A short time ago, through Zoom, I, and several other writers spent a fascinating hour with James Marshall Lockyer, winemaker at Tenuta Licinia, and 3rd generation of this family-owned winery. Tenuta Licinia is a small winery at the foothills of the Tuscan Apennines near the village of Lucignano in the province of Arezzo. Today, the property has 60 hectares of woods, 6.5 hectares of vineyards, and 3 hectares of olive groves. In the early 1970s, James’s grandfather, Jacques de Liedekerke, who lived in Belgium, bought the property with an abandoned farmhouse and small vineyard. Jacque took on the restoration of the farmhouse, but as James said, “For the first 20-30 years, my grandfather really didn’t do much with the vineyard. He enjoyed wine but was not knowledgeable in winemaking. He grew up with old-school ideas of winemaking and didn’t understand Tuscan soil, geology, or what made a vineyard good or bad.” Over the years, Jacque learned more about the vineyard and subsoils and thought it might be worth replanting. So, in 2006, Jacques decided to replant the Sasso Di Fata vineyard as a retirement project. Because he was French-Belgium, and drank Cabernet Sauvignon, he decided to plant it. It took many years of tests, research, and many attempts, but by 2019, the wines began to assume the vineyard’s identity. In 2020, James arrived at Tenuta Licinia and took over what his grandfather had begun. James explained, “At the time, I was finishing my doctorate at Oxford University, focusing on foundations of ethics and sensorial value. About winemaking, James said, “I am semi-self-taught and guided by very good mentors and professionals. In addition, I did a few internships.” His doctoral studies proved to be helpful as a winemaker. “It motivated me to think carefully about what kind of wine I want to make, what truly matters in the wine I make, and what types of properties are relevant to making a high-quality wine.” What his grandfather had planted, half of the vineyard was decent, and the other half was great. For James, this introduced one of the many puzzles they’ve worked on for the last several years: understanding Tuscan subsoils. James said, “One of the difficulties with Tuscan subsoil is that it changes very quickly, every 30 -40 meters. As part of their project, they focus on identifying small and abandoned parcels and bring them back to high-quality production. “We are developing Sangiovese on the parcels we now find.” Regarding his grandfather’s planting in 2006, on one side of the hill is Sasso Di Fata, and on the other side of the hill is the Montepolli vineyard. James divided the vineyard based on the subsoils. James said that Sasso Di Fata has much more beautiful subsoil than Montepolli. James stated, “Sassa Di Fata subsoil is lime-slate, and the slate is paper thin. Slate is viable and roots can go right through it very quickly. This soil contributes to a much more beautiful grain of tannins, sophisticated aromas, and floral direction. Slate can give a savory/saline finality to the wine.' The Montepolli subsoil is a clay-limestone plot with a Merlot base. It is too “clayish” with certain defects. The tannins can be quite wide and massive, and the aromas and minerals can be quite reduced on this soil type.” James went on to say, “I have an old-school subsoil view, that subsoil is very central to making great wines. It’s the physical structure underground that is key. In addition to the soil, it is the drainage and temperature underground combined with root penetration, which is important.” We tasted three Tenuta Licinia wines. All the grapes are picked by taste, not by analysis, for the best maturity. In addition, the winery has been certified organic since the vines were planted, and they follow a biodynamic program in the vineyard. Sasso Di Fata IGT Toscana Rosso 2019 This wine is produced in the clos style, with the grapes sourced from a small vineyard with a specific subsoil, and therefore, the wine is only produced in extremely small quantities. The 2019 Sasso di Fata is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) Cabernet Franc (25%) and Petit Verdot (5%). It is aged 16 months in second passage French oak Tonneau (500L). Nose: Fragrant rose petals, red berries, and spice. Palate: Beautifully balanced with red fruit, spice, licorice, and a hint of mint. Gentle tannins and a dance of saline and minerality lead to a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% Montepolli IGT Toscana Rosso 2019 This wine is produced in the clos style, with the grapes coming from a small vineyard with a specific clay-limestone subsoil, and therefore, the wine is only produced in small quantities. This is the first vintage. The wine is a blend of 47% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot. It is aged 15 months in second passage French oak Tonneau. James did the aging and blending for this wine. Nose: Strawberry, cherry, anise, floral, and a touch of balsamic. Palate: Strawberry segues onto the palate with soft cherry notes, herbs, baking spice, and minerality lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 14.5% Sasso Di Fata IGT Toscana Rosso 2021 This wine was bottled just a few months ago and a treat to sample. The 2021 is James’s first vintage, and it’s a winner! It is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Aging was approximately ten months in second passage French oak Tonneau (500L.) Like the other wines, this is also produced in the clos style, with the grapes sourced from a small vineyard with a specific subsoil. Nose: Floral with emphasis on rose petals, red fruit, plum, and spice. It is a darker color than the 2019.
