Join me on a road trip to visit four unique wineries along the southeastern stretch of Sicily. It is an expanse of land filled with beautiful landscapes, historic sites, ancient ruins, and distinctive terroir that lured these wineries here. And, of course, there is lots of wine and mouthwatering local cuisine to taste! My last article about Sicily covered Vittoria DOCG, the final stop on my southeastern wine tour. http://thewineknitter.com/the-journal/a-taste-of-vittoria Today, we will go back to the beginning of the tour with Catania as our starting point. The sea to the east and the mountains to the west were a constant companion as we traversed the terrain, making our way south. On our way to Siracusa, we stopped for a seaside lunch at Stravento Ristorante Sul Mare in the hamlet of Brucoli in Augusta by the Ionian Sea. Here is a sampling of the local cuisine we enjoyed. (All slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss) Having sated our palates, we continued on our journey south to explore a few wineries. Peter Vinding-Diers Montecarubbo Winery Montecarrubo is a small 5-hectare estate situated on the remains of an inactive volcano that exploded approximately two million years ago. It is near the town of Melilli, with breathtaking views overlooking the Ionian Sea and the bay of Augusta, between Catania and Siracusa. Peter and Susie Vinding-Diers came to Sicily seeking unusual and serious terroir to plant vineyards. Peter’s extensive experience as a winemaker has taken him to places such as South Africa, Bordeaux, Brazil, Spain, Chile, and Hungry, always leaving his mark as a talented winemaker and innovator. And now, he and his wife are in Sicily making Syrah! Yes, I said Syrah. Peter said, “I tried making Nero d’Avola, but it doesn’t interest me. I’m here to make Syrah. The mutations of Syrah here are endless, and I wanted something more precise.” After finding the perfect setting, the winery was established in 2005. At the time of purchase, the land was just grass, stone, and old lava pieces. Once Peter began bulldozing the land, he discovered a “beautiful profile of perfect soils with different layers and a top layer of coral reef.” He described it as light sand with fragments of coral reef to the west with deep loamy granulated black subsoil full of oxygen. And to the east, facing the Ionian Sea, it is a former seabed with fossilized sand. “You could call this a paleolithic vineyard.” They planted two vineyards of Syrah in 2010. His wines from these vineyards have been rated among the best examples of Syrah in Italy. Montecarrubo is certified organic. Fermentations are spontaneous with natural yeasts, and the wine is aged in tonneaux with no filtrations. In addition to grape vines, Montecarrubo is also home to 1,300 mature Nocellara Etnea and Nocellara del Belice olive trees. These indigenous varieties, farmed organically, produce excellent organic extra virgin olive oil each autumn. Our visit included a vertical tasting of Vignolo IGT Terre Siciliane 100% Syrah from 2012 through 2021, showing its ability to display fruitiness, depth, and elegance through all the vintages. Dark berries, minerality, soft tannins, and spice were ever present, with the 2017 vintage beginning to show more tertiary flavors. The wines are made in limited quantities and are available in several markets worldwide. So if you can find a bottle, you are in for a treat! Planeta “Buonivini” Winery Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. As seen on the map below, Planeta has six wine estates in five regions spread east to west in Sicily. The first vines were planted at Ulmo in 1985, and by 2015 they established their 6th winery, La Baronia at Capo Milazzo. Today my focus is on their Buonivini Winery in Noto. Planeta founded this estate in 1998. Patricia Toth, responsible for production and enologist at the Etna estate, said, “We moved to Buonivini to make what is the most elegant expression for us of Nero d’Avola and Moscato.” Buonivini has 45 hectares and three vineyards that produce DOC Santa Cecilia (100% Nero d’Avola), Controdanza, DOC (Nero d’Avola and Merlot blend), Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC (100% Moscato Bianco, Moscato di Noto and Passsito di Noto that is made in a sweet and dry version. They also have a small area for Merlot and maintain four varieties of almond trees on seven hectares. The winery is “invisible” and underground. As Calogero Riportella, the estate’s enologist and agronomist said, “The cellar, which was built underground in 2003, preserves the landscape. The cellar also keeps the wines naturally cooler. He added, “We practice biodiversity and sustainability.” Calogero explained that this is the driest and hottest part of