“We’re embarking on a multi-generational adventure, exploring three of the best things in life: fathers, daughters, and wine.” Quote from fanddcellars.com The Fathers & Daughters Cellars represents three generations of fathers and daughters. The patriarch is Kurt Schoeneman, his daughter Sarah, Sarah’s husband Guy Pacurar, their daughter, Ella, and Guy’s older daughter, Taylor. The winery is located in Anderson Valley of the coastal region of Mendocino County in Northern California. Their story began in 1996 with Sarah Schoeneman helping her father Kurt Schoeneman research the perfect area to grow grapes. She found a parcel of land in the Anderson Valley, the Ferrington Vineyard, which was long neglected. Kurt, who was a builder, knew nothing about wine. So he wisely sought out the expertise of vineyard managers and winemakers in the industry while also taking courses in viticulture. With love and determination, the Ferrington Vineyard was restored and is today recognized for its premium quality grapes They have 72 acres under vine that include Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. The vineyard is especially noted for its signature fruit, Pinot Noir, in addition to a block of 40+ year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines. Most of the grapes for their wines are sourced from this vineyard. However, grapes for their rustic sparkling wine are sourced from Roederer’s Estate Vineyard. For many years F&D has sold their grapes to high-end labels without producing or bottling their own wine. However, that all changed with the first vintage for their own label in 2012. It also happened to be the birth year of Ella, Sarah and Guy’s daughter and the inspiration behind creating the label. Phil Baxter, a well-known and talented winemaker, was consulted about wine production. Not only did Phil oversee the production of their inaugural vintage of Ella’s Reserve Pinot Noir, he now oversees the winemaking for F&D’s successive vintages. To quote Guy regarding production, “Fathers & Daughters is a high-touch, small production family venture. You will find our fingerprints on every step of the process, from the harvest to the press, to the bottle. We produce all of our wines at Baxter Winery.” Here are three impressive wines that I received from Fathers & Daughters Cellars. Sarah’s Rustic Bubbles Sparkling Chardonnay 2018 The grapes for this 100% Chardonnay were sourced from the Roederer Estate. It is produced using the Pétillant-Naturel method (pét- nat), a very old technique for making natural wines. It is often referred to as Méthode Ancestrale, which predates the “traditional method”. Unlike traditional-method sparkling wines that go through two fermentations, Pétillant-Naturel goes through only one fermentation. The wine is allowed to ferment naturally in stainless steel barrels. When the sugar has dropped significantly, the wine is bottled, crown-capped and unfiltered to allow the yeast to complete fermentation in the bottle and under pressure. The result is an intense array of aromas, flavors, effervescence and yeast. F&D suggests serving the wine “deeply chilled”. And I suggest uncapping it gently over a sink with a wine glass close by. The foam that spews forth is both festive and quite aromatic! Apples, baked bread, floral and citrus tantalize the nose while the palate is entertained with a fine mousse texture and hints of lemon, apricot, tropical notes and a touch of minerality. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $21 Sauvignon Blanc 2019 The grapes for this wine were harvested from vines originally planted in the late 70s in the Ferrington Vineyard. Lovely aromas of floral, citrus and melon segue onto the palate with notes of ruby grapefruit, lime, sweet apple, a touch of minerality and herbs. This is a refreshing wine that blends sweet and savory with just the right amount of acidity. Alcohol: 12.8% SRP: $25 Ella’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2017 Twenty-five acres of Ferrington Vineyard is dedicated to multiple clones of Pinot Noir, the signature grape of this vineyard. The clones used for this wine are Pommard, known for its dark color, intense fruit and fragrant spice components and Waldenswil, known for its floral, spice and bright red fruit. The wine is aged 20 months in 25% once used and 75% neutral French oak barrels before bottling. This wine starts out with heady aromas of floral, baking spice, dark plum, berries and dark cherry. The palate offers juicy plum, strawberries, cherry, and a touch of toasted herbs rounded out with a dash of earth, nutmeg and minerality. It is vibrant, smooth, complex and beautifully balanced.
Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $52 Fathers & Daughters has succeeded in bottling the very essence of Ferrington Vineyard and is obviously a labor of love! I look forward to tasting their other wines! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] When I was attending college, my curriculum was mostly made up of science and math courses with a lot of time spent in labs. Unlike many of my classmates who did not share my enthusiasm, it was a treat for me to fill in my schedule with a few art, music and English classes. One of the highlights was a mythology course that almost changed the direction of my chosen path in life. I loved the stories about deities and their significance and influence in various cultures and history. So, one can imagine my delight when I was gifted a copy of The Mythology of Wine by Arthur George, a winemaker and mythologist. A book about wine and mythology? Yes! This is a well-written book that is only 160 pages but packed with fascinating information and quotes from religious writings to the classics such as Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. The author covers the importance of wine in mythology, in ancient civilizations, religion, rituals, and how these