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There was a time when “oaky” Chardonnay ruled and made my palate sing as I savored the rich, buttery, and vanilla nuances the oak imparted. And then unoaked Chardonnay started to trend, and I found myself enjoying these lighter, refreshing wines that were fermented and aged in steel tanks, allowing flavors such as apple, citrus, pear, and minerality to shine through. However, I still enjoy oaked Chardonnay as long as the oak doesn’t dominate. About 20 months ago, I was introduced to and wrote about Ron Rubin and River Road wines. They recently sent me three styles of Chardonnay, but before I dive into them, here is a recap of the winery’s history and terroir.  Photo courtesy of Ron Rubin Winery With a degree in viticulture and enology at UC Davis obtained in the early 70s, Ron Rubin fulfilled a 40-year dream, and in 2011 purchased River Road Family Vineyards and Winery.  Ron Rubin Photo courtesy of winery. The winery is located in the Green Valley AVA, a subzone of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, and sits in the mid-slope “sweet spot” of the Green Valley.  Green Valley – Russian River AVA Although Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma, it is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. Its trademark is the fog and Goldbridge soil. The fog that originates at the Petaluma Wind Gap in the coastal mountains defines Green Valley. Due to Green Valley’s proximity to the gap, this is the first place that the fog rolls in and the last place to burn off. Because of this, Green Valley encounters cooler morning temperatures for a longer period, more so than the northern parts of the Russian River. Temperature shifts are subtler here, and the cool marine climate, cooler daytime readings, and long growing season allow the grapes to slowly develop character and flavor as well as retain acidity and balance of sugars. This, in turn, adds to the complexity, aromas, lower alcohol, and freshness of the wines. Goldridge soil is the most predominant type of soil here. It is 60% sand, 10% clay, and 30% silt particles that are the remains from an ancient inland sea dating back three to five million years ago. The soil consists of a top layer of fine sandy loam covering a subsoil of sandy loam and fractured sandstone. The soil provides good drainage and excellent natural chemical balance. This is a perfect growing environment for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With lead winemaker, Ed Morris, Ron produces two well-defined brands, Ron Rubin Wines and the River Road collection. River Road Collection Most of the wines in this portfolio are priced from $14-$20. The portfolio includes an extensive range of wines established by the winery’s former owners. Ron believes that good wine should be accessible, “exceptional wines at a great value.” A signature of this collection is its easy-drinking style. Ron says, “I’m a fan of low alcohol wines. I keep the alcohol in check to produce elegant wines that you can enjoy, glass after glass.”  Photo credit: Penny Weiss River Road Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2020
The grapes for all of these Chardonnays are sourced from both estate-owned and family-owned vineyards. Fermentation and aging for this wine are in 100% stainless steel tanks. This is a crisp and light wine with citrus, floral, and sweet apple notes on the nose. The palate offers refreshing notes of grapefruit, pear, melon, and green apple, along with a slightly sweet edge. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $15 River Road Reserve Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2020 What sets this un-oaked Chardonnay apart from the one above is that it is aged “Sur lie,” (which means on the lees), for four months. The objective is to produce a fuller-bodied and richer Chardonnay without oak influence. Aromas of apple, citrus, and stone fruit segue onto the palate with a creamy texture, a touch of tropical fruit, with white peach lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $17 River Road Double Oaked Chardonnay 2019 No, this wine doesn’t spend twice the time in oak barrels. A special blend of American and French oak barrels is used to age the wine. The nose exhibits apple, vanilla, and stone fruit that follow through to the palate. This full-bodied wine shows vanilla, subtle buttery notes, white peach, and baking spice on the palate. If you are a fan of oaked Chardonnay, this is one to try. Alcohol: 14.8% SRP: $17 Enjoy these wines as aperitifs or with appetizers, seafood, poultry, light pasta, or salads. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com My virtual plane recently flew me to the picturesque wine-growing region of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, CA.  Photo courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery The Russian River Valley was granted AVA status (American Viticultural Area) in 1983 and is considered a premier region for cultivating cool- climate grapes. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel are the most planted vines here. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc follow. Within the valley, many established vineyards produce distinctively different wines from each other. Gary Farrell Winery is located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. It was while working with Russian River Valley vintners in the mid-1970s that winemaker Gary Farrell developed a reputation for producing elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. In 1982 and under his own label, Gary produced his first Pinot Noir from grapes grown in the iconic Rochioli Vineyard and the adjacent Allen Vineyard. Gary and his winery became renowned for producing small-lot Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in the Russian River Valley. He identified and secured grapes from only the best sites in this AVA. Gary built the winery in 2000, with a focus on his obsession for cleanliness, attention to detail, natural process flow, small tank fermentation, and top-flight French oak cooperage.  The winery. Photo courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery. Gary sold the winery in 2004, but to this day his legacy continues with collaborative partnerships with top growers and dedication to making wines that capture the essence and unique character of each distinctive vineyard. In 2012, winemaker Theresa Heredia joined Gary Farrell Winery. Her specialty is small-lot, single vineyard wines. Theresa said, “Coming to Gary Farrell was ideal for me with 36 different vineyards to work with. My primary goal is respect for the fruit and the vineyards.” She further stated, "I strongly believe in the Russian River Valley's capacity to consistently produce world-class wines. The key is cool breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean blanket."  Winemaker, Theresa Heredia Photo courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery The Russian River Valley boasts a long, consistent growing season, allowing for a slow ripening process and good levels of acidity. In addition to the fog and cool breezes that relieve the summer heat, the 35-40 degree drop in temperature at night also contributes to the long growing season. Volcanic, sandstone and alluvial soils add to the aromas, vibrancy, intense flavor, and balance of the wines.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss With wine samples poured, Theresa walked us through a tasting of three Chardonnays and four Pinot Noirs representing seven different single vineyards.  It was a stellar lineup of the 2017 vintage. Every wine shows the uniqueness and expression of their respective vineyards. Theresa said, “Vintage and site designation is the most important in making quality wine. We use gentle pressing and the use of light to medium toasted French oak barrels for all of our wines, allowing the fruit to shine through.” Theresa uses gentle, whole-cluster pressing, which produces a much finer and less bitter wine. Chardonnays  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay This vineyard is exposed to regular fog, and is moderated by cool breezes, crisp nights, and well-drained loam, clay soils that create a perfect environment for this well-balanced Chardonnay with rich acidity and minerality. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. Lovely aromas of pear, lemon, melon, and honeysuckle spill onto the palate. Vibrant acidity, hints of baking spice, lemon curd, and toasty notes add to the dimension of this wine, with honeysuckle lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $45 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay The legendary Ritchie Vineyard sits on a northwest-facing hillside in the heart of the Russian River Valley and is regarded as one of the best Chardonnay sites in all of California. The soil profile is comprised of *Goldridge series sandy loam and volcanic ash deposits, which contributes to the wine’s intensity and expressive characteristics. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. * ”The predominant soil type of the AVA is called Goldridge—a fine sandy loam covering about 60% of the area. The soil has a dark, yellowish, fine, sandy loam surface over a subsoil of golden yellow, sandy loam and fractured sandstone. It is derived from the remains of an ancient inland sea that slowly emptied into the Pacific three to five million years ago. It is particularly valuable for high-quality wine grape production because of its excellent drainage and low soil fertility. These characteristics allow it to be initially managed from a “low vigor” situation that may be readily customized with more water and/or nutrition, which directly contributes to wine quality”. Source: Paul Anamosa, Ph.D., Soil Science & Viticulture This is a vibrant and refreshing wine with aromas of citrus, tropical notes, and floral. The palate offers fruit-driven flavors of white stone fruit, lemon, pink grapefruit, nutty notes, and bright acidity. It has so much depth and character. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $60 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay The Rochioli Vineyard is a historic site that grows both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fertile, gravely soils and warmer daytime temperatures in this vineyard contribute to the wine’s flavor and complexity. Fermentation and aging took place in 35% new French oak for nine months on its primary lees. Compared to the other Chardonnays that I tasted, this one has more citrus, fewer tropical notes, and more minerality. The palate is treated to juicy white stone fruit, lemon, white flowers, and toasted nuts. Crisp acidity and hints of baking spice add dimension to this beautifully textured wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $65 Pinot Noirs  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir
In 1964, the Bacigalupi family was among the first to plant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the area. In fact, their Chardonnay grapes became famous when they were used to make Chateau Montelena’s 1973 winning entry in the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976. The soil in this vineyard is gravelly sandy loam. Its unique climate features cool mornings and warm afternoons. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Inviting aromas of cherry, red berries, and spice are mouth-watering. Ripe, juicy fruit greets the palate with dark cherry, raspberry, herbal notes, and a touch of tobacco. Beautifully balanced, soft, and quite engaging. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $65 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is located in the Green Valley sub-appellation. The marine influence brings invigorating daytime breezes, followed by cool evening temperatures. The blend for this Pinot is a composition of many of the best blocks here, which produces fruit with deep, dark color and great structure. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. It has intoxicating aromas of floral, dark cherry, blackberry, and ripe strawberries. The palate is layered with earthy notes, dark cherry, spice, raspberry, and a hint of vanilla. This is a fresh and intense wine with soft tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $55 McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is close to the border that divides the Russian River Valley from the Petaluma Gap. This is where the fog first arrives inland from the Pacific Ocean in the morning and where it burns off last in the afternoon. The vines are planted in one to four feet of Goldridge sandy loam underlain with clay. The climate and soil produce small, but flavor-packed clusters and berries that have lots of natural acidity. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Seductive aromas and flavors abound in this complex yet light wine. Pomegranate, cranberry, strawberry, and earth fuse with hints of anise, pepper, cherry, and baking spice. Fruit and acidity meld together in this elegant and expressive wine. Alcohol: 13.3% SRP: $70 Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir This vineyard is located in an area called Laguna de Santa Rosa, which is in the heart of the Russian River Valley. The climate is influenced by the fog that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. It can cool the region down by as much as 40 degrees. High vine density planting exists here, much like that of Burgundy and the result is smaller berries and smaller clusters, which produce overall concentration and balance. This wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. Wonderful aromas of cherry, dark raspberry, blueberry, floral and herbal notes segue onto the palate. The wine is a dance of savory and sweet with firm tannins and good acidity. This is a beautifully structured Pinot Noir with deep fruit concentration. Theresa recommends decanting this wine. Alcohol: 13.2% SRP: $65 If you love Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, then you must indulge yourself in these wines. The grapes may be sourced from different vineyards, but the wines all share one thing in common, the purity of the fruit and simple elegance. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Many of us are dreaming of places we’d like to travel to but can’t right now so instead, we are navigating through websites, movies, books and food to vicariously enjoy an otherwise unattainable and hopefully, short-lived situation. I have been traveling far and wide exploring wine regions around the world, one glass at a time. Today my wine glass and I are off to sunny California to taste Ron Rubin wines. Photo courtesy of Ron Rubin Winery Ron Rubin Ron Rubin is no stranger to wine. Having grown up in the wine/spirit wholesale business that his father started in 1950 in Illinois, Ron decided to pursue a degree in viticulture and enology at UC Davis in the early 70s. Bitten by the bug of California wines, Ron started adding wines to the company portfolio. Ron recalled, “The salesmen could not understand how to sell these wines. What I learned early on was that I needed to take our team to California, visit the wineries, learn, and then come back to sell the wines. It worked.”  