Sicily. The Mediterranean and Ionian sea come together and create a light breeze, which is very important for the vineyards. In addition, the soil has a great capacity for water retention, which is essential due to minimal rainfall of two to three times a year. With very white limey soils, it is the ideal terroir for Nero d’Avola and Moscato Bianco. Patricia said, “This is one of the most exciting areas for me, for the soil is comparable to Champagne.” All slideshow photo credits, Penny Weiss, except where noted. Patricia led us through a wine tasting of Buonivini wines, including wines from their other estates, accompanied by a delicious dinner. Santa Cecilia Noto, DOC is their top-of-the-line wine featuring 100% Nero d’Avola. Beautiful and complex. Floral notes with dark juicy fruit, spice, balsamic, and nice acidity. Controdanza Noto DOC is 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Merlot grown in white soils. Dark berries, earthy, baking spice, cherry, and vibrant acidity. Allemanda Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. It is a dry, crisp, and deliciously aromatic wine with jasmine, citrus, and notes of minerality and the sea. Passito di Noto Sicilia Noto DOC is 100% Moscato Bianco. An explosion of flavor with this “antique” wine. Floral, citrus fruit, apricot, honey, dried fruit, and tropical notes all come together in this complex and elegant wine. All slideshow photo credits Penny Weiss Planeta wines can be found in the USA and abroad. Feudo Maccari Antonio Moretti Cuseri, owner of Tenuta Sette Ponti in Tuscany, visited the Val di Noto in the late 1990s and fell in love with the area. He was smitten by Sicily’s famous Baroque style and the sea’s warm waters. He was so taken that he began a new project and created one of the most exciting viticulture businesses in the area. He has put together 250 hectares of property along the cliffs and beaches of this southernmost area of land in Noto, purchasing pieces of land from various owners, little by little. Maccari is the center of it all; it is here that the vineyards overlook the natural oasis of Vendicari (a nature reserve.) Antonio Moretti Cuseri has focused on native grape varieties like Nero d’Avola, Grillo, and Moscato di Noto, as well as international grapes like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing a fruity elegance and rich minerality to each wine. The first bottle produced at the estate was a 2000 Nero d’Avola. The proximity to the sea and the limestone-rich soil make this area perfect for quality winemaking, giving the grapes unique characteristics. The vineyards overlook the Ionian Sea and the natural oasis of Vendìcari and benefit from constant ventilation, which keeps the grape bunches healthy, so they are never stressed from the excessive heat. Only organic farming is practiced; they head-train all their vines to protect the grapes from the hot sun. The wood for aging is eclectic. Barriques are from France, and tonne and chestnut barrels are from Tuscany. The only white grape they work with is Grillo, and there are several interesting interpretations, such as Volé Mosso Bianco, fermented in small stainless steel vats that are temperature controlled and then left to slowly re-ferment at low temperatures. It is bottled with a slight residue of natural carbon dioxide and aged in bottle for three months. Family And Friends Grillo goes through temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration, partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for about 20 days and then aged partly in egg-shaped concrete tanks and partly in small oak barrels for at least six months and another in bottle for six months. They are exciting wines to drink! As you can see from the photos below, we tasted a lot of wine. Feudo Maccari’s red wines are impressive, from Neré, a light and fresh Nero d’Avola aged in stainless steel to, Saia, a Nero d’Avola aged in small oak barrels for 12-14 months that is round and elegant. In addition, they produce noteworthy Syrahs such as Mahâris with rich fruit and minerality. After the tasting, my palate was singing! Slideshow photos credit: Penny Weiss Tenute Zisola The Mazzei family is no stranger to fine winemaking; their wine history dates back to the 11th century. For the past 24 generations, the Mazzei family has been producing wines at Castello di Fonterutoli in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. I had the pleasure of tasting these wines last year with Giovanni Mazzei, who represents the 25th generation. The Mazzei family made their debut in Sicily in 2003 when they established Tenute Zisola. It is a “stone’s throw” from Noto, where they own 52 hectares of land that surrounds three traditional farmhouses called bagli. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss In addition to 22 hectares of grape vines, they cultivate olives, citrus fruits, and almonds. They are in the process of converting to organic production, which should be completed and certified by 2023. Dario Pennino, the export manager, said, “We specialize in viticulture. When the grape harvest is done, we tend to the orchards. What is important is the connection with terroir.” Nero d’Avola is the principal grape grown here, but they also produce small quantities of Syrah, Petit Verdot, Grillo, and Catarratto. Like many other wineries in the southeast, the sea breezes from the nearby coast keep the vineyards cool from severe heat. The soils are calcareous, medium textured, and rich in gravel which contribute to minerality, freshness, and elegance in the wines. They have a small but efficient winery with vinification in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and approximately 350 oak barrels in which the wines are aged. We sampled wine while gazing out over a stunning vista. It was a small hike to get there, but well worth it. Francesco Loi, a 24-year-old enologist who guided us through the tasting, told me he began making wine at 14. The 2021 harvest is his first one with Zisola. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss Zisola produces five wines, four reds, and one white. Their objective in making wine is to “approach it with sensitivity and respect.” One of our hosts said, “It takes time to make good wine. We don’t make coca cola.” Azisa Sicillia DOC 2021 is 100% Grillo. It is aromatic, dry, and fresh, with floral, citrus, white stone fruit, and pleasant minerality. Doppiozeta Noto Rosso DOC 2017 This is Zisola’s hallmark wine made with 100% Nero d’Avola from three unique plots. It was aged in new/used tonne for 16 months. Lush red fruit, cherry, spice, and a hint of mint with nice length with a 20+ year aging potential Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2019 100% Nero d’Avola aged in barrels for ten months. Cherry, red berries, herbal notes with acidity coming through. It is light and fresh. Achilles Syrah Sicilia DOC 2017 This 100% Syrah is aged 15 to 16 months in small French oak barrels. Dark cherry, earthy, smokey notes, and a nice balance of acidity and tannins. Effe Emme Tere Siciliane IGT 2016 is 100% Petit Verdot and is aged for 16 months in small french oak barrels. An intense wine that is very earthy with dark fruit, cherry, blackberry, spice, and a hint of dark chocolate. We continued to taste wine while enjoying a delicious lunch that Zisola prepared. Slideshow photo credits: Penny Weiss The wines I tasted on my tour of the southeast paired beautifully with all the local cuisine and specialty dishes. These versatile and expressive wines reflect the terroir, dedication, and love of this unique area of Sicily. They are a treat for the palate and soul. And I understand now the lure that beckons wine producers to come here.
I always say, “There is nothing better than pouring a part of Sicily into a wine glass.” Of course, I highly recommend taking a first-hand tour of this magical island! Until next time, Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com On a recent trip to Sicily, I had the opportunity to explore the wine regions in the Southeastern part of the island, including a special visit to Vittoria. I had not yet been to this area of Sicily and was bursting with curiosity. So, thanks to the gracious invitation of Assovini Sicilia, I happily returned to this magical island. And, as always, my love affair with Sicily continues to grow with each visit! Assovini Sicilia, founded in 1998, is an association of Sicilian winemakers. Their common objective is to promote the quality of Sicilian wine worldwide, giving voice to wine producers, promoting the region, maintaining high-quality viticulture, product quality, ethics, sustainability, and making a more pronounced impression in the marketplace. Currently, 90 wineries throughout Sicily form the association. I could write a book about this trip, with in-depth histories and anecdotes about each of the eight wineries visited as we made our way south to Siracusa, Noto, and Vittoria. However, today my article focuses on Vittoria, explaining why this is such a special part of Sicily and introducing a few of its wineries. Vittoria is a town and commune located in the province of Ragusa in southeastern Sicily. It is an idyllic region with ample sun exposure and beautiful marine breezes emanating from the Mediterranean sea to the south. It is surrounded by the stunning mountains of Erei to the north, the Iblei mountains to the east, and the hills of Caltanissetta province to the west. It is truly mother nature showing