Whenever I travel to Sicily, the anticipation and thrill of adventure always sends me to the moon and beyond. And once I arrive, I am never disappointed! In early September, my latest trip took me to the island’s eastern side to explore Mount Etna, where I savored the unique wines from grapes grown on this very active volcano! Through the gracious invitation of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC, I and many wine writers worldwide participated in a three-day event called #EtnaDays. It was an immersion of walk-around tastings, an Etna appellation masterclass, spending time with producers, hiking through vineyards, enjoying the local cuisine, and ending the trip with a fabulous beach party. Slide show and video credits: Penny Weiss Mount Etna Mount Etna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the east coast of Sicily, just north of Catania. It is the largest active volcano in Europe, on the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is majestic, mesmerizing, and quite the scene-stealer! Whether emitting gentle wisps, billowing smoke, or bursts of fire, Mount Etna makes its presence known 24/7! Mount Etna is believed to be over 500,000 years old. Its shape is ever-changing due to its constant activity of ash emission, lava flow, and the creation of new craters. Mount Etna is 3,300 meters (10,826.77 ft) above sea level and 45 kilometers (about 28 miles) in diameter. The vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters (1312 ft and 2624 ft) above sea level but can reach up to 1000 meters. (3280ft) The steep, terraced slopes can be challenging, hard to navigate, and tiring to work with. Most of the harvesting has to be done by hand. Due to these extreme conditions, the term “heroic viticulture” was born. Below is a screenshot from an app I used on this trip of how high in altitude I was while visiting one of the vineyards. One might ask how growing grapes on an active volcano is possible. It is a little daunting, but the volcanic wines produced here are noteworthy! A few years ago, I had lunch with Patricia Tóth, head winemaker at Planeta, who specializes in producing Etna wines. Patricia also happens to live on Mount Etna. I asked her if living and working on an active volcano was worrisome. Patricia said, “We are happier when there are small eruptions as opposed to being silent. If it were silent, the pressure would start to build, and that is not good.” According to the Consorzio, “The surface that falls within the Etna DOC is just under 1.200 hectares.” The production area covers the northern, eastern, southeastern, and southwestern slopes of the volcano and is located in the territories of 20 municipalities, all in the province of Catania. Below is a map of the slopes in the shape of a semicircle and the territories. There is much diversity in the soil and climate conditions from slope to slope, affecting grape growing on Mount Etna. This leads to a different outcome for the wine when only a few hundred meters separate one production plot from another. Each slope varies in temperature and soil. The volcanic soil can be pebbly and gravelly, sandy or chalky, with lots of minerals and nutrients. The high elevation and exposure to the hot sun with cool Mediterranean breezes and large temperature swings between day and night add to the complexity of the grapes’ characteristics. The microclimate and terroir on each side of the mountain can define what grapes are planted. With regard to elevation, as one ascends the mountain, volcanic soil tends to be richer and darker from the lava flow. The temperatures vary with Alpine conditions at the top and typical Mediterranean climate descending the mountain. An active volcano providing black volcanic soil, cool climate growing conditions, and plenty of sunshine makes Etna an ideal location for making crisp white and racy red wines. A Brief Description of the slopes from Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Etna DOC The Four Volcanic Slopes The Northern slope has the highest number of producers and the gentlest slopes. The climate is cold but protected by the surrounding mountain ranges of Peloritani and Nebrodi. The most cultivated variety is the red Nerello Mascalese. The Eastern slope overlooks the Ionian Sea and is the most exposed to rain and winds. The bush vines are cultivated on small terraces up to 900 meters above sea level. On the eastern slope, the white grape Carricante is dominant. The South-Eastern slope has several eruptive cones, which are now all extinct. The numerous vineyards are often trained as bush vines (i.e. gobelet vine training), which allows them to be kissed by the sun and sea breezes. The Nerello Mascalese and Carricante varieties grow here in ideal conditions and easily reach perfect ripeness. The South-Western slope is the furthest from the sea and, therefore, is characterized by a strong temperature range. This area has less rain, is beaten by hot winds, and has great solar intensity. The cultivations of the red Nerello Cappuccio and the white Carricante find excellent conditions and can exceed 1000 meters above sea level. The Grapes Nerello Mascalese is an indigenous grape used to produce red, rosé, and sparkling wines. It is the most widespread