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This is a virtual visit to one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world.  Georgia is one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world, with archaeological evidence dating back 8000 years, making the tradition of winemaking almost 1,000 years older than previously thought. According to Wines Of Georgia, “In 2015, in southeast Georgia, archaeologists discovered clay vessels (qvevri) containing the residue of cultivated grape seeds. Using archaeological, archaeobotanical, climatic, and chemical methods, researchers dated these artifacts to 6000 BCE.”  Photo courtesy of the National Museum of Georgia taken in November 2017 shows a 3-inch (8-centimeter) shard of pottery vessels about 8,000 years old, found south of Tbilisi, Georgia. Fragments of ceramic casks, some decorated with grape motifs, were also found.   Qvevri Wines of Georgia explained what qvevri are. “Qvevri are egg-shaped clay vessels that Georgians have used continuously for 8,000 years. These large tapered vessels, often 1,000 liters or more, are buried underground to keep temperatures constant during fermentation and aging. Using the traditional method, winemakers ferment the juice and skins together. Skin contact turns what would otherwise be white wines into amber wines with tannins. Winemakers use qvevri to ferment red grapes as well as white. Qvevri are still made by hand by Georgia’s master qvevri-making families. With the rising popularity of amber and natural wines, the demand for qvevri is on the rise in Georgia and internationally. In 2013, the United Nations added qvevri winemaking to the UNESCO list documenting humanity’s intangible cultural heritage.” Below are photos of qvevri stored outside and inside the winery.  Outdoor cellar Photo courtesy of Sun Wine  Traditional indoor cellar Once part of the Soviet republic, Georgia is located in the Caucasus region of Eurasia that intersects Europe and Asia. It borders the Great Caucasus Mountains to the north, the Black Sea to the west, and the lesser Caucasus to the south. It is 27,000 square miles, slightly less than the state of Maine!  There are nine wine regions throughout Georgia with 55,000 hectares of vines and 24 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO). Kakheti wine region, located in the easternmost part of the country, is the primary winemaking area where approximately three-quarters of Georgia’s vineyards are planted. Climate is diverse throughout the wine regions and can range from subtropical to continental to alpine to near desert-like. Mineral-rich soil and deposits can be found in all regions, which contribute to the characteristic flavors of the wines. Georgia has 525 indigenous grape varieties, with approximately 38 varieties used for commercial production; 55% are planted to white and 45% to red. The two most prominent grape varieties are Rkatsiteli (white) and Saperavi (red). Although most wine shipped to the United States is dry, about 70% of Georgia’s wine production is semi-sweet and sweet.  After Georgia’s five-day war with Russia in 2008, it lost over 90% of its export market. However, when Russia’s ban on Georgian wine was lifted in 2013, 57% of Georgian wine went to Russia. As of 2019, Georgia exports wine to 53 countries, and the number of bottles shipped is climbing steadily. Within the ex-Soviet states, Georgia is second after Moldova in the amount of grape production. And it is safe to say that Georgian wine is now on everyone’s radar. Georgia has over 100,000 family wineries with deep winemaking roots in every family. So there is much to explore and taste. Sun Wine is a family winery located in Kvareli in the Kakheti region. The Mzekalashvili family has approximately 90 hectares of vineyards, focusing on combining modern and old means of winemaking passed down from their grandfather, Zurab Mzekalashvili. over 50 years ago. Today, his grandson, Zurab Mzekalashvili, inspired by his grandfather’s traditions, created Sun Wine in 1978. He produces wine based on the specific technology developed by the Mzekalashvili family and frequently adds new techniques and designs.  Sun Wine Vineyards Both of the Sun Wines I tasted were made with indigenous grapes.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Sun Wine Tsinandali 2018 Estate Bottled This white wine is a blend of 80% Rkatsiteli and 20% Mtsvane. The grapes are sourced from vineyards in the Telavi and Kvareli areas of Kakheti. Nose: Inviting aromas of floral, melon, anise, and white stone fruit. Palate: Green apple, white flowers, apricot, and crisp acidity with a hint of nuttiness lingering on the finish. It is dry and refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $18 Pairings: Serve with seafood, salads, and cheese. Sun Wine Saperavi 2018 Estate Bottled Grapes are sourced from the Kindzmarauli area of Kakheti for this 100% Saperavi. Saperavi means “the place of color” and is one of the few red grape varieties in the world with red flesh and red skin. Nose: This dark purple wine has enticing aromas of dark cherry, floral and spice. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with dark berries, pomegranate, dark cocoa, and licorice. It all blends beautifully with added lively acidity. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $19 Pairings: Pair with grilled meat, seared tuna, and hearty stews. These are delightful wines that one can enjoy as an aperitif in addition to food. So, take your palate on an exploration of Georgian wines, and let me know what you think! Until next time… Cheers! Penina This article was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It might be winter with lots of snow, ice, and frigid temperatures, but I’m enjoying a touch of spring with these fresh and vibrant wines from Languedoc!  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Languedoc and Roussillon, now known as the Occitanie region since 2016, is France’s largest wine-producing area located in southern France(approximately 584,400 acres). It extends from the Rhône valley in the east to the Spanish border in the southwest. Languedoc makes up about 90% of this region, with Roussillon occupying 10%.  The wine styles reflect the climate and terrain, which vary with the location of the vineyards growing from the Mediterranean Sea to the mountainous terrain more inland. While this region offers red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, about 75% to 80% of the wine production is red, with Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan being the major players. The red wines are noted for being fruit-driven and full-bodied, with an emphasis on blends rather than single varietals. White grapes include Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Vermentino, Viognier, and Bourbouelenc.
