The shortest day of the year is finally behind us, but winter has officially begun. Although I enjoy the beauty of a winter wonderland, I’m not a fan of the slush, ice, and frigid weather accompanying it. So, let’s chase the winter blues away with some white wines and dream of tropical beaches and warmer weather! Trenel Mâcon Villages AOP 2021 Maison Trenel was founded in 1928 by Henri Claudius Trénel and is in the heart of the South Burgundy and Beaujolais wine regions. The grapes for this 100% Chardonnay are sourced from vineyards in Mâcon and 26 villages in the area. The Mâcon Villages Trénel is produced on parcels facing south and southeast in Charnay-lès-Mâcon and Viré. This blend of different clayey soils with variable limestone ratio bestows the right balance on the wine, rich and subtle at the same time. Nose: White flowers, citrus, and apple. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with a rich mouthfeel, crisp acidity, and a refreshing finish of lingering citrus notes. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28.99 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo, DOCG 2020 Feudi di San Gregorio was established in 1986 by the Capaldo family and is one of Campania’s premier wine estates, located in southern Italy, near Mount Vesuvius in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico within the Irpinia DOC. This wine is made with 100% Greco, a white grape variety grown mainly in Campania. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the chalky soils of Tufo, contributing to the wine’s minerality, freshness, and persistence. Nose: Beautiful floral notes, melon, citrus, and herbs. Palate: Lush notes of pink grapefruit, juicy pear, and lively acidity, with a touch of mint and balsamic mingling with the fruit on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28 Oberon Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Oberon Wines is part of the Michael Mondavi Family portfolio. Tony Coltrin is the winemaker for Oberon Wines and is celebrating 50-plus harvests. Having the advantage of being a lifelong resident of Napa, Tony knows every expression of the valley and, specifically, which sub-zones produce Bordeaux grapes that are exceptional. His lifelong relationships with growers throughout Napa Valley are the very essence of Oberon’s quality and consistency. Tony selects top-quality fruit year after year from the finest wine-growing regions throughout Napa. This wine is a blend of 81% Sauvignon Blanc and 19% Sauvignon Musqué. The grapes are sourced from the warm Pope Valley and cool Carneros appellations. Both cold tank fermentation and 14% barrel fermentation are used to maximize the overall fruit expression. “The cold-fermentation in-tank helps us maintain the pureness of fruit and aromatics, and barrel fermentation adds a subtle creaminess and length.” Nose: Notes of tropical fruit, apple, minerality, and herbs. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with white stone fruit, honeydew, and nice acidity. Minerality and citrus linger on the finish. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $20 Mandrarossa Urra Di Mare, DOC 2021 Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli, located in Menfi, Sicily, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand, which emerged in 1999. This wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc sourced from vineyards that stretch along south and southwest-facing hills with clay and limestone soils, “a wine created from sea breezes.” 2010 was the first vintage for this wine. Nose: Floral, citrus, white stone fruit, and a hint of herbs. Palate: This refreshing wine is layered with citrus, apricot, peach, herbal notes, crisp acidity, sapidity, and minerality. Apricots linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 11.5% SRP: $19.99 Pairing Suggestions Enjoy the above wines as an aperitif or serve with raw fish, grilled fish, salads, sushi, white meats, light pasta dishes, and cheese platters. These white wines will drink beautifully all year long. And, if you’re missing warmer weather during the winter months, a glass of white wine and a little imagination can transport you anywhere! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Whenever I travel to Sicily, the anticipation and thrill of adventure always sends me to the moon and beyond. And once I arrive, I am never disappointed! In early September, my latest trip took me to the island’s eastern side to explore Mount Etna, where I savored the unique wines from grapes grown on this very active volcano! Through the gracious invitation of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC, I and many wine writers worldwide participated in a three-day event called #EtnaDays. It was an immersion of walk-around tastings, an Etna appellation masterclass, spending time with producers, hiking through vineyards, enjoying the local cuisine, and ending the trip with a fabulous beach party. Slide show and video credits: Penny Weiss Mount Etna Mount Etna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the east coast of Sicily, just north of Catania. It is the largest active volcano in Europe, on the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is majestic, mesmerizing, and quite the scene-stealer! Whether emitting gentle wisps, billowing smoke, or bursts of fire, Mount Etna makes its presence known 24/7! Mount Etna is believed to be over 500,000 years old. Its shape is ever-changing due to its constant activity of ash emission, lava flow, and the creation of new craters. Mount Etna is 3,300 meters (10,826.77 ft) above sea level and 45 kilometers (about 28 miles) in diameter. The vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters (1312 ft and 2624 ft) above sea level but can reach up to 1000 meters. (3280ft) The steep, terraced slopes can be challenging, hard to navigate, and tiring to work with. Most of the harvesting has to be done by hand. Due to these extreme conditions, the term “heroic viticulture” was born. Below is a screenshot from an app I used on this trip of how high in altitude I was while visiting one of the vineyards. One might ask how growing grapes on an active volcano is possible. It is a little daunting, but the volcanic wines produced here are noteworthy! A few years ago, I had lunch with Patricia Tóth, head winemaker at Planeta, who specializes in producing Etna wines. Patricia also happens to live on Mount Etna. I asked her if living and working on an active volcano was worrisome. Patricia said, “We are happier when there are small eruptions as opposed to being silent. If it were silent, the pressure would start to build, and that is not good.” According to the Consorzio, “The surface that falls within the Etna DOC is just under 1.200 hectares.” The production area covers the northern, eastern, southeastern, and southwestern slopes of the volcano and is located in the territories of 20 municipalities, all in the province of Catania. Below is a map of the slopes in the shape of a semicircle and the territories. There is much diversity in the soil and climate conditions from slope to slope, affecting grape growing on Mount Etna. This leads to a different outcome for the wine when only a few hundred meters separate one production plot from another. Each slope varies in temperature and soil. The volcanic soil can be pebbly and gravelly, sandy or chalky, with lots of minerals and nutrients. The high elevation and exposure to the hot sun with cool Mediterranean breezes and large temperature swings between day and night add to the complexity of the grapes’ characteristics. The microclimate and terroir on each side of the mountain can define what grapes are planted. With regard to elevation, as one ascends the mountain, volcanic soil tends to be richer and darker from the lava flow. The temperatures vary with Alpine conditions at the top and typical Mediterranean climate descending the mountain. An active volcano providing black volcanic soil, cool climate growing conditions, and plenty of sunshine makes Etna an ideal location for making crisp white and racy red wines. A Brief Description of the slopes from Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Etna DOC The Four Volcanic Slopes The Northern slope has the highest number of producers and the gentlest slopes. The climate is cold but protected by the surrounding mountain ranges of Peloritani and Nebrodi. The most cultivated variety is the red Nerello Mascalese. The Eastern slope overlooks the Ionian Sea and is the most exposed to rain and winds. The bush vines are cultivated on small terraces up to 900 meters above sea level. On the eastern slope, the white grape Carricante is dominant. The South-Eastern slope has several