mythical stories have influenced today’s wine culture. It is an engaging and quick read. Arthur George is a retired lawyer living in Santa Barbara County, California. As George states, “I’m following my bliss as a viticulturist and winemaker, with my own vineyard.” He is also a mythologist, cultural historian and author of three additional books. He gives lectures and writes posts about the mythology of wine. I asked Arthur what motivated him to write this book. He replied, “My reasons for writing this book were threefold. First, it combines two of my major interests, mythology and wine. I am a longtime wine enthusiast who has built up a body of knowledge about wine over the years, and recently became a viticulturist and winemaker (now on my 5th vintage), which really deepened my knowledge of the subject and has allowed me to appreciate and evaluate wines better. That, in turn, led me further into wine mythology and history. Second, being a cultural historian, I saw that most wine enthusiasts, as well as certified wine professionals, don't know much about how wine was the subject of so many myths in the cultures of the ancient world, and how they in turn ultimately influenced today's wine culture and culture in general. There is a gap in wine education as currently practiced; it just doesn't address the subject. I wrote the book in part to fill that gap. And third, for most people, this is a novel subject and is both interesting and fun to talk about. The information in the book makes for good conversations at dinner and at cocktail parties. For this purpose, I wanted to make the book not too long or technical and easy to read.” If you love reading about wine, history, mythology and religion, then pour yourself a glass of wine and read this book! I will end this story with a quote taken from Chapter Five, Concluding Thoughts (first paragraph, page 153) from The Mythology of Wine.
“In the modern age we no longer believe the old wine myths and legends, except in Judeo-Christian belief in regard to wine-related stories in the Bible. By and large our society now thinks of wine in secular terms, not as something divine. But our psyche which produced the wine myths that satisfied our psychological needs for so many centuries has remained the same. Both Dionysus and Christ are still within us, and they are crying out for us to experience them. This suggests that wine still should have a place in enriching our emotional and spiritual lives.” Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Leave it to the third-generation Pasqua brothers to add a bit of wry humor and elegance to a bottle of wine. Always thinking outside the box and tending to break the rules when it comes to wine production, they recently introduced a new wine to their portfolio. Pasqua Vigneti é Cantine is a family-run business located in Verona in northeast Italy’s Veneto region. They have complete control over 741 acres of vineyards (1/3 is estate-owned) that spread from Lake Garda to Soave. (To read more about the winery, please refer to the menu on the right-hand side of this page.) Pasqua’s newest wine is called “HEY FRENCH, 1st Edition”. The inscription on the front label reads, “You could have done this but you didn’t.” The label is a nod to the French regions and winemakers that inspire the brothers. It is meant to be “gentle humor” and Alessandro Pasqua said, “Luckily there are many who enjoy a good joke! The first account to take this wine was a Michelin-starred French restaurant!” Although the label is a little lost on me, the wine itself is serious and captivating! This “First Edition” is a Super-Bianco blend of four vintages, 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017, the best four vintages of the last decade for the winery. Each vintage is a blend of 60% Garganega rounded out by Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are sourced from several parcels of a 4.5-hectare vineyard located on the Veronese side of Monte Calvarina in the easternmost section of Soave Classico. The vineyard reaches 600 meters above sea level, providing fresh and breezy summers and large temperature swings during the ripening period. Soil is of volcanic origin and provides the mineral expression and potential for long-lived wines. Each vintage went through the same vinification and aging process. All the wine was aged for six months in French oak tonneaux. (large barrels) The wine was then placed in steel tanks for further refinement Pasqua ‘Hey French’ Bianco Veneto IGT The color of this wine is golden yellow with soft aromas of floral, honeysuckle, minerality and a hint of nuts. Notes of floral, citrus, melon, pear and peach integrate nicely with minerality and acidity on the palate. This wine is complex and well structured, giving ample expression of the terroir. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $40 Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with seafood, light casseroles and vegetarian cuisine. I made a delicious Roasted Tomato and White Bean Stew with Escarole that paired beautifully with this wine! To the third-generation family members, I say, “Hey Pasqua brothers, you could have, you should have, and you did!”
