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Join me on a road trip to visit four unique wineries along the southeastern stretch of Sicily. It is an expanse of land filled with beautiful landscapes, historic sites, ancient ruins, and distinctive terroir that lured these wineries here. And, of course, there is lots of wine and mouthwatering local cuisine to taste!  Planeta Buonivini Winery Photo credit: Penny Weiss My last article about Sicily covered Vittoria DOCG, the final stop on my southeastern wine tour. http://thewineknitter.com/the-journal/a-taste-of-vittoria Today, we will go back to the beginning of the tour with Catania as our starting point. The sea to the east and the mountains to the west were a constant companion as we traversed the terrain, making our way south.  On our way to Siracusa, we stopped for a seaside lunch at Stravento Ristorante Sul Mare in the hamlet of Brucoli in Augusta by the Ionian Sea.  View from the restaurant Photo credit: Penny Weiss Here is a sampling of the local cuisine we enjoyed. (All slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss) Having sated our palates, we continued on our journey south to explore a few wineries. Peter Vinding-Diers Montecarubbo Winery Montecarrubo is a small 5-hectare estate situated on the remains of an inactive volcano that exploded approximately two million years ago. It is near the town of Melilli, with breathtaking views overlooking the Ionian Sea and the bay of Augusta, between Catania and Siracusa.  Montecarrubo Winery Peter and Susie Vinding-Diers came to Sicily seeking unusual and serious terroir to plant vineyards. Peter’s extensive experience as a winemaker has taken him to places such as South Africa, Bordeaux, Brazil, Spain, Chile, and Hungry, always leaving his mark as a talented winemaker and innovator. And now, he and his wife are in Sicily making Syrah! Yes, I said Syrah. Peter said, “I tried making Nero d’Avola, but it doesn’t interest me. I’m here to make Syrah. The mutations of Syrah here are endless, and I wanted something more precise.” After finding the perfect setting, the winery was established in 2005. At the time of purchase, the land was just grass, stone, and old lava pieces. Once Peter began bulldozing the land, he discovered a “beautiful profile of perfect soils with different layers and a top layer of coral reef.” He described it as light sand with fragments of coral reef to the west with deep loamy granulated black subsoil full of oxygen. And to the east, facing the Ionian Sea, it is a former seabed with fossilized sand. “You could call this a paleolithic vineyard.”  Peter Vinding-Diers Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Susie Vinding-Diers Photo credit: Penny Weiss They planted two vineyards of Syrah in 2010. His wines from these vineyards have been rated among the best examples of Syrah in Italy. Montecarrubo is certified organic. Fermentations are spontaneous with natural yeasts, and the wine is aged in tonneaux with no filtrations. In addition to grape vines, Montecarrubo is also home to 1,300 mature Nocellara Etnea and Nocellara del Belice olive trees. These indigenous varieties, farmed organically, produce excellent organic extra virgin olive oil each autumn.  The olive trees are beyond the vineyard. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Our visit included a vertical tasting of Vignolo IGT Terre Siciliane 100% Syrah from 2012 through 2021, showing its ability to display fruitiness, depth, and elegance through all the vintages. Dark berries, minerality, soft tannins, and spice were ever present, with the 2017 vintage beginning to show more tertiary flavors. The wines are made in limited quantities and are available in several markets worldwide. So if you can find a bottle, you are in for a treat!  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Planeta “Buonivini” Winery Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. As seen on the map below, Planeta has six wine estates in five regions spread east to west in Sicily. The first vines were planted at Ulmo in 1985, and by 2015 they established their 6th winery, La Baronia at Capo Milazzo.  Today my focus is on their Buonivini Winery in Noto.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Planeta founded this estate in 1998. Patricia Toth, responsible for production and enologist at the Etna estate, said, “We moved to Buonivini to make what is the most elegant expression for us of Nero d’Avola and Moscato.”  Patricia Toth Photo credit: Penny Weiss Buonivini has 45 hectares and three vineyards that produce DOC Santa Cecilia (100% Nero d’Avola), Controdanza, DOC (Nero d’Avola and Merlot blend), Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC (100% Moscato Bianco, Moscato di Noto and Passsito di Noto that is made in a sweet and dry version. They also have a small area for Merlot and maintain four varieties of almond trees on seven hectares. The winery is “invisible” and underground. As Calogero Riportella, the estate’s enologist and agronomist said, “The cellar, which was built underground in 2003, preserves the landscape. The cellar also keeps the wines naturally cooler. He added, “We practice biodiversity and sustainability.”  