My love affair with Sicily continues with a potpourri of delectable wines from Sicilia DOC that are sure to please the palate. Each bottle of wine is expressive of Sicily’s typical Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and landscapes of which approximately 61% is hilly, 24% is mountainous, and 15% makes up the flatter areas near the coast. As of 2020, within Sicilia DOC, there are 23,521 hectares under vine, 498 wineries, and 7,863 vine growers. With over 70 indigenous Italian grape varieties planted throughout Sicily, 31 of these varieties are planted within Sicilia DOC along with international varieties. These six wines are produced from upland (hilly) vineyards and demonstrate the uniqueness of these elevated plateaus. The defining factors are soil, topography, and altitude, with a focus on sustainability, and many wineries that are certified organic. Di Giovanna Helios Grillo 830m. 2020 Sicilia DOC Di Giovanna is a family-run winery founded in 2004 by 5th-generation winegrowers Klaus and Gunther Di Giovanna. The family has five vineyards located between the provinces of Palermo and Agrigento in western Sicily, and the winery is situated on a natural preserve. The grapes for this 100% Grillo are sourced from a mountainside single vineyard at 830 meters above sea level in Fiuminello, Sambuca di Sicilia. The soil is composed of limestone and ancient marine sediment that imparts a vibrant mineral finish to the wine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and French tonneaux. 90% of the wine is aged on the lees in steel for nine months, and 10% is aged in tonneaux. This wine is certified organic. Nose: Intense aromas of white flowers, citrus, and pineapple Palate: Lovely texture, rich fruit, savory and complex with vibrant acidity and minerality. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $28.95 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Principi Di Butera Carizza Insolia 2020 Sicilia DOC Principi Di Butera is a 320-hectare estate located 10 kilometers from the sea and sits on one of the most mineral-rich areas on the island. The Zonin family has owned the estate since 1997, and it surrounds an ancient feudal domain. This 100% Insolia is grown on the hillside vineyards of Butera with soil that is rich in clay. The climate is warm and dry, optimizing the development and perfect ripening of the grapes. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged six months on the lees. Carizza is the Sicilian word for “caress.” Nose: Floral, exotic and white stone fruit Palate: Rich in flavor with aromas segueing onto the palate and a hint of almond on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $16.99 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with cheese, fish, and white meat. Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2018 Sicilia DOC Planeta was founded in 1985, but its family history of agriculture and winemaking in Sicily spans five centuries and seventeen generations. Planeta has five estates spread out from east to west in Sicily with 32 hectares on Mt. Etna, of which 28 hectares of vines are in production. The vineyards are located on four different slopes, varying in altitude. This wine is 90% Carricante, and 10% Riesling and the grapes are sourced from the Sciaranuova vineyard with volcanic soil that is rich in minerals and black with lava sands. The altitude is between 820-860 meters above sea level. Patricia Tóth, the winemaker, noted, “The Carricante is more compact and sharp at the higher elevation.” The wine is fermented in stainless steel and remains on fine lees for five months. Nose: Floral, citrus, and white stone fruit. Palate: Rich fruit flavors, tropical notes, honeydew, with a boost of minerality, and lemon zest on the finish. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $42.99 Pairings: Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with fish, shellfish, and salads. Mandrarossa Cartagho 2017 Sicilia DOC Mandrarossa is a brand created by Cantine Settesoli located in Menfi, on the island’s southwestern side. Cantine Settesoli was founded in 1958, and it is the largest winery in Sicily, and a source of ongoing research and innovative ideas. Mandrarossa is Settesoli’s top brand that emerged in 1999. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards in Menfi at 150 meters above sea level in limestone and sandy soils. The wine is aged one year in barrique and another four months in the bottle. Nose: Rich aromas of dark berries, cherry, and a hint of spice Palate: Blackberries, ripe cherry, spice, with a touch of plum, dates, and dark chocolate. Soft, ripe tannins and subtle minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $26.49 Pairings: Aged cheese, braised beef, seared tuna, or game. Donnafugatta Sherazade 2019 Sicilia DOC The Rallo family owns the iconic Donnafugata, and their family history of winemaking dates back to 1851. They have several wineries and over 405 hectares of vineyards located throughout Sicily, including historic aging cellars at their Marsala winery. Sherazade is 100% Nero d’Avola, and the grapes are sourced from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate and nearby vineyards, located in the southwestern part of Sicily. The vineyards’ altitude ranges from 200 to 400 meters above sea level. Clay loam soils are rich in nutrients and contribute to the wines’ expression. This wine is aged for about four months in tanks and then a minimum of three months in the bottle. Nose: Violets, cherry, plum, balsamic, and spice. Palate: Fresh and lively with juicy red fruit, berries, plum, cherry, spice, and well-balanced tannins. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 Pairings: Serve with mature cheese, pasta and red sauce, seared tuna, calamari, or pizza. Assuli Orlando Nero d’Avola 2018 Sicilia DOC The Caruso family owns Baglio Assuli, with the third generation now leading the company, and they are dedicated to producing high-quality 100% organic wines. Assuli is located in Mazara del Vallo in northwestern Sicily, with over 120 hectares of land. The vineyards are primarily located in the municipality of Mazara del Vallo. The grapes for this 100% Nero d’Avola are sourced from vineyards at an altitude of 100-150 meters above sea level. Soil composition is a medium texture with stones and pebbles and is rich with minerals. The wine is aged three to four months in stainless steel and then in bottle for three to four months. Nose: Floral, red fruit, dark plum, and earth. Palate: Dark cherry, plum, blackberry, anise, and a hint of spice. Good balance and long finish. Alcohol: 13.55 SRP: $20.99 Pairings: Medium-aged cheese, roasted or grilled meat, stews, or paella. Exploring the wines of Sicily is an ongoing pleasure. There is so much to discover, and you can be assured that I will be back with more wines to taste and wineries to tell you about! Until next time...
