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Several years ago, I had the pleasure of dining with Domingos Soares Franco in New York City.  NYC 2019 Domingas Soares Franco Photo credit: Penny Weiss For those who might not know him, Domingos is co-owner and senior winemaker at José Maria da Fonseca, a historic family-run winery in Portugal. Domingos and his brother António are the sixth generation to run this winery. And now, three members of the 7th generation have joined the team. On a recent trip to Alentejo, Portugal, I was ecstatic to have the opportunity to meet again with the now semi-retired Domingos! He is as charismatic and engaging as when I first met him in 2019. His passion and enthusiasm shine through in all he does, including producing outstanding wines.  Alentejo 2022 Photo credit: Penny Weiss Domingos has the distinction of being the first Portuguese national to graduate with a degree in Fermentation Sciences (Viticulture and Oenology) from the University of California, Davis, in 1981. As he explained in 2019, “In the 1970s, there were no wine schools in Portugal or nearby, so I went to America to learn.” In addition to the knowledge he acquired from being part of one of the oldest and most prestigious wineries in Portugal, he returned from America with a newfound insight that influenced his approach to vine growing and winemaking. By 2020, Domingos had completed 40 harvests! José Maria da Fonseca was established in 1834 and is one of Portugal’s most historic wine producers. Its headquarters are in Azeitão on the Setúbal Peninsula. It is the fourth-largest winery in Portugal, with more than 650 hectares of vineyards and an extensive collection of Portugal’s top local varieties. Their vineyards are in several wine regions around Portugal, including Douro, Vinho Verde, Alentejo, Dao, and Setúbal. Alentejo has eight sub-regions, and the vineyards for José Maria da Fonseca are located in Reguengos, the largest of these sub-regions, where some of the oldest vineyards of Alentejo can be found. The landscape is dramatic, scattered with rocky outcrops and poor, stony soil. A continental climate consisting of cold winters and hot summers, along with the soils, strongly influence the viticulture here, producing powerful and full-bodied wines. Casa Agrícola José de Sousa Rosado Fernandes was purchased in 1986, which includes the Herdade do Monte da Ribeira. The property is rich in history and esteem and has produced wine since at least 1878.  Casa Agrícola José de Sousa Rosado Fernandes With the purchase of the property, José Maria da Fonseca made an old dream come true by producing wine in Alentejo using traditional winemaking techniques initiated by the Romans over 2000 years ago. In keeping with this tradition, an ancient fermentation method occurs in clay amphorae, referred to as Tahla winemaking. The winery has possession of 120 clay amphorae ranging in age from the year 1895 to 1908. Domingos said, “The Romans brought the clay pots to this region, but it was invented in Georgia.” He added, “After a trip to Georgia and tasting wines from clay pots, that was it. I was taken with the aromas and flavors of both white and red wines. Over time, the wines develop such complexity.” His collection of amphorae comes from three different origins in Portugal, but Domingos feels the clay pots made locally are the best. “The amphorae are very hard to replace and can’t be touched in winter because they are so slippery from the humidity and will break.” Slide show photo credits: Penny Weiss We tasted eight wines while visiting the winery, all of which were a treat for the nose and palate.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Here is a small sampling of these captivating wines. Dona Julieta Reserva 2020 This is a blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira, Syrah, and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats and aged six months in French and American oak.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Nose: Dark fruit, plum, earthy Palate: Rich dark fruit, a hint of fennel and chocolate, soft tannins, and nice acidity. Alcohol: 14% Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, veggies, or cod. José De Sousa Mayor 2018 This wine is a blend of Gran Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonês. Domingos described Grand Noir as a small and very concentrated berry with distinctive notes of coffee and dark chocolate. He added that during fermentation, one can smell the flavors. “It is a fantastic variety.” Fermentation for this wine takes place in talhas with part of the must, skins, and 30% stems. The other portion is fermented in lagares. A lagare is a large, open vat made of stone. The wine is aged for nine months in new oak barrels.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Nose: Ripe fruit, figs, dates, spice, a touch of leather, and wood. Palate: Dark fruit, sour cherry, rich flavor, complex and balanced with smooth tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% Pairing suggestions: Cheese, game, vegetable risotto, or potato casserole. Puro Talha Red 2015 A blend of Grand Noir, Trincadeira, Aragonês, and Moreto is vinified in 100% clay pots. No oak is used.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Nose: Floral, mineral notes, red fruit, nuts, clove, Palate: A robust and complex wine with berries, earth, clay, and spice. A hint of savory lingers on a long finish. Alcohol: 14% Pairing suggestions: Grilled red meat, game, seared tuna, cod, stews, or cheese spread. When asked about climate change, Domingos briefly replied, “I want to get ahead of climate change by experimenting and changing the clones. I think the best approach is to try different clones, definitely not change the varieties. José Maria da Fonseca has 34 brands, a market presence in 70 countries, and exports 60% of its production. Their wines are noteworthy and worth seeking out. To learn more about Alentejo, its diverse terroir, wine producers, and reviews, please click “Alentejo” on the Category menu at right. Until next time…  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Cheers!
Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Gently rolling hills dominate the landscape of Tuscany, famous for its medieval towns, wine vineyards, striking cathedrals, and the birthplace of renowned artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci. Amongst this beauty and history lies Montalcino, home to one of Italy’s most renowned wines, Brunello Di Montalcino. The village of Montalcino sits high up on a hill with vineyards sloping down into the valley.  Montalcino Montalcino is a small wine region comprised of 60,000 acres of olive groves, forests, and farmland, of which 3500 acres are devoted to wine vineyards. There are roughly 250 wineries here that produce Brunello di Montalcino.  Brunello di Montalcino was awarded the first-ever DOCG designation (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) in 1980, and it is considered one of Italy’s most famous and distinguished wines. DOCG is the highest designation given under the Italian wine law. Brunello di Montalcino is made exclusively from the Sangiovese grape, (named ‘Brunello’ in Montalcino). The skin of the Sangiovese grape is thick and tends to deliver fruit-forward wine with bright acidity and high tannins. Of course, climate, soil, and production play a big part in the wine’s outcome. The climate in Montalcino is warm and dry, typical Mediterranean weather. Vineyards are planted up to 500 meters in elevation, with north-facing slopes experiencing a cooler microclimate and more winds. In contrast, the southern and western facing slopes are exposed to extreme sunlight and maritime breezes. The vines are planted in various soils such as limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil, and galestro, which is schistous clay soil commonly found in most of Tuscany’s best vineyards. All of these elements contribute to the difference in quality, complexity, and character of the wine. Nestled amongst the hills in a setting worthy of a painting sits one of the original estates of Montalcino, Col D’Orcia, with a winemaking history that dates back to the 1700s. The estate’s name translates to “the hill overlooking the Orcia River” due to its position between the undulating hills of the Orcia River and Sant’Angelo in Colle.  Col d'Orcia estate The estate was sold to the Cinzano family in 1973. The estate only had a few hectares of vineyards at the time of purchase. Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, who now owns and manages the estate, took over Col D’Orcia in 1992. He increased his father’s plantings from 70 hectares to 150+ hectares today. And 108 of those hectares are dedicated to Sangiovese. In 2010 they began the process of converting their vineyards to organic. By 2013 all wines were certified organic. And today, it is the largest certified organic vineyard in Tuscany and the third-largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino.  Count Cinzano The Count’s mission is to produce quality wines from these hills. He said, “Quality is the result of healthy fruit. We are not just winemakers; we are farmers. We grow grapes and practice biodiversity.” He pays his respect to mother nature and is always searching for excellence. His motivation to become organic was “not to change practices, but change the mindset of people by using a homeopathic and holistic approach; that is the greatest challenge to becoming organic. And the beauty of protecting this special environment is to pass it on to future generations.” As mentioned above, Brunello di Montalcino is made exclusively from the Sangiovese grape. DOCG Regulations require that Brunello di Montalcino age for a minimum of two years in oak wooden barrels and at least four months in bottle before release. The Riserva wine must age at least six months in bottle and is released a year later onto the market. And, the wine can only be bottled in the location where it is produced.  Col d'Orcia vineyards I had the opportunity to taste the following wines with Count Cinzano. In addition to the five-star vintages of Brunello Di Montalcino, he included a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, another great vintage. All three wines are produced entirely with organically grown grapes farmed on the Col d’Orcia estate and bottled on location. Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2016 This is a blend of all the Sangiovese vineyards on the estate. The wine is aged three years in 25, 50, and 75 hl. Slavonian and French oak casks and a minimum of one year in bottle before release. (hl is a hectolitre and equal to 100 liters,)  Nose: Floral, herbs, ripe red fruit, berries, and cherry notes. Palate: Lush red fruit with cherry, plum, spice, herbs, and licorice. Medium tannins with fresh acidity and a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $59.99 Poggio Al Vento Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 The grapes for this wine are sourced from a single vineyard planted in 1974 comprised of seven hectares called Poggio al Vento, which means “windy hill.” The vines are influenced by the sea winds and the special soils of marl and limestone. This wine is only produced in the best vintages and is the icon of the estate. The Count said that the 2013 vintage was small but exceptional. The wine was aged for three years in 25 and 75hl in Slavonian and French oak barrels and for three years refinement in bottle.  Nose: Beautiful berry notes with spice, earth, and dark chocolate. Palate: Complex and well-structured with rich fruit, herbs, anise, and edgy tannins. The Count said, “The next ten years will show softness of tannins.” Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $162.00 Olmaia Cabernet Sauvignon Sant’Antimo DOC 2015 The grapes for this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon come from a single vineyard, Olmaia, planted in 2005. The Count’s father originally planted Cabernet Sauvignon in 1984 on the hills of Montalcino, and the first harvest was in 1989. Sadly, his father passed away before the first vintage was produced. The Count remarked, “This wine expresses how special Montalcino is.” The wine is aged 18 months in new French oak barriques and a small portion in American barrels, then another eight months in bottle.  Nose: Dark fruit, herbs, spice.
Palate: Rich and decadent with blackberries, black cherry, plum, herbs, spice, and chewy tannins (that will soften with aging.) A long and beautiful finish with notes of vanilla lingering. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $68.99 Count Cinzano said, “These are wines made to serve with food. It is the concept of drinkability and enjoying wines with food.” Here are some food pairing suggestions for the above wines: Aged cheese, meat dishes, stews, game, tomato-based pasta, grilled veggies, grilled portobello mushrooms, risotto with truffles, and dark chocolate for dessert. Until next time… Cheers and Buon appetito! Penina This article was originally published on Santé Magazine To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com My love affair with Sicily continues with a potpourri of delectable wines from Sicilia DOC that are sure to please the palate. Each bottle of wine is expressive of Sicily’s typical Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and landscapes of which approximately 61% is hilly, 24% is mountainous, and 15% makes up the flatter areas near the coast.  Settesoli Vineyard Photo credit: Penny Weiss As of 2020, within Sicilia DOC, there are 23,521 hectares under vine, 498 wineries, and 7,863 vine growers. With over 70 indigenous Italian grape varieties planted throughout Sicily, 31 of these varieties are planted within Sicilia DOC along with international varieties.  These six wines are produced from upland (hilly) vineyards and demonstrate the uniqueness of these elevated plateaus. The defining factors are soil, topography, and altitude, with a focus on sustainability, and many wineries that are certified organic.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Credit: Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna Helios Grillo 830m. 2020 Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna is a family-run winery founded in 2004 by 5th-generation winegrowers Klaus and Gunther Di Giovanna. The family has five vineyards located between the provinces of Palermo and Agrigento in western Sicily, and the winery is situated on a natural preserve. The grapes for this 100% Grillo are sourced from a mountainside single vineyard at 830 meters above sea level in Fiuminello, Sambuca di Sicilia. The soil is composed of limestone and ancient marine sediment that imparts a vibrant mineral finish to the wine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and French tonneaux. 90% of the wine is aged on the lees in steel for nine months, and 10% is aged in tonneaux. This wine is certified organic. Nose: Intense aromas of white flowers, citrus, and pineapple Palate: Lovely texture, rich fruit, savory and complex with vibrant acidity and minerality. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28.95 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Principi Di Butera Carizza Insolia 2020 Sicilia DOC Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located 10 kilometers from the sea and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Insolia is grown on the hillside vineyards of Butera with soil that is rich in clay. The climate is warm and dry, optimizing the development and perfect ripening of the grapes. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged six months on the lees. Carizza is the Sicilian word for “caress.” Nose: Floral, exotic and white stone fruit Palate: Rich in flavor with aromas segueing onto the palate and a hint of almond on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $16.99 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with cheese, fish, and white meat. Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2018 Sicilia DOC Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily with 32 hectares on Mt. Etna, of which 28 hectares of vines are in production. The vineyards are located on four different slopes, varying in altitude. This wine is 90% Carricante, and 10% Riesling and the grapes are sourced from the Sciaranuova vineyard with volcanic soil that is rich in minerals and black with lava sands. The altitude is between 820-860 meters above sea level. Patricia Tóth, the winemaker, noted, “The Carricante is more compact and sharp at the higher elevation.” The wine is fermented in stainless steel and remains on fine lees for five months. Nose: Floral, citrus, and white stone fruit. Palate: Rich fruit flavors, tropical notes, honeydew, with a boost of minerality, and lemon zest on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $42.99 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with fish, shellfish, and salads. Mandrarossa Cartagho 2017 Sicilia DOC Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli located in Menfi, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily, and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand that emerged in 1999. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards in Menfi at 150 meters above sea level in limestone and sandy soils. The wine is aged one year in barrique and another four months in the bottle. Nose: Rich aromas of dark berries, cherry, and a hint of spice Palate: Blackberries, ripe cherry, spice, with a touch of plum, dates, and dark chocolate. Soft, ripe tannins and subtle minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $26.49 Pairings: Aged cheese, braised beef, seared tuna, or game. Donnafugatta Sherazade 2019 Sicilia DOC The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. Sherazade is 100% Nero d’Avola, and the grapes are sourced from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate and nearby vineyards, located in the southwestern part of Sicily. The vineyards’ altitude ranges from 200 to 400 meters above sea level. Clay loam soils are rich in nutrients and contribute to the wines’ expression. This wine is aged for about four months in tanks and then a minimum of three months in the bottle. Nose: Violets, cherry, plum, balsamic, and spice. Palate: Fresh and lively with juicy red fruit, berries, plum, cherry, spice, and well-balanced tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 Pairings: Serve with mature cheese, pasta and red sauce, seared tuna, calamari, or pizza. Assuli Orlando Nero d’Avola 2018 Sicilia DOC The Caruso family owns Baglio Assuli, with the third generation now leading the company, and they are dedicated to producing high-quality 100% organic wines. Assuli is located in Mazara del Vallo in northwestern Sicily, with over 120 hectares of land. The vineyards are primarily located in the municipality of Mazara del Vallo. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards at an altitude of 100-150 meters above sea level. Soil composition is a medium texture with stones and pebbles and is rich with minerals. The wine is aged three to four months in stainless steel and then in bottle for three to four months. Nose: Floral, red fruit, dark plum, and earth. Palate: Dark cherry, plum, blackberry, anise, and a hint of spice. Good balance and long finish. Alcohol: 13.55 SRP: $20.99 Pairings: Medium-aged cheese, roasted or grilled meat, stews, or paella. Exploring the wines of Sicily is an ongoing pleasure. There is so much to discover, and you can be assured that I will be back with more wines to taste and wineries to tell you about! Until next time...