off! One can find a variety of breathtaking landscapes, historical and archeological sites, and several UNESCO World Heritage sites. Documentation shows that around the third century BC, an official deed showed the sale of a wine vineyard of one hectare proving evidence of viticulture in the Ragusa region. According to Consortia di Tutela Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, created in 2001, “Vittoria Colonna Henriquez, the woman that founded the city of Vittoria in 1607, promoted wine production granting privileges to wine growers. To celebrate the foundation, in 1607 she gifted 75 settlers a hectare of land if they would cultivate grapes, so favoring the quick enlargement of the vineyard in different sections of the region until the wine production, enhanced by the natural fertility of the soil, became a relevant fact in the whole area.” Documentation also shows that the province of Victoria prospered from the wine trade that began in the 12th century with the exportation of wine on sailing ships from Scoglitti, Vittoria’s trading port, to various parts of Europe. With a variety of fertile soils and microclimate conditions, the stage is set for the vines to prosper. Soils are mostly clay and limestone, with more sandy-loamy soil in the lower-lying vineyards closer to the coast. The vineyards enjoy a Mediterranean climate with cooling sea breezes during the summer and a large diurnal temperature range that helps to promote greater acidity and aromas in the grapes. Vittoria is not only an oasis for viticulture but also for farming produce such as tomatoes, oranges, onions, artichokes, and peppers. Stately olive, almond, and Carrubbo trees can be seen everywhere. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG In addition to the territory’s sweeping history, unique viticulture, and wine production, Vittoria is also home to Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, the first and only wines with DOCG status in Sicily, established in 2005. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is the pride of the grape growers, winemakers, and bottlers that accomplished the prestigious Protected and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin for the Cerasuolo di Vittoria and Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico wines. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is considered one of the most notable wines produced in Sicily. Cerasuolo means ‘cherry-colored’ in Italian, and the wine is known for its cherry red to violet color with floral and fruity aromas. Only the indigenous grapes of Nero d’Avola and Frappato are allowed in the blend. Frappato is one of the most ancient Sicilian grape varieties that is believed to have had its origins in the Ragusa province around 300 years ago. Frappato is light-bodied with low tannins and flavors of cherries and strawberries. Nero d’Avola is considered the “king” of Sicilian red grape varieties that has weight and is full-bodied along with a rich texture and dark red fruit flavors. Together, they complement and bring out the best in each other. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG tends to be lighter and fresher, and the Classico DOCG is more structured and has more richness. These wines run the gamut from elegant and fresh to alluring minerality and heady perfume while consistently exhibiting focused fruit and varying degrees of richness. Production Areas and Regulations Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG production is allowed in nine designated municipalities spread out among three provinces. The blend must be 50-70% Nero d”Avola, and 30-50% Frappato Minimum aging is eight months following harvest. Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG production is only allowed in three municipalities, all of which are in Ragusa province and only in the historic Classico production area. Minimum aging is 18 months following harvest. Below is a brief introduction to four wineries and a few tasting notes of Frappato DOC and Cerasuolo Vittoria DOCG from a selection of many expressive wines sampled at each winery. Terre di Giurfo Achille Alessi is owner of Terre di Giurfo and also president of Consortia di Tutela Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. Terre di Giurfo has been in the family since 1872. They have 90 hectares of beautiful ancient land along the Drillo River valley bordering the town of Licodia Eubea and the Iblean Province. Giurfo practices organic farming, which they began ten years ago. Achille said, “70% of Cerasuolo producers are organic. Terre di Giurfo has always used experience and technology to create high-quality agricultural products, especially wine and oil, but always remaining closely linked to the