Over the last few years I have had the pleasure of meeting many dynamic women in the wine industry from around the world. These women hold positions that range from winemakers and winery owners to operations management, business development, marketing and financial planning. They are a rarity in an industry that has been notoriously dominated by men. Happily, the landscape is changing and more women globally are rising to the occasion and making their presence known in the wine world. I was recently invited by Bethany Burke of Taub Family Selections to join a panel discussion and virtual tasting on Zoom, focusing on “The Next Generation of Women In Wine”. Dr. Laura Catena of Bodegas Catena Zapata & Bodegas CARO in Mendoza, Argentina moderated this lively discussion. She was joined by panelists Anne Trimbach, of Trimbach in Alsace, France, Laure Colombo, of Vins Jean-Luc Colombo in Cornas, Rhone Valley, France and Alessia Collauto Travaglini of Travaglini in Gattinara, Piemonte, Italy. These accomplished and talented women were all born into multi-generation family-owned wineries, but their backgrounds and the paths they took before joining the family business are diverse. However, they all share the experience “as women” of assuming an important position and role in their family wineries. Here is an introduction to these amazing women. Also, each panelist selected a wine representative of her family’s estate for us to taste. Dr. Laura Catena Proprietor, Bodegas CARO Mendoza, Argentina Laura is a fourth-generation Argentine vintner, born in Mendoza, Argentina. Her great-grandfather founded the Catena Winery in 1902 after emigrating from Italy. In addition to being the proprietor of Bodegas CARO, Laura is currently managing director of Bodega Catena Zapata. Her path to becoming a vintner in her family’s winery was quite circuitous. Laura graduated magna cum laude from Harvard in 1988 and then earned a medical degree from Stanford University. It wasn’t until 1995 that she joined her father, Nicolas Catena Zapata, in the winery as a winemaker. In addition to authoring two books, Laura splits her time between Mendoza and San Francisco where she practices Emergency Medicine. One of Laura’s many passions is to learn more about high altitude viticulture, the vineyard soil microbiome and wine ageability. In the struggle for female equality in the wine business, Laura said, “There is no male equality either.” As she has witnessed in her winery, “If a man says he needs to go home because his child is ill or he has to make dinner, the boss will respond with ‘Where’s your wife?’ If a woman asks the same thing, it is accepted. There is such a long road still ahead for both women and men. But we are coming from a place of progress and I’m very excited about the future.” Bodegas CARO, CARO 2017 To learn about the collaboration between the Catena family and Domaines Barons de Rothschild that birthed CARO, please read my previous story. Two Cultures + Two Estates = Elegant Wines http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2020/01/two-cultures-two-estates-elegant-wines.html This wine is a blend of 74% Malbec and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Malbec softens the Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a little bitter. Grapes are selected and hand-harvested from the best blocks of the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels from Lafite’s cooperage. Aromas of rich red fruit, berries, baking spice and violet segue onto the palate with dark cherry, black raspberry and a hint of dark chocolate on a long finish. Smooth tannins and refreshing acidity are beautifully balanced. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $70.99 Anne Trimbach, Export Manager for Trimbach Alsace, France Anne is the 13th generation and the first woman to “be on the scene” in her family’s winery situated in Alsace, France. Anne grew up in the winery and knew from an early age that she would work there. Her great uncle expressed doubts about her getting into the business. He said, “Oh really, you want to work with us? But you are a woman and how will you manage this? One day you’ll want to have babies.” Anne expressed in relating this story, “I had to prove I was able to.” Her journey involved studying economics in Strasbourg, then spending three years in Dijon. She completed her master’s degree in Burgundy and then interned with a beverage distributor. Anne moved back to Alsace in 2008 and began to formally work as a export manager and Trimbach ambassador. Anne also introduced and developed a presence on social media for the winery. She said, “ The world of wine is about sharing and catching the eye of people. We share our passion for wine and people through videos.” Trimbach “Réserve” Riesling 2017 This is 100% Riesling. Grapes for the Réserve are sourced from old vineyards in Ribeauvillé and surrounding villages with vines 45 to 50 years old. Due to the complexity of the terroir here, some of the finest wines are produced. Anne noted that because of climate change “we are seeing early harvests due to temperatures rising.” Beautiful aromas of floral, peach, grapefruit and a hint of diesel set the stage for this classic. dry Riesling. The palate offers nectarine, green apple, lemon and minerality. This is a vibrant and fresh wine with good aging potential. Alcohol: 13% SRP: 34.99 Laure Colombo, Winemaker at Jean-Luc Colombo Rhône Valley, France Laure is second-generation and grew up in the small village of Cornas where the vineyards were her playground. Laure said, “I escaped the village and didn’t plan to work in wine, I just wanted to live in big cities. I was anxious to leave and travel.” And so she did. After studying commerce at the University of Lille, she traveled to Florida and worked at Disney World Epcot Food & Wine