grape variety planted on Mount Etna. The wines made from Nerello Mascalese have a high alcohol content, high level of acidity, ruby color, delicate hints of fruit, minerality, great finesse, medium structure, and good balance. Nerello Cappuccio is an indigenous grape used to produce red, rosé, and sparkling wines. Wines made from Nerello Cappuccio have a low alcohol content and good acidity. Its ruby red color is deeper than that of Nerello Mascalese, with subtle violet tones. The nose shows herbaceous and spicy scents with floral and fruit. The palate offers delicate tannins, freshness, and medium structure. Carricante is an indigenous white grape variety used to produce white wine. Once used as a blend with other grapes, Carricante is now vinified as a single variety and is the main variety in blends. It has lovely aromas of citrus, white flowers, and white stone fruit with lots of minerality on the palate. Catarratto is an indigenous white grape variety that is declining in popularity on Etna. According to the Consorzio, “Today, we tend to distinguish the Catarratto variety according to its clones, which are actually quite different from each other. The two main and most widespread are the Catarratto Bianco Comune and the Catarratto Bianco Lucido. At its best, it carries aromas of citrus and herbs, structure, freshness, and a pleasant mineral aftertaste.” Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC The Etna DOC appellation was established in 1968. Etna wines were among the first in Sicily to obtain a DOC (Denomination of Origin) and one of several oldest in Italy. The Consorzio Tutela Vino Etna DOC was created in January 1994 to enhance and protect Etna wines and its territory. As of this writing, the Consorzio recently released a press bulletin stating they are going to begin steps to obtain the prestigious DOCG recognition, the highest recognition for wines in Italy. (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin.) Francesco Cambria, president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC, said, “We are very happy. This is an important, I would say, historic decision for the entire Etnean territory.” With over 200 members (producers) in the Consorzio, it was a unanimous decision to begin the process. Francesco further commented, “The wish of all the producers of our denomination is that the great work carried out so far and the prestige that the market has now recognized for our wines be definitively legitimized, also through the achievement of the highest step of the pyramid of the denomination certification system.” Some changes to the current production specifications will take place, but the overall borders of the Etna appellation will remain the same. Although I’ve been drinking Etna wines for several years, the pure joy of tasting these wines while on Mount Etna is beyond sublime! I’ll dive deeper into the wines and styles, history, slopes, terroir, and cuisine and visit a few wineries in more Etna articles to come soon. Much to share! Stay tuned! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It’s time to break out the sparklers, watch a fireworks show, and plan a backyard BBQ! Whether you’re firing up the grill or packing a picnic basket for the beach, here are four palate-pleasing red, white, and pink wines to complement many food options. Quattro Quarti Grillo DOC Sicilia 2019 This 100% Grillo is produced by Cantine Ermes, founded in 1998 in the heart of Belice Valley in Sicily. They have an impressive 10,592 hectares of vineyards spread across Sicily. The grapes for this wine are sourced from four different territories and exhibit “a mosaic of identity” that includes an elegant Mediterranean bouquet. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, and citrus. Palate: Peach, grapefruit, crisp acidity, salinity, and very refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Seafood, grilled chicken, oysters, and salads. Or enjoy it as an aperitif. Francis Ford Coppola Sofia Brut Rosé 2018 This lovely sparkling rosé is a tribute to Francis Ford Coppola’s only daughter. The grapes are sourced from their vineyards in Monterey County, California, and are a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This light and refreshing wine is perfect for kicking off any festivities. Nose: Floral, tart berries, sweet strawberries, citrus, and spice. Palate: Ripe strawberries, citrus, and spice, with light effervesce, a creamy mouthfeel, and crisp acidity. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $19 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with light fare. Great with chocolate cake too! Las Moradas De San Martín Initio 2015 Located on the Madrid side of the Gredos range of hills in Spain, this is where the winery’s vineyards are for the ancient Garnacha vines that were recovered and had been cultivated since the 12th century. This 100% Garnacha is from a single vineyard with vines that are over 60 years old. The wine is aged for 17 months in oak. Nose: Cherry, balsamic notes, berries, plum, and minerality. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with wild berries and fennel. It is fresh and lively! Alcohol: 15% SRP: $16 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, stews, paella, cheese, or seared tuna. Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2018 Family-owned Jordan Vineyard & Winery is located in Alexander Valley AVA, in the heart of Sonoma County, California. Jordan focuses on producing noteworthy Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Taken from different blocks, this is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 2% Malbec. The wine was aged in 100% French oak for 13 months, 35% new, and 65% one-year-old barrels. Nose: Dark cherry, dark berries, baking spice, and fig. Palate: Lush blackberry mingled with savory notes, toasted nuts, a hint of raspberry, silky tannins, and vanilla lingering on a long and elegant finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $60 Pairing suggestions: Grilled or roasted meats and game, mushroom risotto, grilled veggies, or hearty meat and vegetarian stews. Enjoy the holiday weekend and be safe! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com You’re right! I can’t seem to stay away from Sicily! Let’s face it; there is so much to explore! It is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the second-largest wine-producing region in Italy (Puglia being first). Still, Sicily takes first place for the number of vineyards in a region. There is a multitude of wineries with over 70 indigenous grape varieties planted, as well as international varieties. I know I’m being repetitive with information, but my enthusiasm for Sicily keeps erupting. So I will tame the beast for now, and if you seek more information, please check out my “many” articles on Sicily from the menu on the right. Here are three more gems from this magical island to please your palate! Planeta La Segreta Il Rosso Sicilia DOC 2019
Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily. The grapes for this blend are sourced from the Menfi territory, which contains the majority of Planeta’s vineyards on the western side of the island. This wine is 50% Nero d’Avola, 25% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Maturation takes place in stainless steel tanks. Nose: Red berries, spice, and cherry. Palate: A light and fresh wine with aromas continuing onto the palate with herbal notes and smooth tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $15.99 Pairings: Appetizers, light pasta dishes, grilled salmon, chicken, or a veggie burger. Feudo Principi Di Butera Deliella Nero D’Avola, Sicilia DOC 2014 Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located in the southeastern part of Sicily, 10 kilometers from the sea, and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Nero D’Avola is the premier cru produced by this estate, and grapes are sourced from a single vineyard. It is aged for14 months, 90% in barrels and 10% in second-use tonneaux. The wine is then aged for about one year in bottle. Nose: Dark cherry, red fruit, baking spice, and a touch of herbs. Palate: Beautiful and structured with notes of cherry, dark berries, and herbs with a perfect balance of minerality and acidity. A long finish with lingering notes of spice and cherry. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $89.99 Pairings: Appetizers, roasted white meat, stews, glazed duck, seared tuna, or aged cheese. Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito Di Pantelleria Sicilia DOC 2017 The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. This is a naturally sweet wine made with 100% dried Zibibbo grapes sourced from vineyards on Pantelleria Island off the coast of Sicily. Nose: Rich notes of floral, figs, apricots, raisins, and honey. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with a hint of minerality and herbs, creating a gentle sweetness and savory perfection. The bonus is a long and intense finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 for a 375ml bottle Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with cheese and dessert. No doubt I’ll be back soon with more selections to enjoy from Sicily! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com My love affair with Sicily continues with a potpourri of delectable wines from Sicilia DOC that are sure to please the palate. Each bottle of wine is expressive of Sicily’s typical Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and landscapes of which approximately 61% is hilly, 24% is mountainous, and 15% makes up the flatter areas near the coast. As of 2020, within Sicilia DOC, there are 23,521 hectares under vine, 498 wineries, and 7,863 vine growers. With over 70 indigenous Italian grape varieties planted throughout Sicily, 31 of these varieties are planted within Sicilia DOC along with international varieties. These six wines are produced from upland (hilly) vineyards and demonstrate the uniqueness of these elevated plateaus. The defining factors are soil, topography, and altitude, with a focus on sustainability, and many wineries that are certified organic. Di Giovanna Helios Grillo 830m. 2020 Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna is a family-run winery founded in 2004 by 5th-generation winegrowers Klaus and Gunther Di Giovanna. The family has five vineyards located between the provinces of Palermo and Agrigento in western Sicily, and the winery is situated on a natural preserve. The grapes for this 100% Grillo are sourced from a mountainside single vineyard at 830 meters above sea level in Fiuminello, Sambuca di Sicilia. The soil is composed of limestone and ancient marine sediment that imparts a vibrant mineral finish to the wine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and French tonneaux. 