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] In my home, one doesn’t need a special occasion or excuse to pop open a bottle of sparkling wine. And these days, the gentle sound of a cork being coaxed from a bottle of bubbly, is music to my ears! With the holidays upon us, having a few bottles of sparkling wine on hand will most certainly add a little sparkle to the festivities! And I highly endorse those occasional “just because” moments as well! Here are a few suggestions of sparkling wines from around the world ranging in price from $11 to $54.99 Casas del Mar Blanc de Blancs NV Cava Brut This Cava is produced by Casas del Mar estate located in Catalonia, Spain. It is a blend of 40% Xarello (from 70-year-old vines, 30% Macabeu and 30% Parallada. Grapes are harvested from the Penedès appellation in the Catalonia region. It is made using the Méthode Traditionnelle, the same method used in the Champagne district of France, where the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. This Cava is aged on the lees between 18 & 24 months before disgorgement. Nose: Apples, citrus and pleasant yeast aromas Palate: White stone fruit, melon, floral, and a touch of spice Alcohol: 12% SRP: $11 Roscato Rosso Dolce IGT This is a delicately sweet and refreshing wine from the Lombardy region in northern Italy and is produced in the Moscato d’Asti style. It is a blend of three indigenous grapes, Croatina, Teroldego and Lagrein, in addition to a few international grapes. Each variety is vinified separately before blending. It has a screw cap, no cork to pop, but it is still a festive wine to pour! Nose: Dark berries, cherry, red raspberry Palate: This wine is frizzante (gently sparkling wine) with notes of berries and has a nice balance between sweetness and acidity. Not only will it complement desserts, but this wine will also pair beautifully with spicy cuisine! Serve chilled. Alcohol: 7% SRP: $12.99 Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rosé Brut NV The grapes for this rosé are harvested from vineyards in Tupungato, Alto Gualtallary in Argentina at the foothills of the Andes at 4000 ft. altitude. It is a blend of (organic) 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and made using the Charmat Method. Nose: Cherry, red berries, citrus, a touch of floral Palate: Strawberry, ruby grapefruit, red berries, delicate bubbles. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $13 Paul Cheneau Lady of Spain Cava Brut NV Giró Ribot is the producer of this wine located in the heart of the Penedès appellation in Catalonia, Spain. They own 247 acres of vineyards of the indigenous Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada grapes, with which Cavas are produced. This wine is made using the Méthode Traditionnelle and is a blend of 45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel·lo and 15% Parellada. It is bottle aged for 12-15 months. Nose: Citrus, light peach, brioche Palate: Dry, fine and persistent bubbles, fresh fruit, stone fruit. Nicely balanced between acidity and alcohol with a long finish. This is an eye-catching bottle that doesn’t disappoint when opened. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $14.99 Côté Mas Crémant de Limoux Brut NV This sparkling wine is produced by Domaines Paul Mas located in the southern French region of Languedoc. The grapes for this wine are sourced from Crémant de Limoux appellation. It is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir, and 10% Mauzac. It is produced using the Méthode Traditionnelle. After primary fermentation, the “Liqueur de Tirage,” a blend of sugar and yeast, is added to the juice a few hours before bottling. After one year of aging, the lees are expelled and the “Liqueur de Dosage” is added and aged an additional twelve months. Nose: Apples, peaches, melon, honeysuckle Palate: Citrus, candied lemon, tart apple and crisp acidity with a touch of citrus zest on the finish. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $’’19.99 Bottega Gold Prosecco DOC NV This wine is produced by Bottega SpA, headquartered in Treviso in the Veneto region of northern Italy. 100% Glera grapes are hand-harvested from manually maintained and sustainable vineyards in Treviso Plains. It is produced using the Martinotti (Charmat, tank) method. “The gilded bottle also protects the wine from light, preserving the wine's clean and refreshing aromas.” Nose: Floral, apples and citrus Palate: Pear, apple, pink grapefruit, floral. Creamy mouthfeel, fine and persistent perlage with apples and a touch of honey lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 11% SRP: $32.99 Champagne Boizel Brut Réserve NV This Brut Réserve is produced by the Boizel House, established in 1834 and located in Épernay, in the heart of Champagne. The grapes for this cuvée is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. “The still wines (vins clairs) from the year are blended with 30% of reserve wines kept from the previous two harvests, ensuring consistency. By using reserve wines within two vintages only, Boizel is able to preserve freshness in their wines, a signature trait of their winemaking style. “ The wine is aged for three years on its lees, in the bottle. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, citrus and pastry Palate: Peach, apricot, toast, citrus notes, minerality, nice acidity and persistent mousse. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $49.99 Champagne Vollereaux Rosé de Saignée Brut NV Champagne Vollereaux produces this 100% Pinot Noir rosé. They are a sixth generation family winery located in Pierry, France. “Vollereaux is one of the very few champagne wineries to use the traditional saigne method of maceration for its Rosé Champagne, which involves bleeding off a portion of pink juice during red wine production (as opposed to blending red and white wine together). This process occurs after a short contact with the grape skins and seeds.” The juice spends three years on lees, more than twice the time required by appellation rules. Nose: Strawberry and juicy red berries, vanilla and bread dough.