Palate: It is lush with fruit and spice and a true expression of the vineyard. There is a beautiful balance between minerality, salinity, and tannins. Alcohol: 14.5% Pairing suggestions: All three wines are well-suited to meat dishes, game, porcini or truffle risotto, seared tuna, and hearty stews. A final note from James: “Our approach to winemaking is to really value the aromatic purity, beauty, and mineral expression, as much as the textural side.” Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Happy New Year! Are you ready to embrace 2024? I certainly am! I have lots to share with you over the next few months, which includes more insights on my trip to Mt. Etna and Alentejo, a Bulgarian dream tour, and lots of wine from around the world! With the season’s first significant snowstorm in progress, I decided to sample a few red wines to entertain my palate while the snow piles up outside. So, let’s start toasting the New Year with these tasty treats from Italy, Portugal, and Chile. Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 Masciarelli Tenute Agricole is a family-owned winery founded in 1981. Led by mother-daughter team Marina Cvetić and Miriam Lee Masciarelli, the winery is the only one in Abruzzo to own land in all four provinces ((Chieti, Pescara, Teranio, and L’Aquila.) They have 350 hectares of estate-owned vineyards and are committed to sustainability in the vineyards and the winery. Masciarelli has 22 labels and seven product lines. This wine is 100% Montepulciano, hand-harvested from nine specific vineyards. It is aged in stainless steel tanks and then bottled without fining or filtration. Nose: Violets, cherry, berries, and spice. Palate: Juicy bing cherries, red berries, spice, and a hint of herbs. It is nicely balanced and good value for the price! Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Pizza, pasta, grilled meat, or charcuterie board. Dos Lusíadas Pinteivera Tinto Douro Valley DOP 2018 Michel Chapoutier is an iconic winemaker and wine merchant known for his organic wines in the Rhone Valley, France. In 2009, he picked out a small, three-hectare plot in the Douro Valley, Portugal. His motivation was to produce wine from the indigenous and most praised grape variety, Touriga Nacional. He and local growers collaborated, resulting in the creation of Pinteivera. This 100% Touriga Nacional is hand-harvested at maturity, and the wine is aged in 100% French oak barrels for 12 months, with a percentage that goes to new barrels varying from year to year. “Dos luisiadas is named after the famous poem, Os Lusíadas, written by Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camões. This epic work tells the tale of the Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama’s travels to India.” Nose: Violets, berries, and spice, with a touch of cherry and herbs. Palate: Lovely notes of dark fruit, plum, dark cherry, wisps of minerality, and notes of dark berries and dark chocolate lingering on a long finish. Beautiful depth and character. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $38 Pairing suggestion: Hearty stews, braised brisket, seared tuna, chili, or grilled octopus. Viña Maquis Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Viña Maquis is located in the heart of the Colchagua Valley in Chile between the Tinguiririca River and the Chimbarongo Creek. Both waterways act as conduits for cool coastal breezes that moderate the warm summers and have a pronounced effect on lowering the temperatures during the hot season. The winemakers said, “This has an impact on the characteristics of the grapes and the wines by increasing the fresh fruit and floral aromas, making the wines more vibrant on the palate and moderating the alcohol levels.” The Hurtado family has owned the estate since 1916, but its roots date back to the 1800s. They own 218 hectares of vineyards in the DO Colchagua Valley. The grapes for this wine are 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Carmenere, and 1% Petit Verdot. The grapes are all sourced and hand-picked from a vineyard in the Palmilla DO. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Nose: Red berries, plum, herbs, baking spice, and bing cherries. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with an emphasis on cherry and hints of minerality. The tannins are mild, and the wine has good structure and balance. The finish is long and heavenly. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $20 Pairing suggestions: Barbecue fare, stews, cheese plate, portobello burger, or seared tuna. Montes Wings Carménère 2020 Montes Winery is based in the Colchagua Valley, Chile, with its vineyards spread throughout the country. It was established in 1987 by original partners Aurelio Montes and Douglas Murray. In 1988, Alfredo Vidaurre and Pedro Grand joined the partnership. These visionaries created a company recognized worldwide today, with their wines exported to over a hundred countries. Wings was created from a long-running dispute between Aurelio Monte Sr. and his son, Aurelio Jr. His son wanted to produce a “more free-flowing style of Carménère.” The result is Wings. It is 85% Carménère and 15% Cabernet Franc. Grapes for this wine are sourced and hand-picked from their Finca de Apalta estate in the Colchagua Valley. The wine was aged in new French oak barrels (80%) and second- and third-use barrels (20%) for 16 months before bottling. Nose: Dark berries, cherry, pepper, baking spice, tobacco, and a hint of fig.