eruptive cones, which are now all extinct. The numerous vineyards are often trained as bush vines (i.e. gobelet vine training), which allows them to be kissed by the sun and sea breezes. The Nerello Mascalese and Carricante varieties grow here in ideal conditions and easily reach perfect ripeness. The South-Western slope is the furthest from the sea and, therefore, is characterized by a strong temperature range. This area has less rain, is beaten by hot winds, and has great solar intensity. The cultivations of the red Nerello Cappuccio and the white Carricante find excellent conditions and can exceed 1000 meters above sea level. The Grapes Nerello Mascalese is an indigenous grape used to produce red, rosé, and sparkling wines. It is the most widespread grape variety planted on Mount Etna. The wines made from Nerello Mascalese have a high alcohol content, high level of acidity, ruby color, delicate hints of fruit, minerality, great finesse, medium structure, and good balance. Nerello Cappuccio is an indigenous grape used to produce red, rosé, and sparkling wines. Wines made from Nerello Cappuccio have a low alcohol content and good acidity. Its ruby red color is deeper than that of Nerello Mascalese, with subtle violet tones. The nose shows herbaceous and spicy scents with floral and fruit. The palate offers delicate tannins, freshness, and medium structure. Carricante is an indigenous white grape variety used to produce white wine. Once used as a blend with other grapes, Carricante is now vinified as a single variety and is the main variety in blends. It has lovely aromas of citrus, white flowers, and white stone fruit with lots of minerality on the palate. Catarratto is an indigenous white grape variety that is declining in popularity on Etna. According to the Consorzio, “Today, we tend to distinguish the Catarratto variety according to its clones, which are actually quite different from each other. The two main and most widespread are the Catarratto Bianco Comune and the Catarratto Bianco Lucido. At its best, it carries aromas of citrus and herbs, structure, freshness, and a pleasant mineral aftertaste.” Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC The Etna DOC appellation was established in 1968. Etna wines were among the first in Sicily to obtain a DOC (Denomination of Origin) and one of several oldest in Italy. The Consorzio Tutela Vino Etna DOC was created in January 1994 to enhance and protect Etna wines and its territory. As of this writing, the Consorzio recently released a press bulletin stating they are going to begin steps to obtain the prestigious DOCG recognition, the highest recognition for wines in Italy. (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin.) Francesco Cambria, president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC, said, “We are very happy. This is an important, I would say, historic decision for the entire Etnean territory.” With over 200 members (producers) in the Consorzio, it was a unanimous decision to begin the process. Francesco further commented, “The wish of all the producers of our denomination is that the great work carried out so far and the prestige that the market has now recognized for our wines be definitively legitimized, also through the achievement of the highest step of the pyramid of the denomination certification system.” Some changes to the current production specifications will take place, but the overall borders of the Etna appellation will remain the same. Although I’ve been drinking Etna wines for several years, the pure joy of tasting these wines while on Mount Etna is beyond sublime! I’ll dive deeper into the wines and styles, history, slopes, terroir, and cuisine and visit a few wineries in more Etna articles to come soon. Much to share! Stay tuned! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com I’m feeling nostalgic about my captivating trips to Sicily, and wish I could be there now. So the next best thing is opening a bottle of wine produced in Sicily! I love a wine that fills your senses and can connect you to a particular region and terroir. It’s magical! So, travel with me to Sicily via the nose and palate with these three gems! Donnafugata SurSur 2021 Grillo, Sicilia DOC SurSur is made with 100% Grillo grapes. It is an ancient indigenous variety and one of Sicily’s best-known grapes found throughout western Sicily. It is noted for its citrus flavors, sweetness, and mild acidity. Due to the innovation of winemakers, Grillo has a wide range of styles, from crisp and savory, to structured and mature. Historically, Grillo was used to produce Marsala wine because of the grape’s high sugar levels, making it ideal for producing fortified wines. However, Catarratto has taken the lead in Marsala production. It is interesting to note that in 1848 Grillo became a hybrid of Zbibbo and Catarratto. The grapes for SurSur are harvested from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate Vineyard located in the Southwestern part of Sicily. The wine is aged in tanks for two months and then a minimum of three months in bottle before release. I have reviewed several vintages of SurSur, and it never disappoints. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, melon, citrus, and a hint of basil. Palate: Fresh and lively with notes of peach, pear, tropical fruit, and a touch of herbs. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24.99 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with appetizers, seafood, paninis, and salads. To quote Donnafugata, “SurSur is a fresh and fruity Grillo with a young twist.” Mandrarossa Cartagho 2018 Sicilia DOC Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli, located in Menfi, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand which emerged in 1999. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards in Menfi at 150 meters above sea level in limestone and sandy soils. This wine is aged one year in barrique and then another four months in bottle. I reviewed the 2017 vintage in February 2022, and this 2018 vintage is just as amazing! Nose: Enticing aromas of berries, dark cherry, and a touch of baking spice and pepper. Palate: Blackberries, ripe cherry, spice, with a touch of plum, dates, and dark chocolate. It is fresh, with good acidy, soft, ripe tannins and subtle minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25.99 Pairing suggestions: Aged cheese, beef stew, seared tuna, pasta, or game. Vecchioflorio Marsala Superiore DOC 2018 Cantine Florio produces this fortified wine. Marsala wine is made exclusively in and around Marsala, a town in the province of Trapani in the westernmost part of Sicily. Although Marsala is commonly known as a cooking wine that enhances many recipes, a variety of Marsala wines are to be enjoyed as an aperitif or sipped with main courses and desserts. Marsala wines range from dry to sweet. This Marsala is a blend of Grillo and Catarratto grapes and is a sweet wine. One of the secrets of quality Marsala is aging, which is why Vecchioflorio ages in oak barrels of different capacities for at least 24 months and then a minimum of two months in bottle. Nose: Delicious notes of apricots, dried figs, licorice, and a hint of almonds. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with dried fruit, raisins, vanilla, and baking spice that lingers on a long finish. This is a rich and elegant wine. Alcohol: 18% SRP: $14.99 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with medium-aged cheese, green vegetables, endive with goat cheese, smoked meats, or desserts, especially chocolate! Enjoy a glass of these wines and transport you and your palate to Sicily! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com The month of April is ending with her classic “April showers” all weekend long. And we all know what May brings! I’m looking forward to May flowers, warmer weather, spending more time outdoors, and taking the kitchen outside for the grilling season. Just because the warmer months are almost upon us does not mean one has to pack away the red wines along with mittens and boots. On the contrary, red wines are to be enjoyed year-round and are a great accompaniment to many summer dishes. So to kick off the season, I’ve rounded up a selection of six red wines that will pair beautifully with whatever you might have on the grill. The wines range from $13.99 to $25.00 and will not disappoint your palate. Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Crianza 2018 Bodegas Valdemar Winery is located in Oyon, Alava Spain, and has a history of winemaking dating back to 1889. They have 300 hectares of vineyards throughout Rioja and are considered one of the largest estates in Rioja. Grapes for this wine are a blend of 89% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo, and 4% Graciano sourced from estate vineyards in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. The wine is aged in American oak barrels for 17 months. Nose: Fragrant notes of blueberries, cherry, and baking spice. Palate: Juicy dark berries, cherry, vanilla, and earthy. Tannins and acidity are well-balanced, with dark fruit lingering on a long finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $19 Pairing suggestions: Cheese platter, grilled meat, tuna, veggies, pasta, stews, and pizza. Veramonte Pinot Noir 2020 Viñedos Veramonte is an organic estate located at the extreme eastern end of Chile’s Casablanca Valley. The Veramonte vineyards are in both Casablanca Valley and Colchagua Valley. This wine is made with 100% Pinot Noir organic grapes from Casablanca Valley. It is aged for eight months in natural oak. Nose: Red berries, bing cherries, a hint of spice, and earthy. Palate: Strawberry, raspberry, and plum dance on the palate. Fresh with good acidity, silky tannins, and a long, savory finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $13 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat and poultry, risotto, pasta, or seafood salad. Cline Eight Spur Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2020 This California wine is produced by Cline Family Cellars, established in 1982, a family-owned and operated winery. The grapes for this 100% Zinfandel are sourced from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County, one of the oldest growing areas in California. The valley holds the daytime heat, ripening grapes until sundown when cool ocean breezes whistle through the canyon, extending the growing season to increase varietal complexity. The wine is aged in 40% new French oak for 15 months. Nose: Berries, dark cherry, plum, and baking spice with a hint of lavender. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with notes of raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, and vanilla. It is rich, smooth, and well-structured, with sour cherries and vanilla lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25 Pairing suggestions: Grilled anything! BBQ ribs, spicy cuisine, pizza, seared tuna, or roasted leg of lamb. Graffigna Glorious Collection Malbec 2020 Graffigna was established in 1870 when Santiago Graffigna left Italy and arrived in San Juan, Argentina, bringing with him his passion and wine expertise. It is considered one of the oldest wineries in San Juan. Today, Santiago’s vision and spirit are honored with each bottle produced, and care is taken to maintain the quality and character of the grapes. The grapes for this 100% Malbec are sourced from the Uco Valley in Mendoza. 70% was aged in French oak for 12 months, and 30% in concrete and stainless steel vats. Nose: A touch of violet, plum, sour cherry, and baking spice tease the senses. Palate: Concentrated and juicy fruit, with aromas spilling onto the palate. Blackberry and plum linger on the finish, with soft tannins and nice acidity. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $18.99 Pairing suggestions: BBQ, grilled meat and veggies, mushroom risotto, stews, or a charcuterie board. Cantine Ermes Epicentro Nero d’Avola Riserva Sicilia DOC 2018 Cantine Ermes was founded in 1998 in the heart of Belice Valley in Sicily. It is a cooperative “born from the idea of young Italian minds.” They produce wines from Sicily, Veneto, and Puglia, with an impressive 10,592 hectares of vineyards spread across these territories, with the majority of vineyards in Sicily. This wine is 100% Nero d’Avola aged in 500-liter tonneaux for 18 months. Nose: Lovely bouquet of dark fruit, plum, berries, and baking spice. Hints of toasted oak and minerality waft through the fruit. Palate: Aromas continue onto the palate with strawberries, cherry, clove, and pepper. Soft tannins and well-balanced with a rich blackberry jam finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $17 Pairing suggestions: BBQ, grilled meat and fowl, marinated lamb, pasta, stew, or mature cheese. Talosa Rosso Di Montepulciano DOC Toscana 2020 Talosa is a boutique winery with 33 hectares of vineyards in the heart of Montepulciano in Tuscany and has been owned by the Jacorossi family since 1972. Their historic aging cellar dates back to the 16th century, which is in the old town center of Montepulciano, in an underground area between two of the oldest buildings in the city, Palazzo Tarugi and Palazzo Sinatti. The brick passageways contain a series of vaults and niches where the barrels are placed. The grapes for this wine are 85% Sangiovese, Merlot and Canaiolo, 15%. It is aged in stainless steel, tonneaux, and large barrels for a minimum of three months. Nose: Floral, strawberries, blueberries, cherries, and a hint of spice. Palate: Fresh and lively, with notes of plum and sweet cherry, a balsamic undertone, and a touch of spice on the finish. Very nice. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $25 Pairing suggestions: Grilled red and white meat, appetizers, seared tuna, spicy cuisine, or risotto. I hope these wines pique your interest! Below is a delicious recipe for marinated tuna steaks. It is an easy recipe to make and works using the grill, broiler, or a quick sear on the stovetop. I love it! And all of these wines will pair beautifully with it! Marinated Tuna Steaks For The Grill Courtesy of allrecipes.com Ingredients (for four servings)
If you try any of the above wines, please share your thoughts and pairings!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com This month’s Wine & Dine features palate-pleasing treats from Sicily! Valle Dell’Acate is a family-owned company in the heart of southeastern Sicily’s historic Vittoria Classico region, in the Biddini Soprana e Sottana district near Acate. The estate is a picturesque setting surrounded by 200 acres of vineyards, certified as biological with a focus on sustainability. Founded by Giuseppe Jacono at the end of the 19th century, the Jacono family has been active in vine growing and winemaking since Vittoria became Sicily’s epicenter for exporting wine to France during the 1800s. Today the company is run by the dynamic Gaetana Jacono, part of the family’s sixth generation of winemakers. Vittoria is home to Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, the first and only wines with DOCG status in Sicily, established in 2005. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is the pride of the grape growers, winemakers, and bottlers that accomplished the prestigious Protected and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin for the Cerasuolo di Vittoria and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico wines. Cerasuolo means ‘cherry-colored’ in Italian, and the wine is known for its cherry red to violet color with floral and fruity aromas. Only the indigenous grapes of Nero d’Avola and Frappato are allowed in the blend. It is a wine that pairs well with a variety of cuisine. Gaetana said, “The Cerasuolo, for its blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola, is a wine that goes well with more elaborate fish dishes and walks next to the food without overpowering it.” Valle Dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. It is aged 12 months in barrels and tonneaux and then bottle-aged for a minimum of nine months. Nose: Floral, red and dark fruit, berries, spice, and herbs. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with notes of minerality, nice acidity, and smooth tannins. Cherry, strawberry, and vanilla linger on the finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $28,99 Pairing suggestions: Aged cheese, risotto, game, grilled fish, or spicy cuisine. Gaetana created a special tuna entree to pair with this wine. In Gaetana’s words, “Tuna is the Sicilian fish par excellence that we find in the tradition of our cuisine in an infinite variety of recipes. The fresh tuna in Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine sauce with sweet and sour is my special recipe created for Valle dell’Acate. Our winery produces the best native wines of the area. This recipe is a meeting of flavors that unfold in a sweet and sour union of different textures and flavors. The crunchiness and sweetness of the almond combine with the caramelized consistency of onion, accompanying the sea flavor of the freshly seared tuna. Finally, the reduction of Cerasuolo di Vittoria binds all the ingredients like a velvety and spicy drape with hints of fruit. This dish represents the triumph of Sicilian flavors in a light and healthy version.” FRESH TUNA IN CERASUOLO WINE SAUCE WITH SWEET AND SOUR Ingredients (serves four) 2.2 pounds of filet of fresh tuna 1.5 fluid ounces of white vinegar oregano kosher salt 2 white onions a glass of water extra-virgin olive oil For the Syrup 1 pint of Cerasuolo di Vittoria red wine 9 ounces of sugar 1 star anise 1 tablespoon of black pepper 3 cloves 1/2 a cinnamon stick 1 handful of almonds Put the wine over a high flame in a pot with the star anise, black pepper, cloves, and cinnamon stick. Once the wine begins to boil, lower the flame until it reaches a temperature of 220° Fahrenheit (using a thermometer – it will take approximately 30 minutes). Turn the flame off. Slice the onion thinly and sauté in a covered frying pan at high heat with a bit of olive oil. Add two tablespoons of sugar and bathe with the vinegar when the onion turns a bit golden in color, then lower the flame. Salt the water and cover the onions with it. When the onion has begun to shrivel, take the cover off the frying pan and cook until the water has virtually evaporated. Sprinkle the tuna with the oregano and sear in a frying pan with a little olive oil, one minute per side. Season with a bit of salt. Pour the syrup onto a platter, place the tuna on top, and finish the dish with the onion and almonds, which have been toasted in their skins and chopped, not too finely. Enjoy!