Palate: Strawberry, kirsch and citrus mingle with berries and cream. It is dry with fine bubbles, vibrant acidity and a hint of brioche and minerality that linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $54.99 Pair the above wines with your favorite cheese, desserts, and holiday meals, or enjoy as an aperitif. And if you are stuck on what to give the 21+ drinkers on your “holiday/birthday/just because” list, these wines make beautiful gifts! If you would like more information on the regions and wine production methods, please visit the menu on the right and click on the category of interest. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] The holidays are almost upon us, and many will be celebrating either alone or with immediate family. But that’s no reason to curb the festivities. In fact, this year, more than ever, it is important to embrace our traditions and be thankful for family and friends that are still with us. In addition to sparkling wines, which I will be talking about in the next week or so, here are a few light still wine suggestions for your holiday table. These versatile and food-friendly wines will pair nicely with poultry, fish, vegetarian cuisine and latkes! Cavit Pinot Noir IGT 2018 The grapes for this 100% Pinot Noir come from the vineyards of Provincia di Pavia in the Lombardy region of Italy. After fermentation, the wine rests on its lees in large oak barrels until release. Aromas of floral, cherry and cranberry segue onto the palate with dark cherry notes, red berries and a hint of spice. This is a well-structured wine with silky tannins and a long finish. Serve as an aperitif or with your favorite meal! Alcohol: 12% SRP: $9.99 Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Wiltinger Kabinett Riesling 2018 Wiltinger is a village located in the Saar valley of Germany. The vineyard is on a site called Schlangengraben. It is noted for its reddish slate soil, a color that is derived from the iron content that adds minerality and spice to the wines. The vineyard was planted in 1905 and is one of the oldest in the entire Mosel region. These old vines have deep roots and produce small berries that create intense, lively, aromatic and complex wines. This wine has a VDP Ortswein classification, meaning that it comes from a village’s best vineyards. Intoxicating aromas of floral, stone fruit, spice and a touch of smokiness set the stage for this succulent wine. The palate offers peach, apricot, pear, spice and slate minerality blended with crisp acidity. It has depth and structure with a restrained residual sweetness. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, Asian cuisine and white meat. Alcohol: 9% SRP: $19.99 Mandrarossa Costadune Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT 2017 According to Wines of Sicily, “Frappato is believed to have its origins in the Ragusa province of Sicily around 300 years ago. It is characterized as a light and refreshing wine. Nose: full bouquet, cherry Palate: mild tannins violet, strawberries.” Grapes for this 100% Frappato wine were sourced from vineyards at 820 ft. above sea level in Menfi, southwest Sicily. The wine matures for eight months in steel vats. Lush red fruit aromas, floral and spice set the stage for this light-bodied wine. The palate offers a juicy array of cherries, strawberry, a hint of red plum, sweet spice and a touch of sour cherry that lingers on the finish. It is beautifully balanced between sweet and savory and ideal for a variety of food pairings. Try serving it slightly chilled. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $17.99 Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC Zeisen, 2018 Austria’s most significant and indigenous white grape variety is Grüner Veltliner. This dry wine is known for its vibrant acidity and flavors of pepper and citrus. The grapes for this 100% Grüner Veltliner are harvested from 43-year-old vines located in the Weinviertel appellation of Austria. The wines are bottled after spending four months in stainless steel tanks. As per Austrian Wine, ““DAC” stands for “Districtus Austriae Controllatus” and is the legal abbreviation for special region-typical quality wines. Thus, if a label states the winegrowing region followed by the letter combination DAC, we are talking about a region-typical quality wine.” Citrus, herbs, spice and pepper delight the nose. This is a very crisp and juicy wine with flavors of key lime, pepper, spice, herbs, a touch of minerality and a zingy and peppery finish. It is a refreshing wine and will leave your palate craving for another sip. Serve as an aperitif or pair with poultry, smoked salmon and oysters. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $18.99 Saget La Perrière “La Perrière” Sancerre 2019 Sancerre is a small wine appellation in the Loire Valley wine region of France. It is famous for its production of white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. As cited by Loire Valley Wines, “Centre-Loire region is at the center of France. It is the original home of Sauvignon Blanc and of Sancerre, the world’s most prestigious Sauvignon Blanc wine that sets international standards for the grape.” This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from vineyards in the Centre-Loire region. The wine is aged on fine lees for three to four months, then bottled and aged for at least five months in the cellar. Lovely aromas of white stone fruit and floral mingle with citrus and a touch of minerality. The palate is lush, rich and creamy with added notes of melon, lemon, pink grapefruit, pear, a hint of herbs and a flinty finish. It is a beautiful marriage of flavors and vibrant acidity. Drink as an aperitif or pair with fish, poultry, seafood and appetizers.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $39.99 The above wines are meant to be enjoyed all year round. Indulge your palate and have fun mixing and matching with your favorite food pairings. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] The weather has been gloriously warm and inviting the past few days. And I, for one, am enjoying this brief throwback to summer. It was made even better by the perfect timing of a few samples of Albariño wine that arrived on my doorstep. These wines hail from DO Rías Baixas, which is located in the northwestern corner of Spain in the Galicia region. The Miño River separates it from Portugal to the south. Rías Baixas is divided into five growing areas (sub-zones) running from north to south. More than 99% of wines produced here are white, with Albariño, an indigenous grape, representing 96% of all plantings. The Atlantic Ocean is a key influence on the climate in Rías Baixas, with each sub-zone differing in grape varieties, terroir, microclimates and winemaking techniques. However, one main theme is the granite soils that are dominant throughout the region. The wines all share a common thread with characteristics of a soft yellow color, floral aromatics, vibrant acidity, fresh and dry, with mineral overtones. Bodegas La Val Albariño DO 2019 The vineyards for this wine are located in the sub-zone of O Rosal, located at the river Miño. O Rosal enjoys warm weather with granite bedrock and alluvial topsoil. Terraced hillside vineyards stretch along the sides of the Miño. This 100% Albariño is a blend of two of the winery’s estate vineyards. A lovely bouquet of floral blends with white stone fruit and citrus that continues onto the palate. Notes of peach, apricot, pear, citrus and a touch of herbs linger on the finish. This is a fresh and lively wine. Pair with seafood, roasted chicken, appetizers and light pasta. Or enjoy it as an aperitif! Alcohol: 13% SRP: $16.99 Condes De Albarei Albariño DO 2019 The vineyards for this wine are located in the sub-zone of Val do Salnés. It is considered the birthplace of the Albariño grape and it is the original and oldest sub-zone of Rías Baixas. It has the most area grape plantings and is home to the largest cluster of wineries than any of the other sub-zones. Vineyards are planted on both slopes and flat valley floors. It is the coolest and wettest sub-zone with soils that are granitic, rocky and alluvial. For this wine, only vines that are older than 23 years are used and are hand-selected. Vibrant aromas of floral, pineapple, white stone fruit and citrus segue onto the palate. Melon, hints of orange and a touch of minerality linger on the finish. It is well balanced with crisp acidity. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with seafood, salads and grilled veggies. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $18 Señorío De Rubiós Robaliño Albariño DO 2019 The vineyards for this wine are located in the sub-zone of Condado do Tea. It is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River. This is the second-largest sub-region of the Rías Baixas. It is a relatively mountainous area along the Miño, with a warmer and drier area more inland. The average temperature here is 59 degrees but can reach 104 degrees during the summer. Soils contain granite and slate. The nose is met with enticing aromas of floral, peach, apricot and notes of minerality. This is a rich and silky wine with notes of grapefruit, peach and apricot on the palate. Good structure and vibrant acidity follow through to the finish with white stone fruit, grapefruit and a hint of herb lingering. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with seafood, appetizers, white meat and cheese.
Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $19 All of these wines can be enjoyed year-round, but I’m taking advantage of the warm weather to drink them now! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] I had every intention of sitting down to write a wine story today. There is certainly no shortage of wine and spirits to explore. Samples are delivered to my home almost daily, in addition to frequent virtual wine tastings. But I need to pause. The world is watching the United States as it waits with bated breath for the outcome of the Presidential election, and the anxiety that we all feel is palpable. I thought perhaps I would write a story about “go-to” election drinks to get us all through a very stressful time. But it just doesn’t seem fitting for this particular election, when our future and our children’s future hangs in the balance. Instead, I will embrace the day, breathe slowly and soak up the sun and fresh air. And perhaps this evening I’ll open an old vintage wine. Whether it is a special bottle of wine, a glass of aged bourbon, a power walk, yoga, listening to music, dancing or breathing exercises, do whatever it takes to relieve the election stress. Find your inner peace, and remember to breathe! I will be back in a few days with stories and hopefully, after the election results, peace of mind!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] With over 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered in Portugal, one can imagine how much there is to explore here when it comes to wine production. I have had the opportunity to taste a myriad of varieties and enticing blends throughout Portugal’s 14 wine regions and my palate is rarely disappointed. I recently received two white wine samples featuring the Loureiro grapes from the Vinho Verde wine region and I was quite eager to taste them. The Loureiro grape is grown primarily in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region. Of Portugal’s 14 wine regions, Vinho Verde is the largest DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada) located in the northwest corner of the country. The boundaries for the region were set in 1908 and it is believed to be one of the oldest regions in Portugal. Vinho Verde stretches from the Minho River in the north, separating northern Portugal from Spain to the Atlantic Ocean bordering the west and the Douro River running through the southern border of the region. Several other rivers traverse through Vinho Verde, which includes the Ave and Cávado. Vinho Verde is divided into nine sub-regions and grows a variety of grapes in fertile, granite and sandy soils with rainy, humid and cool temperatures created by its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Vinho Verde is noted for producing wines that are fresh with crisp acidity and exceptional quality-to-price