Ron Rubin Photo courtesy of Ron Rubin Winery It wasn’t until late 2011, that Ron fulfilled a 40-year dream and purchased River Road Family Vineyards and Winery in the Green Valley AVA, a subzone of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The winery sits in the mid-slope “sweet spot” of the Green Valley.  Green Valley – Russian River AVA Although Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma, it is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. Its trademark is the fog and Goldbridge soil. The fog that originates at the Petaluma Wind Gap in the coastal mountains defines Green Valley. Due to Green Valley’s proximity to the gap, this is the first place that the fog rolls in and the last place to burn off. Because of this, Green Valley encounters cooler morning temperatures for a longer period, more so than the northern parts of the Russian River. Temperature shifts are subtler here and the cool marine climate, cooler daytime readings and long growing season allow the grapes to slowly develop character and flavor as well as retain acidity and balance of sugars. This, in turn, adds to the complexity, aromas, lower alcohol and freshness of the wines. Goldridge soil is the most predominant type of soil here. It is 60% sand, 10% clay and 30% silt particles that are the remains from an ancient inland sea dating back three to five million years ago. The soil consists of a top layer of fine sandy loam that covers a subsoil of sandy loam and fractured sandstone. The soil provides good drainage and excellent, natural chemical balance. This is a perfect growing environment for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Goldridge soil Photo courtesy thepressdemocrat River Road Vineyards/Ron Rubin Winery The winery has nine acres of vineyards of which 6.5 acres are devoted to growing Pinot Noir and 2.5 acres are for growing Chardonnay. Ron also buys fruit from a carefully chosen handful of growers, three of whom have been selling fruit to the winery for decades. The winery is both SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified and Certified Sustainable by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.  Photo courtesy of Ron Rubin Winery With his head winemaker, Joe Freeman, Ron produces two well-defined brands, Ron Rubin Wines and the River Road collection. I received seven bottles of wine representing both brands. River Road Collection Most of the wines in this portfolio are priced from $14-$20, with the exception of a Pinot Noir priced at $30. The portfolio includes an extensive range of wines established by the winery’s former owners. Ron believes that good wine should be accessible, “exceptional wines at a great value.” A signature of this collection is its easy drinking style. Ron says, “I’m a fan of low alcohol wines. I keep the alcohol in check to produce elegant wines that you can enjoy, glass after glass.”  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay grapes are sourced from both estate-owned and family-owned vineyards. This is a fresh, light wine with nice aromas of citrus and hints of honeysuckle. A palate of green apple, grapefruit, pear and crisp acidity makes this quite refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14  Reserve Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay grapes for this wine are sourced from the Russian River Valley. The wine is aged in both oak barrel and stainless steel tanks.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Floral, pear and vanilla aromas segue onto the palate with hints of citrus, apple, peach and lemon zest on the finish. Bright acidity and a creamy mouthfeel blend well together. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $18 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are sourced from the Alexander Valley. This wine is aged for nine months in French and American oak barrels. A juicy bouquet of berries, plum and baking spice continue onto the palate with blackberry, strawberry, dark cherry and toasted oak. Fresh acidity rounds out the palate with a smooth and pleasant mouthfeel. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $25  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Pinot Noir Stephanie’s Cuvée 2017 Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from Green Valley and the wine is aged in 20% new French oak barrels.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss This wine opens with a bouquet of ripe red fruit, floral, baking spice and a touch of blueberry and raspberry. The palate offers lush blackberry, raspberry, spice, cocoa and a dollop of dark cherry and vanilla on the finish. It is a smooth blend of fresh acidity and tannins. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $30 Ron Rubin Collection These wines are mostly made with Russian River fruit made from blends of different estates that add complexity and consistency from year to year. Winemaker Joe Freeman says, “Differences in terroir are more important with Pinot Noir. For Chardonnay, it’s the clones that have more impact.” The wines carry a price tag of $14-$25.