Calogero Riportella Photo credit: Penny Weiss Calogero explained that this is the driest and hottest part of Sicily. The Mediterranean and Ionian sea come together and create a light breeze, which is very important for the vineyards. In addition, the soil has a great capacity for water retention, which is essential due to minimal rainfall of two to three times a year. With very white limey soils, it is the ideal terroir for Nero d’Avola and Moscato Bianco. Patricia said, “This is one of the most exciting areas for me, for the soil is comparable to Champagne.” All slideshow photo credits, Penny Weiss, except where noted. Patricia led us through a wine tasting of Buonivini wines, including wines from their other estates, accompanied by a delicious dinner. Santa Cecilia Noto, DOC is their top-of-the-line wine featuring 100% Nero d’Avola. Beautiful and complex. Floral notes with dark juicy fruit, spice, balsamic, and nice acidity. Controdanza Noto DOC is 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Merlot grown in white soils. Dark berries, earthy, baking spice, cherry, and vibrant acidity. Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. It is a dry, crisp, and deliciously aromatic wine with jasmine, citrus, and notes of minerality and the sea. Passito di Noto Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. An explosion of flavor with this “antique” wine. Floral, citrus fruit, apricot, honey, dried fruit, and tropical notes all come together in this complex and elegant wine. All slideshow photo credits Penny Weiss Planeta wines can be found in the USA and abroad. Feudo Maccari Antonio Moretti Cuseri, owner of Tenuta Sette Ponti in Tuscany, visited the Val di Noto in the late 1990s and fell in love with the area. He was smitten by Sicily’s famous Baroque style and the sea’s warm waters. He was so taken that he began a new project and created one of the most exciting viticulture businesses in the area. He has put together 250 hectares of property along the cliffs and beaches of this southernmost area of land in Noto, purchasing pieces of land from various owners, little by little. Maccari is the center of it all; it is here that the vineyards overlook the natural oasis of Vendicari (a nature reserve.) Antonio Moretti Cuseri has focused on native grape varieties like Nero d’Avola, Grillo, and Moscato di Noto, as well as international grapes like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing a fruity elegance and rich minerality to each wine. The first bottle produced at the estate was a 2000 Nero d’Avola. The proximity to the sea and the limestone-rich soil make this area perfect for quality winemaking, giving the grapes unique characteristics. The vineyards overlook the Ionian Sea and the natural oasis of Vendìcari and benefit from constant ventilation, which keeps the grape bunches healthy, so they are never stressed from the excessive heat. Only organic farming is practiced; they head-train all their vines to protect the grapes from the hot sun. The wood for aging is eclectic. Barriques are from France, and tonne and chestnut barrels are from Tuscany. The only white grape they work with is Grillo, and there are several interesting interpretations, such as Volé Mosso Bianco, fermented in small stainless steel vats that are temperature controlled and then left to slowly re-ferment at low temperatures. It is bottled with a slight residue of natural carbon dioxide and aged in bottle for three months. Family And Friends Grillo goes through temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration, partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for about 20 days and then aged partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for at least six months and another in bottle for six months. They are exciting wines to drink! As you can see from the photos below, we tasted a lot of wine. Feudo Maccari’s red wines are impressive, from Neré, a light and fresh Nero d’Avola aged in stainless steel to, Saia, a Nero d’Avola aged in small oak barrels for 12-14 months that is round and elegant. In addition, they produce noteworthy Syrahs such as Mahâris with rich fruit and minerality. After the tasting, my palate was singing! Slideshow photos credit: Penny Weiss Tenute Zisola The Mazzei family is no stranger to fine winemaking; their wine history dates back to the 11th century. For the past 24 generations, the Mazzei family has been producing wines at Castello di Fonterutoli in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. I had the pleasure of tasting these wines last year with Giovanni Mazzei, who represents the 25th generation.  Tenute Zisola Photo courtesy of Zisola. The Mazzei family made their debut in Sicily in 2003 when they established Tenute Zisola. It is a “stone’s throw” from Noto, where they own 52 hectares of land that surrounds three traditional farmhouses called bagli. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss In addition to 22 hectares of grape vines, they cultivate olives, citrus fruits, and almonds. They are in the process of converting to organic production, which should be completed and certified by 2023. Dario Pennino, the export manager, said, “We specialize in viticulture. When the grape harvest is done, we tend to the orchards. What is important is the connection with terroir.” Nero d’Avola is the principal grape grown here, but they also produce small quantities of Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grillo, and Catarratto. Like many other wineries in the southeast, the sea breezes from the nearby coast keep the vineyards cool from severe heat. The soils are calcareous, medium textured, and rich in gravel which contribute to minerality, freshness, and elegance in the wines. They have a small but efficient winery with vinification in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and approximately 350 oak barrels in which the wines are aged. We sampled wine while gazing out over a stunning vista. It was a small hike to get there, but well worth it. Francesco Loi, a 24-year-old enologist who guided us through the tasting, told me he began making wine at 14. The 2021 harvest is his first one with Zisola. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss Zisola produces five wines, four reds, and one white. Their objective in making wine is to “approach it with sensitivity and respect.” One of our hosts said, “It takes time to make good wine. We don’t make coca cola.” Azisa Sicillia DOC 2021 is 100% Grillo. It is aromatic, dry, and fresh, with floral, citrus, white stone fruit, and pleasant minerality. Doppiozeta Noto Rosso DOC 2017 This is Zisola’s hallmark wine made with 100% Nero d’Avola from three unique plots. It was aged in new/used tonne for 16 months. Lush red fruit, cherry, spice, and a hint of mint with nice length with a 20+ year aging potential Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2019 100% Nero d’Avola aged in barrels for ten months. Cherry, red berries, herbal notes with acidity coming through. It is light and fresh. Achilles Syrah Sicilia DOC 2017 This 100% Syrah is aged 15 to 16 months in small French oak barrels. Dark cherry, earthy, smokey notes, and a nice balance of acidity and tannins. Effe Emme Tere Siciliane IGT 2016 is 100% Petit Verdot and is aged for 16 months in small french oak barrels. An intense wine that is very earthy with dark fruit, cherry, blackberry, spice, and a hint of dark chocolate. We continued to taste wine while enjoying a delicious lunch that Zisola prepared. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss The wines I tasted on my tour of the southeast paired beautifully with all the local cuisine and specialty dishes. These versatile and expressive wines reflect the terroir, dedication, and love of this unique area of Sicily. They are a treat for the palate and soul. And I understand now the lure that beckons wine producers to come here.
I always say, “There is nothing better than pouring a part of Sicily into a wine glass.” Of course, I highly recommend taking a first-hand tour of this magical island! Until next time, Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com There are many styles of sparkling wine on the market, one of which is Frizzante. By definition “Frizzante” is a term used for semi-sparkling or slightly effervescent wine. This style of wine is made using the Charmat method. In the simplest of explanations, the wine undergoes secondary fermentation in stainless steel pressurized tanks, trapping the CO2 inside which makes the bubbles. Recently, I received three bottles of Mosketto Frizzante wine that are made with Moscato and Brachetto grapes.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Moscato Bianco is a white, aromatic varietal indigenous to Italy and is widely planted throughout the country, but particularly in the Piedmont region. Due to its good acidity, this grape is suitable for sparkling wines. Moscato is known for its sweet flavors such as orange blossom, peaches, honeysuckle, lemon and light alcohol content.  Moscato Bianco grapes. Photo courtesy of Moscato d'Asti. Brachetto grapes, which are indigenous to Piedmont, are purplish-blue with firm-fleshed berries that are full and dense and characterized by their high sugar content and powerful aromas. These aromas are provided by the terpenes found in the grape skins. The main terpene in Brachetto is called geraniol, which is associated with the scent of roses. The wines tend to be pleasantly sweet, fruity, light-bodied, low in alcohol and have soft tannins.  Photo courtesy of Consortium Brachetto d'Acqui MGM Mondo del Vino, founded in 1991 is the producer of the Mosketto brand. In 2005, they sold a large proportion of their shares to their management team, and in 2013, the company became part of the Mondodelvi S.p.A. group. The grapes for these wines are sourced from vineyards located on a hilly ridge that stretches from Acqui terme to Santo Stefano Belbo at an altitude between 250 and 400 meters above sea level. The soils range from light limestone marl to strong sandy components with differing microclimates, all of which contribute to the expressions of these native aromatic varieties. Mosketto Frizzante Bianco Made with Moscato grapes, this wine has aromas of floral, peaches and lemon. This is a sweet wine with notes of honeysuckle, pear, melon and orange blossom and nice acidity. Although this is a touch too sweet for my palate, it would be quite refreshing in a cocktail. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $12  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Mosketto Frizzante Rosato This is a blend of Moscato and Brachetto grapes and is moderately sweet. A lovely bouquet of jasmine, white peach and honeysuckle segue onto the palate with cherry, raspberry and a hint of pineapple. Alcohol: 5.5% SRP: $12  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Mosketto Frizzante Rosso This wine is made with Brachetto. Floral aromas blend with notes of red berries that segue onto the palate with raspberry, strawberry and rose petals. This is a refreshing wine that is moderately sweet. Alcohol: 5.5% SRP: $12  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Enjoy these light-bodied, low-alcohol, and easy-sipping wines with desserts, spicy cuisine, and cheese or as a mixer in cocktails. For more information on these grapes, please click on the menu at right.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com As you may have gleaned by now, I am a fan of sparkling wine. Whether it’s toasting a special occasion or sitting home by the fire with a book, a glass of bubbly always lifts my spirits and is a welcome treat. Not long ago I visited the Piedmont region located in northwestern Italy. The focus of my trip was to re-acquaint my taste buds with the sparkling wines as well as the still wines of Asti. The Consortium of Asti and Moscato d’Asti, DOCG was our guide on this illuminating exploration. The Moscato Bianco grape (Moscato is the Italian word for Muscat) is making a big comeback in the USA and abroad and taking its rightful place once again among the many styles of sparkling wine available on the market. And I’m here to dispel the myth that it is just a sweet wine that should only be served at the dessert table. These are highly aromatic, light, refreshing, low alcohol wines that are fun to drink, but they are also very expressive, leaving one’s palate quite satisfied.  Moscato Bianco grapes. Photo courtesy of Moscato d'Asti. Although Moscato Bianco is grown in every Italian region, it is mainly associated with Piedmont where it is believed to have its origins dating back to the 13th century as documented in the statues of the village of Canelli, a subzone in the province of Asti.  Many historic wineries are located in Canelli that include Gancia, Coppo and Contratta. In fact, it was Carlo Gancia who in 1865 created Spumante Italiano, making it the birthplace of Asti Spumante. (Spumante means ‘sparkling wine’ in Italian.) Canelli and Santo Stefano Belbo were the most important production centers and from these towns, Moscato Bianco vines were shipped worldwide. The “Consorzio per la Tutela dell’ASTI’ (Consortium for the Protection of Asti wines) was formed in 1932 to protect, develop and promote Asti DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG in Italy and worldwide.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Asti DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG are produced in 52 communes within Piedmont. Moscato Bianco vineyards span an area of about 9,800 hectares divided among 3,700 wineries and producers.  Asti landscape. Photo courtesy of Moscato d'Asti Part of the focus of the Consortium is quality control and protection against counterfeit wine. They have an impressive research lab that “promotes and coordinates specific scientific studies and innovative technologies to continuously improve the production process as a whole”. As we toured the lab we were told that due to climate change and the weather getting warmer each year they are working in the lab to find ways to compensate and adapt the vines to climate change. In addition to all this, 15 samples are taken from each vineyard to determine when grapes should be harvested. Harvest time is crucial as the sugar, acidity and aromatic components must be in perfect balance and harmony before grapes are picked. Once this is established the grapes must be handpicked immediately. With the end of World War ll, Asti Spumante became very popular in the United States as soldiers returned home with these light, sweet wines. However, with its popularity came the demand for more wine. And so bulk production ensued and quality went downhill. An abundance of poorly made Asti Spumante was exported and subsequently got a bad reputation as a low-quality sweet wine. Moscato Asti received DOCG status in 1993 and the word “Spumante” was eliminated, although you might still see “Asti Spumante” on many wine labels. Today, Asti wines are refined, not cloyingly sweet and they retain the classic aromas and flavors of the Moscato Bianco grape that include floral, a profusion of fruit such as fresh grapes, mandarin orange, peach, apricot, Meyer lemon and musk. Wine producers are more