ratio. The Loureiro grape is a light-skinned variety known for its floral aromas. Wines of Portugal states, “Although now widely disseminated throughout the Vinho Verde region, it seems that the Loureiro grape originated in the valley of the River Lima, towards the north of the VR Minho/DOC Vinho Verde region. "Loureiro" means "laurel" or "bay" and the aroma of Loureiro wines is said to resemble that of laurel flowers, also orange blossom, acacia and lime blossom, overlaying apple, peachy fruit. Loureiro wines usually have refreshing, well-balanced acidity. Loureiro is much in evidence nowadays bottled as a single variety, but traditionally it was more often blended with Arinto (Pedernã) and Alvarinho, or with Trajadura. It is a very vigorous, high-yielding variety that has only recently been recognized as "noble". The bunches are elongated and relatively compact, bearing medium-sized, yellowish-greenish grapes.” Esporão Bico Amarelo 2019 This is the debut vintage of Bico Amarelo (Yellow Beak). Esporão is a cutting edge winery with a presence throughout Portugal. They have approximately 700 hectares of prime agricultural areas that include wine vineyards, olive groves and other crops planted mainly in the Alentejo and Douro wine regions of Portugal. This wine is a blend of 40% Loureiro hand-harvested from Quinta Do Ameal in Vinho Verde and 30% Alavarinho and 30% Avesso sourced from nearby growers. The wine is aged for three to six months in stainless steel vats. Lovely floral aromas combine with notes of fresh stone fruit and citrus. The palate is entertained with lively acidity, lemon, green apple and a hint of peach. This is a light and refreshing wine. Alcohol: 11.5% SRP: $12 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2019 Quinta do Ameal is a historic estate founded in 1710 in the Lima sub-region of Vinho Verde. Lima River Valley is considered the birthplace of Loureiro. The estate has 30 hectares of vineyards, of which 14 are dedicated to the Loureiro grape. In 2019, the Esporão group became the new owners of Quinta do Ameal. This wine is 100% Loureiro hand-harvested from estate-grown fruit. It is aged for seven months on lees in stainless steel vats. Enticing floral notes mingle with citrus and fresh fruit. The palate offers fruit blended with lots of lemon, an edge of minerality, subtle herbs, a touch of tart apple and vibrant acidity. It is refreshing, light and quite enjoyable with lemon zest on the finish.
Alcohol: 11% SRP: $18 Both wines will drink beautifully as an aperitif or pair nicely with seafood, cold soups, salads and grilled vegetables. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It was June of 2016 while attending the Descorchados NY South American wine event that I first met Felipe Ortiz. Felipe is Chief Winemaker for Casa Donoso located in the Maule Valley of Chile. I remember being caught up in his enthusiasm and passion as he introduced me to his very intriguing wines. Felipe said that the Maule Valley had a “multiplicity of characters” and then gave a general description of the wines. “White wines are very fresh with mineral traces, in particular our Sauvignon Blanc. Red wines with short maturity cycles show a very good balance between alcohol and acidity, like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And above all, a nice and silky Carménère is a tricky and demanding variety which is hard to mature properly in other valleys”. One year later we met again at the same event. And once again, my palate was treated to Felipe’s expressive wines. We have stayed in touch throughout the last few years with the hope that I might visit Casa Donoso one day. I have not had the opportunity to travel to Chile yet, and now with travel on hold for most of us, it is unlikely that I will visit there any time soon. So, Felipe sent Casa Donoso to me with a bountiful shipment of wines and a candid long-distance conversation. Chile is a long and narrow country bordering the Pacific Ocean to the west, and to the east lie the Andes Mountains, which is among the world’s highest mountain range in the Western Hemisphere. Chile spans 2700 miles running from north to south and is only 100 miles wide. Its numerous wine regions are then divided into sub-regions. Due to the expansive range of terroirs, the style of wines made here has an equally wide range, with most of the climatic variations in the wine-growing regions running from east to west due to the influence of the ocean and mountains. Casa Donoso is located in the sub-region of Talca, which is in the heart of the Maule Valley and is part of the DO Central Valley region. Maule Valley is the largest wine-producing region and also the oldest wine-growing region in Chile. Some of the countries’ oldest vines that were planted over 100 years ago still exist here. It is also one of the southernmost wine-growing areas of Chile. The soils throughout Maule Valley are of sedimentary origin, such as sandy and deep clay loam and the climate is Mediterranean. The main grapes grown here are Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, Carigñan, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Casa Donoso was created 30 years ago by a group of French investors who saw the potential of this unique terroir. They made it their mission to focus on the production of premium wines from the onset. They were among the first foreign investors to introduce modern technology to the winemaking industry in Chile. In 2014 the Selume family, a national group, took over. Felipe said, “They continue to follow the line of quality in the wines. We have a French heritage from the beginning as well as a new world winemaking vision, which allows us to generate high-level wines. Casa Donoso is a classic and elegant concept in the Maule Valley.” Felipe Ortiz joined Casa Donoso in 2008. I asked Felipe how he became interested in winemaking and where he