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay 2018 When Ron Rubin bought the winery, his wife Pam asked him to please make an un-oaked version of her favorite white grape, Chardonnay. Ron and Joe Freeman set to work and one year later, Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay made its debut.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The grapes for this wine were sourced from Clarksburg, Lodi and Mendocino County. This is a fresh fruit, off-dry wine with plenty of juiciness and moderately low-alcohol. Citrus, lots of pear, sweet apples and nectarine envelop the palate. It is balanced with just the right blend of alcohol, acidity and sugar. And yes, there is the slightest hint of effervescence Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 Grapes were sourced and handpicked from an intricate blend of clones in the winery’s favorite vineyards. The grapes were barrel fermented with a mix of French and American oak. After fermentation, the wine was aged for over six months in oak barrels with another six months or so in the bottle.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Pear, tart apples and baking spice greet the nose with an abundance of juicy pear, apples, honeydew and hints of minerality that entertain the palate. A creamy texture with a balance of bright acidity adds to the structure of this wine. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $20 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 This wine is made mostly from Green Valley grapes grown on the estate with some grapes acquired from a few local, family vineyards. The wine was aged in new French oak barrels.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Aromas of ripe red fruit, sweet spice, cherry, berries and a hint of herbs lead to a palate of sour cherry, cranberry, ripe red fruit, vanilla and a touch of earth. Soft tannins and crisp acidity round out this fruit-driven wine.
Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $25 All of these wines are light, food-friendly and price approachable and they are fun to drink. Pour a little California sunshine in your wine glass! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com  The rain and humidity finally disappeared last evening. So a few friends and I gathered for a sunset glass of wine and appetizers. Our host had a few bottles of perfectly chilled MacRostie Russian River Valley Chardonnay waiting for us. MacRostie Winery and Vineyards is located along the Sonoma Coast in the heart of the Russian River Valley in California. Founded in 1987 by Steve MacRostie, he and winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen are making extraordinary wines. In addition to Steve’s Wildcat Mountain Vineyard, he uses grapes farmed by some legendary winegrowers such as the Duttons, Sangiocomos and Martinellis. The winegrowing sites include more than 30 Chardonnay vineyards and over 15 Pinot Noir sites allowing for diversity and vibrancy in their wines.   The 2015 Russian River Valley Chardonnay is a blend of grapes from some of the finest vineyards, including Kent Ritchie Vineyard, Martinelli Vineyard, Mirabelle Vineyard and Charles Heintz Vineyard. The wine is very aromatic with notes of flowers, citrus, tart apple and honeydew that spill onto the palate with hints of oak and melon that linger on. This is a crisp and well-defined Chardonnay and an elegant addition to any table. SRP: $34 And now I’m off to embrace this beautiful day!
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com  After tasting and enjoying so many wonderful Bordeaux wines the other day, I was at a loss as to what wine to open for my dinner guest that evening. I still had Bordeaux on my palate, but I needn’t have worried. My guest came bearing a gift of a most welcome bottle of wine. We opened a 2005 Nickel & Nickel “Ponzo Vineyard” Russian River Valley Zinfandel. The partners of Far Niente founded Nickel & Nickel winery in 1997. Their mission was to produce 100% varietal, single vineyard wines.  Ponzo Vineyard Photo courtesy of Nickel & Nickel The Ponzo Vineyard is located adjacent to the Russian River. The first vines were planted around 1920 on flat, sandy loam soil that produces more dramatic concentrated fruit. The cork was soft and crumbly so we decanted the wine through a strainer. I was happy to note that the color was dark ruby with fruit and spice aromas. Considering the wine’s age, it had a lot of depth and character. Layers of rich fruit, spice and pepper were more present than I anticipated. The wine was silky with lingering moments of cherry and spice on the finish. It drank beautifully! The wine paired nicely with the cheese spread, but we drank it all before dinner was served! I’ll tell you about what we drank with our meal in my next post! http://www.nickelandnickel.com  Have a peaceful Sunday!
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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