Most of Languedoc’s vineyards are located on coastal plains, and Roussillon vineyards lie in the foothills of the Pyrenees or on cliff tops. The vineyards experience a primarily Mediterranean climate with varying microclimates and soil composition. It is interesting to note that Languedoc is documented as one of France’s largest organic wine-growing regions. Here are three samples of what Languedoc has to offer. Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet ‘Terres Rouges’ 2020 Domaine Reine Juliette is a sixth-generation winery located on the Via Domitia in Pomerols on the Mediterranean coast. This wine is made from 100% Picpoul blanc grapes planted in red limestone gravel in vineyards situated in the Appellation of Protected Designation of Origin Languedoc “Picpoul de Pinet.” Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with short aging in bottle before release. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, melon, and citrus Palate: Dry and crisp with lemon, honeydew, white peach, minerality, and a touch of red ruby grapefruit on the finish. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $23 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with salmon croquettes, shellfish, or oysters. Terre Des Dames Le Rosé 2020 AOC Coteaux du Languedoc Terre Des Dames was purchased in 2002, but the estate’s originality shines through with its 100 -year-old vines and 18th-century buildings. This rosé is a blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. Grapes are sourced from small plots on different levels and are surrounded by ancient stone walls and wild garrigue. Nose: Floral, red berries, Palate: Fresh fruit, raspberry, strawberry, spice, minerality, and a hint of herbal. Crisp, dry, with subtle complexity, and quite delightful! Alcohol: 13% SRP: $21 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with light fare. Domaine La Madura ‘Classic Rouge’ 2018 AOP Saint-Chinian Domaine La Madura is located in Saint-Chinian appellation, with blocks of vineyards planted on a patchwork of very varied soils and altitudes that differ from one plot to another. The blend for this wine is 34% Grenache, 22% Carignan, 22% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah, with vines growing on slopes in varying soil types such as clay-limestone, sandstone, and schist. Aging of wine is in concrete vats and 3 to 10-year-old barrels for Syrah and Mourvèdre. Nose: Cherry, dark fruit, herbal notes, and earthy. Palate: This wine is fresh and sassy. Aromas segue onto the palate with silky tannins, anise, and minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $22 Pairing: Grilled meat, stews, glazed duck, seared tuna, mushroom risotto, or hearty soups. The above wines are unique and expressive of Languedoc’s terroir. If you can’t travel to Languedoc right now, let your palate take you on tour. Even with lots of snow outside my window, I’m happy to sip these wines and let them take me to Languedoc for a visit. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com We’ve all either been to or seen photos of breathtaking views of wine vineyards nestled among enchanting settings worthy of a picture postcard. So, what makes Ehret Family Winery’s Bavarian Lion Vineyards so unique? It is not only the location and dazzling views, it is also the magical grapes that grow here, the passion and love the Ehret family pours into protecting the environment, and a dedicated team focused on producing outstanding wines.  Drone view of Bavarian Lion Vineyards Courtesy of Ehret Knights Valley Bavarian Lion Vineyards is located in Knights Valley, an AVA in one of Northern Sonoma County’s most prestigious viticultural areas. Knights Valley earned its AVA status in 1983 and has approximately 2000 acres of vineyards. The Knights Valley AVA borders the Alexander Valley AVA to the west, Chalk Hill to the south, and Calistoga (in Napa Valley) to the east. Because of its sheltered location, Knights Valley is one of the warmest areas in Sonoma County. Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties thrive in this environment with well-drained soils, abundant sunshine, warm day temperatures, and cool nights. In addition, alluvial gravel soils and volcanic deposits have a direct impact in keeping yields low, which in turn contributes to more concentrated and flavorful grapes.  Knights Valley Map Bavarian Lion Vineyards and Ehret Family Winery The largest estate in Knights Valley is Ehret Family Winery’s 1800-acre Bavarian Lion Vineyards. With a passion and appreciation for fine wine, entrepreneur and German-born Pierre Ehret and his wife Susan purchased 2000 acres of land here in 1978. After selling off 200 acres to a well-known winery in 1995, they were left with 1800 acres of prime land.  Pierre and Susan Ehret Not wanting to disturb the biodiversity of this dramatic nature preserve, Pierre and Susan planted wine vineyards on only 1/4 of the property, covering 500 acres in 1996, and established the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. Pierre said, “It is important that the natural environment co-exists with the vineyards, and that the birdlife, wildlife, trees, insects, and fish are allowed to prosper.” Bavarian Lion Vineyards are Certified Sustainable, and they have a certification in Fish Friendly Farming from the California Land Stewardship Institute. A minimalist approach is practiced in the vineyards. All energy is derived from installed solar panels, and only rainwater run-off is recycled and used in the vineyards, eliminating groundwater irrigation. Since 1996, Pierre has been selling his premium grapes to prestigious wineries throughout Sonoma and Napa Valley. But in 2005, he decided to create his own label, Ehret Family Winery and took several of the best premium blocks for his wines. He continues to sell grapes to wineries at an average of 1800 – 2000+ tons per year and keeps 15-20 tons (approximately 1%) for his brand. I asked Pierre what motivated him to create his brand. Pierre: “I received so much positive feedback from all of our customers. I thought it would be a fun family project to make our own wine. Also, several wineries were putting our name on the back of their wine labels as the designated vineyard. And these same wines were getting high scores which I found intriguing.” In 2006 Ehret Family Winery produced their first vintage of Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon. After harvest, grapes are transported to a custom crush facility where Erin Green, the consultant winemaker, supervises and spins her magic, producing an amazing portfolio of wines for Ehret Family Winery.  Erin Green, Winemaker Erin has been with Ehret starting with the 2015 vintage. She is no stranger to winemaking and has an impressive background dating back to the 1990s. Erin said that she prefers consulting rather than running a winery. “I like the process from farming to production.” When Erin first arrived at Bavarian Lion Vineyards, she searched among the blocks to find the hidden jewels. Her goal was to try and raise the quality of the wine. “My first year, I worked with nine different blocks and was able to grow Cabernet Sauvignon as a very small berry and cluster. The berries were very dark, rich, dense, and concentrated. I like lighter crop levels to obtain more intense flavor and accumulate enough sugar and maturity in the grapes.” In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards are planted to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel. I asked Erin if climate change has had an impact on the vineyards. Erin: “It can get warm, and we’ve had some drought years, but we have three very large trap water reservoirs to help us. Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is tougher and can deal with the change.” Pierre added, “Knights Valley is known for its temperate and special climate. It is the fires that are our biggest issue, more so than climate change. The smoke from the fires can sit in the vineyards and contaminate the vines and grapes.” Bavarian Lion Vineyards has approximately 79 blocks ranging from 400-800 feet in elevation. All of Ehret’s Cabs are a blend of selected blocks, and the Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel are produced from single blocks. Since 2015, Ehret Family Wines has been winning awards, and their wines receive high ratings every year. Here are three gems from their portfolio.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Sauvignon Blanc 2020 This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was aged in stainless steel tanks. Erin said, “The painstaking effort with which we crafted this singular expression of Knights Valley Sauvignon Blanc was worth every last second of the month-long ferment. Utilizing an extremely low-temperature tactic allowed us to enhance and concentrate the fruit expression this grape variety is so famous for.“ Nose: Citrus zest, white stone fruit, minerality, and a dash of floral Palate: Fresh and vibrant acidity with peach, grapefruit, melon, and minerality blended in. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $35 Production: 440 cases Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This wine is a blend of 75.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16.61% Cabernet Franc and 8.17% Petite Verdot. The wine was aged for 18 months in 52% new French oak barrels. Nose: Ripe berries, cherry, baking spice, and violet Palate: Silky tannins, dark ripe fruit, black cherry, pomegranate, dark raspberry, toasted oak, and cocoa, ending with a rich and persistent finish. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $75 Production: 505 cases Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine aged for 18 months in 78% new French oak barrels. Nose: Violet, dark cherry, and blackberry Palate: Rich and concentrated dark fruit with blackberry, blueberry, dark cherry, herbs, and dark chocolate. Oak and mineral notes dance around the palate with soft tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $115 Production: 202 cases Concerning the 2021 vintage, this is what Erin had to say. “The 2021 vintage was challenging because of low yields and limited water. It was 20% to 30% down in quantity. However, it is a small but powerful vintage with very tiny and flavorful berries…it is liquid gold! Nature gave us the crops, and we didn’t have to under-crop to attain low yields. It’s what the vines wanted to do this year, and we benefited.” I certainly look forward to tasting the 2021 vintage! So, where can one find Ehret wines? With a small production output each year, these hand-crafted wines are mainly sold online. Ehret Family Winery believes in “quality over quantity” and “passion versus mass production.” They have created an online Wine Club where members receive exclusive access, assurance of obtaining new releases, and special pricing opportunities. At present, there are about 150 members. However, one doesn’t have to be a member to order wine! Also, if you should find yourself in downtown Healdsburg, head over to the Ehret Tasting Room that they opened a few months ago. You won’t be disappointed!  Tasting Room And, if you feel adventurous and would like a customized and personal tour of Bavarian Lion Vineyards, in addition to a wine tasting, they are taking reservations. As Pierre said, “Experience how the natural environment co-exists with the vineyards.” Pierre and Susan have three children, Alex, Christian, and Isabella, born in Santa Rosa, CA. The family likes to divide their time between Sonoma and Europe, instilling in their children a solid European heritage and appreciation for culture, both in the States and abroad.  The Ehret Family I have tasted many of the Ehret Family Winery wines in the past few weeks. They are elegant, expressive, and memorable. My palate is still singing!
Until next time… Cheers! Penny This article was originally published on Santé Magazine To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Read my latest article for Santé Magazine about the wines of Croatia. Click the link below. https://santemagazine.com/wines-of-croatia-an-overview/  Cheers!
Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com If you’ve been following my posts for the last few years, then you know that on occasion, I will review new vintages of my favorite wines from producers that I have written about in the past. And so it is with Pasqua Vigneti é Cantine who always pleases my palate with their expressive and memorable wines. This family-run business led by third-generation Pasqua brothers is located in Verona, Italy. They have complete control over 741 acres of vineyards (1/3 is estate-owned) that stretch from Lake Garda to Soave.  Photo courtesy of Pasqua If you are not familiar with this estate, please click on the link below to learn more about Pasqua’s history, vineyards, and wines, or click on Pasqua from the menu at right. thewineknitter.com/1/post/2019/01/day-701-the-two-brothers-of-verona.html Although we are transitioning to the autumn season, and “more robust” wines might be on your mind, both of these wines are a pleasure to drink all year round.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé Trevenezie IGT 2020 This wine is a unique blend of 50% Corvina, 25% Trebbiano di Lugana, 15% Syrah and 10% Carménère sourced from Lake Garda. The wine is called “11 Minutes” because, after harvest, the grapes are gently pressed, and with only 11 minutes of skin contact, the most noteworthy qualities of the grapes are extracted, and the color is obtained. The bottle is an unusual oval shape, with an alluring photo of Lesbia seen through the front label.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss A beautiful bouquet of floral, citrus, and red berries continues onto the palate with notes of strawberry, spice, and vibrant acidity. This is a fresh and elegant rosé. Serve as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2019 This wine is 100% Garganega grapes that are hand-harvested and sourced from Veneto. The Appassimento technique is used to make this wine. Grapes dry in crates in the drying loft for a short time to enhance the sugar and floral aromas before maceration and fermentation. Once fermentation is complete, part of the wine is aged in French oak for a few months and then finally blended. The label is an original photo of Juliet’s courtyard by photographer Giò Martorana. The courtyard is a tourist attraction in Verona that conveys the love story of Romeo and Juliet and where tourists are invited to leave and exchange messages of love.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss It is quite aromatic with notes of stone fruit, citrus and floral on the nose. The palate offers peach, apricot, white flowers, and lemon. It is refreshing, crisp, and well-balanced. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, salads, or cheese.
Alcohol: 13% SRP: $16 Enjoy! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Every bottle of wine has a story, whether it’s the history behind the winemaking, the grapes, region, or the memory attached to drinking it. This is a story of an Albanian family who has striven and succeeded in making a difference in war-torn Kosovo.  The story begins with Rrustem Gecaj, an Albanian American who immigrated from Yugoslavia in 1974 to escape communism and the hardships that came with it. After living in Italy and then Canada, Rrustem was granted a visa to the United States in 1976. He made his home in New York City, became a United States citizen, and with his wife raised their children in the surrounding suburbs. Through wise real estate investments and other fruitful business ventures, Rrustem amassed an impressive portfolio. However, the ravages of the Kosovo War that raged from 1998-1999 weighed on him, and he longed to return to Kosovo to help rebuild the economy and create jobs for those less fortunate who had survived the war. It was also his dream to reconstruct the family kulla (“stone house” in Albanian) that was destroyed in the war. Kullas were created by the countrymen and date back hundreds of years. A kulla is traditionally made of four-cornered walls, each three feet thick and usually two to three stories tall. They are mostly windowless towers/fortresses that were built as a social center for the extended family, as well as for defense.  Rrustem Gecaj – Photo courtesy of Stone Castle Many businesses and wineries in Kosovo were once state-owned properties, including Stone Castle. Built in 1953 by the Yugoslavian government, the winery was originally known as NBI Rahoveci. When many businesses became privatized in 2006, Rrustem saw an opportunity to fulfill his dream. So, with enthusiasm and determination, Rrustem returned to Kosovo with the Gecaj family and purchased the NBI Rahoveci winery renaming it Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery. In 2008, Kosovo was recognized as an independent state. Kosovo is located in the Balkan region of southeastern Europe, and Stone Castle is situated in the heart of the Rahovec Valley, Kosovo’s premier, and dominant wine region.  This region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with sunny days most of the year and ample rainfall during the summer. It is, therefore, an ideal area for growing grapes. The soil is rich in clay and limestone with elevations that can reach 1700 feet above sea level. Avdi, Rrustem’s son, said, “Our soil is fertile with no need for irrigation systems due to the sufficient amount of rain.” In Kosovo, two-thirds of vineyard plantings are red grape varieties that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and indigenous varieties such as Vranç, Prokupac, and Zhameta. White grape varieties include Chardonnay and Riesling, with the most planted and indigenous white grape variety, Smederevka. I recently sat down with Rrustem’s three sons, Avni, Avdi, and Arben. These amazing young men, who inherited their father’s passion for Kosovo and tenacity and vision for the wine business, have taken over the reins of Stone Castle. In 2015, Avdi took over the winery’s operations, and he spends approximately nine months of the year in Kosovo. Avni is the importer, distributor, and manager of the family wines. And Arben, the youngest brother, is finishing his Master’s degree in marketing and joining his brothers in the family business.  From left to right: Arben, Avni & Avdi Gecaj. Photo credit: Penny Weiss I was curious why their father chose to buy a winery instead of a factory or other business. Also, is there a history of winemaking in the family? Avni replied, “My father had no background in wine.” He explained that his family came from generations of farmers, such as cattle farmers, sheepherders, and basically anything that had to do with farming. With all the factories and businesses that had become privatized, his father saw the greatest opportunity and potential in revitalizing the winery. Avdi said, “It is one of the only companies still operating since privatization. There are 32 registered wineries in Kosovo, and they are micro-wineries. Stone Castle is the largest.” When the winery was first purchased, there were only 250 hectares of vines, and all were uncultivated and neglected. Before the war, Kosovo had over 9000 hectares of vineyards with over a 2000 year history of winemaking. Advi explained that the Yugoslavian government ordered the farmers to rip out most of the vines, and in so doing, self-destructed the wine industry. With determination and lots of help, their father revitalized and saved the vines at Stone Castle. My next question was, who helped guide the family with the renovation of the winery and restoration of the vineyards? “We had winemakers come from countries such as Germany, America, Australia, and England to consult with us. Our three head winemakers have been at the winery for 35 to 40 years, since before the privatization. We also have two new winemakers from this region, three chemists in the house, and a certified lab.” Avdi added, “In fact, we have more certifications in the lab than the government of Kosovo! Our up-to-date technology allows us to better analyze the wine.” Avdi went on to say, “My father’s main objective, along with his nephew, was to give the people of Kosovo jobs and hope. We want to take the original business plan and expand it. We’re operating at one-third capacity and need to grow. We need to plant new seeds, open new markets and give the people of Kosovo more hope, more jobs and push the industry forward.” Avni said, “We want to put Kosovo on the map as a great wine region. We’ve already won over 100 awards for our wines from all over the world.” Since the purchase, they have planted close to 500 hectares of new vineyards. Seeds were planted in 2017, covering 50 hectares for their organic joint project with the European Commission, and they introduced Stone Castle’s first organic vintage in 2020. A small portion of the Stone Castle estate is certified organic, and they are slowly making their way into converting the older vineyards. The winery is committed to sustainable practices and is currently working on its Kosher certification.  Stone Castle Vineyard In addition to the state-of-the-art facilities, their underground wine cellar has an impressive storage capacity of 50,000 HL wooden barrels.  Part of Stone Castle cellars Stone Castle is transitioning from bulk market to bottle. They use entirely different tanks for the estate as opposed to locally grown grapes. And they have created a 3-tier system for the farmers to encourage them to reach the first-class level and produce the best quality grapes possible.  