Palate: Lush dark fruit with spice and a touch of dark chocolate lingering on a long finish. Beautifully structured and complex. It will only get better with age! Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $55 Pairing suggestions: Aged cheese platter, roasted/grilled meat, mushroom stew, lamb chops, or vegetable risotto. Fun fact: Chile has the most Carménère under vine in the world, at 10,332 ha/25,530 acres in 2021. By comparison, France has just 80 ha/197 acres. DNA analyses carried out in New Zealand in 2006 showed that several vines planted as Cabernet Franc are, in fact, Carménère. It is also present in Veneto, Italy, plus a few vineyards in China. I wish everyone a healthy, happy, and peaceful New Year! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com If you haven’t tasted Lugana wines yet, you are in for a treat! Lugana is a small DOC located in northern Italy, south of Lake Garda. In addition to being one of Italy’s oldest protected wine-growing areas, it is also one of the few Italian wine regions spread over two provinces, Verona and Brescia. Lake Garda is one of the northernmost Mediterranean climates in Italy despite its location at the foothills of the Alps, and it is Italy’s largest lake. The lake basin was shaped by glaciers from 600,000 years ago, which left behind a significant accumulation of material, the morainic hills, deposited in the large amphitheater of Lake Garda. The lake water is colder than the air in summer and warmer in winter, which significantly impacts the temperature, lessening the hot summers and harsh winters here, and is beneficial to the vineyards. The Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC said, “The area is characterized by very particular soil, made up predominantly of white clays and limestone, and capable of giving the grapes cultivated here extraordinary elegance and tanginess.” The Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC was established in 1967 and was the first to be given this status in Lombardy. Their mission is to supervise, defend, and promote, with particular emphasis on protecting and highlighting the qualities of the denomination and its wine. Turbiana is the region’s signature white grape. It is a versatile grape used to make dry, off-dry, sweet, and sparkling wines ranging from light to complex. Because the grape is salty and high in acid, it gives way to wines with delightful freshness, crisp acidity, pleasant salinity, and minerality, with floral notes, white stone fruit, tropical fruit, citrus, and almond. Lugana region produces five distinct styles of wine made from Turbiana, with DOC designation. The styles are Village-level Lugana, Superiore, Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest), and Spumante (sparkling). The DOC stipulates that Turbiana must make up at least 90% of the wine. Here are two Lugana DOC wines that will please your palate. Tenuta Roveglia Limne Lugana DOC 2022
This wine is 100% Turbiana. Grapes are hand-picked from 25 to 35-year-old vines. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, and the wine then ages four to five months in the tanks. Nose: Floral, citrus, green apples, and almonds Palate: A dry and refreshing wine with citrus, minerality, fresh acidity, and hints of orchard fruit. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Aperitif, appetizers, seafood, grilled white meat, salads, or light pasta. Tommasi Le Fornaci Lugana DOC 2022 This is 100% Turbiana. Grapes are obtained from clay soil, giving body and structure, and sandy soil imparting aroma and elegance. The grapes undergo a slow fermentation followed by aging in stainless steel tanks. Nose: Sweet floral notes, orchard fruit, minerality, and citrus. Palate: Floral, tropical fruit, pear, citrus, and minerality. It is fresh and lively with a hint of almond lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Pairing suggestions: Appetizers, cheese, seafood, mushroom risotto, BBQ, or spicy Asian cuisine. Lugana wines are fun to sip year-round. They are easy to pair with most cuisine or enjoy as an aperitif! Until next time… Cheers! Penina This is a sponsored article written for The Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC for which I received compensation. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Several months ago, I was invited to a virtual tasting of Famiglia Cecchi Wines led by their oenologist, Miria Bracali. It was a memorable sampling of wines representing a few of Cecchi’s estates in Chianti and Maremma, located in Tuscany. In 1893, Luigi Cecchi founded the company in a small Tuscan village. It has since been passed on from one generation to the next, and today is led by brothers Cesare and Andrea, the fourth generation of the family. The Estates Today In addition to the Cecchi estate, the family owns and oversees five other wine estates, four in Tuscany and one in Umbria. The family’s first purchase was Villa Cerna in the early 1960s, located in Castellina in Chianti. Today there are 80 hectares of established vineyards surrounding the renovated winery. In 1996, the family purchased 25 hectares in the burgeoning wine area of Maremma. After constructing an elegant winery, they named it Val delle Rose. Located in the Municipality of Grosseto, the estate today comprises 105 hectares of mainly Sangiovese proprietary vineyards used to produce Morellino di Scansano DOCG. By the end of the 1990s, the family began to look beyond their Tuscan borders and invested in the wine area of Montefalco in Umbria. They purchased Tenuta Alzatura, 26 hectares of vineyards across three parcels, dedicated to the enhancement of native vine varieties and the production of the region’s namesake label, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG. In 2015, the Villa Rosa estate in Castellina was added to their winemaking estate portfolio. Villa Rosa is comprised of 30 hectares of vineyards that give rise to a traditional and elegant Chianti Classico DOCG. The last acquisition was made in 2018 when the family purchased 6 hectares of vineyards in Montalcino. The estate is called Tenuta di Montalcino. Throughout all the estates, sustainable winemaking is ongoing and vital to the Cecchi family, and they “consider protecting the environment a duty for those who work in the agricultural field. Territories are to be considered a heritage that must be defended and respected.” Here are four of the eight wines sampled from the estates of Valle delle Rose, Villa Cerna, and Cecchi. Val delle Rose Cobalto Maremma Toscana DOC 2020 The soil in Maremma has more acid, along with sand and rocks, resulting in more sapidity in the wines. This wine is 100% Vermentino. Fifty percent of fermentation takes place in oak, 34% in amphora, and 16% in stainless steel tanks. It is aged ten months with a minimum of six months in bottle. Nose: Sweet, herbal, minerality, and a hint of tropical fruit. Palate: Dry and fresh, with pear, white stone fruit, vibrant acidity, sapidity, minerality, and toasted oak. A complex and delightful wine with notes of the sea lingering on the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $45-50 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with fish, seafood, mushroom risotto, or grilled chicken. Val della Rose Poggio al Leone Morello di Scansano Riserva DOCG, 2019 This wine is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Corvina. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine is aged for a minimum of 12 months in barriques. Nose: Floral, red, ripe fruit, earth, and spices. Palate: Plum, cherry, minerality, smooth tannins, baking spice, and cocoa with a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $35 Pairing suggestions: roasted or grilled meat and game, stews, risotto, or vegetable pizza. Cecchi Chianti Classico “Storia di Famiglia”, DOCG, 2020 This is Cecchi’s first Chianti Classico wine and most distributed. It is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Corvina. The wine is aged for a minimum of two months in bottle. Nose: Floral, red fruit, spice Palate: Fresh red fruit with nice acidity, cherry notes, cranberry, medium tannins, good balance, and a juicy finish. Alcohol: 13.55 SRP: $20 Pairing suggestions: Game, grilled tuna, pasta with sautéed greens, or chicken. Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018 Produced only in the best vintage years, this wine is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Corvina. 2018 was an excellent year for Sangiovese. The grapes are sourced from vineyards used only for Riserva wines. This wine is aged 14 months in barriques and small barrels, with a minimum of nine months in bottle. Nose: Floral aromas with red fruit, cedar, espresso beans, and spice.
