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My love affair with Sicily continues with a potpourri of delectable wines from Sicilia DOC that are sure to please the palate. Each bottle of wine is expressive of Sicily’s typical Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and landscapes of which approximately 61% is hilly, 24% is mountainous, and 15% makes up the flatter areas near the coast.  Settesoli Vineyard Photo credit: Penny Weiss As of 2020, within Sicilia DOC, there are 23,521 hectares under vine, 498 wineries, and 7,863 vine growers. With over 70 indigenous Italian grape varieties planted throughout Sicily, 31 of these varieties are planted within Sicilia DOC along with international varieties.  These six wines are produced from upland (hilly) vineyards and demonstrate the uniqueness of these elevated plateaus. The defining factors are soil, topography, and altitude, with a focus on sustainability, and many wineries that are certified organic.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Credit: Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna Helios Grillo 830m. 2020 Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna is a family-run winery founded in 2004 by 5th-generation winegrowers Klaus and Gunther Di Giovanna. The family has five vineyards located between the provinces of Palermo and Agrigento in western Sicily, and the winery is situated on a natural preserve. The grapes for this 100% Grillo are sourced from a mountainside single vineyard at 830 meters above sea level in Fiuminello, Sambuca di Sicilia. The soil is composed of limestone and ancient marine sediment that imparts a vibrant mineral finish to the wine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and French tonneaux. 90% of the wine is aged on the lees in steel for nine months, and 10% is aged in tonneaux. This wine is certified organic. Nose: Intense aromas of white flowers, citrus, and pineapple Palate: Lovely texture, rich fruit, savory and complex with vibrant acidity and minerality. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28.95 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Principi Di Butera Carizza Insolia 2020 Sicilia DOC Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located 10 kilometers from the sea and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Insolia is grown on the hillside vineyards of Butera with soil that is rich in clay. The climate is warm and dry, optimizing the development and perfect ripening of the grapes. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged six months on the lees. Carizza is the Sicilian word for “caress.” Nose: Floral, exotic and white stone fruit Palate: Rich in flavor with aromas segueing onto the palate and a hint of almond on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $16.99 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with cheese, fish, and white meat. Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2018 Sicilia DOC Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily with 32 hectares on Mt. Etna, of which 28 hectares of vines are in production. The vineyards are located on four different slopes, varying in altitude. This wine is 90% Carricante, and 10% Riesling and the grapes are sourced from the Sciaranuova vineyard with volcanic soil that is rich in minerals and black with lava sands. The altitude is between 820-860 meters above sea level. Patricia Tóth, the winemaker, noted, “The Carricante is more compact and sharp at the higher elevation.” The wine is fermented in stainless steel and remains on fine lees for five months. Nose: Floral, citrus, and white stone fruit. Palate: Rich fruit flavors, tropical notes, honeydew, with a boost of minerality, and lemon zest on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $42.99 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with fish, shellfish, and salads. Mandrarossa Cartagho 2017 Sicilia DOC Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli located in Menfi, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily, and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand that emerged in 1999. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards in Menfi at 150 meters above sea level in limestone and sandy soils. The wine is aged one year in barrique and another four months in the bottle. Nose: Rich aromas of dark berries, cherry, and a hint of spice Palate: Blackberries, ripe cherry, spice, with a touch of plum, dates, and dark chocolate. Soft, ripe tannins and subtle minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $26.49 Pairings: Aged cheese, braised beef, seared tuna, or game. Donnafugatta Sherazade 2019 Sicilia DOC The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. Sherazade is 100% Nero d’Avola, and the grapes are sourced from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate and nearby vineyards, located in the southwestern part of Sicily. The vineyards’ altitude ranges from 200 to 400 meters above sea level. Clay loam soils are rich in nutrients and contribute to the wines’ expression. This wine is aged for about four months in tanks and then a minimum of three months in the bottle. Nose: Violets, cherry, plum, balsamic, and spice. Palate: Fresh and lively with juicy red fruit, berries, plum, cherry, spice, and well-balanced tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 Pairings: Serve with mature cheese, pasta and red sauce, seared tuna, calamari, or pizza. Assuli Orlando Nero d’Avola 2018 Sicilia DOC The Caruso family owns Baglio Assuli, with the third generation now leading the company, and they are dedicated to producing high-quality 100% organic wines. Assuli is located in Mazara del Vallo in northwestern Sicily, with over 120 hectares of land. The vineyards are primarily located in the municipality of Mazara del Vallo. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards at an altitude of 100-150 meters above sea level. Soil composition is a medium texture with stones and pebbles and is rich with minerals. The wine is aged three to four months in stainless steel and then in bottle for three to four months. Nose: Floral, red fruit, dark plum, and earth. Palate: Dark cherry, plum, blackberry, anise, and a hint of spice. Good balance and long finish. Alcohol: 13.55 SRP: $20.99 Pairings: Medium-aged cheese, roasted or grilled meat, stews, or paella. Exploring the wines of Sicily is an ongoing pleasure. There is so much to discover, and you can be assured that I will be back with more wines to taste and wineries to tell you about! Until next time...