90% of the wine is aged on the lees in steel for nine months, and 10% is aged in tonneaux. This wine is certified organic. Nose: Intense aromas of white flowers, citrus, and pineapple Palate: Lovely texture, rich fruit, savory and complex with vibrant acidity and minerality. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28.95 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Principi Di Butera Carizza Insolia 2020 Sicilia DOC Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located 10 kilometers from the sea and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Insolia is grown on the hillside vineyards of Butera with soil that is rich in clay. The climate is warm and dry, optimizing the development and perfect ripening of the grapes. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged six months on the lees. Carizza is the Sicilian word for “caress.” Nose: Floral, exotic and white stone fruit Palate: Rich in flavor with aromas segueing onto the palate and a hint of almond on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $16.99 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with cheese, fish, and white meat. Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2018 Sicilia DOC Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily with 32 hectares on Mt. Etna, of which 28 hectares of vines are in production. The vineyards are located on four different slopes, varying in altitude. This wine is 90% Carricante, and 10% Riesling and the grapes are sourced from the Sciaranuova vineyard with volcanic soil that is rich in minerals and black with lava sands. The altitude is between 820-860 meters above sea level. Patricia Tóth, the winemaker, noted, “The Carricante is more compact and sharp at the higher elevation.” The wine is fermented in stainless steel and remains on fine lees for five months. Nose: Floral, citrus, and white stone fruit. Palate: Rich fruit flavors, tropical notes, honeydew, with a boost of minerality, and lemon zest on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $42.99 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with fish, shellfish, and salads. Mandrarossa Cartagho 2017 Sicilia DOC Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli located in Menfi, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily, and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand that emerged in 1999. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards in Menfi at 150 meters above sea level in limestone and sandy soils. The wine is aged one year in barrique and another four months in the bottle. Nose: Rich aromas of dark berries, cherry, and a hint of spice Palate: Blackberries, ripe cherry, spice, with a touch of plum, dates, and dark chocolate. Soft, ripe tannins and subtle minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $26.49 Pairings: Aged cheese, braised beef, seared tuna, or game. Donnafugatta Sherazade 2019 Sicilia DOC The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. Sherazade is 100% Nero d’Avola, and the grapes are sourced from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate and nearby vineyards, located in the southwestern part of Sicily. The vineyards’ altitude ranges from 200 to 400 meters above sea level. Clay loam soils are rich in nutrients and contribute to the wines’ expression. This wine is aged for about four months in tanks and then a minimum of three months in the bottle. Nose: Violets, cherry, plum, balsamic, and spice. Palate: Fresh and lively with juicy red fruit, berries, plum, cherry, spice, and well-balanced tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 Pairings: Serve with mature cheese, pasta and red sauce, seared tuna, calamari, or pizza. Assuli Orlando Nero d’Avola 2018 Sicilia DOC The Caruso family owns Baglio Assuli, with the third generation now leading the company, and they are dedicated to producing high-quality 100% organic wines. Assuli is located in Mazara del Vallo in northwestern Sicily, with over 120 hectares of land. The vineyards are primarily located in the municipality of Mazara del Vallo. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards at an altitude of 100-150 meters above sea level. Soil composition is a medium texture with stones and pebbles and is rich with minerals. The wine is aged three to four months in stainless steel and then in bottle for three to four months. Nose: Floral, red fruit, dark plum, and earth. Palate: Dark cherry, plum, blackberry, anise, and a hint of spice. Good balance and long finish. Alcohol: 13.55 SRP: $20.99 Pairings: Medium-aged cheese, roasted or grilled meat, stews, or paella. Exploring the wines of Sicily is an ongoing pleasure. There is so much to discover, and you can be assured that I will be back with more wines to taste and wineries to tell you about! Until next time...
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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