Stone Castle grows 19 varieties of grapes, including Vranç, an indigenous variety genetically related to Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz (this spelling is used in deference to the Australian winemaker who they consulted with), and Chardonnay. Stone Castle is now distributing these premium varieties in the United States. With over 250 people employed full-time and up to 700 part-time seasonal workers at Stone Castle, Rrustem is fulfilling a dream of giving jobs and hope to the people of Kosovo. In addition, the winery is producing some very impressive wines. Here is a sampling of six wines from the estate.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Ancient Vranç Gjergj Kastrioti 2018 This wine is 100% Vranç and pays tribute to Gjergj Kastrioti, the Albanian prince and symbol of national unification whose name is featured on the label. Grapes are hand-harvested from the Lisdrevish vineyard that sits at an altitude between 1148 ft. and 1475 ft. The wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for nine months. This was my first experience drinking Vranç, and it was delicious! Aromas of red berries, baking spice, and earth segue onto the palate with notes of dark cherry, pomegranate, plum, blackberry, and spice. It is a rich wine that will pair well with grilled meat, hearty stews, and seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Shiraz 2018 The grapes for this 100% Shiraz are hand-harvested from the estate’s Izbishte vineyard located in the northeastern part of the property. The micro-climate here contributes to the production of high-quality grapes with optimal acidity. The wine is aged for 12 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. There are many berry aromas with dark plum and blueberry dominating the palate, with soft tannins and a touch of pepper on a lengthy finish. Serve with game, fowl, fish, or pasta with vegetables. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Merlot Selection 2018 The finest grapes for this 100% Merlot are hand-harvested from the Fushe – Zoqisht vineyard, which has high sun exposure sitting at an altitude of 1475 ft. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 20 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit and violet spill onto the palate with notes of cherry, berries, earth, and a touch of minerality. It is smooth and easy to drink. Pair with appetizers, spicy cuisine, pasta, or grilled chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Chardonnay Reserve 2018 The best Chardonnay grapes from the estate are hand-harvested from two high-altitude vineyards, Sapniq and Izbisht. The wine is aged for six months in French oak barrels. The nose offers a lovely floral bouquet and a hint of baking spice. This is a clean, crisp wine with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, and a soft creamy texture. It is fresh and balanced. Serve as an aperitif or pair with assorted cheese, grilled fish, seafood, or light pasta dishes. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 The grapes for this 100% Cabernet are hand-harvested from the Nashpall mountainside vineyard during late harvest. Vineyard exposure to prolonged sunlight contributes to quality grapes. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. A bouquet of dark fruit and a touch of earth segue onto the palate with silky tannins and notes of plum, black raspberry, and cherry. A touch of herbs and pepper linger on a long finish. Pair with grilled meat, hearty soups or stews, seared tuna, and grilled vegetables. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $24 Gecaj Estate Owners Choice 2017 This is the signature wine of Stone Castle. And, what is more fitting than to have an eagle, the symbol of Kosovo, on the wine label? It is a 50/50 blend of the estate’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The fruit is hand-harvested from the Izbisht vineyard at an altitude of 1640 ft. and receives 10 to 12 hours of sun each day. The wine is aged for 24 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. This is a vibrant and elegant wine with seductive aromas of red fruit, vanilla, and spice. The palate is layered with black raspberry, plum, cherry, anise, fig, pepper, and hints of dark chocolate. Silky tannins add to the wine’s complexity and depth. Pair with grilled meat, hearty stews, game, pasta, or a charcuterie platter. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $80  Photo credit: Penny Weiss I asked why their father chose “Stone Castle” as the winery name. Avdi said, “In my house, we had a kulla that went back four generations. Kullas are made of mountain rocks in the region, and Kosovo has an abundance of granite and marble. Kullas were created as fortresses, but also where rules and regulations of the towns were made. If a rule was broken, it was discussed and judged in the kulla. When the Serbs invaded Kosovo during the Yugoslavian War, they were ordered to destroy as many kullas as possible using rockets and grenades. In 2001, my father went back to Kosovo and rebuilt the family kulla, which is the largest in the region right now. It is a historic site, and he did it for the people to show that you can’t destroy us; we will build back up! My father knew that one day Stone Castle would be an international enterprise, and so he named it in honor of the destroyed kullas and for the people of Kosovo. The Stone Castle Winery entrance is new, and a tribute to the kullas destroyed in the war.”  Stone Castle Entrance  Aerial View of Winery As Rrustem’s sons continue to fulfill their father’s vision by growing, expanding the business, and providing more jobs and opportunities for a recovering Kosovo, they also have some impressive plans in the making. They are building a beautiful resort, a fairy tale stone castle, on the premises. It will be seven stories tall, with 82 guest rooms, a world-class restaurant, pools, golf course, bicycle and horseback riding, vineyard trails, and wine tastings. They said, “It is a destination spot for the Balkans.” I’m ready to book my reservation!
As we concluded our interview, I asked if there might be anything else they would like to say. Without hesitation, Avdi answered, “Kosovo is ready for the world!” Avni and Arben nodded in agreement. And, I concur! I will end this article with a quote from Rrustem. “For us, Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery convey a special sense of place, history, and growing traditions. Our wines will help share positive images of Kosovo, our people’s potential and capabilities.” Until next time... Cheers! Penina This article was originally published in Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It is an intriguing name for a wine, ‘The Paring.’ And if seen on a wine shelf, it is rather hard to walk by this collection of wines without checking them out.  Photo courtesy of The Paring The brand was created by winemaker, Matt Dees whose focus and intent was to produce a line of wines that would complement a multitude of foods, from decadent feasts to casual fare. And, he succeeded. The knife depicted on the label is a paring knife, a versatile knife known for its infinite number of kitchen uses that no respectable chef would be without. The paring knife is a clever logo for these wines.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss In a nutshell, Matt Dees, who is in his early forties, was born in Kansas City, studied plant and soil science in Vermont, where he helped kick start a winery, and then returned to Kansas for a short time to work at another winery. He eventually worked as a winemaker for Staglin Family Vineyard in Napa and Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. However, his chance to really shine came in 2004 when he took on the position as winemaker for JONATA, The Hilt, and The Paring in Santa Barbara County, owned by billionaire Stanley Kroenke. Kroenke also happens to own Screaming Eagle and the Los Angelos Rams.  Matt Dees, Winemaker Photo credit: The Paring JONATA is their premium wine and is based in Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley. The Hilt, a more moderately priced brand, is located in the Sta. Rita Hills. The wines for The Paring, created in 2006, are a cut from each estate and produced from AVA vineyard blocks that are either too young or don’t fit into the vintage style of JONATA and The Hilt wines. The grapes for The Paring are sourced primarily from three Santa Barbara regions on the vanguard: Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, and Santa Maria Valley. Here are three of The Paring wines sent to me for review. These wines are produced with minimal intervention out of the belief that “90% of the winemaking happens in the vineyard.” They are a true expression of Californias style wines.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The Paring Sauvignon Blanc 2019