Palate: Nice balance of freshness and acidity, with ripe red fruit, cherry, berries, baking spice, mineral notes, and a long finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $35 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, aged cheese, chicken parmesan, or pasta. If you’ve never tried Cecchi wines, then now is the time to indulge your palate with these Tuscan gems. They are reasonably priced and available almost everywhere. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It is a rare occasion that I write about importers of wine and spirits. My focus is usually on the wine or spirits producer. However, I make exceptions now and then, especially when seduced by my love for Italian wine! So, I’m giving a shout-out to Votto Vines. And, since the three Italian wine samples I received were very palate-pleasing and all under $30, what’s not to write about? Votto Vines is a family-owned and operated business founded in 2009 and headquartered in Connecticut. Michael P Votto is the CEO and co-founder of this dynamic business, focusing on importing, marketing, and distributing fine wines produced by leading vineyards worldwide. It all began when Mike Votto took a vacation to Tuscany. After falling in love with a small winery that lacked distribution in the US, he saw a business opportunity. So he pitched the idea of starting an importing company to his family. Today, Votto Vines has 30+ employees in five states and nationwide distribution capabilities. Here are three wines that represent Mike’s love for Italy and mine! Nestore Bosco Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2018 Nestore Bosco is a family-run business in the province of Pescara, in Abruzzo. Founded in 1897 by Giovanni Bosco, it is led today by Nestore and Stefanio, with the fifth generation ready to step in. The company has been certified organic since 2018 and practices sustainability. This wine is 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and aged for several months in Slavonian oak barrels. Nose: Floral, dark cherry, red berries, a hint of plum, spice, and herbs. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with a smooth and well-balanced finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $13 Pairing suggestions: Charcuterie board, aged cheese, pasta, roasted meat, or risotto. Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente V11 Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 Established in 1965 by Sir Armando Nunzi, Castelli del Grevepesa is a modern- day cooperative that started with 17 winegrowers and now has over 120 associate winegrowers. Their objective is to produce high-quality wines that comply with the strict regulations of the law and Consorzio del Chianti Classico, and focus on sustainability. This 100% Sangiovese is hand harvested from the Chianti Classic zone. 85% is aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months, and 15% in barriques for 12 months. It remains in bottle for three months. Nose: Fragrant red and dark berries, plum, and baking spice aromas. Palate: Dark cherry, berries, spice, vanilla, a hint of anise with subtle acidity, soft tannins, and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Pairing suggestions: Roasted red meat, game, hearty stews, or pasta. Torrevento Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte Riserva DOCG 2016 With a family history that goes back to 1913, Torrevento was established by the Liantonio family in 1989 and is located in the provinces of Bari and Barletta-Andria-Trani in the Puglia region. They manage over 500 hectares of vineyards with an eye on sustainability, research, and quality. Nero di Troia is an indigenous grape to Puglia, and Torrevento was the first winery in the world to make a 100% Nero di Troia in 1992. The grapes for this wine are sourced from vines over 30 years old. It is aged in large barrels for 12 months Nose: Lovely aromas of cherry, raspberry, herbs, earth, and spice.
Palate: Aromas spill onto the palate with a touch of plum, berries, silky tannins, and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $28 Pairing suggestions: Roasted or grilled meat, game, and white meat. Hearty soups, stews, aged cheese, or pizza. Enjoy the sip! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com A few months ago, I was invited to participate in a virtual tasting of six Bardolino Cru wines presented by the Consorzio Di Tutela Chiaretto e Bardolino and led by Angelo Peretti, Director. Below is a brief outline of our meeting and some interesting facts! The Bardolino wine region is located in the province of Verona in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy, bordering the eastern shores of Lake Garda. In 1825, three areas within the Bardolino winemaking region were identified and recognized by international grape merchants for their production of fine and elegant wines. These crus (subzones) are La Rocca, Montebaldo, and Sommacampagna. In 1968 Bardolino wines were given DOC title, but the three crus were not included. It wasn’t until 2015 that the Bardolino Cru project was initiated, and in 2018 the Consorzio asked the Italian government to recognize the crus. Finally, on April 12, 2021. the wines from all three crus were officially produced with DOC title and new regulations approved by the Italian government. The name of the cru has to be written in large font above the name Bardolino on every bottle due to each cru being a subzone with its own specific regulations. Bardolino wines are made with Corvina and a small percentage of Rondinella, both indigenous red grapes of the Verona province. About 25% of the wineries are organic, which is about 18% of the vineyards, with many of the wineries converting to biodynamics. Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy and is one of the northernmost Mediterranean climates in Italy despite its location at the foothills of the Alps. The lake water is colder than the air in summer and warmer in winter, which significantly impacts the temperature, lessening the hot summers and harsh winters here. The lake basin was shaped by glaciers from 600,000 years ago, which left behind large deposits of material, the morainic hills, deposited in the large amphitheater of Lake Garda. Bardolino region is situated on the eastern shore of this morainic amphitheater. Due to the many deposits left by the glaciers, there are 66 different soil types that the zoning project has identified. Here are three wines to tempt your palate, one from each cru. La Rocca La Rocca is named for the hill overlooking Lake Garda. It is the closest district to the shores of the lake. Wines from this cru typically have a complex bouquet that usually includes raspberry and cinnamon. Giovanna Tantini La Rocca Bardolino DOC 2020 This wine is made with Corvina and a small amount of Rondinella. The grapes are handpicked and sourced from vineyards with morainal, gravelly, calcareous, and alluvial soils. Each grape variety is vinified separately, then blended and aged, 80% in stainless steel for 15 months and 20% in 5 hectolitre tonneau for one year. It remains in bottle for