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com  On the hiking trail of the Prime Donne Located amongst the rolling hills of Tuscany lies Montalcino, home to one of Italy’s most renowned wines, Brunello Di Montalcino. Made exclusively from the Sangiovese grape, this wine was awarded the first-ever DOCG designation (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) in 1980. It is the highest designation given under Italian wine law.  Montalcino With a history that dates back to the Etruscans, winemaking has always been part of the culture here, including a male-dominated industry burdened by discrimination and habit. However, female winery owners and winemakers have taken Montalcino by storm and transformed and turned the tides to make a place for women in the wine industry. Let me introduce you to three of these dynamic and revolutionary women of Brunello Di Montalcino, who I had the opportunity to chat with recently. DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI With an estate and family history of winemaking dating back to the 16th century, owner Donatella Colombini created Casato Prime Donne in 1998. It is the first winery in Italy with an all-female staff, borne out of the desire and need to reduce discrimination and show that “muscle” is not the only ingredient required to produce wine.  Donatella Cinelli Colombini What circumstances led you to create an all-female staff? Donatella: To be truthful, it happened by chance. I am the descendant of a historic family of Brunello producers. My vineyards are on land that my ancestors began cultivating over 400 years ago. In 1998 I left the family estate to create a new project that included two properties that needed renovation: Casato in Montalcino and Fattoria del Colle in southern Chianti. To help me, my mother gave me some wine in a barrel to begin my own production of Brunello. I needed a cellar master to take care of my wines, so I called the nearest oenology school and asked for the name of a good student. They told me that they were all booked. When I called back and asked for a female student, the reply was, “We have many, as none of the good wineries want them.” I realized that discrimination was so widespread that it had become “normal,” so I decided to change the situation. From this incident came the idea of creating the “Prime Donne” Project and becoming the first winery in Italy to be staffed only by women. It demonstrates that the production of fine wines does not require muscles, just talent, and intelligence. Now we have three female winemakers, and we export to 39 nations around the world. The wine critics’ ratings are excellent, and sales are going very well. In the beginning, it was difficult, but we did it. Part of the Prime Donne project is also the Brunello Prime Donne chosen by a panel of four female wine tasters, the Prime Donne award (given to women who change the female model), and a hiking trail with quotes from the winners. You are a pioneer and inspiration to women. If you could tell the future generations of women winemakers one thing, what would it be? Donatella: I would tell them to have more courage and to learn something new every day of their life. Women are much better than they think they are, but they must have more faith in their talent. Often women renounce because they are scared of not succeeding. They renounce so they can dedicate time to the family. But this is a mistake; they will be better professionals, mothers, and wives if they accept the challenges life puts in their way. If they do not even try, then they have already lost. In the same way, it is wrong to search for professional success at any cost. “Those who go alone walk more quickly, but those who walk with others go much further,” says an old proverb to which I would like to add a phrase: Those who help others go forward will never be alone and will have given meaning to their life. GIOVANNA CIACCI Giovanna comes from a long line of winemakers with family roots that go back to 1850 when the family estate Tenuta di Sesta was founded. At that time, the family was immersed in cultivating grapes, olives, and grain. It wasn’t until 1966 that Giuseppe Ciacci bottled the estate’s first Brunello di Montalcino. In 1994 the original estate was divided among family members. Giovanna took her share of land and in 1995 created Tenuta di Collosorbo. Today, she and both of her daughters run the 30-hectare winery. Giovanna manages the general administration. Her daughter Laura works as both an oenologist and a viticulturist. Her other daughter Lucia is the agronomist and also responsible for marketing.  Giavanna Ciacci with daughters Laura and Lucia Tell me about Tenuta di Collosorbo. Giovanna: Tenuta di Collosorbo comes from one of the oldest estates of Montalcino, owned by our family since 1850. After the death of Giuseppe Ciacci, his sons decided to split the estate. It was 1995, and I gave a new name to the estate, Tenuta di Collosorbo. I have always been focused on elegance, quality, and traditions. In 2008 my daughters Laura and Lucia started working full time at the estate, making it one of the first female estates in Montalcino. Many children that grow up in a family business tend to go off and do their “own thing”. Did your daughters always know that they wanted to be part of the family business? Giovanna: Laura and Lucia grew up surrounded by the taste and smell of the wine. When they were young, before university, they were torn between their roots, estate, passion, and family, and their desire to do something different with their powers. Lucia thought of becoming a doctor, and Laura wanted to become a veterinarian. But in the end, their passion for the estate, their roots, countryside, and wine won. And both of them decided to study for it. What challenges do you and your daughters face as women in this industry? Giovanna: The wine business has been mainly a male world until 15 years ago. In the beginning, it wasn’t easy to demonstrate our competence and our power, both inside and outside of the estate. But now, after 26 years, we are really proud of our job and of the teamwork that we have created inside Collosorbo. GIOVANNA NERI Col Di Lamo is an exclusive, all-female organic winery owned by Giovanna and her daughter, Diletta. It was founded in 1994 after her daughter was born. The estate covers an area of approximately 80 hectares. Giovanna inherited her passion for wine and winemaking skills from her father, who passed away in 1991. However, she took a detour before returning to her roots. Giovanna considers her wines “her creations” (children) and continually spreads her love and respect for the land and her products. It is a small production winery of quality and refinement.  Giovanna Neri What inspired and motivated you to make this an all-female winery?