100% Sauvignon Blanc aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French oak, and 1/3 stainless steel tanks for ten months. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. Beautiful notes of melon, white stone fruit, and citrus segue onto the palate with refreshing acidity and a touch of lemon zest. Texture, depth, and character define this wine. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with spicy cuisine, grilled fish, or bbq chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $25 The Paring Syrah 2018 Grapes for this 100% Syrah are sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley. The wine is aged in French oak, 35% new, and 65% neutral for 22 months. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. This wine is all that you would expect of a Syrah. The nose offers violet notes, dark berries, and pepper. A lush palate of juicy dark berries, earth, baking spice, and pepper are accompanied by silky tannins and a long finish. Fire up the grill and be confident that anything you cook, this wine will pair well with. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25 The Paring Red 2017 This Bordeaux style wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. It is aged in French oak, 55% new, and 45% neutral for 22 months. It is unfined and unfiltered. Lovely aromas of dark fruit, herbs, and earth set the stage for this smooth and structured wine. A rich, multi-layered palate of lush ripe fruit, dark plum, spice, anise, tobacco, and cocoa add character to a delicious experience and palate-pleasing wine. Pair with appetizers, cheese, grilled meat, fish, stews, and vegetables. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $25 These are expressive and all-around wines for the price tag. I’m impressed! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com It is no secret that I love Riesling, especially German Riesling. So it is a touch ironic that my first trip to Germany brought me to the beautiful Franken wine region where Riesling only plays a minor role in production. Riesling is a late-harvest grape, and because Franken experiences typical continental weather with warm, dry summers and long cold winters, the risk of frost damage to the grapes is significant. The most favorable conditions for growing Riesling are moderately warm summers, adequate rainfall amounts during vegetation, and a long ripening period allowing the grapes to develop and retain their fruity acidity.  Ripe Riesling clusters. Photo credit: Zilliken Estates My return trip to Germany was supposed to be an in-depth exploration of the Mosel wine region and its mouth-watering Rieslings. However, it was not to be, with travel put on hold for the past year, and then some. Not to be deterred, I recently had the pleasure of chatting virtually with four Mosel wine producers, sampled their expressive wines, and added their thoughts to my reviews. It was the next best thing to being there! Riesling is Germany’s most celebrated grape variety. With thirteen wine regions and over 102,000 hectares of vineyards, Germany boasts the world’s largest vineyard area of 23,000 hectares dedicated to Riesling! Riesling was first documented in 1435 in the Rheingau region and soon after that in Mosel. More than half of all the vineyard areas in the Mosel, Rheingau, and Mittelrhein are planted with Riesling.  Riesling is a white aromatic grape capable of producing vastly diverse wines depending on the type of soil, altitude and microclimate. The wines range in style from bone-dry to succulently sweet and from table wines to high-quality collectibles. These wines are usually variety labeled and classified by ripeness and the level of sugar in the grape juice called “must weight”. There are two classification systems in Germany: the traditional system and modern VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) systems developed in the 21st century to reflect climate change. VDP is not part of the official German wine law. With the VDP system, the quality of the wine is based upon its origin (terroir). Its purpose is to highlight the value of the best vineyard sites in Germany. For this article, we will explore the traditional system. The traditional system has four quality categories: Deutscher Wein (a table wine category) small quantities are produced. Landwein A protected geographical indication. At least 85% of these grapes must originate in the region named on the label. It is typically dry or off-dry. Qualitätswein (QbA) A protected designation of origin and accounts for the majority of German wines. 100% of the grapes must originate from one district inside the 13 wine regions. Prädikatswein In addition to the same rules that apply to the Qualitätswein category, the Prädikatswein category indicates a superior quality wine with strict requirements. Within the traditional system, Riesling is also divided into levels of ripeness that the grapes have achieved by the time they are harvested. These levels are: Kabinett Light dry to off-dry, low alcohol. Grapes are harvested during the regular season. Spätlese Late harvest wines. More intense in flavor and concentration Auslese Noble wines are usually but not always sweet. It is made from hand-selected bunches of very ripe grapes and can only be made in the best years with enough warm weather. Beerenauslese made from overripe grapes usually infected with noble rot. Each berry is hand-picked. It is known for rich and sweet dessert wines. Trockenbeerenauslese These are rich, sweet, honey-like wines. Grapes are overripe, shriveled, hand-selected, and usually infected with noble rot. Eiswein made from overripe grapes that have frozen on the vine. Grapes are harvested only under exact weather conditions and pressed while frozen. Mosel  Map of Mosel Mosel wine region is a cool-climate region and the most famous of the 13 wine regions in Germany. It is renowned for its terraced vineyards and age-worthy Rieslings. Mosel has one of the coolest climates of the major German wine regions. The vineyards here enjoy a continental climate with warm summers and long growing seasons, contributing to the grapes ripening and help create heightened flavors and low alcohol levels. Mosel expands over 8,800 hectares with the beautiful Mosel River snaking its way through the region. Many of the vineyards are located alongside the river and are among the steepest in Germany and the world! With half averaging a slope of over 30 degrees and reaching inclines of 60 to 70 degrees, it is quite breathtaking! The Bremmer Calmont, which is the steepest vineyard in Europe, is located here. Needless to say, tending the vineyards is labor-intensive and can be dangerous.  Photo courtesy of Fritz Haag Mosel is referred to in three sections: Upper Mosel, Middle (Mittelmosel) Mosel, and Lower Mosel, with most of the vineyards located in Middle Mosel. Within these three sections are six areas with approximately 5,446 hectares of Riesling planted. Red and blue slate dominate the soil here, with greywacke, sandy, gravelly, and shell-limestone found throughout the six areas. Without further ado, let me introduce (in no particular order) four remarkable wine producers in Mosel. Weingut Fritz Haag Fritz Haag is a small family estate established in 1605 and located in the heart of Middle Mosel in the village of Brauneberg. One of several Mosel legends, the winery is noted for its Rieslings’ extreme purity and mineral intensity. Wilheim Haag, who guided the estate to a world-renowned reputation and was the first to be the recipient of the “Winemaker of The Year” award in 1994, sadly passed away in 2020. His son Oliver, the 12th generation, took over the reins for his father in 2005 and is now the estate owner.  Oliver Haag – Photo credit: Fritz Haag Fritz Haag has 24 hectares of vineyards (all exclusively planted to Riesling) that include the world-renowned vineyards “Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr” and “Brauneberg Juffer.” The combination of the deep slate soils and superb micro-climate of both vineyards make up the foundation for some of the most elegant and intensely flavored Riesling wines of the Mosel region. Many of the vineyards are 25-30 years old, with some parcels, especially in the heart of the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr, are over 50-80 years old. In addition to his formal school training to become a winemaker, Oliver worked at many estates throughout Germany, South Africa, and Madeira, Portugal, before returning to his family estate. “I learned a lot. But most of my education is from drinking wine, learning, and drinking!” Tell me about your family estate. Oliver: We are a family estate that produces wines from our vineyards. It is essential for us to know where our grapes come from and focus on making high-quality wines. We invest our time in producing wines that have a long potential life. How has climate change impacted your vineyards? Oliver: It is getting warmer and drier, with extreme weather patterns. Rain comes in shorter periods with more intense storms. We must pay attention, take care of erosion, and make sure the vines get enough water during dry spells. We must pick the grapes at the right time, ripe but not overripe, only healthy grapes. Most importantly, we must select, select, select! And we have to be more effective in the winery. What is your take on the 2020 vintage? Oliver: Considering the extreme weather with a warm and dry summer, 2020 was uncomplicated, not stressful, and the harvest was slow. We needed to make sure that the grapes didn’t get sunburn, but in general, the grapes were very healthy. For the drier wines, we picked a little earlier to get the acidity and freshness. 2020 is a classic vintage with a lot of finesse and elegance in the wines, not as much acidity, but smoother and rounder. Do you have a favorite style of Riesling? Oliver: No, it all depends on my mood! Riesling is so interesting, and the different faces are so nice. The many styles offer a wonderful palate of different fruits, very classic wines!  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Fritz Haag Estate Riesling 2019 The grapes are harvested from steep slate-soil vineyards and made in an off-dry style. It is light and refreshing with notes of peach, citrus, minerality, and hints of floral. Oliver says, “Not really dry, not really sweet…it’s in the middle. A tri-style wine with wonderful fruit, refreshing, with lively and crisp acidity. It is easy drinking.” Alcohol: 11% SRP: $20 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2019 The grapes are harvested early from the dramatic steep Brauneberg hillside vineyard. This Riesling is delicious and lively with notes of floral, lemon, peach, and racy acidity. Oliver says, “This is our business card. It is very fine. A wonderful balance of sweetness, acidity, and freshness. Great aging potential of up to 30 years, but fun to drink now.” Alcohol: 8.5% SRP: $26 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhaus is a legendary and historic estate located in the Ruwer region of Mosel. The estate dates back to Roman times, with evidence of winemaking even then. Until the end of the 18th century, it was managed by the Abbey of Saint Maximin. Today, it is managed by the sixth generation, Maximin von Schubert, who told me that he has been working in the vineyards since he was six years old.  