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com If you haven’t read Part One of this story, then it’s time to catch up to everyone before we continue our journey heading west in Franken. http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2019/10/day-755-exploring-the-franken-wine-region-part-one.html Winzer Sommerach There are five wine cooperatives in the Franken wine region. And our first stop of the day was to the oldest cooperative, Winzer Sommerach, founded in 1901. Located in the small community of Sommerach, (literal German translation is “The place on the sunny side of the river.”), the co-op was formed with only 36 members. Today there are 220 members (90 families) and 196 hectares of vineyards. Thomas Baumann, a winemaker and member of the co-op who is quite jovial and informative, led us on a spirited tour and wine tasting. As Thomas explained, “We have had one credo since the co-op’s inception and that is ‘Unity Is Strength’”. The vines are planted throughout ten vineyards with a variety of grapes such as Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Bacchus, Kerner, Spätburgunder and Domina. All the families tend the vineyards with passion and dedication that transcends to the wines they make. Eighty different types of wine are produced every year with well over 1.3 million liters of wine sold per year. Here is a review of the two wines we tasted. Frizzante Valentin Cuvee is a sparkling wine with a blend of three grapes, including Traminer. It is light and refreshing with soft fruit aromas and flavor. This is a nicely balanced wine with crisp acidity, minerality and fine bubbles. Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2018 is 100% Silvaner with fresh aromas of citrus, grapefruit and minerality. The palate is layered with citrus, pear, melon, minerality and a touch of lemon zest on the finish. It is well balanced with lively acidity. Alcohol: 13% The tour of the ancient wine cellar was amazing and is depicted in the slide show below. The statue is of St. Urban of Langres, the patron saint of all who work in the wine industry. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Weingut Rainer Sauer Rainer Sauer winery is located in the charming town of Volkach, a town rich with history that dates back over 1000 years. The original building where Rainer Sauer winery resides was erected in 1880 and the old wine cellar was built in 1890. For at least four generations, the Rainer family has been involved in the wine industry. In 1979, Helga and Rainer Sauer took over the estate and began selling wines under the Rainer Sauer label. Their son Daniel joined the team in 2007 and was involved in taking steps to direct the estate towards biodynamic farming and organic production. Daniel said, ”We are totally organic and our goal now is certification”. The winery was renovated starting in 2013 and was completed in 2015. It is an architectural masterpiece and worth stopping at for a tour and a glass of wine. And speaking of wine, Daniel met us outside when we arrived at Rainer Sauer with a glass of sparkling wine for each of us. As Daniel led us on the tour he explained the hopes of eventually becoming “a complete white wine winery.” The vineyards are planted with 2% red grapes and 98% white grapes of which 61% is Silvaner. His father Rainer is considered the “Pope of Silvaner”. Daniel said, “It is important to integrate tradition and modern with the least possible intervention and let the grapes speak.” The winery is the first in Franken to make use of egg-shaped concrete tanks for white wine fermentation. Daniel said, “The egg creates a completely different style of Silvaner wine with more layers and more complexity.” Here is a review of both wines we tasted. Blanc De Noir Extra Brut Sekt is a lovely sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne method. This wine is dry and very aromatic with fine and delicate bubbles. The palate offers citrus, stone fruit, minerality, bread and a hint of floral. Alcohol: 13.5% Silvaner AB OVO 2017 is 100% Silvaner and was fermented in egg-shaped concrete tanks. OVO means ‘from the egg’. This is a rich and complex wine with aromas of citrus, grapefruit and minerality that spill onto the palate with fresh tangerine, pear and herbal notes. Lively acidity brings it all together for a unique Silvaner experience. Alcohol: 13% In the Rainer Sauer upstairs tasting room, a mural of photographs and words tell the story of the winery and one phrase that spoke to me so deeply was this. The German translation to English is: “The center of the world is always where you are right now.” For more information about this winery, please visit https://www.weingut-rainer-sauer.de It was time for lunch and another wine cellar tour, so we made our way to Restaurant Zur Schwane in Volkach. Not only is Zur Schwane a restaurant, but they also have a hotel and winery with a very old wine cellar. In 1996, Ralph Düker and Eva Pfaff-Düker became owners of this historic building that dates back over 600 years. Here are a few photos from our brief time spent here. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Our next stop on this whirlwind tour was the town of Iphofen, nestled in the heartland of Franken where time has stood still for over 800 years. This medieval town is complete with stone walls and gates and a population of fewer than 5000 people. Crooked timber-framed houses sit in defiance on quiet roads. In fact, the most noise one hears are the beautiful church bells that seem to chime at any given moment. We asked the guide how the town survived so many wars without one scar. He told us that Iphofen became a hospital during the last war. A large red cross was painted in the town square warning planes not to drop bombs! In addition to its history, Iphofen is central to many vineyards. Vinothek Iphofen is a local place to taste and enjoy wine from the region. Here is a short slide show of Iphofen. BTW, Vinothek translated is ‘wine store’. Photo credits: Penny Weiss The day ended with wine and “Franconian Tapas” at Vinotheque Fahr Away in Volkach, a wine bar owned by Heike and Thomas Braun. They also own a hotel and make delicious wine. We tasted a variety of wines from Familienweingut Braun with their cellarmaster Kristin Zwiener who guided us through the wines as we enjoyed eight tapas paired nicely with the wine. It was a feast for the palate! Photo credits: Penny Weiss https://weinbar-fahraway.de The next day we drove to the Haßberge district where the low mountains and rolling hills of the Hassberge Mountains are located. Our destination was Zeil am Main, a town on the right side of the Main River. Views of castle ruins, medieval walls and endless vineyards are breathtaking here. We met up with Max Martin of Weingut Martin who was our guide on a vigorous hike up the Abt-Degan-Steig, a trail on the southern slope of the Haßberge Mountains. We hiked through medieval vineyards, small vineyard terrace, stone staircases and the vineyards of Weingut Martin. The photo of the “happy face” house is actually a former wine shelter. Photo credits: Penny Weiss Weingut Martin is a family-run fourth-generation winery that has passed down knowledge and secrets of winemaking from generation to generation. Max Martin is the fourth generation and has taken all the past knowledge learned to further develop and integrate traditional and modern methods of winemaking. Weingut Martin has about 5.5 hectares of vines that grow in a macroclimate with the rich soils of Keuper that help to give the wine its unique character. After our hike, we were treated to a lovely lunch and wine tasting at Weingut Martin. Barbarossa Dornfelder QbA Trocken 2016 is 100% Dornfelder with concentrated aromas of dark berries and a hint of floral. The palate offers blackberry, dark plum, herbs, a hint of spice and smooth tannins. This is a juicy, but dry wine. It is easy to drink and food-friendly. Alcohol: 12% Olschnabel Silvaner 2018 is 100% Silvaner with enticing aromas of stone fruit and minerality. This is well rounded with crisp acidity and minerality with subtle flavors of citrus, peach and herbs. Alcohol: 12.5% For further information, please visit www.weingut-max-martin.de And what would a visit to Germany be if we didn’t stop for Kaffee und Kuchen (cake and coffee). This is an afternoon tradition that has been part of German life for hundreds of years. We were invited to partake of this ritual at Brauhaus 3 in Konigsberg in Bayern. Brauhaus 3 is a tiny village with 90 residents. Silvia and Thomas Schuhmann own three luxury ecological wellness holiday apartments that are sustainable and ecological. There is a large garden area with a natural pond biosphere. Everything is made in Germany and built by the very creative and talented Thomas. We were given a sneak peek of his new construction that is energy self-sufficient and quite unique! Photo credits: Penny Weiss After filling up on lots of Kuchen, we headed to the quaint and historic town of Königsberg for a stroll. As my photos will show, I was drawn to the architecture and a few eye-catching doors. The Franken wine region has stolen my heart and I can’t wait to return. There is much to explore and the wines truly define the terroir and the creativity of the winemakers. All the winemakers that I met stressed the importance of letting the grapes and terroir speak with as little intervention as possible. It was a great introduction for me to taste the many styles of Silvaner. I hope that I have aroused your interest in exploring the wines of this region.
No doubt, I’ve omitted a few restaurants and hotels from this story. However, some have already been mentioned on social media and there is more to come. Until next time… Auf Wiedersehen und Prost! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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