received his training. Felipe: “I think my first approach to the wine world was thanks to my father. He always showed me varieties of wine pairings with food when I was young. Then at the university, I studied Agronomy Engineering in Chile. To be a winemaker here, you must first study agronomy. During the last years of my studies, I leaned towards viticulture and enology, a branch of agronomy. In Chile, before I finished the university, I started working during the vintage season at Los Vascos for a total of four vintage seasons. Then I also worked at Viña San Pedro during another harvest season.” Felipe graduated with a degree in Agronomy Engineering and Enology. From 2006 to 2008 he went on to develop his career working with wineries in California, Provence and Barossa Valley in Australia. It was the middle of 2008 when he joined Viña Casa Donoso where he is now the chief winemaker. Felipe is a member of the Chilean Association of Engineering Agronomists Enologists. (ANIAE) Casa Donoso has 400 hectares of vineyards located throughout Maule Valley from central Maule to the coastal and pre-mountain zones. The altitude on average is 100 meters (328 ft) above sea level. One of their vineyards, La Oriental Estate, is in central Maule and one of the oldest estates in Talca with 123 hectares and vines that are more than 60 years of age. The Donoso portfolio of wines is diverse and has several different brands representing a range of traditional and atypical red blends. When I met Felipe in 2016, the very first wine he poured for me was Sucesor Romano Limited Release 2015. Sucesor is considered “the avant-garde line of the Donoso group.” It is also a project that has inspired Felipe and allowed his creativity to shine through with these daring blends. Felipe, tell me about Sucesor and its inception. Felipe: “Successor was created with the need to seek oenological innovation. In 2013 we started working with Carigñan with a more friendly and assembled concept called Successor BLUE. Then in 2014, we developed Sucesor Romano, a challenging project made with the César noir grape that was almost extinct in the world. Jean-Michel Boursiquot is a renowned ampelographer, who rediscovered what is now Chile’s flagship grape variety, Carménère. He also discovered the César noir grape (Romano, colloquial name) in our fields in the ‘90's. He later helped us with the information process to register the grape in Chile. We have just 0.5 hectares of this variety in our vineyard and we are the first winery in Chile to commercialize this grape. We continued our project with Sucesor RED, which is Carménère assembled with Malbec, also an unusual mix in Chile and the world. And, starting in the year 2019, we began developing a new project with Sucesor, using the grape, Portuagais Bleu. We hope to release this project in the coming year.” What is the most challenging grape for you to work with? Felipe: “I think with relevance to the Sucesor project, it is César noir. It is a very delicate grape, which we have to cut at the right time without losing freshness. Then in the winemaking process we try not to over-extract it too much. Finally, the wine rests for short storage in Spanish amphoras and another part in used barrels (not new), which increases its potential. César noir originates from Burgundy, strongly planted in the Irancy area, where history tells that it is mixed with fine Pinot noir to improve its concentration. In Chile, it is estimated that it arrived during the year 1945. But there is information that it may have even arrived earlier.” Has climate change affected your approach to winemaking? Felipe: “Undoubtedly! Ten years ago, the Maule Valley (160 miles from Santiago in southern Chile) was much colder and we had to wait longer than normal for grapes to mature. For example, Carménère harvesting took place at the end of May. Today climate change has affected an increase in temperatures where the same Carménère is harvested 30 to 45 days earlier. Unfortunately, together with climate change, we have had to adapt to drought and low rainfall over time. So we have to generate new ways to advance in winemaking. Each year is different; there are no recipes to produce good wine.” The Wines D Icon Limited Edition 2015 This is an unfiltered, Bordeaux-style wine blended with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Carménère, 20% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Franc. Grapes are harvested from 70-year-old vines. Wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, of which 25% is new oak. Aromas of dark berries, spice and a touch of floral lead to a luscious palate of plum, blackberry, spice and vanilla. It is beautifully blended with silky tannins and a long finish. A trace of herbs and vanilla linger. Felipe: “It is a very elegant and aromatic wine, not very concentrated, Bordeaux style, but with a lot of character of our terroir. For me, it shows a very elegant and classic concept of Maule valley!” Alcohol: 14% SRP: $55-$65 1810 Super Premium Cabernet Sauvignon- Carménère 2017 The blend for this wine is 50/50. Grapes are harvested from 40-year-old vines and the wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, of which 15% is new oak. The name for this wine honors an important part of Chilean history. Talca was the site where the Chilean Act of Independence was signed in 1810. Dark berries, plum and spice aromas segue onto the palate with notes of fig, toast and vanilla. This is a subtle and smooth wine with firm tannins and a lengthy finish. It is very elegant. Felipe: “It shows what is done with these two varietals in Chile, a lot of country image in this wine and another of our classic wines. It is of the classic line, but with a very marked concentration and intensity.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $30-$35 Bicentenario Gran Reserva Carmenere 2018 This wine is 100% Carménère. Grapes are sourced from 30-year-old vines. 