Until next time… Saluti e buon appetito! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Daylight savings has begun, and spring is just around the corner! As a rule, my mood dictates what wine to open, not the weather. And as I’ve mentioned many times in articles I’ve written, I’m not a “seasonal” wine drinker. I enjoy red, white, and rosé all year round. But of late, I’ve been looking forward to sitting outside amongst the budding trees, being serenaded by the birds, enjoying the scent of blooming lilacs, watching the sunset, and sipping a white or rosé wine! Pure bliss! And as much as I love all the seasons, I have a soft spot for spring because it is the season of renewal. And as Gustav Mahler, the composer, said, “Spring won’t let me stay in this house any longer! I must get out and breathe the air deeply again!” So without further ado, here are three white and three rosé wines to kick off the spring season and to enjoy while embracing the longer days and Mother Nature’s gift of renewal. Hat Strap Chardonnay, Los Carneros AVA 2021 This California wine is produced by Cline Family Cellars, established in 1982, a family-owned and operated winery. The grapes for this 100% Chardonnay are sourced from the Cline family’s J. Poppe sustainably farmed vineyard, the oldest Sonoma vineyard on the winery’s estate. Grapes are fermented in a mixture of stainless tanks and French oak barrels. The wine is aged for ten months in 35% new French oak barrels, 35% in neutral barrels, and the rest in stainless. Nose: Sweet apples, white stone fruit, tropical notes, and a hint of lemon. Palate: Juicy peach, pineapple, a hint of herbs and spice with a creamy mouthfeel, and lively acidity balanced with a savory finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25.00 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with salads, light pasta, grilled seafood, or roasted chicken and veggies. Herdade Do Esporão Monte Velho Rosé 2021 Herdade Do Esporão, whose history dates back over 750 years, has vineyards located in the Alentejo wine region in the southern half of Portugal. Monte Velho means “old mound.” and refers to a high point on Herdade Do Esporão estate capped by the ancient square fortress depicted on the label. Blending is a significant part of wine production in Alentejo, and this rosé is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Tinta Caiada, Syrah, Trincadeira, and Arinto, a white grape. The wine is certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Nose: Floral, red berries, and pomegranate. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with a nice balance of fruit and acidity. This wine is fresh and lively and is an easy sipper to enjoy while watching the sunset! Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $12 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif, or serve with charcuterie or light fare. Mandrarossa Grillo Sicilia DOC 2021 Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli, located in Menfi, Sicily, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand, which emerged in 1999. This wine is 100% Grillo, a grape well-suited to Sicily’s hot, dry climate. It is a light and easy-drinking wine. Nose: Floral, stone fruit, lemon zest, herbs, and pear. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with citrus, vibrant acidity, salinity, and minerality. Alcohol: 13% SRP: 15 Euros (may not be available in the US) Pairing suggestions: Fresh ricotta, grilled veggies, seafood pasta, and grilled swordfish. Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore Rosato DOC 2021 Masciarelli Tenute Agricole, a family-owned winery, was founded in 1981. They have 350 hectares of vineyards located in all four provinces of Abruzzo, Italy. They are committed to sustainability in the vineyards as well as the winery. This rosé is 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, with grapes sourced from a single vineyard of five hectares. Nose: Intense aromas of floral, red berries, cherry, and a hint of citrus. Palate: A juicy and dry wine with strawberry, raspberry, vibrant acidity, a creamy mouthfeel, a touch of herbs, a hint of pomegranate, and a long finish. I love this wine! Alcohol: 14% SRP: $21 Pairing suggestions: Serve as an aperitif, or pair with fish, risotto, fowl, veggie pasta, or seared tuna. CRIOS Torrontés 2021 Susana Balbo is the founder and owner of Susana Balbo Wines, located in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, in western Argentina, close to the Andes Mountains. Susana produces four brands of wine that include CRIOS. The CRIOS brand was created as a tribute to her son and daughter. CRIOS in Spanish means “offspring.” It is 100% Torrontés and hand-harvested from vineyards in Cafayete (Salta) and Uco Valley (Mendoza) regions at an elevation of 5,600 ft. Nose: Floral, pear, citrus, and white stone fruit. Palate: Fresh and lively with green apple, citrus, pear, crisp acidity, and minerality. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with light pasta, seafood, salads, or Asian cuisine. Château D’Esclans Rosé Côtes de Provence 2020 Château d’Esclans is located in the heart of Provence, France. Sacha Lichine purchased this magical estate in 2006 with a determination to create the greatest rosés in the world. The Cháteau d’Esclans is the estate wine made with Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino), sourced from the estate’s vineyard. Vinification takes place in both stainless steel and barrels, adding to the wine’s freshness and complexity. Nose: Floral, strawberry, vanilla, and hints of stone fruit. Palate: Smooth, creamy, rich, and fresh, with berry, pear, minerality, sweet spice, and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $60 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with charcuterie, salads, grilled veggies, quiche, goat cheese, smoked salmon, or sushi. Winter or spring? I am more than ready to step into the photo on the right! Photo credits: Penny Weiss Happy sipping!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Beginning with October and every month to follow, I will feature one wine and a pairing suggestion and recipe from the wine producer or winemaker. To get the ball rolling, I have two winners this month, both from Italy. San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2017 San Felice estate is located in the heart of Chianti Classico in the commune of Castelnuovo Beradenga. With over 140 hectares of vineyards, 80% is devoted to Sangiovese, which is at the heart of their production. Their presence extends to the prestigious terroirs of Montalcino and Bolgheri as well. This wine is made with 80% Sangiovese, sourced from the estate’s top vineyards. The other 20% is a blend of native Tuscan varieties such as Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo, and Mazzese. The wine is aged 24 months, 50% in large 60-100-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks and 50% in 225- and 500-liter French oak barriques. It is then aged in bottle for eight months. Nose: Floral, juicy fruit, sour cherries, smoky wood, herbs, and spice. Palate: A beautiful and expressive wine with notes of plum, dark berries, and spice fused with elegance and subtlety and balanced with lush tannins and acidity. Hints of vanilla and sour cherry linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $38.99 Pairing Suggestions: Wild game, grilled meat, aged cheese, pasta, truffle risotto, or sip with a chocolate dessert. Winemaker