territory’s characteristics.” The vineyards and olive groves are tended with careful cultivation and observation to ensure genuine and quality wine and oil, which are rich in fragrances and flavors typical of the area. In 2003 the cellar was equipped with innovative winemaking and bottling systems. Achille said they only produce wine from grapes they grow. Belsito Vittoria DOC Frappato 2019 This 100% Frappato is aged in stainless steel and is lush with cherry, red berries, and floral aromas. The palate offers juicy notes of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, balanced acidity, and a hint of spice on the finish. Maskarìa Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2017 The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. It is aged in stainless steel tanks with time in the bottle as required by regulations. Beautiful aromas of blackberry, raspberry, and a hint of herbs and spices give way to soft tannins, gentle acidity, freshness, and dark cherry, with red and dark berries lingering on the finish. Valle dell’Acate Valle Dell’Acate is located in the heart of the historic Vittoria Classico region in the Biddini Soprana e Sottana district near Acate. Founded by Giuseppe Jacono at the end of the 19th century, the Jacono family has been active in vine growing and winemaking ever since Vittoria became Sicily’s epicenter for exporting wine to France during the 1800s. Today the company is run by the dynamic Gaetana Jacono, part of the family’s sixth generation of winemakers. The old winery restored to conserve and honor Sicilian culture and traditions, and the new winery are surrounded by 70 hectares of vineyards (certified as biological) with breathtaking views. One can feel the deep history and roots here. There are seven different soils on the estate. And as Gaetana explained, “Each soil differs in color and consistency, contributing varied characteristics to the wines. So, each soil is carefully selected to help characterize the individual grapevine. For example, for the 100% Frappato, the vines are grown in black soil, with white pebbles in the middle, contributing decent acidity and complex perfumes to the wine. I think it’s magic soil! The Frappato used in the Cerasuolo DOCG comes from vineyards with clear red soil. “We need a different Frappato with more structure for the Cerasuolo. Below is a slideshow of the different types of soil.Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato DOC 2021 This 100% Frappato is aged for six months in steel vats and then aged for a minimum of three months in bottle. Fragrant aromas of red fruit, raspberries, floral, and herbs segue onto the palate with mild tannins and freshness. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico 2019 The grapevines planted in dark red soil produce Nero d’Avola, while the vines planted in clear red soil produce Frappato. The blend is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. The wine is aged 12 months in barrels and tonneaux and then bottle-aged for a minimum of nine months. It has aromas of red and dark fruit, berries, spice, floral, and herbs. The palate offers smooth tannins with notes of minerality, nice acidity, cherry, vanilla, and strawberry lingering on the finish. Iri da Iri Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico Cru 2013 One of Gaetana’s dreams is to produce a long-aging Cerasuolo. So, with Carlo Casavecchia, the winemaker, she is making this dream come true. “Finally, after five years of aging in the cellars, we have presented the first vintage of Iri da Iri, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria Cru DOCG, the expression of one sole vineyard, a wine from the Biddine Soprano high plateau. A bottle which confirms our convictions, mine and from the hands of Casavecchia, an offering which demonstrates that Cerasuolo can give a wine of lengthy aging.” The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato aged together in large oak casks for 36 months and then a minimum of 18 months in bottle. It is a complex wine with powerful aromas, including cherries, red fruit, and baking spice. The palate is rich with a velvety mouthfeel, ripe fruit, spice, vanilla, and dark chocolate lingering on a long finish. Feudo Santa Tresa and Azienda Agricola Cortese "Two wineries, but the same heart." Siblings Stefano and Marina Girelli, entrepreneurs from Trentino, own both wineries and vineyards that are within walking distance (8 kilometers) from each other. Feudo Santa Tresa was purchased in 2001, a 50-hectare estate, followed by the purchase of Cortese in 2016, a 14-hectare estate. Although the estates are next door to each other, they each have their distinct microclimate and soils. Both estates use organic and biodiversity