanced with acidity. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $20 WASP Highlight: Herdade De Coelheiros uses bat shelters to encourage bats to make their home here – another natural approach to tackling unwanted insects in the vineyard. Carmim Reguengos Garrafeira Dos Sócios 2014 Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Caiada make up the blend for this robust wine. It is aged for 14 months in French and American oak barrels. Lots of plum, dark fruit and spice greet the nose and segue onto the palate with added notes of blackberry, black cherry, pepper and anise. A perfect balance of acidity and fine tannins add to the lengthy finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $48 WASP Highlight: Carmim composts all organic waste from the winemaking process (grape pomace and lees) into fertilizer. New additions to the winery include the installation of rooftop solar panels, taking advantage of Alentejo’s abundant solar energy. All of these wines are well priced and very pleasing to the palate. And, for me, it’s a bonus that these producers are making wine with an emphasis on sustainability and moving toward organic farming. Bravo! Until next time... Cheers!
Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com With 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered in Portugal and fourteen regional wine areas, there is much to explore and a lot of wine to taste. A few months ago I wrote about Alicante Bouschet, the signature red grape of the Alentejo region of Portugal. Today the spotlight is on Antão Vaz (ANT-ow VASH), the star white grape of this region. But before we dive into exploring this grape, let’s do a quick review of the Alentejo wine region. Portugal is divided into fourteen regional wine areas, each with its own unique geography and climate. The Alentejo wine region covers a third of Portugal in the southern half of the country and enjoys a Mediterranean climate. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. The soil of Alentejo varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz. Antão Vaz is a large, thick-skinned grape that is disease resistant and also highly resistant to drought, which makes it well suited to the hot and sunny climate of Alentejo. When grapes are picked early, the wines tend to be light and quite aromatic with citrus notes and crisp acidity. If the grapes are left longer on the vine, the wines can reach higher levels of alcohol, making the wine suitable for barrel aging. Antão Vaz is quite versatile and is made in a wide range of styles. It can be made as a single varietal but is often blended with other native grapes such as Roupeiro, Arinto and Perrum. I recently received a selection of wines that show how multifaceted Antão Vaz is. Esporão Monte Velho White Blend 2017 Herdade do Esporão has 450 hectares of vineyards planted in key agricultural areas. For this wine, grapes were harvested throughout the region, resulting from a partnership with suppliers from the different sub-regions of Alentejo. Monte Velho is a blend of 40% Antão Vaz, 40% Roupeiro and 20% Perrum. The color is vibrant lemon with aromas of citrus, stone fruit and hints of green apple. White flowers, citrus notes and peach layer the palate. Crisp acidity and a beautiful mouthfeel add richness to this wine. It’s easy to drink and will pair with a variety of food. It’s perfect to serve with Asian cuisine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $12 Herdade do Rocim Mariana Branco 2017 is a blend of 60% Antão Vaz 30% Arinto and 10% Alvarinho. The grapes were harvested from the sub-region of Vidigueira in the lower region of Alentejo where the climatic conditions are the most temperate. The wine color is light straw with a tinge of green. Delicate aromas of floral, peach and hints of mango segue onto the palate with tropical fruit and lemon. This is a refreshing wine with nice acidity and good structure. Serve with seafood, appetizers, light pasta and salad. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $13 Fitapreta Branco 2018 is a blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Tamarez, Arinto and Alcante Branco. Grapes are harvested from the sub-region of Évora located in the interior of Alentejo, which experiences typical mild and warm Mediterranean weather with more rainfall in the winter. The batches of grapes are fermented separately so as to preserve their distinctive qualities and only blended post-fermentation. The color is pale lemon with aromas of floral, citrus, candied apple and hints of minerality. Citrus, honey, pear, tropical fruit and just the right amount of acidity on the palate makes for a very refreshing wine. Serve with seafood, light appetizers and salad. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $22 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Antão Vaz da Peceguina 2016 is 100% Antão Vaz. Malhadinha Nova is situated in Albernoa, in the heart of lower Alentejo where the climatic conditions are the most temperate. The color of this wine is golden with lively aromas of tropical fruit, tangerine and honey. Subtle flavors of tropical fruit, citrus peel and an undefined mineral taste on the finish add to a fresh and well-structured wine. Try pairing with grilled fish and vegetables. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 The above wines are quite nice and they have piqued my interest in tasting barrel aged Antão Vaz. The barrel aged wines allow for the fruity characteristics of this variety to evolve and the texture becomes smoother as well. I’ll be sure to share my notes with you when I delve deeper into the versatility of Antão Vaz.