Leonardo Bellaccini suggests the following recipe to pair with the wine, prepared by Borgo San Felice Executive Chef Juan Quintero. MACARONI, BEURRE NOISETTE, MUSSELS, LAMB AND ANISE Time: 20 minutes Ingredients for four servings: Sauce 100g (3.5 oz) unsalted butter (for the beurre noisette or brown butter) 120g (4.2 oz) cleaned mussels (without the shell) 100ml (3.38 fl oz) of white wine 4 garlic cloves 2 tablespoons of anise seeds 100 ml (3.38 fl oz) of mussel water Garnish 160g (5.6 oz) Fatless lamb meat (loin) 2 Nori seaweed sheets 50ml (1.6 fl oz) olive oil Black pepper 300g (10.5 oz) High Quality “maccheroncini” (pasta) Preparation Open the mussels in a pan with white wine, garlic, and parsley. Cover, and after a couple of minutes, they will be open. Turn off the heat and remove the shell of the mussels and strain its water, preserving it. Separately melt the butter and let it cook until it turns brown; add the mussel water so the butter doesn’t get burned. Add the anise and the mussels, and turn off the heat. Blend until smooth. There is no need to add salt because the mussel water is salty enough. Cook the pasta in plenty of salted water, drain and then add to the cream of butter. For serving, chop the lamb meat like a classic tartare, then season with salt, oil, and pepper, and cover with nori seaweed. On the base of the plate, arrange the lamb with seaweed, and finally, serve the pasta on top. Donnafugata Floramundi Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2020 Donnafugata has five estates throughout Sicily, with one in Vittoria located in southeastern Sicily. It is in this special region where Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is produced. It is considered one of the most noteworthy wines produced in Sicily and the only wine in Sicily with a DOCG status! The indigenous grapes Nero d’Avola and Frappato are the only varieties allowed in the blend. Nose: Intense floral aromas envelop the senses with notes of violet, cherry, red berries, and spice that segue onto the palate. Palate: This is a fresh and juicy wine with personality. Hints of rose, strawberry, and spice linger on the finish. Soft tannins and a crisp finish add to the entertainment. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $30 Pairing Suggestions: Mature cheese, risotto, seared tuna, and calamari. Donnafugata suggests pairing the following recipe with Floramundi. Swordfish with Citrus Fruit and Pistachios
Time: 20 minutes Difficulty: Intermediate Ingredients for four servings: 4 swordfish steaks, about 200 g (7 oz) each 1 bunch of wild fennel 2 cloves of garlic 1 chili pepper a handful of sultana raisins, another of pistachios orange juice and rind juice of one lemon 1 glass of white wine 0-type flour, butter Instructions Flour the swordfish steaks. In a slightly buttered pan, sauté the garlic and chili pepper. As soon as the garlic browns, remove it. Add the floured fish and sauté. Then add the white wine, sultana raisins, wild fennel, and minced orange peel. As soon as the wine evaporates, add the orange and lemon juice and a pinch of crushed pistachios. Cover and continue cooking; if necessary, add citrus juice. Serve with the reduced sauce and a handful of pistachios covering the fish, garnishing the platter with two orange slices. Enjoy! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Join me on a road trip to visit four unique wineries along the southeastern stretch of Sicily. It is an expanse of land filled with beautiful landscapes, historic sites, ancient ruins, and distinctive terroir that lured these wineries here. And, of course, there is lots of wine and mouthwatering local cuisine to taste! My last article about Sicily covered Vittoria DOCG, the final stop on my southeastern wine tour. http://thewineknitter.com/the-journal/a-taste-of-vittoria Today, we will go back to the beginning of the tour with Catania as our starting point. The sea to the east and the mountains to the west were a constant companion as we traversed the terrain, making our way south. On our way to Siracusa, we stopped for a seaside lunch at Stravento Ristorante Sul Mare in the hamlet of Brucoli in Augusta by the Ionian Sea. Here is a sampling of the local cuisine we enjoyed. (All slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss) Having sated our palates, we continued on our journey south to explore a few wineries. Peter Vinding-Diers Montecarubbo Winery Montecarrubo is a small 5-hectare estate situated on the remains of an inactive volcano that exploded approximately two million years ago. It is near the town of Melilli, with breathtaking views overlooking the Ionian Sea and the bay of Augusta, between Catania and Siracusa. Peter and Susie Vinding-Diers came to Sicily seeking unusual and serious terroir to plant vineyards. Peter’s extensive experience as a winemaker has taken him to places such as South Africa, Bordeaux, Brazil, Spain, Chile, and Hungry, always leaving his mark as a talented winemaker and innovator. And now, he and his wife are in Sicily making Syrah! Yes, I said Syrah. Peter said, “I tried making Nero d’Avola, but it doesn’t interest me. I’m here to make Syrah. The mutations of Syrah here are endless, and I wanted something more precise.” After finding the perfect setting, the winery was established in 2005. At the time of purchase, the land was just grass, stone, and old lava pieces. Once Peter began bulldozing the land, he discovered a “beautiful profile of perfect soils with different layers and a top layer of coral reef.” He described it as light sand with fragments of coral reef to the west with deep loamy granulated black subsoil full of oxygen. And to the east, facing the Ionian Sea, it is a former seabed with fossilized sand. “You could call this a paleolithic vineyard.” They planted two vineyards of Syrah in 2010. His wines from these vineyards have been rated among the best examples of Syrah in Italy. Montecarrubo is certified organic. Fermentations are spontaneous with natural yeasts, and the wine is aged in tonneaux with no filtrations. In addition to grape vines, Montecarrubo is also home to 1,300 mature Nocellara Etnea and Nocellara del Belice olive trees. These indigenous varieties, farmed organically, produce excellent organic extra virgin olive oil each autumn. Our visit included a vertical tasting of Vignolo IGT Terre Siciliane 100% Syrah from 2012 through 2021, showing its ability to display fruitiness, depth, and elegance through all the vintages. Dark berries, minerality, soft tannins, and spice were ever present, with the 2017 vintage beginning to show more tertiary flavors. The wines are made in limited quantities and are available in several markets worldwide. So if you can find a bottle, you are in for a treat! Planeta “Buonivini” Winery Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. As seen on the map below, Planeta has six wine estates in five regions spread east to west in Sicily. The first vines were planted at Ulmo in 1985, and by 2015 they established their 6th winery, La Baronia at Capo Milazzo. Today my focus is on their Buonivini Winery in Noto. Planeta founded this estate in 1998. Patricia Toth, responsible for production and enologist at the Etna estate, said, “We moved to Buonivini to make what is the most elegant expression for us of Nero d’Avola and Moscato.” Buonivini has 45 hectares and three vineyards that produce DOC Santa Cecilia (100% Nero d’Avola), Controdanza, DOC (Nero d’Avola and Merlot blend), Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC (100% Moscato Bianco, Moscato di Noto and Passsito di Noto that is made in a sweet and dry version. They also have a small area for Merlot and maintain four varieties of almond trees on seven hectares. The winery is “invisible” and underground. As Calogero Riportella, the estate’s enologist and agronomist said, “The cellar, which was built underground in 2003, preserves the landscape. The cellar also keeps the wines naturally cooler. He added, “We practice biodiversity and sustainability.” Calogero explained that this is the driest and hottest part of Sicily. The Mediterranean and Ionian sea come together and create a light breeze, which is very important for the vineyards. In addition, the soil has a great capacity for water retention, which is essential due to minimal rainfall of two to three times a year. With very white limey soils, it is the ideal terroir for Nero d’Avola and Moscato Bianco. Patricia said, “This is one of the most exciting areas for me, for the soil is comparable to Champagne.” All slideshow photo credits, Penny Weiss, except where noted. Patricia led us through a wine tasting of Buonivini wines, including wines from their other estates, accompanied by a delicious dinner. Santa Cecilia Noto, DOC is their top-of-the-line wine featuring 100% Nero d’Avola. Beautiful and complex. Floral notes with dark juicy fruit, spice, balsamic, and nice acidity. Controdanza Noto DOC is 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Merlot grown in white soils. Dark berries, earthy, baking spice, cherry, and vibrant acidity. Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. It is a dry, crisp, and deliciously aromatic wine with jasmine, citrus, and notes of minerality and the sea. Passito di Noto Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. An explosion of flavor with this “antique” wine. Floral, citrus fruit, apricot, honey, dried fruit, and tropical notes all come together in this complex and elegant wine. All slideshow photo credits Penny Weiss Planeta wines can be found in the USA and abroad. Feudo Maccari Antonio Moretti Cuseri, owner of Tenuta Sette Ponti in Tuscany, visited the Val di Noto in the late 1990s and fell in love with the area. He was smitten by Sicily’s famous Baroque style and the sea’s warm waters. He was so taken that he began a new project and created one of the most exciting viticulture businesses in the area. He has put together 250 hectares of property along the cliffs and beaches of this southernmost area of land in Noto, purchasing pieces of land from various owners, little by little. Maccari is the center of it all; it is here that the vineyards overlook the natural oasis of Vendicari (a nature reserve.) Antonio Moretti Cuseri has focused on native grape varieties like Nero d’Avola, Grillo, and Moscato di Noto, as well as international grapes like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing a fruity elegance and rich minerality to each wine. The first bottle produced at the estate was a 2000 Nero d’Avola. The proximity to the sea and the limestone-rich soil make this area perfect for quality winemaking, giving the grapes unique characteristics. The vineyards overlook the Ionian Sea and the natural oasis of Vendìcari and benefit from constant ventilation, which keeps the grape bunches healthy, so they are never stressed from the excessive heat. Only organic farming is practiced; they head-train all their vines to protect the grapes from the hot sun. The wood for aging is eclectic. Barriques are from France, and tonne and chestnut barrels are from Tuscany. The only white grape they work with is Grillo, and there are several interesting interpretations, such as Volé Mosso Bianco, fermented in small stainless steel vats that are temperature controlled and then left to slowly re-ferment at low temperatures. It is bottled with a slight residue of natural carbon dioxide and aged in bottle for three months. Family And Friends Grillo goes through temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration, partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for about 20 days and then aged partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for at least six months and another in bottle for six months. They are exciting wines to drink! As you can see from the photos below, we tasted a lot of wine. Feudo Maccari’s red wines are impressive, from Neré, a light and fresh Nero d’Avola aged in stainless steel to, Saia, a Nero d’Avola aged in small oak barrels for 12-14 months that is round and elegant. In addition, they produce noteworthy Syrahs such as Mahâris with rich fruit and minerality. After the tasting, my palate was singing! Slideshow photos credit: Penny Weiss Tenute Zisola The Mazzei family is no stranger to fine winemaking; their wine history dates back to the 11th century. For the past 24 generations, the Mazzei family has been producing wines at Castello di Fonterutoli in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. I had the pleasure of tasting these wines last year with Giovanni Mazzei, who represents the 25th generation. The Mazzei family made their debut in Sicily in 2003 when they established Tenute Zisola. It is a “stone’s throw” from Noto, where they own 52 hectares of land that surrounds three traditional farmhouses called bagli. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss In addition to 22 hectares of grape vines, they cultivate olives, citrus fruits, and almonds. They are in the process of converting to organic production, which should be completed and certified by 2023. Dario Pennino, the export manager, said, “We specialize in viticulture. When the grape harvest is done, we tend to the orchards. What is important is the connection with terroir.” Nero d’Avola is the principal grape grown here, but they also produce small quantities of Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grillo, and Catarratto. Like many other wineries in the southeast, the sea breezes from the nearby coast keep the vineyards cool from severe heat. The soils are calcareous, medium textured, and rich in gravel which contribute to minerality, freshness, and elegance in the wines. They have a small but efficient winery with vinification in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and approximately 350 oak barrels in which the wines are aged. We sampled wine while gazing out over a stunning vista. It was a small hike to get there, but well worth it. Francesco Loi, a 24-year-old enologist who guided us through the tasting, told me he began making wine at 14. The 2021 harvest is his first one with Zisola. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss Zisola produces five wines, four reds, and one white. Their objective in making wine is to “approach it with sensitivity and respect.” One of our hosts said, “It takes time to make good wine. We don’t make coca cola.” Azisa Sicillia DOC 2021 is 100% Grillo. It is aromatic, dry, and fresh, with floral, citrus, white stone fruit, and pleasant minerality. Doppiozeta Noto Rosso DOC 2017 This is Zisola’s hallmark wine made with 100% Nero d’Avola from three unique plots. It was aged in new/used tonne for 16 months. Lush red fruit, cherry, spice, and a hint of mint with nice length with a 20+ year aging potential Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2019 100% Nero d’Avola aged in barrels for ten months. Cherry, red berries, herbal notes with acidity coming through. It is light and fresh. Achilles Syrah Sicilia DOC 2017 This 100% Syrah is aged 15 to 16 months in small French oak barrels. Dark cherry, earthy, smokey notes, and a nice balance of acidity and tannins. Effe Emme Tere Siciliane IGT 2016 is 100% Petit Verdot and is aged for 16 months in small french oak barrels. An intense wine that is very earthy with dark fruit, cherry, blackberry, spice, and a hint of dark chocolate. We continued to taste wine while enjoying a delicious lunch that Zisola prepared. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss The wines I tasted on my tour of the southeast paired beautifully with all the local cuisine and specialty dishes. These versatile and expressive wines reflect the terroir, dedication, and love of this unique area of Sicily. They are a treat for the palate and soul. And I understand now the lure that beckons wine producers to come here.
I always say, “There is nothing better than pouring a part of Sicily into a wine glass.” Of course, I highly recommend taking a first-hand tour of this magical island! Until next time, Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com On a recent trip to Sicily, I had the opportunity to explore the wine regions in the Southeastern part of the island, including a special visit to Vittoria. I had not yet been to this area of Sicily and was bursting with curiosity. So, thanks to the gracious invitation of Assovini Sicilia, I happily returned to this magical island. And, as always, my love affair with Sicily continues to grow with each visit! Assovini Sicilia, founded in 1998, is an association of Sicilian winemakers. Their common objective is to promote the quality of Sicilian wine worldwide, giving voice to wine producers, promoting the region, maintaining high-quality viticulture, product quality, ethics, sustainability, and making a more pronounced impression in the marketplace. Currently, 90 wineries throughout Sicily form the association. I could write a book about this trip, with in-depth histories and anecdotes about each of the eight wineries visited as we made our way south to Siracusa, Noto, and Vittoria. However, today my article focuses on Vittoria, explaining why this is such a special part of Sicily and introducing a few of its wineries. Vittoria is a town and commune located in the province of Ragusa in southeastern Sicily. It is an idyllic region with ample sun exposure and beautiful marine breezes emanating from the Mediterranean sea to the south. It is