Giovanna: For me, it was a natural process. My company is my creation, which I wanted for myself, and for which I fought a lot in a world that was still very male chauvinist, especially the wine industry. I think I had to prove triple, compared to others, to make it clear that a woman, completely alone and starting from scratch, could create wines of the highest quality. When I tell my story, I always say that I consider my company another daughter of mine. I gave it a name; I dedicated all the commitment, love, and dedication I have to it, as with my daughter Diletta. Where did you do your training to become a winemaker? Giovanna: I graduated with honors in law and had embarked on a career as a lawyer. I felt, however, that this work, although gratifying, was not my way. So at the age of 40, I decided to drastically change my life and have a part of the family business (it’s not so obvious if you are a woman). So, without any particular skills and the help of anyone, I threw myself body and soul into this fantastic adventure. There have been very difficult times. The beginnings were really hard, I only had men around me, and no one believed I could do it. Luckily they are the same ones who now hold me in esteem. What is Diletta’s role in the company? Giovanna: Diletta helps me in communication. I believe that a young vision is essential in a world that runs more and more on the Internet, especially social networks. Tell me about some of your challenges with winemaking and the industry. Giovanna: I strongly believe in wine and organic products in general. I was among the first to choose this type of cultivation in Montalcino, not without criticism. But I am convinced that it is the future. I feel like a guest in this land, and I have chosen to do this job precisely because I love the planet, and I want to respect and enhance it as much as possible, even for future generations. All of these amazing women are members of Il Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, founded in 1967. Its mission is to safeguard its product and accentuate the best qualities of Brunello wines. It is a free association comprised of 203 producers representing small and large wineries, including 22 producers outside the Consorzio. As part of Il Consorzio’s initiative, Finally Brunello will be taking place in New York from June 14th through June 20th. It is an excellent opportunity to taste Brunello wine from 56 wineries paired with food from 38 participating restaurants presenting a prix fixe menu. To learn more about this event, visit https://www.finallybrunello.com/ A note on the Feature Photo: The work of art depicted in this photo is called Points of View and is located on the hiking trail of the Prime Donne connected to Casato Prime Donne Award. Until then… Cheers! Penny This story was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com This isn’t my first story or review of wines from the diverse wine region of Alentejo. These expressive wines are impressive and never disappoint my palate.  Photo courtesy of portugal-live.net For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Alentejo wine region, here is a quick recap.  Alentejo is situated in the southern half of Portugal and covers one-third of the country. This wine region is one of Portugal’s largest production areas. It is divided into eight sub-regions as seen on the map below.  For the most part, Alentejo enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate with some Atlantic influence. However, the sub-region of Portalegre experiences much cooler temperatures due to its proximity to the mountains. The terrain throughout Alentejo is mostly flat with gently rolling hills, and the soil varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills, and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone, and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. For over 2000 years, blending has been a tradition for Alentejo winemakers. With over 250 indigenous grape varieties and 14 regional wine areas, Portugal rates as the highest density of native grapes per square mile in the entire world. Imagine the blending creativity winemakers have with all these varieties at hand. With so many grapes ripening at different times, winemakers have turned what might be considered a liability into an opportunity to create beautifully blended wines. Below are five samples of red blend-based wines from Alentejo.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Herdade São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Red 2017 This wine is produced by Casa Relvas located in the Evora sub-region. It is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Touriga Nacional, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2017 was the third year of drought in Alentejo, but fortunately, due to the vines growing on clay and schist soil, they withstood the drought. Grapes are harvested in the evening when they are their most ripe. 50% of the wine was aged in French oak for four months.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Lovely aromas of red and black fruits are inviting, with plum, raspberry, and spice thrown in. Aromas continue onto the palate with juicy dark cherry, blackberry, and a touch of herbs and earth. Bright acidity and firm tannins add to this beautifully blended wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $15 Adega De Borba Reserva Red 2015, DOC Alentejo Produced in the sub-region of Borba, this wine is a blend of 30% Trincadeira, 30% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Aragonez, and 20% Castelão. The grapes originate from old vines that grow in chalky-clay and schist. The blend is aged for 12 months in 3rd and 4th-year French oak and wooden barrels and another six months in the bottle. It opens with aromas that are reminiscent of rich dark jam, berries, and baking spice. The palate offers a wonderful balance of sweet and tart, with notes of sour cherry, plum, chocolate, and smooth tannins. Flavors linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $18 Esporão Reserva Red 2016 Herdade Do Esporão first introduced this wine in 1985. It is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Alicante Bouschet. Grapes are sourced from vineyards with soil of granite/schist origin and clay/loam structure. This wine is aged for 12 months in American oak (60%) and French oak (40%) barrels, and then an additional six months in the bottle.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss It begins with a rich bouquet of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, plum and baking spice. The palate is entertained with lush dark fruit jam, spice, and a hint of plum. Smooth tannins and a long berry finish add to the richness of this wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $24 Cartuxa, Tinto 2016, DOC Évora This is a historic winery with origins dating back to 1598. Carthusian monks who established the Santa Maria Scala Coeli Monastery were the first to make wine in Cartuxa. This wine is a blend of 40% Aragonez, 40% Alicante Bouschet and 20% Trincadeira. Grapes are sourced from vineyards with vines that average about 30-years of age, on soil of granite and schist. The wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and then an additional nine months in the bottle. Heady aromas of floral, dark berries, earth, spice, and toasty notes segue onto the palate with a touch of cocoa. It is beautifully structured with fine tannins. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Carmin Reguengos Garrafeira Dos Sócios 2014 Founded in 1971, the Cooperativa Agricola de Reguengos de Monsaraz is the largest winery in Alentejo. Vineyards for this elegant wine date back to the Middle Ages and surround the historic village of Monsaraz in the sub-region of Reguengos. 65% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional and 15%Tinta Caiada make up the blend for this robust wine. It is aged for 14 months in French and American oak barrels. After aging, the wine is bottled and laid down for at least one year before release.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss This wine has a seductive bouquet of ripe plum, dark fruit, and spice that spills onto the palate. It is a richly textured wine with added notes of blackberry, black cherry, earth, and pepper. The finish is long and graceful, with smooth tannins and fine acidity.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $48 All of these wines are beautiful blends representing the magic and artistry of the winemakers in Alentejo. The structure, complexity, and expressiveness are manifested in each bottle. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com I am on the virtual road again, this time visiting Viña Ventisquero Winery with seven prime vineyards located throughout many of Chile’s wine regions.  Photo courtesy of Ventisquero Winery Gonzalo Val, President of Agrosuper, one of Chile’s largest agro-industrial companies, owns the winery. Founded in 1998, Ventisquero was first established in the Maipo Valley, which is one of Chile’s most important wine-producing regions. Since then, Ventisquero has expanded and diversified its holdings to include vineyards in Casablanca, Colchagua and Leyda Valleys and the Atacama Desert.  Felipe Tosso, head winemaker, along with winemakers Alejandro Galaz and John Duval make up an adventurous team that endeavors to explore, experiment and make an exception to the rule when producing wine. Their main quest is to preserve and honor the origins, the earth and its fruit. Above photos are courtesy of Ventisquero. From left to right: Felipe Tosso, Alejandro Galaz and John Duval Some of you might be asking, “What is a single block wine?” A vineyard is usually divided up into blocks/parcels. A single block wine is made from a single variety that is sourced from a single block within a single vineyard. I recently received four bottles of Ventisquero Grey Line Single Block wines for review.