Maximin Von Schubert. Photo credit: Maximin Grünhaus The estate has 77 acres of vineyards, of which Riesling occupies 91%. The estate lies at the foot of a long and steep south-facing slope on the bank of the tiny Ruwer river. This river is located about 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) from the Mosel River, where they join. The land is divided into three vineyards, each with a distinct terroir that reflects the unique character of the wines produced here. Bruderberg is the smallest of three vineyards and once upon a time provided wine for the monks. These wines tend to be very spicy with a rustic slate-mineral quality. The Herrenberg vineyard was once used to make special wines for the Abbey’s choirmasters. It sits on 40 acres and benefits from deep soils, good water retention, and a base of red Devonian slate. The Abtsberg vineyard is the estate’s finest site. It covers 35 acres, of which parts have been planted with vines of over 1,000 years. Wines from this vineyard were served at the table of the Abbot (Abt). The slope of the vineyard reaches a 70% gradient with a subsoil of blue Devonian slate. These wines are finely structured with subtle minerality, generous fruit, racy acidity, but delicate. They are considered one of the longest-lived Rieslings of the region. I asked Maximin for his take on climate change. Maximin: There are many impacts. We have weeks of dryness in the late summer and then heavy rain. The warmer, wetter climate brings new diseases, taking probably 1% of the vines each year. Harvest is about three weeks earlier than compared to my childhood. With warmer harvests, the challenge is in keeping grapes healthy until the end of harvest. Maximin’s thoughts on the 2020 vintage. Maximin: It was a beautiful spring, with very few workers due to Covid. We had a dry summer, but otherwise perfect. Harvest began with a beautiful Pinot and Sekt harvest, then lots of rain for 12 days, but a beautiful three-week finish to the season. I love Maximin’s answer to my question about his favorite style of Riesling. Maximin: I would prefer, ‘What Rieslings don’t you like?’, that would be easier to answer! I love Riesling when it’s multi-layered, acidity-driven, elegant, fine, clear, and fresh. I love Riesling when it’s dry or off-dry, or when it’s sweet or noble sweet, paired with tension and acidity.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Maximin Grünhaus Monopol 2019 The grapes for this wine are sourced from younger vines in both the Herrenberg and Abtsberg vineyards. The 2019 vintage brought meager yields due to a severe May frost, losing 50% of the harvest. What remained became a beautiful, fresh and pure Riesling. It is mineral-driven and crisp with notes of melon, white stone fruit, and a touch of herbs. Maximin says, “This is the entrance gate to Maximin Grünhaus dry Rieslings. It will be called Schloss Riesling from 2020 on. It is pure Riesling joy, elegant, spicy, racy, and that’s only the entry-level.” Alcohol: 12% SRP: $22 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Kabinett 2019 Grapes for this wine are sourced from the Herrenberg vineyard. As noted with the previous wine, 50% of the harvest was lost due to a devastating May frost. The wine presents with delicate and juicy notes of peach, soft lemon, apricot, and spice. Very fresh, clean, and a perfect balance of minerality and acidity. Maximin says, “Dancingly elegant, pure deep slaty style, with the typical herbal, spicy character, perfect acidity. Food pairing won’t be possible because you will finish the bottle before eating!” Alcohol: 7.5% SRP: $34 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling GG 2018 Grapes are harvested from the Abtsberg vineyard from vines that average 40-year-old. The soil here is predominately blue slate. Due to its steep slopes and south-facing exposure, it is the warmest site at Grünhaus. GG stands for Grosses Gewächs, the German term for a dry wine from a Grosse Lage (grand cru) vineyard. This is a beautifully structured wine. Notes of apple, apricot, peach, minerality, lemon custard, and vibrant acidity dance around the palate. This wine will age well. Maximin says, “An Abtsberg classic of this hot summer of 2018. Even though it has been hot, we can still keep this elegance and salty mineral clearness with a structure influenced by the warm year. Superb dry wine.” Alcohol: 13% SRP: $70 Dr. Loosen The Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for over 200 years. Ernst (Erni) Loosen, owner and 5th generation, is considered one of the most iconic and influential Riesling producers in the world today. Since taking ownership in 1988, the estate has grown substantially. With vines that are up to 140 years old in his top sites, Erni has transformed the vineyards by restricting crop size, prohibiting chemical fertilization, demanding strict fruit selection and gentle cellar practices. Erni studied winemaking and viticulture at the University of Geisenheim and archeology at the University of Mainz.  Ernst (Erni) Lossen Photo courtesy of Dr. Loosen The Dr. Loosen estate is located in the village of Bernkastel in the heart of the Mosel Valley. All of the estate’s ten major vineyards are designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru). The prevalent soil types here are blue slate, red slate, and red volcanic sandstone.  Dr. Loosen Estate. Photo credit: Dr. Loosen Erni has used climate change to his advantage. Erni: Due to climate change, we’ve seen an average of higher ripeness of 1 to 1.5 potential alcohol sugar ripeness compared to an average sugar ripeness of 9 to 10 potential alcohol 30 years ago. That makes a total nowadays of 10.5 – 12 potential alcohol sugar ripeness, which is still low compared to wines in the New World or South of Europe. We are quite happy that we have a little more ripeness, giving us a great chance to make excellent dry wines with not too high alcohol. Do you prefer a particular style of Riesling? Erni: I love the dry GG (Grand Cru vineyard) wines produced 12 to 24 months in the barrel on the full yeast without batonnage. I love these traditional fruity style Riesling Kabinett wines – especially with some age of 10 to 15 years. Would you like to share a thought or story? Erni: “A great wine begins in your head.” What I mean by this is that if you do not go out and try what the great producers of the world are doing, then you may not know what great is. You first need to experience what great is, and then you can formulate in your head where you stand and where you need to be. For me, great wines need to be able to age, and to achieve this goal; I need to plan in advance how to get there; what needs to be done in the vineyard, when to harvest, what fermentation method, how long, and in what type of vessel to age the wine and the list goes on. Without a vision and experience, I think it is nearly impossible to make great wine.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2019 Grapes for this wine are sourced from the famous “sundial” vineyard in the village of Wehlen. The classic blue slate soil gives the wines a delicate, crisp acidity. The wine is fresh, aromatic, and light with white stone fruit, lemon, and minerality. It is a perfect off-dry Riesling with a nice balance of salinity on the finish. Erni says, “What the Ürziger Würzgarten is to Spätlese, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is to Kabinett. This is the prototypical Mosel Kabinett. This vineyard has breath-taking slopes and stunning blue slate soil. It is a perfect welcome drink.” Alcohol: 8.5% SRP: $28 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2019 This is a late harvest wine with a few extra weeks of hang time. Grapes are harvested from the incredibly steep Ürziger Würzgarten vineyard with volcanic sandstone soil. It is called the “spice garden” vineyard because it produces wines with exotic, spicy aromas and tropical fruit flavors. Up to 130-year-old vines can be found here. This wine is sumptuous, juicy, and bursting with crisp acidity. Erni says, “Truly a desert island Spätlese if I had to choose one vineyard for this style of wine to be stranded with. It is tropical, spicy, layered, and complex, with beautiful sweetness balanced by an elegant finish. If there were Thai food on the desert island, this would be a perfect pairing. Drink this wine young for enjoyable primary fruit flavors and aromas, or lay it down for 20 years for an amazing experience!” Alcohol: 8% SRP: $34 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen GG 2018 Due to the iron-infused, red slate soil in the Erdener Treppchen vineyard, these wines are muscular and complex, with an intense mineral finish. According to Dr. Loosen, the vineyard is so steep that a long time ago, stone steps were built into the hillside to help workers reach the vines. This wine is kept on the full lees for one year before bottling, allowing for greater texture. Although this is a dry wine, the juiciness of Riesling comes through, delivering peach, citrus, green apple, and lots of minerality and crisp acidity. Erni says, “Old vines, steep slopes, red slate soil combined with winemaking techniques from over 100 years ago help make this wine truly unique; racy and mineral, but still balanced with a juiciness that makes you want to have another glass.” Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $54 Weingut Zilliken Weingut Zilliken is a highly regarded family-owned and run estate that dates back to 1742. Located in the Saar Valley, Zilliken is known for its premium quality Rieslings. After a 1944 bombing raid that destroyed the estate and cellar, Marianne Geltz, the owner, with tenacious energy, continued the family wine-growing tradition. She married Fred Zilliken in 1947, and from that point on, the estate was referred to as Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken. The Zilliken cellar is the deepest in the Saar Valley, extending three stories below ground! The depth creates ideal natural conditions of 100% humidity and a constant temperature around 52 degrees. Their vineyards, of which two are Grosse Lage, are devoted to 100% Riesling. They make Estate, Village, and Grosse Lage wines.  Photo credit: Zilliken Winemaker and owner Dorothee Zilliken is the 11th generation. She studied viticulture and oenology at the University of Applied Science in Geisenheim and worked at some well-known estates in Germany, France, and South Africa. She and her husband, Hanno, work together with her parents, benefiting from their experience.  Dorothee in the vineyard. Photo credit: Zilliken Dorothee talks about the impact of climate change. Dorothee: One of the big topics of the future of the vineyards is the availability of water needed at the right time. Since the vintage 2003, we are covering all our vineyards with mulch – as a natural fertilizer, so all the rain = falling during the year is captured in the soil. The big advantage for the vines is to have enough water to find all the [nutrients] with their roots and to be able to build up some acidity. What is your take on the 2020 harvest season? Dorothee: I really love the 2020 vintage because it is again a very classical Saar-vintage with all its inimitable elegance and finesse. Like usual, the harvest season is the time of the year to be so tired because you have to work so hard and also physically so hard, but it is also the time of the year when you are full of motivation because day-by-day you see and taste what it is all for. A great feeling you can’t describe. I have asked everyone what their favorite style of Riesling is. And, you? Dorothee: My favorite style of Riesling is showing me all the advantages of a perfect white wine: expressive but with finesse, elegance, and filigree; long-lasting but weightless; fresh and deep, mineral, focused, loving the playful youth and the deep, rich (sometimes smoky) age. Animating, so you are looking forward to the next glass…  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Zilliken Rausch Kabinett Riesling 2019
The grapes for this wine are harvested from the Rausch vineyard, a Grosse Lage site. It is known for its gray slate and greenish volcanic rock, which keeps the soil well-drained and adds a focused mineral edge to the wines. Wines from this vineyard can age well for decades. This Kabinett is characterized by a delicate palate of floral, honeydew melon, peach, herbs, minerality, and vibrant acidity. It is elegant. Dorothee says,“It’s like eating a big bowl of fruit salad with a lot of melons in it. So juicy and fruity that it makes your mouth water. Besides all this fruitiness, there is elegance, finesse, and only 8.5% alcohol, so you really can ENJOY the bottle now or in the next 20 years.” Alcohol: 8.5% SRP: $44 Zilliken Rausch Spätlese Riesling 2019 This is another outstanding wine from the Rausch vineyard. It is a stunning late-harvest wine with juicy layers of citrus, tropical fruit, and white stone fruit that fuse with minerality and crisp acidity. A refreshing finish with a hint of lemon zest begs for another sip! Dorothee says, “It shows a lot of tropical fruits like mango, passion fruit, and a hint of pineapple. Very animated. It’s great in combination with cheese, as an aperitif, or in combination with hot and spicy cuisine. Enjoy now and the next 25 years.” Alcohol: 8% SRP: $64 I’ll end this article with some shared thoughts from Dorothee. Dorothee: For me, there are not many professions in the world that are so sensual. You can see every year what your soil and your vineyards can achieve. You can accompany the growth of the vines, the leaves, and the berries. You can harvest them at the right time and enjoy this climax of the vegetation period, given as a present by nature! It is knowing how to work with some tools of the trade that my grandfather used to work with (for example, our oak barrels). It is the ability to benefit from my family’s great experiences and be allowed to think about the future. I can take the strength of nature and family for nature and family and take in every breath and sip of these Rieslings… Until next time… Cheers! Penina This story was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Many of us are longing to travel again. I know that I certainly am! I miss the excitement of exploring new places, tasting local cuisine, and sipping wine while walking through the vineyards. For the past year, and then some, we have all had to abide by “stay at home” orders and limited travel excursions.  Photo credit: Massimo Virgilio During the pandemic, I have been fortunate to be part of many Zoom tastings from around the world. I’ve met with winery owners and winemakers to taste their products from the comfort of my living room. Of course, it doesn’t compare to physically traveling, but it does allow my palate to be transported out of my home. I’ve been able to virtually experience the climate, soil, and history that awaits me in each glass of wine. Recently my palate took a trip to southern Italy, often referred to as the Mezzogiorno (Midday region) due to the intense sunshine at midday. Southern Italy is located in the lower part of the Italian “boot,” where some of Italy’s oldest and most important historical towns are located. The Adriatic Sea borders it on the east coast, the Tyrrhenian Sea on the west or Mediterranean coast, and the Ionian Sea to the south.  Southern Italy is noted for its expression of quality wines produced throughout its wine-growing regions of Molise, Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria, Sicily, and Sardinia. Recently, an Italian wine magazine, Cronache di Gusto launched a wine competition called Sud Top Wine, dedicated to awarding southern Italian wines produced in Sicily, Puglia, Basilicata, Campania, and Sardinia. I received three of these awarded wines, two from Sardinia and one from Sicily.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Quartomoro di Sardegna Vermentino di Sardegna DOC VRM 2016 Piero Cella, winemaker, and owner for Quartomoro, initially used the winery, which he bought in 2009, to experiment and test ideas to learn more about his grapes and wine. This lab eventually evolved into what it is today, “a workshop of ideas” where new wines are created. Piero has over 30 years of experience as a winemaker. This wine is 100% Vermentino sourced from the Marrubiu vineyards, where vines were planted in 1978. The wine spends two years in steel, of which 5% is in oak tonneaux. “This semi-aromatic white grape was introduced in Sardinia 150 years ago from the Iberian Peninsula via Corsica. In Sardinian, it is called ‘Axina de mesa’ or ‘Axina bionda’. The production of Vermentino has steadily increased since the 1960s, especially in Gallura (thanks to the DOCG appellation), becoming the most important Sardinian white grape variety.” Quartomoro  Photo credit: Penny Weiss The color of this wine is lemon yellow with vibrant aromas of floral, white stone fruit, spice, and citrus. The aromas segue onto the palate with a tapestry of minerality and a touch of floral. Nutty notes and lemon zest linger on the finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with seafood, grilled chicken, and spicy Asian cuisine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $30 Giuseppe Sedilesu Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva Ballu Tunda 2015 Giuseppe Sedilesu is a family-owned and operated winery. It is internationally known for its production of Cannonau. Giuseppe founded the winery over 35 years ago, beginning with one hectare of vineyards. It has expanded over 12 times since then. Cannonau is a member of the Grenache family, but whether it is indigenous to Sardinia is debatable, especially among Sardinians! This wine is 100% Cannonau and made with organic grapes. Fermentation takes place spontaneously for 30-45 days in barrique at controlled temperatures. The wine is then aged in bottle for nine months before being released on the market.  Photo credit: Penny Weis This wine is ruby red with aromas of red fruit and spice. The palate offers lush notes of raspberry, plum, sour cherry, herbs, spice, and balsamic notes with a hint of tobacco on the finish. It is beautifully balanced between sweet and savory. Serve with grilled meat, chicken, seared tuna, and aged cheese. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $45-$50 Cantine Pellegrino Pantelleria DOC Bianco Isesi 2018 Cantine Pellegrino was founded in 1880 and is based in Marsala. It is a family-owned and run winery that is now in its sixth generation. They have vineyards in four territories of Sicily, one of which is Pantelleria Island. Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) is an indigenous white grape of Sicily and is primarily grown on Pantelleria Island. Zibibbo is made in both a sweet and dry wine. The grapes for this 100% Zibibbo wine are hand-harvested and aged for 12 months on lees in steel tanks.  Photo credit: Penny Weiss This is a dry and refreshing wine with a pale yellow color. The aroma is heavenly with honeysuckle and jasmine floral notes, white stone fruit, tropical fruit, and a hint of herbs. The palate offers white peach, apricots, herbs, mineral notes, and a touch of sapidity. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, light pasta, or appetizers.