surrounded by the stunning mountains of Erei to the north, the Iblei mountains to the east, and the hills of Caltanissetta province to the west. It is truly mother nature showing off! One can find a variety of breathtaking landscapes, historical and archeological sites, and several UNESCO World Heritage sites. Documentation shows that around the third century BC, an official deed showed the sale of a wine vineyard of one hectare proving evidence of viticulture in the Ragusa region. According to Consortia di Tutela Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, created in 2001, “Vittoria Colonna Henriquez, the woman that founded the city of Vittoria in 1607, promoted wine production granting privileges to wine growers. To celebrate the foundation, in 1607 she gifted 75 settlers a hectare of land if they would cultivate grapes, so favoring the quick enlargement of the vineyard in different sections of the region until the wine production, enhanced by the natural fertility of the soil, became a relevant fact in the whole area.” Documentation also shows that the province of Victoria prospered from the wine trade that began in the 12th century with the exportation of wine on sailing ships from Scoglitti, Vittoria’s trading port, to various parts of Europe. With a variety of fertile soils and microclimate conditions, the stage is set for the vines to prosper. Soils are mostly clay and limestone, with more sandy-loamy soil in the lower-lying vineyards closer to the coast. The vineyards enjoy a Mediterranean climate with cooling sea breezes during the summer and a large diurnal temperature range that helps to promote greater acidity and aromas in the grapes. Vittoria is not only an oasis for viticulture but also for farming produce such as tomatoes, oranges, onions, artichokes, and peppers. Stately olive, almond, and Carrubbo trees can be seen everywhere. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG In addition to the territory’s sweeping history, unique viticulture, and wine production, Vittoria is also home to Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, the first and only wines with DOCG status in Sicily, established in 2005. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is the pride of the grape growers, winemakers, and bottlers that accomplished the prestigious Protected and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin for the Cerasuolo di Vittoria and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico wines. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is considered one of the most notable wines produced in Sicily. Cerasuolo means ‘cherry-colored’ in Italian, and the wine is known for its cherry red to violet color with floral and fruity aromas. Only the indigenous grapes of Nero d’Avola and Frappato are allowed in the blend. Frappato is one of the most ancient Sicilian grape varieties that is believed to have had its origins in the Ragusa province around 300 years ago. Frappato is light-bodied with low tannins and flavors of cherries and strawberries. Nero d’Avola is considered the “king” of Sicilian red grape varieties that has weight and is full-bodied along with a rich texture and dark red fruit flavors. Together, they complement and bring out the best in each other. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG tends to be lighter and fresher, and the Classico DOCG is more structured and has more richness. These wines run the gamut from elegant and fresh to alluring minerality and heady perfume while consistently exhibiting focused fruit and varying degrees of richness. Production Areas and Regulations Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG production is allowed in nine designated municipalities spread out among three provinces. The blend must be 50-70% Nero d”Avola, and 30-50% Frappato Minimum aging is eight months following harvest. Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG production is only allowed in three municipalities, all of which are in Ragusa province and only in the historic Classico production area. Minimum aging is 18 months following harvest. Below is a brief introduction to four wineries and a few tasting notes of Frappato DOC and Cerasuolo Vittoria DOCG from a selection of many expressive wines sampled at each winery. Terre di Giurfo Achille Alessi is owner of Terre di Giurfo and also president of Consortia di Tutela Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. Terre di Giurfo has been in the family since 1872. They have 90 hectares of beautiful ancient land along the Drillo River valley bordering the town of Licodia Eubea and the Iblean Province. Giurfo practices organic farming, which they began ten years ago. Achille said, “70% of Cerasuolo producers are organic. Terre di Giurfo has always used experience and technology to create high-quality agricultural products, especially wine and oil, but always remaining closely linked to the territory’s characteristics.” The vineyards and olive groves are tended with careful cultivation and observation to ensure genuine and quality wine and oil, which are rich in fragrances and flavors typical of the area. In 2003 the cellar was equipped with innovative winemaking and bottling systems. Achille said they only produce wine from grapes they grow. Belsito Vittoria DOC Frappato 2019 This 100% Frappato is aged in stainless steel and is lush with cherry, red berries, and floral aromas. The palate offers juicy notes of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, balanced acidity, and a hint of spice on the finish. Maskarìa Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2017 The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. It is aged in stainless steel tanks with time in the bottle as required by regulations. Beautiful aromas of blackberry, raspberry, and a hint of herbs and spices give way to soft tannins, gentle acidity, freshness, and dark cherry, with red and dark berries lingering on the finish. Valle dell’Acate Valle Dell’Acate is located in the heart of the historic Vittoria Classico region in the Biddini Soprana e Sottana district near Acate. Founded by Giuseppe Jacono at the end of the 19th century, the Jacono family has been active in vine growing and winemaking ever since Vittoria became Sicily’s epicenter for exporting wine to France during the 1800s. Today the company is run by the dynamic Gaetana Jacono, part of the family’s sixth generation of winemakers. The old winery restored to conserve and honor Sicilian culture and traditions, and the new winery are surrounded by 70 hectares of vineyards (certified as biological) with breathtaking views. One can feel the deep history and roots here. There are seven different soils on the estate. And as Gaetana explained, “Each soil differs in color and consistency, contributing varied characteristics to the wines. So, each soil is carefully selected to help characterize the individual grapevine. For example, for the 100% Frappato, the vines are grown in black soil, with white pebbles in the middle, contributing decent acidity and complex perfumes to the wine. I think it’s magic soil! The Frappato used in the Cerasuolo DOCG comes from vineyards with clear red soil. “We need a different Frappato with more structure for the Cerasuolo. Below is a slideshow of the different types of soil.Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato DOC 2021 This 100% Frappato is aged for six months in steel vats and then aged for a minimum of three months in bottle. Fragrant aromas of red fruit, raspberries, floral, and herbs segue onto the palate with mild tannins and freshness. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico 2019 The grapevines planted in dark red soil produce Nero d’Avola, while the vines planted in clear red soil produce Frappato. The blend is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. The wine is aged 12 months in barrels and tonneaux and then bottle-aged for a minimum of nine months. It has aromas of red and dark fruit, berries, spice, floral, and herbs. The palate offers smooth tannins with notes of minerality, nice acidity, cherry, vanilla, and strawberry lingering on the finish. Iri da Iri Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico Cru 2013 One of Gaetana’s dreams is to produce a long-aging Cerasuolo. So, with Carlo Casavecchia, the winemaker, she is making this dream come true. “Finally, after five years of aging in the cellars, we have presented the first vintage of Iri da Iri, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria Cru DOCG, the expression of one sole vineyard, a wine from the Biddine Soprano high plateau. A bottle which confirms our convictions, mine and from the hands of Casavecchia, an offering which demonstrates that Cerasuolo can give a wine of lengthy aging.” The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato aged together in large oak casks for 36 months and then a minimum of 18 months in bottle. It is a complex wine with powerful aromas, including cherries, red fruit, and baking spice. The palate is rich with a velvety mouthfeel, ripe fruit, spice, vanilla, and dark chocolate lingering on a long finish. Feudo Santa Tresa and Azienda Agricola Cortese "Two wineries, but the same heart." Siblings Stefano and Marina Girelli, entrepreneurs from Trentino, own both wineries and vineyards that are within walking distance (8 kilometers) from each other. Feudo Santa Tresa was purchased in 2001, a 50-hectare estate, followed by the purchase of Cortese in 2016, a 14-hectare estate. Although the estates are next door to each other, they each have their distinct microclimate and soils. Both estates use organic and biodiversity management. “In Vittoria, organic isn’t a choice, but a way of life. Our work is not limited simply to following the rules laid down for organic cultivation; it has become our philosophy, our raison d’être, and our way of life.” Cortese Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2017 Sabuci is the hamlet’s name in the Classico historical area where Cortese has been situated since 1930. The blend for this wine is about 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% Frappato. The Nero d’Avola is fermented in open-top barriques, and the Frappato is fermented in terracotta amphorae and remains in contact with the skins for up to 12 months. After blending, the wine is aged for six months, then another three months in bottle. Aromas of cherry, dark berries, baking spice, and cocoa segue onto the palate with hints of toffee. It is well-structured and elegant. Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2020 The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. 15% of the Nero d’Avola is lightly dried on the vine using the Appassimento method. After blending, the wine is aged in oak for about 12 months. Aromas of dark cherries, violets, and raspberry lead to a palate of freshness, juicy fruity, ripe tannins, and a touch of pepper. Donnafugata Donnafugata is a fifth-generation, family-owned company led by siblings Josè and Antonio Rallo. In addition to four other estates located throughout Sicily, Donnafugata has an estate in Vittoria, in the countryside of Acate. There are 36 hectares of vineyards in production, divided into three districts. Nero d’Avola and Frappato are grown in Acate, and the wines produced here fall under the denomination of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Frappato DOC. Their first harvest was in 2016. Tommaso Bellisola, hospitality manager for the Vittoria winery, said, “The grapes are planted in three different soils; sand, stones, and clay, which produces different shades of grapes.” He went on to say, “The valley was once covered by the sea, so one can find oyster shells and limestone in the sandy soil. Sea breezes occur every day. During the morning, the sun hits the ground and warms the soil, the heat then rises, and the sea breeze penetrates the valley, gains speed, refreshes the grapes, and blows away indigenous disease. The direction of the vineyards is east to west, so that the vineyards can benefit from the sea and mountain breezes.” Bell’Assai Vittoria DOC Frappato 2021 This 100% Frappato is aged four months in tanks and over four months in bottle. Fragrant aromas of rose petals with notes of fresh strawberry and raspberry spill onto the palate with soft tannins. Contesa dei Venti Vittoria DOC Nero D’Avola 2020 This 100% Nera d’Avola is aged eight months in tanks and a minimum of seven months in bottle. It is ruby red with cherry, red berries, and floral aromas. The palate has fresh, fruity notes, with strawberries, sweet spice, and soft tannins. Antonio Rallo said, "Contesa dei Venti is a Nero d'Avola trademark, a product of the territory and of our original interpretation. A pure, fresh, harmonious red wine and one with a persuasive tannin, which is the result of the many harvest tastings I have had together with the whole team. We had a lot of fun giving life to this wine, and we are convinced that those looking for pleasant and representative red wines of the territory of origin can find very valid answers within the area of Vittoria". Floramundi Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2020 This wine is aged eight months in tanks and a minimum of seven months in bottle. Beautiful aromas of violets, red fruit, and spice segue onto the palate with cherry, plum, berries, and spice. For a closer look at Donnafugata, please read https://santemagazine.com/the-magic-of-donnafugata/ or click on the menu at right for more articles. Food Pairings Because of their well-balanced acidity, the above wines are incredibly food-friendly and pair well with almost everything from fish-based cuisine to meats, game, and spicy dishes. Gaetana Jocono said, “ These wines are very ancient but also very modern and good for the food of today!” And, of course, enjoying these wines with the local cuisine was bliss! Chilling these wines for about 15 minutes before serving adds another “refreshing” quality, especially on a warm day! The wines are available for purchase most everywhere. So, treat your palate and discover for yourself why Vittoria is so special!
Grazie to all for your warm reception, hospitality, wine, and food! Until next time… Cheers! Penina Most of the content in this article was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com You’re right! I can’t seem to stay away from Sicily! Let’s face it; there is so much to explore! It is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the second-largest wine-producing region in Italy (Puglia being first). Still, Sicily takes first place for the number of vineyards in a region. There is a multitude of wineries with over 70 indigenous grape varieties planted, as well as international varieties. I know I’m being repetitive with information, but my enthusiasm for Sicily keeps erupting. So I will tame the beast for now, and if you seek more information, please check out my “many” articles on Sicily from the menu on the right. Here are three more gems from this magical island to please your palate! Planeta La Segreta Il Rosso Sicilia DOC 2019
Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily. The grapes for this blend are sourced from the Menfi territory, which contains the majority of Planeta’s vineyards on the western side of the island. This wine is 50% Nero d’Avola, 25% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Maturation takes place in stainless steel tanks. Nose: Red berries, spice, and cherry. Palate: A light and fresh wine with aromas continuing onto the palate with herbal notes and smooth tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $15.99 Pairings: Appetizers, light pasta dishes, grilled salmon, chicken, or a veggie burger. Feudo Principi Di Butera Deliella Nero D’Avola, Sicilia DOC 2014 Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located in the southeastern part of Sicily, 10 kilometers from the sea, and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Nero D’Avola is the premier cru produced by this estate, and grapes are sourced from a single vineyard. It is aged for14 months, 90% in barrels and 10% in second-use tonneaux. The wine is then aged for about one year in bottle. Nose: Dark cherry, red fruit, baking spice, and a touch of herbs. Palate: Beautiful and structured with notes of cherry, dark berries, and herbs with a perfect balance of minerality and acidity. A long finish with lingering notes of spice and cherry. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $89.99 Pairings: Appetizers, roasted white meat, stews, glazed duck, seared tuna, or aged cheese. Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito Di Pantelleria Sicilia DOC 2017 The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. This is a naturally sweet wine made with 100% dried Zibibbo grapes sourced from vineyards on Pantelleria Island off the coast of Sicily. Nose: Rich notes of floral, figs, apricots, raisins, and honey. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with a hint of minerality and herbs, creating a gentle sweetness and savory perfection. The bonus is a long and intense finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 for a 375ml bottle Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with cheese and dessert. No doubt I’ll be back soon with more selections to enjoy from Sicily! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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