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss I asked Felipe Tosso what the motivation was behind making single block wines. He replied, “The main vision for creating single block wines was to add more value to the concept of "origins" and uniqueness of our vineyards. We found in our vineyards certain blocks with unique characteristics. We delimited and isolated these vineyards and created unique wines for our Grey Line, a commitment to terroir and a wine that is outstanding. Our main goal at Ventisquero is always to express the concept of origin and our Grey Single Block line is exactly the expression of Maipo, Colchagua and Atacama.” Grey Line Single Block Carménère 2017 This 100% Carménère is sourced from Block 5 of the Trinidad Vineyard in the Coastal Maipo Valley. The vineyard has atypical soil, sandy-clay in origin. The wine was aged for 18 months in extra fine-grain French oak barrels and then further aged in the bottle for eight months.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Tantalizing aromas of dark fruit, dark raspberry, spice and earth make their way onto the palate. Notes of plum, black cherry, pepper and a hint of baking spice add to its complexity with lush dark fruit lingering on a long finish. This is an elegant wine that is beautifully balanced with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Pair with grilled meat, game, hearty stews and seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Grey Line Single Block Pinot Noir 2017 This wine is 100% Pinot Noir. Grapes are sourced from Block 22 in the Las Terrazas vineyard located only four miles from the Pacific Ocean in the Leyda Valley. The soil here is a combination of granite, red clay and granite rock. A maritime influence contributes to minerality in the wines. It is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Subtle floral aromas mix with red berries, sweet spice and sour cherry. The palate offers juicy plum, black raspberry, spice and mineral notes. Excellent acidity and soft tannins make this a very food-friendly wine. Enjoy with seafood, pasta, fowl, salads and cheese. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Grey Line Single Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 This is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc sourced from Block 38 in the Trinidad Vineyard of the Maipo Valley. Cool climate and granite soils contribute to this expressive wine. It was aged for 18 months in extra fine-grain French oak barrels.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Delectable aromas of red fruit, dark berries, spice, earth and a hint of tobacco set the stage for this impressive wine. Intense flavors of red plum, red berries, spice, pepper and a touch of floral add to the character of this wine. It is nicely balanced with silky tannins and good acidity. Serve with aged cheese, grilled meat and hearty stews. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Grey Line Single Block Garnacha Cariñena Mataro (GCM) 2017 Grapes for this wine were sourced from Block 28 in the La Roblería, Vineyard in Apalta sub-region of Colchagua Valley. The vineyard is a short distance from the River Tinguiririca, and benefits from the mesoclimate and stony-sandy, red clay soils. This typical Mediterranean-style blend is 62% Garnacha, 19% Cariñena and 19% Mataro. It is the only red wine blend in the Grey Line. The wine is aged in extra fine-grain French oak barrels for six months, followed by a minimum of one month in the bottle.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Aromas of fresh red fruit, savory notes, strawberry, sour cherry and spice segue onto the palate with plum, red berries, herbs, spice and tobacco. A touch of minerality blends nicely with the acidity and smooth tannins, adding to the wine’s complexity. This wine was not filtered or clarified, so natural sediment may appear over time. The winemaker recommends decanting this wine for 30 minutes prior to serving. Enjoy as an aperitif or with aged cheese, grilled meat, chicken, or seared tuna.
Alcohol: 14% SRP: $24 The talented winemakers of Ventisquero have successfully bottled the Chilean terroir! These are expressive wines that capture the essence of the various vineyards and blocks they represent. I asked Felipe what goals in winemaking he might still be looking to achieve. Felipe said, “This December marks 20 years for me working at Ventisquero, a very important milestone in my career as a Winemaker. Throughout these 20 years, the winery has given me the liberty and the chance to experiment, propose, and create amazing wines. I am quite lucky for that. Having the chance to plant in terroirs so special and different such as the Atacama Desert, for example for TARA Wines, and in the altitudes of Apalta, passing through Maipo Valley, Leyda and Casablanca. Working with one of the most talented winemakers in the world, and my friend, John Duval, has been a great achievement and an amazing adventure for me. I think I have achieved all of my goals as a winemaker. For my years to come, I wish to keep making wines, which reflect our diverse and wonderful Chilean terroir in each and every bottle. My approach to winemaking will always be to reflect the places where these grapes were born.” Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com A few years ago I reviewed Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 and Pinot Noir 2016. They were impressive wines with a lot of character at a very friendly price! So, I was delighted to receive new vintage releases of these memorable wines.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss For those of you who may have missed my story on Hess wines, here is a quick recap. Donald Hess is the founder of Hess Wines, a family-owned, fifth-generation company in Napa Valley, CA. In the 1970s, Donald made a business trip to Napa Valley and it was during this visit that he took an interest in mountain winegrowing. He learned that the Mount Veeder mountain vineyards were an ideal area for growing grapes, which produce unique character and flavor due to the microclimate and soils.  In 1978 Donald made his first land purchase on Mount Veeder, a property in which winemaking and farming go back as far as 1876. This property is now the site of the Hess Collection Winery. By 1982, Donald had acquired 900 acres and in 1986 he opened the Hess Collection Winery to the public. Dave Guffy became Director of Winemaking in 1999 and Donald formally retired in 2011, passing on the baton to son-in-law Timothy Persson as CEO and daughter Sabrina, the fifth generation of the Hess family.  Tim & Sabrina with their children. Photo courtesy of Hess Collection Hess Wines focuses on sustainable farming practices and state of the art winemaking. In addition to its mountain vineyards, Hess Wines has estate vineyards in areas such as Pope Valley and near the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. They also produce wine in Argentina and South Africa. Hess Select Central Coast Pinot Noir 2018 The grapes for this 100% Pinot Noir are harvested from the Sarmento Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands region of the Central Coast. Sarmento Vineyard is located on the benchlands of the Gabilan Mountains in Monterey, where the Pacific breezes cross the range each afternoon to cool the vineyards, resulting in extended ripening over a long, moderate growing season. (Benchland is a thin stretch of level ground at the foot of slopes or mountains.)  Aging of this wine took place in French oak for up to 12 months. It opens with alluring aromas of berries, cherry, spice and vanilla. The palate offers lush layers of dark cherry, dark plum, raspberry and a lingering hint of baking spice and cherry. A beautiful marriage of silky tannins and acidity complete this irresistible Pinot Noir. Pair with grilled meat, fish, light pasta and appetizers. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $19  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Hess Select North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This is a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Sirah, 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot and 1% Syrah. The grapes are harvested from the North Coast, which is known for its mild Mediterranean climate and well-drained volcanic and gravelly soils. These prime vineyard sites produce flavorful fruit with layers of natural acidity and balanced tannins.  This wine is aged in 27% new French and American oak for 18 months. It has succulent aromas of dark berries, cherry, spice and earth. Mouthwatering flavors of rich dark fruit highlighted by plum and blackberry blend with spice, vanilla, clove and cocoa that linger on the palate. Pair this wine with grilled meat, BBQ fare, hearty fish, pasta and pizza. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $19  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Both wines are perfect for year-round pouring and will pair beautifully with a myriad of cuisine!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com  Photo credit: Penny Weiss If you haven’t read Part One of this story, then it’s time to catch up to everyone before we continue our journey heading west in Franken. http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2019/10/day-755-exploring-the-franken-wine-region-part-one.html Winzer Sommerach There are five wine cooperatives in the Franken wine region. And our first stop of the day was to the oldest cooperative, Winzer Sommerach, founded in 1901.