Festival. Laure also worked as a sommeliers assistant at Alain Ducasse’s restaurant in NYC and traveled to New Delhi, India to work with the Grover vineyard. And the list goes on! When she returned to France, Laure interned at Château Haut-Brion while studying for a bachelor’s degree in Viticulture and Oenology in Bordeaux. She then went on to receive her master’s degree in Oenology from the University of Montpellier. Laure said, “By traveling around the world, I learned my roots and I wanted to come back. I finally joined my family in 2010 and little by little I learned to work with the family.” She has been working alongside her parents ever since. For a glimpse and background of Laure’s parents and where she grew up, please click on the link below to read my story. A Hidden Treasure - The WineKnitter http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2019/03/day-713-a-hidden-treasure.html Jean-Luc Colombo Saint-Peray AOC “La BelleDe Mai” 2018 This wine is a blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Marsanne. Grapes are hand-harvested from a single vineyard of the oldest part of this small 10-hectare appellation. Laure said, “The grapes are co-planted, harvested and vinified together. The ratio changes from year to year, but normally one half to two-thirds of the Roussane is used in the blend.” Grapes are fermented in oak barrels and the wine is aged on the lees for six months. This is a rich and complex wine with enticing aromas of floral, pear and grapefruit. The palate offers honeysuckle, apricot, peach, a hint of vanilla and citrus zest on the finish. Creamy texture and fresh acidity sate the palate. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $29.99 Alessia Collauto, Travaglini Gattinara, Italy Alessia is the fifth-generation of the Travaglini wine family. “Fourth-generation, Cinzia Travaglini, now runs the estate, along with her husband Massimo Collauto, chief winemaker. Their efforts, like the generations before them, have made Travaglini one of Italy’s most recognizable wines and the #1 selling Gattinara in the world. Their children, Alessia and Carolina, are currently involved in the winery, and will be the next generation to run the estate.” Alessia has a degree in Economics and Business Management. She also received her Certificate of Sommelier in 2017. She spends time tending the vines at Travaglini, working in the cellar with her family and also participates in the administration, marketing, sales and promotion of their wines. Alessia stated, “My parents introduced me to the secrets of the vines and situations of everyday business and little by little transferred to my sister and me the passion for wine.” Alessia said that the experience of being a sommelier made her curious not only to open her mind and try the wines but she also said, “Most importantly it made me curious about the vinification of the wine and the stories behind the wine.” Travaglini Gattinara DOCG 2016 This wine is 100% Nebbiolo and is Travaglini’s flagship wine. The small appellation of Gattinara DOCG is known for its rare soil that produces grapes with a unique flavor profile, high acidity and tannins. Alessia said, “The complexity of this wine comes basically from the rocks. Although the wine is complex, it tastes very delicate on the palate.” The wine is aged for three years, two of which age in used Slavonian oak casks. The wine rests for three months in bottle Lovely aromas of rose petals, berries, fennel, baking spice and pepper prep the palate for a rich and inviting wine. Notes of rose, cherries, raspberry, cinnamon, earth and minerality tease the palate. I love the complexity of this wine in addition to its freshness and tannins that talk.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $33.99 It was a pleasure and honor to be a part of this discussion and tasting. I loved their stories, anecdotes and, above all, the inspiration and path that they are creating for more women to enter the wine industry! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Today’s post is short, but I felt that this wine deserved extra attention rather than just giving a “shout out” on social media. If you haven’t yet read my story, “Two Cultures + Two Estates = Elegant Wines”, then please click on the link below to catch up and learn about Bodegas Caro and its very special wines. Trust me, it’s worth the four-minute read! http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2020/01/two-cultures-two-estates-elegant-wines.html The first vintage that was born out of the collaboration between the Catena family and Domaines Barons de Rothschild was Bodegas CARO 2000. It’s success led to two more wines that I reviewed in the above story. After tasting and reviewing Amancaya and Aruma Malbec, I was delighted to recently receive a bottle of CARO and I must say, it was worth the wait! Bodegas CARO 2016 is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Malbec. Grapes are selected and hand-harvested from the best blocks of the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. This wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels from Lafite’s cooperage. It is a beautifully structured wine with deep ruby tones and aromas of dark berries, plum, spice and a hint of cedar. It takes your palate on a happy journey with layers of juicy dark fruit, plum, baking spice, anise and a lingering taste of sour cherry on a long finish. It is a perfect balance of acidity and tannins and it will only get better with age. And I look forward to tasting this vintage again in a few years. Serve with hearty meat dishes, stews and seared tuna.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $64.99 Bodegas Caro wines are a stunning blend of two cultures, history and tradition that are poured into every bottle of wine produced. They are simply elegant! Until next time! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It began in 1999 with the birth of a partnership between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and the Catena family of Mendoza. Their mission was to produce a wine that would combine French and Argentine cultures. Baron Eric de Rothschild described it as, “An association between two cultures, two families and two noble grapes.” Bodegas Caro was born and the two signature grapes of each producer, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon became the focus of their endeavors. Together, these families have combined their knowledge and expertise to produce elegant wines. The Catena family, who has produced wine for four generations, contributed their knowledge of the high altitude terroirs of the Mendoza region and to find the best vineyards for Malbec. Domaines Barons de Rothschild contributed their knowledge and centuries-old skills in growing, vinifying and aging Cabernet Sauvignon. DBR also imparted the art of blending different grape varieties to produce one great wine. The first vintage in 2000, called CARO, was a success and led to the creation of Amancaya in 2003, a Malbec dominated cuvée. Aruma Malbec (100%) was introduced with the 2010 vintage. The vineyards are located in two zones in Mendoza. The first zone is in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú. This zone is noted to be among the best in Argentina for making wines. The altitude range is 2625 ft. to 2953 ft. with average temperatures of 46 to 73 degrees. The second zone is in the Uco Valley in Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The altitude range is 3280 ft. to 5250 ft. with average temperatures of 44 degrees to 71 degrees. The high elevations in these zones are beneficial to the grapes due to the high daytime temperatures and cooler nights. This diurnal temperature variation contributes to slowing the ripening process, extending the growing season and allowing the grapes time to produce balanced sugar and acidity. All of the grapes are handpicked and hand-sorted before de-stemming and vinification to make sure that only the best grapes are used. Each vintage is aged in oak barrels, 18 months for CARO and 12 months for Amancaya. Most of the barrels are made at the DBR’s cooperage in Bordeaux. Aruma Malbec is aged in tanks to preserve the fruit-driven style and to allow the varietal characteristics of the grape to come through. Overseeing all of this is Philippe Rolet, Estate Manager and winemaker who joined Bodegas Caro in January 2019. Philippe was born in Jura, France into a family-owned winery, Domaine Rolet. He began his career at Domaine William Fèvre and went on to work with many prestigious wineries in Argentina, Chile and France before becoming estate manager for Bodegas Caro. I asked Philippe what his biggest challenge was in the vineyards and presumed he might speak about springtime frost and summertime hail that are common threats in high altitude vineyards. I was not expecting the following answer! "The biggest challenge we face in the vineyard is living together with ants. The vineyards in Mendoza are located in a semi-desert climate. In this environment, apart from vineyards, leaves are rare. Our vineyards are in transition for organic management. We do not use pesticides or insecticides. Therefore, ants can be very damaging, destroying young shoots and leaves in springtime, thus, reducing crops and also killing vines. Ants are part of our biodiversity. Our actual challenge is offering them something more appetizing than our vine leaves. Native flowers appear as a good alternative. We actually investigated the right native species to plant within our vineyards." After doing a little reading, I learned that ants are indeed an issue in many vineyards of Argentina. I am quite happy that Philippe and his team were able to solve their ant problem and my palate is especially pleased. I recently had the opportunity to taste two of the estate wines and I was duly impressed by their quality and expression. Bodegas Caro Amancaya Reserve Red Blend 2017
This is a blend of 72% Malbec and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were handpicked from vines over 30 years old. Aging took place for 12 months with 50% in French oak barrels and 50% in concrete vats. This ruby-red wine is filled with aromas of cherry, raspberry and baking spice. The palate is layered with lush fruit of ripe cherries and plum followed by spice and slight oak integration. A hint of cocoa and anise linger on the finish with soft tannins. This is a beautiful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that clearly shows off the marriage of Argentinian and Bordeaux styles. This wine is named after Amancaya, a mountain flower that grows in the Andes. Alcohol: 14% SRP $70.99 Bodegas Caro Aruma Malbec 2017 This wine is 100% Malbec. As previously noted, the grapes are handpicked and the wine is aged in tanks. The color is dark ruby with intense aromas of floral, red fruit and a hint of herbs. An array of juicy and fruit-driven flavors greet the palate with cherry, blackberry and spice. This is a graceful wine with a harmonious balance between tannins, acidity and alcohol. “Aruma” means “night” in the Quechua language. The name was chosen for “the intense darkness of the nights in the Andes and the pure mountain air that give the wines the rich, authentic character of their terroir.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $70.99 Both wines will pair well with appetizers, grilled meat, stews, hearty pasta and fatty fish such as grilled tuna. These wines are a treat to drink and priced well. I’m looking forward to tasting CARO in the next few weeks and sharing my thoughts with you. Until then… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
Categories
All
|