careful with production and as Luigi Coppo of Coppo Winery said, “It is time to take Moscato Bianco seriously as wine. Our objective is to transfer the aromatics of the grape to the bottle. It is known as a dessert wine, but it is made as a sparkling wine.” Canelli became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2014 and is noted for its surrounding historic vineyards and intricate subterranean wine cellars called “Underground Cathedrals”. These cellars weave in and out of Canelli for about 20 miles. I had the opportunity to visit the historical wine cellars at Coppo Winery, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site and part of the Underground Cathedrals. Luigi Coppo explained, “In parts of this tunnel there are over 42 meters of dirt above us. The tunnels are ideal for storing wine because it is stable in here with constant and perfect temperature and humidity. This all-natural tunnel was built in the late 18th century with an addition in 1920 that took only one week to build”! Below is a slideshow of the Underground Cathedrals. Photo credit: Penny Weiss The Moscato Bianca grapevines are planted on hills at an average of 200 to 300 meters above sea level with some elevations that are more than 500 meters. Ancient chalky soils, microclimates and sun exposure adds character to these terroir-driven wines. The three types of DOCG Moscato wines produced are Asti Dolce DOCG, Asti Secco DOCG and Moscato D’Asti DOCG. Asti Dolce DOCG received DOCG recognition in 1993. The grape variety must be 100% Moscato Bianco with a maximum yield of 100 quintals (10 tons) of grapes per hectare. The average alcohol content is usually between 7% and 9%. This sparkling wine is a harmonious balance of sweet and acidity with classic aromas and flavors of grapes, acacia blossom, orange, honey, spice and fine and persistent foam. Asti Secco DOCG received DOCG recognition in 2017. It is the “dry” version of Asti Dolce but still retains all the classic characteristics of the grape. The grape variety must be 100% Moscato Bianco with a maximum yield of 100 quintals (10 tons) of grapes per hectare. The average alcohol content is allowed up to 11%. Typical aromas and flavors are fruity with apple, pear, lavender, sage and acacia along with fine and persistent foam. Moscato d’Asti received DOCG recognition in 1993. The grape variety must be 100% Moscato Bianco with a maximum yield of 100 quintals (10 tons) of grapes per hectare. Unlike the full sparkling Asti wines, Moscato d’Asti can be made still or less effervescent with a hint of frizzante (fizz) and is therefore not considered a sparkling wine. It has lower alcohol content and can be no more than 5.5% alcohol by law. These wines are delicate, lightly sweet and have intense musky aromas with characteristic flavors of floral, peach, apricot, sage, lemon and orange blossom. Here are just a few of the memorable wines that I tasted. Matteo Soria Bric Prima Bella Asti DOCG Extra Dry 2017 has a beautiful perlage that is fine and persistent. Fragrant aromas of floral, acacia and a hint of citrus segue onto the palate with a dry and aromatic finish. This is a perfect sparkling wine to serve with appetizers and main course.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti Canelli DOCG 2019 is a light, sweet wine with floral and stone fruit aromas. It is fresh with floral and peach on the palate. Serve with an assortment of cheese and desserts. Alcohol: 4.81%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Cascina Cerutti Surì Sandrinet Moscato d’Asti DOCG Canelli This is a delightfully fragrant wine with notes of flowers, peach and citrus. The palate offers a light effervescent mouthfeel with fresh grapes, floral and a hint of sage. This is a great wine to pair with cheese, appetizers and fruit. Alcohol: 4.83%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Acquesi Asti DOCG This is a good example of an Asti Dolce wine. It is very aromatic with a palate of fresh fruit, white flowers, peaches, lemon zest and a hint of honeydew melon. It offers persistent and creamy bubbles with a lively and easy finish. Use your imagination in pairing this wine with food! Alcohol: 7%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss I tasted a multitude of wines while in Asti and I was impressed not only by the quality and flavor, but these are also food-friendly wines that will pair beautifully with a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts as well as enjoying as an aperitif. Don’t let the sweetness scare you! Be adventurous! Also, these sparkling wines are great to make cocktails with. While visiting Martini and Rossi Winery, I was served a refreshing cocktail made with Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur topped off with their Asti sparkling wine. Perfection!  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Still to come are the Brachetto D’Acqui DOCG wines, Franciacorta DOCG wines and Custoza DOCG wines. I will also be focusing on a few of the winemakers Stay tuned!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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