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Located in the small community of Sommerach, (literal German translation is “The place on the sunny side of the river.”), the co-op was formed with only 36 members. Today there are 220 members (90 families) and 196 hectares of vineyards. Thomas Baumann, a winemaker and member of the co-op who is quite jovial and informative, led us on a spirited tour and wine tasting. As Thomas explained, “We have had one credo since the co-op’s inception and that is ‘Unity Is Strength’”. The vines are planted throughout ten vineyards with a variety of grapes such as Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Bacchus, Kerner, Spätburgunder and Domina. All the families tend the vineyards with passion and dedication that transcends to the wines they make. Eighty different types of wine are produced every year with well over 1.3 million liters of wine sold per year. Here is a review of the two wines we tasted. Frizzante Valentin Cuvee is a sparkling wine with a blend of three grapes, including Traminer. It is light and refreshing with soft fruit aromas and flavor. This is a nicely balanced wine with crisp acidity, minerality and fine bubbles.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2018 is 100% Silvaner with fresh aromas of citrus, grapefruit and minerality. The palate is layered with citrus, pear, melon, minerality and a touch of lemon zest on the finish. It is well balanced with lively acidity. Alcohol: 13%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The tour of the ancient wine cellar was amazing and is depicted in the slide show below. The statue is of St. Urban of Langres, the patron saint of all who work in the wine industry. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Weingut Rainer Sauer Rainer Sauer winery is located in the charming town of Volkach, a town rich with history that dates back over 1000 years. The original building where Rainer Sauer winery resides was erected in 1880 and the old wine cellar was built in 1890.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Photo credit: Penny Weiss For at least four generations, the Rainer family has been involved in the wine industry. In 1979, Helga and Rainer Sauer took over the estate and began selling wines under the Rainer Sauer label. Their son Daniel joined the team in 2007 and was involved in taking steps to direct the estate towards biodynamic farming and organic production. Daniel said, ”We are totally organic and our goal now is certification”. The winery was renovated starting in 2013 and was completed in 2015. It is an architectural masterpiece and worth stopping at for a tour and a glass of wine. And speaking of wine, Daniel met us outside when we arrived at Rainer Sauer with a glass of sparkling wine for each of us.  Daniel Sauer Photo credit: Penny Weiss As Daniel led us on the tour he explained the hopes of eventually becoming “a complete white wine winery.” The vineyards are planted with 2% red grapes and 98% white grapes of which 61% is Silvaner. His father Rainer is considered the “Pope of Silvaner”. Daniel said, “It is important to integrate tradition and modern with the least possible intervention and let the grapes speak.” The winery is the first in Franken to make use of egg-shaped concrete tanks for white wine fermentation. Daniel said, “The egg creates a completely different style of Silvaner wine with more layers and more complexity.”  Egg-shaped concrete tanks. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Here is a review of both wines we tasted. Blanc De Noir Extra Brut Sekt is a lovely sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne method. This wine is dry and very aromatic with fine and delicate bubbles. The palate offers citrus, stone fruit, minerality, bread and a hint of floral. Alcohol: 13.5%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Silvaner AB OVO 2017 is 100% Silvaner and was fermented in egg-shaped concrete tanks. OVO means ‘from the egg’. This is a rich and complex wine with aromas of citrus, grapefruit and minerality that spill onto the palate with fresh tangerine, pear and herbal notes. Lively acidity brings it all together for a unique Silvaner experience. Alcohol: 13%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss In the Rainer Sauer upstairs tasting room, a mural of photographs and words tell the story of the winery and one phrase that spoke to me so deeply was this.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The German translation to English is: “The center of the world is always where you are right now.” For more information about this winery, please visit https://www.weingut-rainer-sauer.de It was time for lunch and another wine cellar tour, so we made our way to Restaurant Zur Schwane in Volkach. Not only is Zur Schwane a restaurant, but they also have a hotel and winery with a very old wine cellar. In 1996, Ralph Düker and Eva Pfaff-Düker became owners of this historic building that dates back over 600 years. Here are a few photos from our brief time spent here. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Our next stop on this whirlwind tour was the town of Iphofen, nestled in the heartland of Franken where time has stood still for over 800 years. This medieval town is complete with stone walls and gates and a population of fewer than 5000 people. Crooked timber-framed houses sit in defiance on quiet roads. In fact, the most noise one hears are the beautiful church bells that seem to chime at any given moment. We asked the guide how the town survived so many wars without one scar. He told us that Iphofen became a hospital during the last war. A large red cross was painted in the town square warning planes not to drop bombs! In addition to its history, Iphofen is central to many vineyards. Vinothek Iphofen is a local place to taste and enjoy wine from the region. Here is a short slide show of Iphofen. BTW, Vinothek translated is ‘wine store’. Photo credits: Penny Weiss The day ended with wine and “Franconian Tapas” at Vinotheque Fahr Away in Volkach, a wine bar owned by Heike and Thomas Braun. They also own a hotel and make delicious wine. We tasted a variety of wines from Familienweingut Braun with their cellarmaster Kristin Zwiener who guided us through the wines as we enjoyed eight tapas paired nicely with the wine. It was a feast for the palate! Photo credits: Penny Weiss https://weinbar-fahraway.de The next day we drove to the Haßberge district where the low mountains and rolling hills of the Hassberge Mountains are located. Our destination was Zeil am Main, a town on the right side of the Main River. Views of castle ruins, medieval walls and endless vineyards are breathtaking here. We met up with Max Martin of Weingut Martin who was our guide on a vigorous hike up the Abt-Degan-Steig, a trail on the southern slope of the Haßberge Mountains. We hiked through medieval vineyards, small vineyard terrace, stone staircases and the vineyards of Weingut Martin. The photo of the “happy face” house is actually a former wine shelter. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Weingut Martin is a family-run fourth-generation winery that has passed down knowledge and secrets of winemaking from generation to generation. Max Martin is the fourth generation and has taken all the past knowledge learned to further develop and integrate traditional and modern methods of winemaking. Weingut Martin has about 5.5 hectares of vines that grow in a macroclimate with the rich soils of Keuper that help to give the wine its unique character. After our hike, we were treated to a lovely lunch and wine tasting at Weingut Martin.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Barbarossa Dornfelder QbA Trocken 2016 is 100% Dornfelder with concentrated aromas of dark berries and a hint of floral. The palate offers blackberry, dark plum, herbs, a hint of spice and smooth tannins. This is a juicy, but dry wine. It is easy to drink and food-friendly. Alcohol: 12%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Olschnabel Silvaner 2018 is 100% Silvaner with enticing aromas of stone fruit and minerality. This is well rounded with crisp acidity and minerality with subtle flavors of citrus, peach and herbs. Alcohol: 12.5%  Photo credit: Penny Weiss For further information, please visit www.weingut-max-martin.de And what would a visit to Germany be if we didn’t stop for Kaffee und Kuchen (cake and coffee). This is an afternoon tradition that has been part of German life for hundreds of years. We were invited to partake of this ritual at Brauhaus 3 in Konigsberg in Bayern. Brauhaus 3 is a tiny village with 90 residents. Silvia and Thomas Schuhmann own three luxury ecological wellness holiday apartments that are sustainable and ecological. There is a large garden area with a natural pond biosphere. Everything is made in Germany and built by the very creative and talented Thomas. We were given a sneak peek of his new construction that is energy self-sufficient and quite unique! Photo credits: Penny Weiss After filling up on lots of Kuchen, we headed to the quaint and historic town of Königsberg for a stroll. As my photos will show, I was drawn to the architecture and a few eye-catching doors. The Franken wine region has stolen my heart and I can’t wait to return. There is much to explore and the wines truly define the terroir and the creativity of the winemakers. All the winemakers that I met stressed the importance of letting the grapes and terroir speak with as little intervention as possible. It was a great introduction for me to taste the many styles of Silvaner. I hope that I have aroused your interest in exploring the wines of this region.