three months. The color is bright ruby with notes of fresh berries, cherry, sweet spice, and nice acidity, and it is smooth and balanced. Serve with meat, risotto, fish, light stews, or cheese. Montebaldo The name for this cru is derived from the mountain of the same name. It is the northernmost and highest point, with higher altitudes and a cooler climate. Wines from this cru typically have aromas of strawberries and cloves. Vigneti Villanella Montebaldo Bardolino DOC Morlongo 2020 The grapes for this wine are Corvina, Rondinella, and Corvinone. They are sourced from vineyards in the south-facing morainic hills in the hinterland of the lake. The soil is clay mixed with limestone. The blend is aged in large oak casks and then time in the bottle before release. The wine is bright ruby with a hint of garnet. Lovely aromas of fresh fruit with notes of strawberry and baking spice segue onto the palate. Hints of black pepper, balsamic, and strawberry linger on the finish. Serve with pasta, risotto, grilled chicken, fish, or appetizers. Sommacampagna This cru is in the southeastern hills and is the most southern cru and the warmest. Wines lean toward notes of cherry and black pepper. Monte Del Frà Sommacampagna Bardolino DOC Bonomo 2020 The grape varieties for this wine are Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, sourced from vineyards with original morainic and calcareous soils. The wine is aged in wooden barrels used for the third time. The wine is cherry red with red berries, cherry, sweet spice, and black pepper on the nose. The palate is fresh and lively, with berries, cherry, spice, and a hint of tea and herbs. It is smooth and balanced with a long finish. Enjoy this wine with appetizers, pasta, grilled meat, poultry, tapas, or seared tuna.
While on a press trip a few years ago, I visited three wineries in Custoza DOC, Bardolino’s neighbor. (first map) Part of the tour included Monte Del Frà, owned by the Bonomo family, and where their winery headquarters are located. Sommacampagna is one of 11 territories that the Bonomo family owns throughout Verona. The tasting lineup that day included the above wine. If you want more information about Monte Del Frà, please click on the link below to read my article. thewineknitter.com/1/post/2020/01/custoza-doc-wines-worth-knowing.html The Bardolino Cru wines are elegant, expressive, light, and very food friendly. Wines from this region are worth trying. Presently, approximately 20 wineries export to the USA. I can’t wait to explore this region, visit wineries, and taste more wines! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com There is a saying that it takes a village to raise a child. And, at Il Conte Villa Prandone, it takes a determined family to produce noteworthy wines. Spanning three generations, the De Angelis family has dedicated themselves to making wine since the 1950s. Today, third generation Emmanuel (winemaker), Walter and Samuel (vineyard managers), and Marina ( office management) continue their grandfather and father’s philosophy and tradition. Each generation’s love of the land and passion for work in the vineyards and cellar are evident. Emmanuel De Angelis said, “Our philosophy is very simple. We want to preserve, protect, and respect our land. There are three elements; history, the identity of the territory, and style.” What began with their grandfather planting seven hectares has now grown to 50 hectares under vine. The winery is situated in the province of Ascoli Piceno, near the enchanting medieval village of Monteprandone in the beautiful Marche region of central Italy. The vineyards here benefit from the gentle breezes of the Adriatic Sea to the east and the mild currents of the Sibillini Mountains to the west. In addition to the beneficial microclimate, night and day temperature variations help to keep the grapes healthy. The medium-textured clay-limestone soil contributes to aromas and unique flavors. And the terroir is a perfect haven for giving the wines good structure and alcohol content. Most of the wine produced at Il Conte Villa Prandone comes from indigenous grapes, but they also grow a few international varieties. Sustainability and biodiversity are practiced in all of their vineyards. Recently, Il Conte Villa Prandone sent me six wines to try while participating in a fun zoom session with Emmanuel and Mara Bastiani De Angelis, the export manager. These wines are an elegant expression of the land and the family’s passion. Navicchio Offida Pecorino DOCG 2021 This 100% Pecorino is their only white wine that is vinified and aged in concrete tanks and amphoras. Emmanuel calls it “our diamond. It is a white wine in a red body.” He also said that it has a shelf life of 10+ years. Nose: Floral, spice, citrus, and a hint of yeast. Palate: Lovely acidity, citrus, lots of spice with lemon zest on the finish. Vibrant, fresh, and complex. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with seafood, poultry, salads, and mushroom risotto. Donello Marche Sangiovese IGP 2020 This wine is 100% Sangiovese. After fermentation, the wine is preserved in cement tanks before bottling. Mara said, “It is our best-selling wine.” It is intended to be consumed within eight to ten years of the vintage. Nose: Floral, spice, berries Palate: Fresh with cherry, red berries, a hint of violet, spice, and herbs. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $14-15 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, mature cheese, hearty stews, or game. Marinus Rosso Piceno Superiore DOP 2017 This is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese grapes. It is aged for one year in oak barrels. Emmanuel called it “an intense wine.” Nose: Cherry, berries, baking spice, fennel, and a hint of espresso. Palate: Sweet and savory with dark berries, spice, and smooth tannins. Cherry and spice linger on the finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $20 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, seared tuna, hearty pasta, or stews. Zipolo Marche Rosso IGP 2018 This wine is an international blend and is produced in extremely limited quantities. The first bottle was produced in 1999. It is a selection of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Merlot grapes. The wine is aged 16-24 months in oak barrels and another 12 months in bottle. Emmanuel suggests giving it time to open up, perhaps an hour before serving. Nose: Intense aromas of plum, dark berries, baking spice, and toast. Palate: Concentrated flavors of blackberry, plum, baking spice, and vanilla. Velvety tannins, complex, and well structured. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Pairing suggestions: Roasts, stews, hearty soups, vegetable risotto, and mature cheese. Lu Kont Marche Rosso IGP 2018 This wine is 100% Montepulciano sourced from single vineyards with 50-year-old vines. It is aged in oak barrels for 12 months, then another 12 months in concrete tanks. It rests for at least six months in the bottle before release. Emmanuel suggests opening one hour before serving. Nose: Fragrant and fruity with berries, baking spice, and herbs.
Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with pomegranate, cherry, anise, and minerality. It is savory, complex, and elegant. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $30 Pairing suggestions: Roasts, game, poultry, hearty stews, pasta, mushroom risotto. IX Prandone Marche Rosso IGP 2017 The label is a dedication to the town founded in the ninth century. The wine is 100% Merlot that is produced in very limited quantities. It is fermented in concrete tanks for 25-30 days and then aged in oak barrels, concrete tanks, and amphoras for 30 months. It then rests in bottle for one year. Nose: Violet, ripe red fruit, plum, berries, baking spice, and earthy. Palate: Juicy with good structure, cherry, blackberry, spice, and a hint of cocoa. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $80 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, spicy cuisine, roasted/caramelized vegetables, or charcuterie. I encourage you to explore these wines, and, better yet, put Marche on your bucket list of places to visit and sip a glass of wine surrounded by beauty! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Three years ago, Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo invited me to attend an educational seminar in New York City to learn about the Abruzzo wine region of Italy. Not only was I introduced to some stunning wines indigenous to this region, but I also had the opportunity to meet with several new-generation wine producers. This new generation echoed a recurring theme that day on the importance of “balancing tradition while introducing new innovations.” The Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo was established in 2002 to monitor, defend, protect, and safeguard the controlled designations of origin and maintain the quality of production. Its 400 members are grape growers, winemakers, and bottlers. A few weeks ago, Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo invited me to experience the wonders of Abruzzo firsthand. And although I learned so much during the seminar in NYC, nothing can compare to the magic of physically standing at the edge of the Adriatic Sea with the breathtaking backdrop of the Apennine Mountains, walking through vineyards, partaking in the local cuisine and culture, and touring historic villages with imposing abbeys and castles. On this trip, the ever-present mantra of the new generation of winemakers I met continued, “balancing tradition while introducing new innovations.” Their enthusiasm, along with love and respect for the land, and determination to produce high-quality wines are commanding, and it shows in the wines that I sampled. A movement toward experimenting in the vineyards to find ways to combat climate change, along with a growth in certified organic farming, sustainability, and infusing new technology with traditional methods, is the new norm here. And the older generations are embracing these new paths forged to showcase the terroir and produce unique and more complex wines. For those who may have missed my original article from a few years ago, here is an introduction to Abruzzo. Abruzzo is situated in central Italy between the Adriatic Sea and Gran Sasso d’Italia (one of the highest peaks in Italy, standing at 9,554 ft.) and Majella Massif, both part of the Apennine Mountains. For centuries, the inhabitants of Abruzzo have referred to the Majella Massif as a sacred mountain. Abruzzo winemaking dates back to the fourth century BC when the Etruscans introduced viniculture to the area. However, winemaking took a dip in production for several centuries, and it is only in the last 50 years that it has been on an upswing. Bulk wine once dominated the scene, but with a recent turnover of the newer generations, Abruzzo is producing more quality-driven wines. The Abruzzo wine region is divided into four provinces with sub-zones. Overall, there are approximately 6,000 grape producers, 35 wine cooperatives, and over 250 wineries, with the majority of wine production taking place in Chieti province, where more than 83% of Abruzzo wine growing is located. Two geographical areas make up Abruzzo, the inland mountainous area that covers 65% of the entire region and the long coastal area with sweeping hills. Climate and geography play an important role in wine’s outcome, and the stage is set for the terroir of Abruzzo. A moderate coastal climate exists in the area along the Adriatic-facing side of the Apennines and is more continental inland. The vineyards benefit from the high altitude that provides significant diurnal temperature variations and good ventilation that cools the vineyards, while the Adriatic contributes a coastal breeze. Primary soils are clay-rich interspersed with limestone and sandy with marine deposits found along the coastline. Calcareous soils, marls, and rock are inland. There are an impressive 36,000 hectares of vineyards in the Abruzzo region, with the majority of vineyards planted on hills. Abruzzo produces approximately 3.5 million hectoliters of wine each year! And more than one million of these wines are Controlled Designation of Origin. (DOC) of which approximately 80% are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. In fact, 58% of all vineyards are planted to Montepulciano, with 17,000 hectares under vine. As of 2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane is the only D.O.C.G made in Abruzzo with a minimum of 90% Montepulciano. Notable indigenous varieties and wines are below with a “generalized” description. Red Grape Montepulciano d’Abruzzo This is Abruzzo’s star red grape. The wines tend to be rich, complex, and medium-bodied, with typical flavors of red fruit, plum, dark berries, and herbs. It is a versatile grape that can be produced as a simple, fresh un-oaked wine or aged in casks for a more dense and complex wine. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo A deep cherry-colored wine considered the rosé of Abruzzo. Made with Montepulciano grapes, the color is obtained from a short maceration of 24 hours or less. The wine leans toward intense red fruit flavors with racy acidity and palate-pleasing freshness. White Grapes Trebbiano This is Abruzzo’s star white grape. Trebbiano tends to be light and fresh with tropical fruit, citrus flavors, lively acidity, and a trace of almond on the finish. Pecorino Not to be confused with cheese, this grape produces a dry, fresh wine with tropical or citrus fruit, minerality, bracing acidity, herbal notes, and a beautiful floral bouquet. Cococciola These grapes were traditionally used for blending but are now produced on their own as well. The wines tend to have floral and citrus aromas, with the palate offering fruit-forward and herbal notes. It is dry, fresh, and has vibrant acidity. Passerina This is another fresh and vibrant wine with distinct notes of apricot, white stone fruit, herbs, and floral. In addition to still wines, many wineries are producing sparkling wines from the above grapes, which tend to be vibrant, fresh, and aromatic. What I love about these wines is their versatility when paired with all types of food. Our first night in the province of Chieti in Abruzzo we dined on local cuisine at Trabocca Punta Cavalluccia. Up and down the southern coastline, especially in Chieti, there are pilings called trabocci. These fishing platforms extend out to the sea and were first designed in the 18th century to allow fishermen to harpoon and catch fish with nets without needing to use a boat. A long gangplank leads to a covered structure firmly anchored into the sea bed with stilts. It may look fragile, but it isn’t! Today, a few of these trabocci have been restored, renovated, and turned into fabulous restaurants, and Trabocca Punta Cavalluccia is among the well-known. It is open dining out on the Adriatic Sea! We enjoyed a six-course meal, savoring the local bounty from the sea while treating our palates to Abruzzo wines. Below are just a few examples of our dinner. The variety of local food is as varied as the landscape of Abruzzo. As we drove away from the sea toward the mountains, we were treated to different styles of food. And the wines were palate-pleasing every step of the way. This is the first of several articles on Abruzzo. In future articles, we will visit a few wineries and quaint villages and delve into the hidden gem of Villamagna, DOC. I encourage you to try Abruzzo wines and sip with me as we explore Abruzzo together! Your palate will thank me! Until next time… Cheers! Penina This article was originally published to Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Read my latest story for Santé Magazine. Click the link below. https://santemagazine.com/the-magic-of-donnafugata/ Until next time... Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com
For me, there is nothing like pouring a glass of wine that not only sates my palate but can also conjure up sweet memories. And this quote from Coppo says it perfectly. “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste. This doesn’t have anything to do with its aromas or flavors, but of a sensation that awakens memories of pleasant times.” Piero Coppo founded Coppo winery in 1892 and it is one of the oldest family-run wineries in Italy spanning four generations. Piero’s philosophy was about making quality wine, not quantity. His sense of ethics, attention to detail, perfection, passion for the land and his vision for the future have been passed on from one generation to the next. Below is a photo of the four brothers representing the third generation with fourth-generation Luigi in the middle. This historic winery is located in the famous commune of Canelli, a subzone in the province of Asti in the Piedmonte region of Italy. Canelli is noted for its important role in history for being the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine made with Moscato Bianco grapes. Canelli became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2014 and it is famous for its surrounding historic vineyards and intricate subterranean wine cellars called “Underground Cathedrals”. These cellars weave in and out of Canelli for about 20 miles. Part of these historical wine cellars are located at Coppo Winery and are a UNESCO World Heritage site. While visiting Coppo a few months ago, fourth-generation Luigi Coppo gave us a tour of these impressive cellars. He said, “In parts of this tunnel there are over 42 meters of dirt above us. The tunnels are ideal for storing wine because it is stable in here with constant and perfect temperature and humidity. This all-natural tunnel was built in the late 18th century with an addition in 1920 that took only one week to build”! Below is a slideshow of the Underground Cathedrals. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Coppo built their business producing sparkling wines, but by the beginning of the 20th century, their production expanded to making classic Piedmontese reds, most notably, Barbera. Piero’s son, Luigi (second generation) entered the business in the late 1940s and was responsible for restoring and modernizing the winery. He also brought with him a passion for French wine. During the 60s and 70s, the winery began importing wines from Burgundy and Champagne. Luigi’s four sons (third-generation) entered the family business between the 70s and 80s). Inspired by the great French wines that their father imported, the four brothers infused their personal style in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines and Chardonnay. Coppo is one of the first producers in the area to make Chardonnay, although Chardonnay and Pinot Nero have been growing in the hills around Canelli since the early 1800s. Monteriolo Chardonnay is dedicated to their father Luigi and the first vintage was introduced in 1984. Here is a bottle shot of the 2017 Monteriolo Chardonnay that I tasted while at the winery. It was exquisite! Unlike many other wineries, the third generation made it their mission to maintain the quality of Barbera over quantity and ensure that its elegant character was preserved. This brought about a change for stricter management in the vineyards, lower yields, hand harvesting and introducing barriques during maturation, making Coppo at the cutting edge of Barbera’s rebirth. These changes helped to give the wines more complexity and richness. The 1984 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso was the first harvest, becoming the symbol of the winery. The fourth-generation, cousins Max and Luigi, are focusing on “a new style of communication”, called the Internet! By engaging the younger generation of wine lovers while blending “a lighter side of wine” with traditional values they hope to introduce their palates to affordable and quality wine. Today, the major part of Coppo production is focused on Barbera, Metodo Classico sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Moscato d’Asti. Coppo also makes classic DOCG Piedmontese wines such as Gavi and Barolo. It is interesting to note that due to the