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Patricia Tóth was born and raised in Hungary, but when it comes to making wines, she is pure Sicilian! Patricia is head winemaker at Planeta, where she specializes in wines from the volcanic terroir of Etna.  Patricia Tóth Photo credit: Penny Weiss I had the pleasure of meeting Patricia at a Winemaker’s Luncheon a few weeks ago to discuss and taste the wines of Etna. Patricia is quite engaging and her enthusiasm and passion for winemaking are contagious. Patricia told us that she always wanted to be a veterinarian, but fortunately for wine enthusiasts, her love of science took her down another path. She said, “I applied my interest in microbiology and decided to study Food Sciences at the university.” Patricia earned a degree in Food Engineering with a specialty in Procedures of the Fermentation Industry (wine and spirit fermentation) from the Corvinus University of Budapest in 2004. After graduation, she traveled between Italy and Hungary working as a winemaker for wineries in Hungary, Friuli and Piemonte. Her first connection with Planeta was during the 2005 harvest. She officially joined Planeta’s winemaking team full time in 2009. Patricia has been living on Etna for the past six years where in her spare time she cares for her own four-acre vineyard, growing only white varieties such as Furmint and Riesling. However, as head winemaker at Planeta, Patricia’s days are quite full, not allowing much time for idle hours. She is in charge of production and startup for the organization of the new estates on Mount Etna and Capo Milazzo. Patricia is also responsible for the Buonivini and Dorilli Cellars and all the sustainable farming projects. Impressive, right? Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. As seen on the map below, Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily. The first vines were planted at Ulmo in 1985 and by 2015 they established their 6th winery, La Baronia at Capo Milazzo.  Map courtesy of Planeta Mount Etna is located on the northeastern corner of Sicily. Planeta has 32 hectares here of which 28 hectares of vines are in production. The vineyards are located on 4 different slopes, each with a different altitude. The volcanic soil is rich in stones and minerals but can vary in quantity, dimension and soil depth on the different terraces. Patricia said, “Etna is a map of eruptions as pertains to soil and grapes.” As one ascends the mountain the volcanic soil tends to get richer and darker from the lava flow. Temperatures vary from one area of the volcano to another, with Alpine conditions at the top and typical Mediterranean climate descending the mountain. An active volcano that provides black volcanic soil along with cool climate growing conditions and plenty of sunshine makes Etna an ideal location for making crisp white and racy red wines.  Etna Vineyards Photo credit: Planeta I asked Patricia if living and working on an active volcano was worrisome. Patricia said, “We are happier when there are small eruptions as opposed to being silent. If it were silent then the pressure would start to build and that is not good.”  Photo credit: USA Today Planeta planted their first vineyard on Etna in 2008, located on the north side. The first grapes they planted were Nerello and Carricante vines. We tasted through seven wines during a six-course meal of Japanese cuisine. All the wines paired beautifully with the meal.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Brut Metodo Classico Sicilia DOC NV is made with 100% Carricante, handpicked from their highest vineyard, Sciaranuova at 850 meters above sea level. Lovely floral and citrus aromas segue to a delicate palate of subtle fruit, citrus, green apple and stone fruit. This is a dry wine with a creamy mouthfeel. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $39.99  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Etna Bianco DOC 2017 is 100% Carricante handpicked from the Montelaguardia vineyard at 690 -720 meters above sea level. Aromas of white flowers, citrus, and stone fruit give way to a juicy palate of stone fruit, yellow plum and a nice expression of acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $30.99 Eruzione 1614 Carricante Sicilia DOC 2016 is 90% Carricante and 10% Riesling. The grapes are sourced from the Sciaranuova vineyard. Patricia noted, “The Carricante is more compact and sharp at the higher elevation.” Aromas of stone fruit, citrus, honeydew and tropical notes segue onto the palate with a boost of minerality and lemon zest. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $42.99  White wine line up. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Etna Rossa DOC 2017 is 100% Nerello Mascalese. The grapes are harvested from Pietramarina vineyard at 510 meters above sea level. Cherry, strawberry and a hint of baking spice envelope the nose while the palate offers red fruit, raspberry and pomegranate. Hints of pepper dance with floral notes on the finish. This wine is smooth and well structured. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $30.99 Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese Sicilia DOC 2016 is a blend of 91% Nerello Mascalese and 9% Nerello Cappuccio. The grapes are sourced from three vineyard locations representing different altitudes. This wine has a lovely bouquet of red fruit, cherry, herbs and roses. The palate offers ripe fruit, spice, floral and hints of vanilla and pepper on the finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $42.99  Etna Rossa and Eruzione 1614 Photo credit: Penny Weiss Nocera Sicilia DOC 2017 is 100% Nocera. The grapes are handpicked from La Baronia vineyard at an altitude of 30 meters above sea level. La Baronia is on Capo Milazzo in the province of Messina, which is surrounded by the sea. This is a marine red wine with engaging aromas of red berries, juicy cherries, plum and floral. The palate offers lush fruit, a hint of herbs, smooth tannins and a dash of salinity on the finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $30.99 Mamertino DOC 2016 is a blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Nocera. The grapes are handpicked from La Baronia vineyard. Aromas of dark cherry, red fruit and sweet spice are followed by a rich expression of dark and red fruit, cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, espresso, spice and lively tannins enveloping the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $35.99  Nocera and Mamertino wines Photo credit: Penny Weiss All of the above wines are of good quality and express the uniqueness of Etna and its dark volcanic soils. They are definitely worth exploring!
When asked how the local winemakers are receiving the “influx” of bigger wineries making a home on Etna, Patricia replied, “The local winemakers need our expertise and connections. We need their experience with the land. We impart this to one another.” And in turn, Planeta and Patricia are providing us with an opportunity to enjoy their delicious wines! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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