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com There are 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered in Portugal, many of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The Alvarinho, Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are probably the most widely known by name. A lesser-known grape by the name of Alicante Bouschet is my focus today. Portugal is divided into fourteen regional wine areas, each with its own unique geography and climate. The Alentejo wine region covers a third of Portugal in the southern half of the country and enjoys a Mediterranean climate. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. The soil of Alentejo varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz, the star grape of the region. And speaking of stars, Alicante Bouschet is the signature red grape of the Alentejo region. Alicante Bouschet is a teinturier grape variety. Simply put, the flesh and juice are red in color. There are very few red grapes that have red flesh. Most wine grapes have white flesh and juice, even the dark-skinned grapes. Alicante Bouschet is the result of a French crossbreeding of Petit Bouschet and Grenache. It was introduced to Alentejo over 100 years ago and first planted at Herdade do Mouchão. Alicante Bouschet’s nickname is “Tinta de Escrever” (writing ink) for its production of inky colored red wine. In addition to its distinctive inky color, Alicante Bouschet wines are fruit forward and laden with dark fruit, spice and noted for their massive structure and firmness. I received five samples of Alicante Bouschet from Alentejo for review. They were all impressive! Herdade Do Rocim Alicante Bouschet 2016 is 100% Alicante Bouschet manually harvested from the winegrowing sub-region of Vidigueira located in Southern Alentejo. It has the most temperate microclimate of the region and the soil is predominately granite and schist. Fermentation takes place in stone lagares and the wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months and bottle aged for 6 months. Aromas of dark cherry, berries and hints of violets segue onto the palate with black and red fruit, spice and fennel with lingering notes of plum and dark cherry. Nice acidity balanced with firm tannins add to the quality of this wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20 Casa Relvas Herdade De São Miguel Alicante Bouschet 2015 is 100% Alicante Bouschet mechanically harvested at night from the winegrowing sub-region of Redondo. Vines grow in soils of clay and schist. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats with maturation in French oak. The nose offers fresh ripe fruit, blackberry, baking spice and earth. Cherry, plum, pomegranate, hints of herbs and lots of spice spill onto the palate with a satisfying finish of balanced acidity and tannins. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $23 Herdade Dos Grous Moon Harvested 2016 is 100% Alicante Bouschet hand-harvested at night from the Albernoa based vineyards in lower Alentejo. According to the winery, “the grapes are hand-picked in the cycle of greater influence of the moon in sap transport.” Vines grow in sedimentary schist and greywacke soils. Fermentation and maceration begin in traditional lagares (containers made of granite) and ends in new French oak barrels, aging there for 12 months. Concentrated aromas of dark berries, cassis, baking spice and vanilla envelop the nose. Layers of dark cherry, plum, blackberry and pepper tease the palate with a nice balance between the tannins and acidity. A silky mouthfeel and long finish add to the richness of this wine. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Dona Maria Grande Reserva 2012 is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet 20% Petit Verdot, 20% Syrah and 10% Touriga Nacional. The grapes are selected from old vines in the northern Alentejo area of Estremoz where the soil is clay and limestone. The grapes are vinified in ancient marble lagares using the traditional foot-treading method and the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for one year. Heady aromas of dark fruit, floral, anise and cocoa lead the way to an intense palate of dark ripe fruit, spice, hints of violet, vanilla and smooth tannins. The finish is long with a lingering taste of dark cherry. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 Herdade do Mouchão Red 2013 is 100% Alicante Bouschet sourced from the Carapetos Vineyard, the estate’s oldest vineyard planted in 1988 in northern Alentejo’s Portalegre area. The soil is a Mediterranean mix of clay and sand with a Mediterranean climate of cold winters and hot summers. “The wine is only produced in years when grapes attain exceptional ripening quality.” Once harvested, whole bunches of grapes are foot-trodden twice daily in stone tanks and then fermented, racked and aged in large wooden casks for three years. Once bottled, the wine ages for an additional 2 to 3 years. I’m starting my description of this wine with a big “Wow”! Seductive aromas of concentrated dark berries, dark cherry, floral, sweet spice and earthy notes had me salivating for my first sip of this wine. A rich texture of flavors danced around my palate offering lush fruit such as black cherry, black plum, sweet spice, pepper and notes of balsamic. Hints of licorice and chocolate lingered on a long finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine with firm tannins and acidity. An elegant wine, for sure!