winery’s historical importance, they have been granted permission to make Barolo outside of its zone of production. The Coppo estate covers over 52 hectares of vineyards with the heart of productive vineyards in Monferrato in Southern Piedmont. Here is where Moscato Bianco and Pinot Nero are grown. Barbera grapes are grown in Agliano Terme and Castelnuovo Calcea located in the heart of the subzone, Nizza. Coppo also manages the estate La Rocca situated in Monterotondi di Gavi, where the Cortese grapes are grown. As stated by Coppo, “Since 2001, Coppo winery has followed an official protocol for integrated agriculture that sustains farming practices with low environmental impact. The winery goes above and beyond the regulations, and for several years now has decided to follow agricultural methods in the spirit of organic and biodynamic agriculture, while not being officially certified.” I asked Luigi how climate change might be affecting vineyards and production. His reply, “Climate change exists and of course, it is impacting our vineyards and production. What we are experiencing in the last years is an anticipated ripeness of our grapes, which means an anticipated harvest. It does not mean this is worse or better but we have to follow nature. We are experiencing higher temperatures now and that means higher alcohol. But please consider alcohol is not a problem if the wine is well balanced. For some specific varieties such as Barbera, we cannot control or decide what is the right amount of alcohol because we have to manage the acidity and so we have to pick the grape when the grape is ripe. We can pick grapes earlier but it won’t work out well.” I asked Luigi what the biggest challenge Coppo might be facing in the vineyards. He responded, “There is not a specific challenge. According to my father and uncles stories back in the day, the harvest season was more or less predictable. Today it is different and we have to “react” quickly. Every day is different and every harvest (thank god) is different too.” Upon my return home from visiting the Coppo estate, I received six bottles of their wines. The wines transported me back to Canelli “awakening memories of a special time.” These wines are all gems and worthy of review. Coppo Moncalvina Moscato D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli. It is a light, sweet wine with floral and stone fruit aromas that transcend to the palate. It has a natural light fizziness and is very refreshing. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $15 Coppo Costebianche Chardonnay 2017 This is 100% Chardonnay that is harvested from Piemonte DOC appellation. 20% of the must is fermented and aged on fine lees in French oak barrels of 2nd and 3rd-year use. This is a delightfully fresh and fragrant wine with notes of floral, stone fruit, apple and a hint of lemon. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Coppo La Rocca Gavi DOCG 2018 Gavi is a classic white Piedmontese wine made with 100% Cortese grapes. Cortese is one of the region’s oldest native grapes. The Tenuta La Rocca vineyard has marly calcareous soils that contribute to the wine’s mineral complexity. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach and pineapple lead to a palate of minerality, grapefruit, green apple, honeysuckle and a nice balance of fresh acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $20 Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Barbera. Wonderful aromas of juicy red berries and spice tickle the nose with a palate full of lively acidity, cherry, berries, pomegranate, spice and a hint of nutmeg. Raspberry and spice linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $17 Coppo Camp Du Rouss Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2016 I love the story that goes with the name of this wine. “Camp del rosso” in Italian means “the redhead’s field”. ‘Camp’ in Piedmontese means vineyard. The first owner of this vineyard was a redheaded man who was so burly, he frightened the children. However, the wine is far from frightening! It is 100% Barbera that has been aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Intense aromas of red fruit and spice lead to a palate of sour cherry, red berries, cranberry, spice and a hint of dark chocolate. This is a well-structured wine that lingers on the palate and begs for another sip. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Coppo Pomorosso Barbera D’Asti Nizza DOCG 2016 This wine is the most prestigious Barbera produced by Coppo. Its fame is owed to the significant part it played in the rebirth of this variety. With the release of the 2016 vintage, the wine bottle bears the new Nizza DOCG designation. This took years of collaboration to elevate the status of this vine growing region. The Coppo family along with other prominent Barbera d’Asti producers was involved in this effort and is now proud to represent this new designation. Grapes are sourced from 50 to 60-year-old vines in the Nizza DOCG appellation. The wines are aged from 14 to 18 months in French oak. This is a beautiful wine with nicely integrated tannins and acidity. Intoxicating aromas of red fruit, dark cherry, floral and baking spice segue onto the palate with dark plum, dark berries and a touch of sour cherry, pomegranate and herbs. I tasted the 2017 vintage while visiting Coppo and was reminded of how expressive this wine is. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $55 Every wine bottle is adorned with the symbol of a cherub. While visiting Coppo I photographed the statue, which sits on a shelf in their tasting room. I asked Luigi what its significance is. Luigi said, “This is a gift given from a sculptor to my great grandfather at the very beginning of the 20th century. It is a little angel (Cupido) trying to stop the fermentation of a bottle of sparkling wine (gran spumante). It became the logo and mascot of the winery.” Of course, I was secretly hoping that the cherub was trying to capture the aromas and essence of the sparkling wine! Although I couldn’t capture it on camera, the family motto is engraved at the cherub’s feet. “Robur et salus” (strength and health). Tasting all of these wines again was a treat for my palate. And it was wonderful to be briefly transported back to Piedmonte. Coppo definitely got it right when they said, “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste.” They certainly do! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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