management. “In Vittoria, organic isn’t a choice, but a way of life. Our work is not limited simply to following the rules laid down for organic cultivation; it has become our philosophy, our raison d’être, and our way of life.” Cortese Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2017 Sabuci is the hamlet’s name in the Classico historical area where Cortese has been situated since 1930. The blend for this wine is about 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% Frappato. The Nero d’Avola is fermented in open-top barriques, and the Frappato is fermented in terracotta amphorae and remains in contact with the skins for up to 12 months. After blending, the wine is aged for six months, then another three months in bottle. Aromas of cherry, dark berries, baking spice, and cocoa segue onto the palate with hints of toffee. It is well-structured and elegant. Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2020 The blend for this wine is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. 15% of the Nero d’Avola is lightly dried on the vine using the Appassimento method. After blending, the wine is aged in oak for about 12 months. Aromas of dark cherries, violets, and raspberry lead to a palate of freshness, juicy fruity, ripe tannins, and a touch of pepper. Donnafugata Donnafugata is a fifth-generation, family-owned company led by siblings Josè and Antonio Rallo. In addition to four other estates located throughout Sicily, Donnafugata has an estate in Vittoria, in the countryside of Acate. There are 36 hectares of vineyards in production, divided into three districts. Nero d’Avola and Frappato are grown in Acate, and the wines produced here fall under the denomination of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Frappato DOC. Their first harvest was in 2016. Tommaso Bellisola, hospitality manager for the Vittoria winery, said, “The grapes are planted in three different soils; sand, stones, and clay, which produces different shades of grapes.” He went on to say, “The valley was once covered by the sea, so one can find oyster shells and limestone in the sandy soil. Sea breezes occur every day. During the morning, the sun hits the ground and warms the soil, the heat then rises, and the sea breeze penetrates the valley, gains speed, refreshes the grapes, and blows away indigenous disease. The direction of the vineyards is east to west, so that the vineyards can benefit from the sea and mountain breezes.” Bell’Assai Vittoria DOC Frappato 2021 This 100% Frappato is aged four months in tanks and over four months in bottle. Fragrant aromas of rose petals with notes of fresh strawberry and raspberry spill onto the palate with soft tannins. Contesa dei Venti Vittoria DOC Nero D’Avola 2020 This 100% Nera d’Avola is aged eight months in tanks and a minimum of seven months in bottle. It is ruby red with cherry, red berries, and floral aromas. The palate has fresh, fruity notes, with strawberries, sweet spice, and soft tannins. Antonio Rallo said, "Contesa dei Venti is a Nero d'Avola trademark, a product of the territory and of our original interpretation. A pure, fresh, harmonious red wine and one with a persuasive tannin, which is the result of the many harvest tastings I have had together with the whole team. We had a lot of fun giving life to this wine, and we are convinced that those looking for pleasant and representative red wines of the territory of origin can find very valid answers within the area of Vittoria". Floramundi Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2020 This wine is aged eight months in tanks and a minimum of seven months in bottle. Beautiful aromas of violets, red fruit, and spice segue onto the palate with cherry, plum, berries, and spice. For a closer look at Donnafugata, please read https://santemagazine.com/the-magic-of-donnafugata/ or click on the menu at right for more articles. Food Pairings Because of their well-balanced acidity, the above wines are incredibly food-friendly and pair well with almost everything from fish-based cuisine to meats, game, and spicy dishes. Gaetana Jocono said, “ These wines are very ancient but also very modern and good for the food of today!” And, of course, enjoying these wines with the local cuisine was bliss! Chilling these wines for about 15 minutes before serving adds another “refreshing” quality, especially on a warm day! The wines are available for purchase most everywhere. So, treat your palate and discover for yourself why Vittoria is so special!
Grazie to all for your warm reception, hospitality, wine, and food! Until next time… Cheers! Penina Most of the content in this article was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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