No doubt, I’ve omitted a few restaurants and hotels from this story. However, some have already been mentioned on social media and there is more to come. Until next time… Auf Wiedersehen und Prost! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It might have been an overcast and drizzly day in Manhattan, but in the upstairs private dining room at Aldea, a Portuguese restaurant, the mood was anything but somber. A few wine writers had gathered to meet the very charismatic and engaging Domingos Soares Franco. If you don’t know his name, then you should!  Domingos Soares Franco Photo courtesy of JM da Fonseca Domingos is co-owner and senior winemaker at José Maria da Fonseca, a historic family-run winery in Portugal. Domingos along with his brother is part of the sixth generation to run this winery and the seventh generation is now joining the ranks. Domingos holds the distinction of being the first Portuguese national to graduate with a degree in Fermentation Sciences (Viticulture and Oenology) from the University of California, Davis in 1981. As he put it, “in the 1970s there were no wine schools in Portugal or nearby, so I went to America to learn.” In addition to the knowledge he acquired from being part of one of the oldest and most prestigious wineries in Portugal, he returned from America with a newfound insight that influenced his approach to vine growing and winemaking. He combines Portuguese tradition with a dash of modern thrown in. Domingos currently works with 30 grape varieties and enjoys seeking out varieties and blends that will appeal to the consumer. With a twinkle in his eyes, he said: “It’s a secret as to how I judge if a wine will make the consumer happy.” José Maria da Fonseca was established in 1834 and is one of Portugal’s most historic wine producers. Its headquarters are in Azeitão on the Setúbal Peninsula. It is the 4th largest winery in Portugal with more than 650 hectares of vineyards containing a collection of Portugal’s top local varieties. Their vineyards are located in several wine regions around Portugal that include Douro, Vinho Verde, Alentejo, Dao and Setúbal.  The Fernandes Soares Franco winery located in Azeitão is a state of the art winery that was established in 1999. The winery is entirely computerized and has a 6.5 million-liter capacity with 513 vinification tanks, including traditional presses that date back to the 20th century. The six-member winemaking team is made up of two women and four men with Domingos at the helm. Domingos admits, “I wish we had more women winemakers. Women have a much more sensitive nose”. The team works closely together engaging in research studies, experiments and innovation. Domingos is always present for the blending sessions and he still makes the blends.  Team of winemakers Photo courtesy of JM da Fonseca We began our luncheon with a special cocktail called Alambre Burbujas made with a perfect blend of Alambre Muscatel, dry Sparkling wine, honey and bitters. It was heavenly and a must serve for the summer days ahead.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Here is the recipe: Alambre Burbujas 1.5oz Alambre Moscatel 1 round of orange 2 dashes Angostura bitters .5 bar spoon honey 2oz dry sparkling wine Build: Combine Alambre, honey, orange and bitters in mixing vessel, muddle lightly to express the orange into the combination Add ice and stir to chill and combine flavors Strain into wine glass Add dry sparkling wine Garnish with Orange rind We tasted through five wines over a three-course meal.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The first two wines were 2017 vintages. Domingos said, “2017 was a strange season with lots of rain and heat waves, but it was our best harvest in sixty years.”  From left to right: Jose de Sousa, Periquita Reserva and Domini Plus Photo credit: Penny Weiss José de Sousa 2017 Region: Alentejo The José de Sousa Rosado Fernandez Cellar, which was founded in 1878, was purchased by José Maria da Fonseca in 1986, fulfilling their dream to produce wine in Alentejo. In keeping with a 2000-year-old Roman tradition, an ancient fermentation method takes place in ceramic amphorae (also called Talha winemaking). The José de Sousa Cellar owns 126 of these pots.  Alentejo is well known for making Talha wines and it is part of the wine culture here.  For the José de Sousa 2017, a small portion of the wine is fermented in the clay amphorae followed by 9 months of resting in French and American oak casks. The remainder of wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is a blend of 58% Grand Noir, 22% Trincadeira and 20% Aragonês all harvested from the Alentejo region. The color is deep red with succulent aromas of dark fruit and spices. Concentrated flavors of rich and juicy fruit, cherry, spice, licorice, firm tannins, nice acidity and a hint of vanilla permeate the palate. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $19.99 Periquita Reserva 2017 Region: Setúbal Peninsula José Maria da Fonseca holds the prestige of being the first ever to bottle wine in Portugal. In 1850 the Periquita brand, a Castelão based dry wine was the first bottled wine released from the estate.  Periquita Reserva 2017 is a blend of 56% Castelão, 22% Touriga Nacional and 22% Touriga Francesa. The wine is aged for 8 months in French and American new and used oak. Domingos explained that about 80% is new oak in order to give the wine a bit more vanilla. The color is ruby with aromas of red berries, strawberry, cherry, spice and vanilla that segue onto the palate with plum, dark cherry and hints of anise. This wine is beautifully balanced with good acidity and soft tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $14.99 Domini Plus 2015 Region: Douro Sub-Region: Douro Superior This wine is a blend of 96% Touriga Francesa and 4% Touriga Nacional. Grapes were harvested from a combination of old and new vines in vineyards that span 37 acres in Douro Superior. The wine is aged for 10 months in new French oak casks.  This wine has a deep ruby color and inviting aromas of floral, dark berries, anise and hints of tobacco. The palate is layered with dense dark fruit, earth, spice and a touch of minerality. This is another easy drinking wine that has richness to it with good acidity and smooth tannins. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $44.99 This is a nice selection of easy drinking red blends that capture the expression of the land. As Domingos says, “I look for elegant wines, not blockbusters or powerful and oaked.” All three red wines paired beautifully with my main course of Sea scallops with morel mushrooms and spring green garlic.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Before I dive into the dessert wine, let me give you a brief history of the estate’s Alambre Moscatel. Setúbal Moscatel is a fortified dessert wine produced in the Setúbal Peninsula that was recognized as a D.O.C. in 1907. The name Alambre was taken from the estate where José Maria da Fonseca first planted the Moscatel grape variety. The name also refers to the wine’s amber color. Alambre 20 Years D.O.C Moscatel de Setúbal is made from 100% Moscatel de Setúbal. It is a blend of 19 vintages with the youngest wine being at least 20 years old and the oldest close to 80 years old. The wine is aged in used oak with no bottle aging required due to natural oxidation. This is a beautiful fortified wine that is delightfully light and filled with pleasant acidity and flavors of candied orange, dried fruit and hazelnuts. It is a delicious treat for the palate! Alcohol: 18.4% SRP: $69.00 Alambre 40 Years D.O.C Moscatel de Setúbal is made from 100% Moscatel de Setúbal. The age for this blend varies between 40 and 50 years and the best lots were selected for the production of this wine. The wine is aged in used oak with no bottle aging required due to natural oxidation. The color is dark amber with seductive aromas of floral, dried fruit and honey. Dried apricot, orange, honey, toasted nuts and a hint of baking spice explode onto the palate. It is quite amazing! Alcohol: 18.7% SRP: $149.99  40 Years on left and 20 Years on right Before our luncheon came to an end, Domingos took out a vial filled with a very dark liquid. Domingos said it contained a vintage of Moscatel de Setúbal made in 1918. He shared it with us in celebration of his father who would have turned 100 years old in 2019. We were each treated to a magical thimble full of the wine. It was “manna from heaven!” Photo credit: Penny Weiss  The Trifecta! Photo credit: Penny Weiss Domingos will be celebrating a personal milestone in 2020, which will mark his 40th harvest! Bravo!  