Until we can all travel again, which I hope is very soon, let’s pour a glass of wine and let our palate do the traveling. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com This story was originally published on Santé Magazine. There are many interpretations and symbolisms throughout the world concerning the dragonfly. In some cultures, it represents transformation and exemplifies the light and joy we should be embracing. In other cultures, the dragonfly signifies good luck and is perceived as being magical. In some parts of the world, it is believed that if you encounter a dragonfly, positive transformation is on the way, and you are about to emerge forever changed and much wiser. The dragonfly has a short life of approximately six months, and in some cultures, it represents that one must live life to its fullest. For me, dragonflies are magical and have played an important role in my life for many years. In fact, I have one tattooed on my ankle! But that is another story.  Photo credit: Dorothea Oldani So, what does all of this have to do with wine? It begins with a talented winemaker and entrepreneur, a beautiful bottle and label, and of course, the wine!  Photo courtesy of Blu Giovello Piera Martellozzo is an established winemaker and entrepreneur with three generations and over a century of history behind her. In 1899 Piera’s grandfather, Giovanni, founded Winery Piera Martellozzo in Padua province, located in northern Italy’s Veneto wine region. Piera’s father, Mario, is credited for developing the winery. In 1992, Mario passed the baton and entrusted Piera with managing the family’s small wine estate.  Piera Martellozzo Twenty-nine years later, under the guidance and tenacity of Piera, the winery has grown and expanded to include premium vineyards in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and Trentino. With a focus on indigenous grapes, high-quality vineyards, and sustainability, including an organic wine range introduced in 1998, Piera has stood behind her mission to produce quality wines. She focuses on blending traditional production methods with acknowledgment of contemporary times and the future. Piera’s emphasis was initially on the production of Prosecco, but she eventually expanded her repertoire to include a more diverse “wine” menu. Her expansion included Friuli Venezia Giulia, a wine region known for its white wine production. In San Quirino in Pordenone province, she purchased a comprehensive winery, which is now home base.  Winery and Vineyards Through a virtual conversation, I asked Piera to share her story behind the inception of the Blu Giovello brand and the dragonfly’s symbolism. Piera: “Blu Giovello brand came to life 25 years ago from a four-hands project between our winery and our US importer, with whom we are still working! His expertise in the US market and our contribution of wine and ideas allowed us to develop a very successful brand. What we wanted to convey is a symbol of Italian style, made in Italy. Speaking of the single details, the origin of the name Giovello comes from the combination of the Italian words Giovane (young) and Bello (beautiful). The flying dragonfly is a symbol of harmony and prosperity. I wanted to put all the lightness, joy, and elegance of the dragonfly as an invitation to celebrate life and freedom from conventions. Blu refers to the wine’s origins. The blue color of the bottle refers to one of Italy’s typical colors, reminding us of the intense color of the sky and the waves of the Mediterranean Sea.” The brand’s wines have increased by 35% over the last five years and 90,000 cases sold worldwide. In addition to the Pinot Grigio DOC and Prosecco DOC Frizzante that I received, the Blue Giovello line also includes Prosecco DOC Extra Dry Spumante, Prosecco Rosé Sparkling, a still Rosé, and a still and sparkling Moscato. Reviews  Photo credit: Penny Weiss Blu Giovello Pinot Grigio DOC Delle Venezie
The grapes for this wine are 100% Pinot Grigio and are sourced from vineyards at 656 ft. above sea level. Delle Venezie is widely known for its production of light and crisp Pinot Grigio. Fluctuation in temperature between day and night adds to the development of aromatics in the skin. And the breezy and cool climate coming from the Alps help to maintain fresh acidity in the wines. Aromas: Citrus, pear, and a hint of floral Palate: Tart apples, melon, and a touch of white stone fruit. It is refreshing, crisp, and light. Serve with soft cheese, grilled chicken, or seafood. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $9.99 Piera said, “It is simply a must-have!” Blu Giovello Prosecco DOC Frizzante This wine is made with 100% Glera grapes sourced from the hills between the Dolomites and Venice in the Prosecco DOC area of production. The vineyards are at 1312 ft. above sea level. Situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Dolomites, the vineyards enjoy a unique microclimate that contributes to this wine’s characteristic flavors. The Charmat method is used for production, with the second fermentation taking place in stainless steel tanks for about one month. Aromas: Floral and fruit with apples and citrus Palate: Fine bubbles, peach, lemon zest, apple, and toast with a hint of minerality and crisp acidity. Serve as an aperitif or with light fare. Alcohol: 11% SRP: $11.99 Piera said, “It is the flagship of Italian sparkling wine!” Before Piera and I said our virtual good-byes, I asked her how climate change and Covid have impacted her and the challenges she might be facing in the vineyards and winery. Piera on climate change: Climate change is affecting all of us. We were among the first wineries to embrace a sustainable approach. We have been investing for more than twenty years in sustainable viticulture, believing in its huge potential: avoiding chemicals as much as possible, respecting the land and the vine. We were among the first in Italy to invest in a green productive process; we have always embraced technology that will enable us to preserve each wine’s typical features, such as using microfiltration. Furthermore, over the years, we have installed a photovoltaic system that allows us to produce almost all the energy we need in the production processes. We have created a water treatment plant that allows us to depurate the wastewater coming from the production process so that it can be used again, and we have chosen to use lighter bottles. Our sustainable approach also involves packaging. When possible, we use recycled materials.” Piera on Covid: “Working with both the on- and off-trade channels, we were able to close 2020 at the same level as 2019. We have seen an increase in sales on the off-trade channel and monopolies (Canada and Sweden) and an inevitable decrease in the on-trade sales. We embraced all the challenges requested in order to offer the best safeguard conditions for all our team. We provided masks and made sure there was enough space for everybody to carry out their work in a totally safe environment, and we adopted home working for all those who could work from home. The winery is the people, they are the beating heart of it, and we have to preserve it.” Piera also spoke about the future. “A lot has been done already, but we still have much to do to keep up with the best green standards. The winery aims to keep prioritizing this aspect through investments, granting both wine quality and the sustainability of production processes that respect the environment and the people involved. We give thanks to what the land offers, and we owe her the greatest respect.” With spring around the corner, these are delightful and light wines to enjoy while sitting outside and watching the dance of the dragonflies! Until next time... Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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