Yes, we are making a quick stop to the heart of Douro Valley again to revisit Quinta do Crasto and review three delicious wines! Here is a re-cap of Quinta do Crasto from a previous article. Quinta do Crasto is a fourth-generation, family-run business that has been in the family of Leonor and Jorge Roquette for more than 100 years. It is also one of the oldest winemaking estates in the Douro region of Portugal. The earliest written records mentioning Quinta do Crasto and its wine production date back to 1615. One hundred forty years later, in 1756, the Douro became the first-ever demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. And in 2001, UNESCO sanctioned the Douro region as a World Heritage site. Quinta do Crasto is headquartered in the heart of Douro Valley, in Gouvinhas, a municipality of Sabrosa, and is one of the most picturesque parts of the Douro. With the help of Jorge and Leonor’s sons, Miguel and Tomás, and daughter, Rita, they produce top-quality Douro DOC wines, in addition to port and olive oil. Quinta do Crasto has four estates that spread across the sub-regions of the Douro Demarcated Region of northern Portugal. The Douro experiences a hot, continental climate, with each sub-region demonstrating its unique topography, soil, and water resources. Quinta do Crasto is a 335-acre estate of which 185 acres are planted to vines located in the Cima Corgo sub-region. Most of the vineyards are on south-facing slopes that extend from the banks of the Douro River to an altitude of almost 600 meters. The soils are of schist complex types that can absorb and retain heat. This, combined with dry conditions and excellent sun exposure, forces the roots to grow dozens of meters deep in search of water. All of these conditions contribute to the complexity and intensity of the wines produced. Small plots of old vines that total 98 acres are located on terraces with stone retaining walls to protect these older vines, some of which are a hundred years old. They recently expanded their vineyards to the Douro Superior sub-region with a new vineyard of 371 acres. So, let’s taste some wine! Crasto Superior Red 2016 Douro DOC The grapes for this blend are sourced from 15-year-old vines in the Douro Superior sub-region and are a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and Souzão. The wine is aged for approximately 12 months in French oak barrels. The color is royal purple with aromas of ripe berries, a hint of cherry, and baking spice. Dark berries, plum, licorice, spice, and firm tannins abound on the palate. This wine is nicely structured with a long finish. Pair with grilled steak, seared tuna, hearty stews, or a charcuterie board. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $29 Quinta Do Crasto Reserva Old Vines 2016 Douro DOC The estate has 40 hectares of old vines spread throughout 42 vineyard lots. Among them are the famous Vinha da Ponte and Vinha Marie Teresa. Dozens of mixed varieties are planted in these plots. The grapes for this wine are sourced from old vines averaging around 70 years of age, with mixed plantings of 25 to 30 different grape varieties. This wine is aged in French (85%) and American (15%) oak barrels for 18 months. This is an elegant wine with a dark ruby color. An expressive nose of berries, anise, spice, and earth give way to a layered palate of dark fruit, berries, spice, a hint of minerality, and firm tannins. The finish is long, with notes of dark berries and cocoa lingering. Serve with game, hearty stews and soups, or grilled dense fish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 Quinta Do Crasto Touriga Nacional 2016 Douro DOC The grapes for this 100% Touriga Nacional are sourced from the best Touriga Nacional plots of Quinta do Crasto estate and only bottled in the best years when the highest levels of quality and excellence are achieved. This wine ages for 18 months in French oak barrels. Touriga Nacional’s signature bouquet of violets is present in this deep purple-colored wine. Other aromas include fresh berries, spice, and oak that segue onto the palate with notes of dark chocolate and blackberries lingering on a long finish. This wine has excellent structure and smooth tannins. If allowed to age another year or so, it will develop even more complexity. However, it is ready to enjoy now. Serve with hearty cuisine.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $78 All of these wines are amazingly fresh with beautifully concentrated flavors. I used my Coravin system on all three bottles and am looking forward to opening them within the next year! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] My last story was a virtual tour of the DÃO wine region in Portugal. Since it is so close to the Douro region, I thought it might be fun to “virtually” stop by Quinta do Crasto winery and taste a few of their wines. Quinta do Crasto is a fourth-generation, family-run business that has been in the family of Leonor and Jorge Roquette for more than 100 years. It is also one of the oldest winemaking estates in the Douro region. The earliest written records mentioning Quinta do Crasto and its wine production date back to 1615. One hundred forty years later, in 1756, the Douro became the first-ever demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. And in 2001, UNESCO sanctioned the Douro region as a World Heritage site. Quinta do Crasto is headquartered in the heart of Douro Valley, in Gouvinhas, a municipality of Sabrosa. It is one of the most picturesque parts of the Douro. Constantino de Almeida bought Quinta do Crasto in the early 20th century. He was famous for his wine house dedicated to the production of port. After his passing in 1923 Constantino’s son, Fernando Moreira d’Almeida, took on the management and production of high-quality Port wine at Quinta do Crasto. In 1981, Leonor Roquette, the daughter of Fernando Moreira d’Almeida, together with her husband Jorge Roquette assumed majority ownership and management of the estate. With the help of their sons, Miguel and Tomás and daughter, Rita they renovated and extended the vineyards and began producing Douro DOC wines, which the winery is now known for both domestically and abroad. The Douro may be famous for supplying the world with its production of port wine, however, it is now being praised for its succulent and refined unfortified wines, both red and white. And, Quinta do Crasto is producing top quality wines combining a state-of-the-art wine cellar with traditional methods of winemaking. In addition to port and unfortified wines, they also produce olive oil. Quinta do Crasto has four estates spread across the sub-regions of the Douro Demarcated Region of northern Portugal. The Douro experiences a hot, continental climate with each sub-region demonstrating its own unique topography, soil and water resources. Quinta do Crasto is a 335-acre estate of which 185 acres are planted to vines located in the Cima Corgo sub-region. Most of the vineyards are on south-facing slopes that extend from the banks of the Douro River to an altitude of almost 600 meters. The soils are of schist complex types that can absorb and retain heat. This combined with dry conditions and excellent sun exposure forces the roots to grow dozens of meters deep in search of water. All of these conditions contribute to the complexity and intensity of the wines produced. Small plots of old vines that total 98 acres are located on terraces with stone retaining walls to protect these older vines, some of which are a hundred years old. Quinta do Crasto recently expanded their vineyards to the Douro Superior sub-region with a new vineyard of 371 acres. I recently received two samples of Quinta do Crasto wine from the Cima Corgo sub-region. Crasto White 2018 This wine is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato indigenous grapes. 85% of the blend was matured in stainless steel vats and 15% of the blend was fermented and aged in used French oak barrels for three months. Light lemon in color, aromas of floral, citrus and pineapple give way to a fresh and lively wine on the palate. Notes of minerality are well integrated with a creamy texture and lemon zest on the finish. Rabigato contributes to the natural acidity, Gouveio contributes citrus notes and Viosinho adds dimension and texture. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with seafood, grilled fish, white meat and light pasta. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $20 Crasto Red 2018 This wine is a blend of 35% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 25% Touriga Franca and 10% Tinta Barroca indigenous grapes. 85% of the blend was aged in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and 15% in French oak barrels for six months. Deep purple in color, this wine has a heady bouquet of fresh ripe berries, floral and baking spice. The palate offers dark berries, plum, spice, anise, a hint of pomegranate and chalky minerality. Acidity, tannins and texture are nicely balanced. Pair with grilled meat, pasta, stews and grilled tuna.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20 Both wines are well structured and exhibit freshness and balance. And, they pair well with many seasonal dishes. Pour yourself a glass of the “Douro Valley” and enjoy! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Yes, I’m writing about wines from Portugal again. Let’s face it, many great wines are being produced in this country and the price to value ratio is impressive. With fourteen diverse regional wine areas and 250 indigenous grape varieties grown here, there is a lot to offer. Esporão is a cutting edge winery with a presence throughout Portugal. I’ve tasted and reviewed their wines before but felt inspired to write a touch more about this winery after tasting a few more samples of their wines and olive oil that were sent to me recently. To read more detail about the wine regions of Portugal and past wine reviews, please click on the Categories menu at right. Esporão has approximately 700 hectares of prime agricultural areas that include wine vineyards, olive groves and other crops planted in the Alentejo and Douro wine regions of Portugal. The Herdade do Esporão estate is in the Alentejo region and Quinta dos Murças property is in the Douro region. Herdade do Esporão has 450 hectares of vineyards with 194 grape varieties planted on the estate of which 40 grape varieties are in full production. In addition to the wine vineyards, there are four types of olive trees in the 80-hectare olive groves along with orchards and kitchen gardens. All farming uses organic methods and integrated production. Quinta dos Murças is located in the heart of the Douro DOC region amid 8 diverse terroirs distinguished by different altitudes, varied schist soils and sun exposures. This estate was the first to plant vertical vineyards in the Douro region in 1947. The property has 48 hectares of wine vineyards, an olive grove, orange grove and almond trees. All agricultural production here employs organic production methods. Esporão Reserva White 2017 DOC Alentejo is considered the flagship wine of the Esporão Alentejo estate. Grapes are harvested from 18-year-old grapevines in certified organic vineyards with soil of granite/schist base and loam/clay structure. This wine is a blend of 20% Antão Vaz, 40% Arinto and 40% Roupeiro grapes. It is aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and in new American and French oak barrels. A color of golden yellow leads to aromas of floral, grapefruit, white stone fruit, vanilla and a hint of banana. The palate is layered with stone fruit, apple, pineapple, and a touch of spice, toast and minerality. This is a rich wine with a creamy texture and just the right amount of acidity. Citrus zest on a lengthy finish adds a refreshing touch. Serve as an aperitif or with light fare. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20 Esporão Colheita Red 2017 is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Arargonez grapes that were harvested from 11-year-old vines in certified organic vineyards. Vines are grown in soil of granite/schist base and loam/clay structure. This wine was aged for 6 months in tulip-shaped porous tanks that aim to preserve the wine’s character. Fresh berries, plum, spice and a hint of floral greet the nose of this vibrant ruby colored wine. This is an elegant and balanced wine that is full-bodied and rich in flavor. Cherry, plum, dark berries, spice and a touch of anise and earth grace the palate. A bit of pepper and dark plum linger on the finish. Serve with grilled meat, fowl and pasta. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $18 Quinta dos Murças Minas Red 2016 DOC Douro is a blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Tinta Francisca. The vineyards are located at altitudes between 360 ft. and 985 ft. with schist soil and vines ranging from 8 years old to 32 years old. Aging took place in concrete vats and used French oak casks for 9 months. A deep ruby color leads to intense aromas of ripe berries, floral and spice. The palate offers lush dark berries, black cherry, spice and a hint of licorice. This is another elegant wine that is fresh and balanced with firm tannins and acidity. It is rich but not overpowering and will pair nicely with an array of meat, grilled tuna steaks and hearty stews. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $20 Esporão produces six varieties of olive oil. As stated on their website, “The production of Esporão’s olive oils comes from the will to apply the knowledge obtained in the production of wines into the production of high quality olive oils. Thus, we seek that our olive oils are the expression of their land, looking forward to enhance indigenous varieties. All oils, exclusively extra virgin or virgin, are produced using natural methods and entirely traditional processes, preserving the pure juice of the harvested olives.” Esporão Organic Olival dos Arrifes Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a blend of Cobrançosa and Arbequina green olives that are harvested from the Arrifes olive grove at Herdade do Esporão. The olive grove has been certified in Biological Production Mode since 2009. I poured a little of the olive oil into a shot glass. The color is golden yellow with a slight greenish hue. This is a very aromatic and flavorful olive oil. An inviting aroma of fruit, floral and spice segued onto the palate offering vegetal, (mainly artichoke) a hint of pepper and a slightly bitter and nutty finish. Drizzle it on fresh grilled vegetables. Quite yummy!