Photo credit: Penny Weiss José Maria da Fonseca is known for its impressive portfolio of Premium, Super Premium and fortified wines. All of their wines are of high quality with many at an affordable price. Having met Domingos and sampled his wines, I can truly attest that the wines are made with care, dedication and passion.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com There are 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered in Portugal, many of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The Alvarinho, Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are probably the most widely known by name. A lesser-known grape by the name of Alicante Bouschet is my focus today. Portugal is divided into fourteen regional wine areas, each with its own unique geography and climate.  Map credit: viniportugal The Alentejo wine region covers a third of Portugal in the southern half of the country and enjoys a Mediterranean climate. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil. The soil of Alentejo varies throughout its eight sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic. Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown here are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz, the star grape of the region. And speaking of stars, Alicante Bouschet is the signature red grape of the Alentejo region. Alicante Bouschet is a teinturier grape variety. Simply put, the flesh and juice are red in color. There are very few red grapes that have red flesh. Most wine grapes have white flesh and juice, even the dark-skinned grapes.  Alicante Bouschet grape halved. Photo credit: Catavino Alicante Bouschet is the result of a French crossbreeding of Petit Bouschet and Grenache. It was introduced to Alentejo over 100 years ago and first planted at Herdade do Mouchão. Alicante Bouschet’s nickname is “Tinta de Escrever” (writing ink) for its production of inky colored red wine. In addition to its distinctive inky color, Alicante Bouschet wines are fruit forward and laden with dark fruit, spice and noted for their massive structure and firmness. I received five samples of Alicante Bouschet from Alentejo for review. They were all impressive!  Herdade Do Rocim Alicante Bouschet 2016 is 100% Alicante Bouschet manually harvested from the winegrowing sub-region of Vidigueira located in Southern Alentejo. It has the most temperate microclimate of the region and the soil is predominately granite and schist. Fermentation takes place in stone lagares and the wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months and bottle aged for 6 months.  Aromas of dark cherry, berries and hints of violets segue onto the palate with black and red fruit, spice and fennel with lingering notes of plum and dark cherry. Nice acidity balanced with firm tannins add to the quality of this wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20 Casa Relvas Herdade De São Miguel Alicante Bouschet 2015 is 100% Alicante Bouschet mechanically harvested at night from the winegrowing sub-region of Redondo. Vines grow in soils of clay and schist. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats with maturation in French oak.  The nose offers fresh ripe fruit, blackberry, baking spice and earth. Cherry, plum, pomegranate, hints of herbs and lots of spice spill onto the palate with a satisfying finish of balanced acidity and tannins. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $23 Herdade Dos Grous Moon Harvested 2016 is 100% Alicante Bouschet hand-harvested at night from the Albernoa based vineyards in lower Alentejo. According to the winery, “the grapes are hand-picked in the cycle of greater influence of the moon in sap transport.” Vines grow in sedimentary schist and greywacke soils. Fermentation and maceration begin in traditional lagares (containers made of granite) and ends in new French oak barrels, aging there for 12 months.  Concentrated aromas of dark berries, cassis, baking spice and vanilla envelop the nose. Layers of dark cherry, plum, blackberry and pepper tease the palate with a nice balance between the tannins and acidity. A silky mouthfeel and long finish add to the richness of this wine. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Dona Maria Grande Reserva 2012 is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet 20% Petit Verdot, 20% Syrah and 10% Touriga Nacional. The grapes are selected from old vines in the northern Alentejo area of Estremoz where the soil is clay and limestone. The grapes are vinified in ancient marble lagares using the traditional foot-treading method and the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for one year.  Heady aromas of dark fruit, floral, anise and cocoa lead the way to an intense palate of dark ripe fruit, spice, hints of violet, vanilla and smooth tannins. The finish is long with a lingering taste of dark cherry. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 Herdade do Mouchão Red 2013 is 100% Alicante Bouschet sourced from the Carapetos Vineyard, the estate’s oldest vineyard planted in 1988 in northern Alentejo’s Portalegre area. The soil is a Mediterranean mix of clay and sand with a Mediterranean climate of cold winters and hot summers. “The wine is only produced in years when grapes attain exceptional ripening quality.” Once harvested, whole bunches of grapes are foot-trodden twice daily in stone tanks and then fermented, racked and aged in large wooden casks for three years. Once bottled, the wine ages for an additional 2 to 3 years.  I’m starting my description of this wine with a big “Wow”! Seductive aromas of concentrated dark berries, dark cherry, floral, sweet spice and earthy notes had me salivating for my first sip of this wine. A rich texture of flavors danced around my palate offering lush fruit such as black cherry, black plum, sweet spice, pepper and notes of balsamic. Hints of licorice and chocolate lingered on a long finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine with firm tannins and acidity. An elegant wine, for sure!
Alcohol: 14% SRP: $60 Alentejo producers and growers embrace and practice sustainability with a mission to protect their fragile eco-system. In 2014, the Alentejo Regional Wine Growing Commission created a voluntary initiative for grape growers and wine producers called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme in order to improve social, environmental and economic welfare. Needless to say, Alicante Bouschet will now be a part of my wine collection. Alentejo wines continue to impress me and they are definitely worth exploring. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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