Alcohol: 14% SRP: $60 Alentejo producers and growers embrace and practice sustainability with a mission to protect their fragile eco-system. In 2014, the Alentejo Regional Wine Growing Commission created a voluntary initiative for grape growers and wine producers called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme in order to improve social, environmental and economic welfare. Needless to say, Alicante Bouschet will now be a part of my wine collection. Alentejo wines continue to impress me and they are definitely worth exploring. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com When the topic of Portuguese wine comes up, thoughts might turn to the exceptional fortified wines that this country produces. But there is so much more to discover. I have written several stories about Portuguese wine, discussing some of its regions and producers. Here is a quick review: Portugal is located in the Southwest corner of Europe in the Iberian Peninsula. It is the westernmost country of Europe and surrounded by Spain to the North and East, and the Atlantic Ocean to the South and West. What makes Portugal so unusual with regards to wine is that it boasts a remarkable number of grape varieties that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. In fact, many of the Portuguese grape varieties are restricted to the national territory. There are 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered. The Alvarinho, Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are probably the most widely known by name. Portugal is divided into fourteen Regional Wine areas. Each region has a unique geography and climate, influencing the production of the grapes. Most of the wines produced in Portugal are a blend of several national grape varieties rather than using a single varietal. In fact, some winemakers will blend more than twenty varieties to attain the perfect balance. However, there are a few regions that produce a single variety grape, such as Bairrada, using the Baga grape (red) and in Moncao/Melgaco in the Vinho Verde region, using the Alvarinho grape (white). Overall, the most “popular” of the white grapes are Alvarinho, Arinto/Pederna, Encruzado and Fernao Pires/Maria Gomes. The popular red grapes are Baga, Casteao, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira/Tinta Amarela. My focus today is the Alentejo wine region which covers a third of Portugal in the southern half. (see map above) Alentejo has eight sub-regions that cover approximately a fifth of the Vinho Regional Alentejano region with climate and soils varying within the sub-regions. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. The soil of Alentejo varies throughout the sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. For instance, Portalegre is located well to the northeast at the foothills of the São Mamede Mountains with predominately granite soil, more rainfall and cooler temperatures. Borba, Évora, Redondo and Reguengos, located in the interior of Alentejo, experience typical Mediterranean weather which is mild and warm, with more rainfall in winter. The soil types vary between marble, red slate, brown Mediterranean soil, granite and schist. Whereas, Granja-Amareleja, Moura and Vidigueira are exposed to a much hotter climate with infertile volcanic soils of granite and schist and poor limestone based soils. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz, the star grape of the region. The following are Alentejo’s signature grapes: Whites Antão Vaz Arinto Fernão Pires Roupeiro-aka Malvasia and Siria Verdelho Reds Alfrocheiro Alicante Bouschet Castelão Touriga Nacional Trincadeira So, let’s check out a small selection of wines from Alentejo! Olho De Mocha Reserva 2014 is produced by Herdade do Rocim located in the southernmost region of lower Alentejo. The wine is 100% Antão Vaz. The color is golden yellow with subtle aromas of citrus, floral, apples and hints of minerality. The palate offers tropical fruit, honeysuckle, gentle citrus and lively acidity with a dose of lemon zest on the finish. This is a fresh and aromatic wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $30 Tinto De Talha 2014 is produced by Piteira located in the Granja-Amareleja sub-region. The wine is made with 100% Moreto grapes grown in a mix of sand pebbles and quartz. This is a “clay jar” wine, which is a 2,000-year-old tradition of making wine. The grapes are destemmed and crushed by hand and then the must and skins are deposited into large 520-gallon handmade talhas (clay jars) where fermentation starts spontaneously and lasts for about 3 months. The wine then ages for 6 months in the talhas with skins. The color of the wine is deep garnet with ripe fruit, floral and plum on the nose. Neutral flavors and a hint of bitterness remain on the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $23 Reserve Red 2014 is produced by Esporão located in Reguengos de Monsaraz DOP, in the interior of Alentejo. This is a beautiful blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes are grown in clay loam soils with granite and schist mother rock. The color of the wine is dark red bordering on purple. Aromas of ripe red and dark fruit, herbs and hints of oak segue onto the palate with cherry, plum and pomegranate, leaving a hint of tartness on the finish. This is a full-bodied wine with medium tannins and multiple layers. A very expressive wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $28 Evora Tinto Colheita 2013 is produced by Cartuxa located in the sub-region of Évora. The wine is a blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are grown in granite soil. The wine is dark red with aromas of sweet berries and dark fruit. The palate offers dark rich fruit, dark plum, cherry, spice, licorice, medium tannins and a peppery finish. This is a full-bodied wine with a lot of depth and character. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25 Monte de Peceguina 2015 is produced by Herdade Da Malhadinha Nova located in Beja, a southern sub-zone. The wine is a lovely blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are grown in free-draining schist soil. The color is dark ruby with heady aromas of lush ripe fruit, cherry and dark berries. The palate offers succulent berries, spice, anise and hints of pepper and herbs. White chocolate and cherry linger on the finish. This is a fresh, medium-bodied wine that is smooth as silk. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: 18.99 Alentejo producers and growers embrace and practice sustainability. In 2014, the Alentejo Regional Wine Growing Commission created a voluntary initiative for grape growers and wine producers called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme in order to improve social, environmental and economic welfare. In addition to wine production, Alentejo produces award-winning olive oil and is home to over one-third of the world’s cork forests. Alentejo has a rich and fascinating wine history, amazing architecture, mouthwatering cuisine and a captivating culture, all of which I will cover in another post. In the meantime, the next time you’re in a wine shop pick up a bottle from this impressive region. Most of the wines are available nationwide.
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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