SRP: $16/250ml As I continue to explore the myriad of wines that Portugal has to offer, I will share my findings with you. In the meantime, try a glass of Esporão wine and share your thoughts with me! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It might have been an overcast and drizzly day in Manhattan, but in the upstairs private dining room at Aldea, a Portuguese restaurant, the mood was anything but somber. A few wine writers had gathered to meet the very charismatic and engaging Domingos Soares Franco. If you don’t know his name, then you should! Domingos is co-owner and senior winemaker at José Maria da Fonseca, a historic family-run winery in Portugal. Domingos along with his brother is part of the sixth generation to run this winery and the seventh generation is now joining the ranks. Domingos holds the distinction of being the first Portuguese national to graduate with a degree in Fermentation Sciences (Viticulture and Oenology) from the University of California, Davis in 1981. As he put it, “in the 1970s there were no wine schools in Portugal or nearby, so I went to America to learn.” In addition to the knowledge he acquired from being part of one of the oldest and most prestigious wineries in Portugal, he returned from America with a newfound insight that influenced his approach to vine growing and winemaking. He combines Portuguese tradition with a dash of modern thrown in. Domingos currently works with 30 grape varieties and enjoys seeking out varieties and blends that will appeal to the consumer. With a twinkle in his eyes, he said: “It’s a secret as to how I judge if a wine will make the consumer happy.” José Maria da Fonseca was established in 1834 and is one of Portugal’s most historic wine producers. Its headquarters are in Azeitão on the Setúbal Peninsula. It is the 4th largest winery in Portugal with more than 650 hectares of vineyards containing a collection of Portugal’s top local varieties. Their vineyards are located in several wine regions around Portugal that include Douro, Vinho Verde, Alentejo, Dao and Setúbal. The Fernandes Soares Franco winery located in Azeitão is a state of the art winery that was established in 1999. The winery is entirely computerized and has a 6.5 million-liter capacity with 513 vinification tanks, including traditional presses that date back to the 20th century. The six-member winemaking team is made up of two women and four men with Domingos at the helm. Domingos admits, “I wish we had more women winemakers. Women have a much more sensitive nose”. The team works closely together engaging in research studies, experiments and innovation. Domingos is always present for the blending sessions and he still makes the blends. We began our luncheon with a special cocktail called Alambre Burbujas made with a perfect blend of Alambre Muscatel, dry Sparkling wine, honey and bitters. It was heavenly and a must serve for the summer days ahead. Here is the recipe: Alambre Burbujas 1.5oz Alambre Moscatel 1 round of orange 2 dashes Angostura bitters .5 bar spoon honey 2oz dry sparkling wine Build: Combine Alambre, honey, orange and bitters in mixing vessel, muddle lightly to express the orange into the combination Add ice and stir to chill and combine flavors Strain into wine glass Add dry sparkling wine Garnish with Orange rind We tasted through five wines over a three-course meal. The first two wines were 2017 vintages. Domingos said, “2017 was a strange season with lots of rain and heat waves, but it was our best harvest in sixty years.” José de Sousa 2017 Region: Alentejo The José de Sousa Rosado Fernandez Cellar, which was founded in 1878, was purchased by José Maria da Fonseca in 1986, fulfilling their dream to produce wine in Alentejo. In keeping with a 2000-year-old Roman tradition, an ancient fermentation method takes place in ceramic amphorae (also called Talha winemaking). The José de Sousa Cellar owns 126 of these pots. Alentejo is well known for making Talha wines and it is part of the wine culture here. For the José de Sousa 2017, a small portion of the wine is fermented in the clay amphorae followed by 9 months of resting in French and American oak casks. The remainder of wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is a blend of 58% Grand Noir, 22% Trincadeira and 20% Aragonês all harvested from the Alentejo region. The color is deep red with succulent aromas of dark fruit and spices. Concentrated flavors of rich and juicy fruit, cherry, spice, licorice, firm tannins, nice acidity and a hint of vanilla permeate the palate. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $19.99 Periquita Reserva 2017 Region: Setúbal Peninsula José Maria da Fonseca holds the prestige of being the first ever to bottle wine in Portugal. In 1850 the Periquita brand, a Castelão based dry wine was the first bottled wine released from the estate. Periquita Reserva 2017 is a blend of 56% Castelão, 22% Touriga Nacional and 22% Touriga Francesa. The wine is aged for 8 months in French and American new and used oak. Domingos explained that about 80% is new oak in order to give the wine a bit more vanilla. The color is ruby with aromas of red berries, strawberry, cherry, spice and vanilla that segue onto the palate with plum, dark cherry and hints of anise. This wine is beautifully balanced with good acidity and soft tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $14.99 Domini Plus 2015 Region: Douro Sub-Region: Douro Superior This wine is a blend of 96% Touriga Francesa and 4% Touriga Nacional. Grapes were harvested from a combination of old and new vines in vineyards that span 37 acres in Douro Superior. The wine is aged for 10 months in new French oak casks. This wine has a deep ruby color and inviting aromas of floral, dark berries, anise and hints of tobacco. The palate is layered with dense dark fruit, earth, spice and a touch of minerality. This is another easy drinking wine that has richness to it with good acidity and smooth tannins. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $44.99 This is a nice selection of easy drinking red blends that capture the expression of the land. As Domingos says, “I look for elegant wines, not blockbusters or powerful and oaked.” All three red wines paired beautifully with my main course of Sea scallops with morel mushrooms and spring green garlic. Before I dive into the dessert wine, let me give you a brief history of the estate’s Alambre Moscatel. Setúbal Moscatel is a fortified dessert wine produced in the Setúbal Peninsula that was recognized as a D.O.C. in 1907. The name Alambre was taken from the estate where José Maria da Fonseca first planted the Moscatel grape variety. The name also refers to the wine’s amber color. Alambre 20 Years D.O.C Moscatel de Setúbal is made from 100% Moscatel de Setúbal. It is a blend of 19 vintages with the youngest wine being at least 20 years old and the oldest close to 80 years old. The wine is aged in used oak with no bottle aging required due to natural oxidation. This is a beautiful fortified wine that is delightfully light and filled with pleasant acidity and flavors of candied orange, dried fruit and hazelnuts. It is a delicious treat for the palate! Alcohol: 18.4% SRP: $69.00 Alambre 40 Years D.O.C Moscatel de Setúbal is made from 100% Moscatel de Setúbal. The age for this blend varies between 40 and 50 years and the best lots were selected for the production of this wine. The wine is aged in used oak with no bottle aging required due to natural oxidation. The color is dark amber with seductive aromas of floral, dried fruit and honey. Dried apricot, orange, honey, toasted nuts and a hint of baking spice explode onto the palate. It is quite amazing! Alcohol: 18.7% SRP: $149.99 Before our luncheon came to an end, Domingos took out a vial filled with a very dark liquid. Domingos said it contained a vintage of Moscatel de Setúbal made in 1918. He shared it with us in celebration of his father who would have turned 100 years old in 2019. We were each treated to a magical thimble full of the wine. It was “manna from heaven!” Photo credit: Penny Weiss Domingos will be celebrating a personal milestone in 2020, which will mark his 40th harvest! Bravo! José Maria da Fonseca is known for its impressive portfolio of Premium, Super Premium and fortified wines. All of their wines are of high quality with many at an affordable price. Having met Domingos and sampled his wines, I can truly attest that the wines are made with care, dedication and passion.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] |
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