70% of the wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak barrels and the remaining 30% is kept in stainless steel tanks. The name and label are a tribute to 200 years of independence for Chile. Subtle floral aromas mix with fresh red fruit that gently spills onto the palate with notes of raspberry, dark berries, spice and soft tannins. It finishes nicely with a hint of toasted oak. Felipe: “This Carménère follows a line that is NOT overripe or high alcohol but is a very fresh Carménère. Red fruit, mild spices, and an elegant mouth. One of the characteristics of the Maule Valley is the freshness of the wines (different to other valleys in Chile)” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16-$20 I love what the back label for the Sucesor wines says. “Sucesor is the disordered line of Casa Donoso Winery where our winemaker proposes daring and innovative blends that step out of the classic style of the winery. These wines have been created for all wine lovers who are each day bolder.” Sucesor Blue Limited Release 2015 This is a blend of 60% Carigñan, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Grapes are harvested from 80-year-old vines in the coastal vineyards of Loncomilla. 30% of the wine is aged in Spanish amphoras for 18 months and 70% in French oak barrels for 15-18 months. Lush dark and red berry aromas leap out of the glass with a touch of floral and dark cherry added. This wine is smooth and delicious with berries, plum and mocha dancing on the palate. Subtle notes of minerality blend well with this refreshing red. Felipe: “This shows the Carigñan in another face from the normal. it is a fruity, fresh wine style, assembled with Cabernet and Cab Franc. It also does not pursue a lot of alcoholic degrees and is a very friendly concept of Carigñan. Part of its aging is using Spanish amphoras, which reflects a very powerful fruit.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $35-$45 Sucesor Red Limited Release 2016 This is a blend of 80% Carménère and 20% Malbec. Grapes are harvested from 40-year-old vines. 30% of the wine is aged in Spanish amphoras for 18 months and 70% in French oak barrels for 15-18 months. Heady aromas of floral mingled with red fruit and spice spill onto the palate to reveal notes of strawberry and cherry that blend nicely with spice and a trace of red plums. Silky tannins and a long finish with vanilla and spice lingering will make any palate sing. Felipe: “This wine shows a very different face of Carménère mixed with a Malbec. It has floral notes and generates a very interesting nose. In the mouth, there is a bit more concentration and intensity but without losing the elegance of the Carménère (soft tannins). Sucesor plays with amphoras in the aging, which is characteristic of the line.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $35-$45 Sucesor Romano Limited Release 2018 This is the first time I have tasted a wine made with César noir. It is a blend of 90% César noir and 10% Carménère. Grapes are harvested from 70-year-old vines. 50% of the wine is aged in Spanish amphoras and 50% in French oak barrels for a period of eight to ten months. Seductive floral aromas with notes of red fruit, raspberry and spice set the stage for this delicious wine. Floral notes continue onto the palate with layers of rich berries, spice and plum. Minerality, hints of herbal and nice acidity add depth to this juicy wine. The finish is long with violet, vanilla and mocha lingering on the palate. Felipe: “Cesar noir has been a rediscovery of this variety in Chile, which we found in our fields. It is a project that started in 2013 and the first vintage was 2015 and introduced around the world (USA, EU, ASIA, Brazil). We were the first winery in Chile to show this wine. It is a very fresh wine, red fruit, medium body and characteristic juiciness of this Maule Valley. It is a very different proposal and an invitation to the innovation of all this Sucesor line.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $35-$45 After tasting through these wonderful wines, I’m eager to know what the Donoso Group has in the pipeline for the future. What goals in winemaking are you still looking to achieve? Felipe: “I think to continue doing work with grapes that are little worked on or lost in the world such as Cesar noir and Portugais Bleu. The innovation side I think is very challenging as a winemaker. Also, Donoso Group supports these developments and I feel very pleased about it. My pursuit is to make wines that fully reflect the terroir that they come from, always generate a unique character independent of the variety and finally make wines that the consumer remembers and enjoys always.” Of course, I can’t end this conversation without asking what your personal favorite wine is to drink? Felipe: “I think my favorite wine depends on the moment. For example, for a barbecue I look for wines with a higher concentration such as Cabernets or mixtures based on cabernet, it can also be a Carigñan. If we talk about seafood, what better wine than a rich Sauvignon blanc from the Maule foothills. For milder or spicy foods there are many alternatives such as Carménère, Romano, Malbec, among others.” Felipe has definitely captured the essence of the terroir in these wines and sipping them has brought me a tad closer to Chile. However, I can’t wait until the doors open once again for traveling. I’m looking forward to a 360-degree tour of Casa Donoso and another wine tasting with Felipe! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It is hard to believe that one year has passed since I visited Germany. It was a magical trip immersed in breathtaking sights, memorable food and wine and the charming culture of the Franken wine region. I have longed to return and explore Germany’s other wine regions, but thanks to COVID-19, travel will have to wait. The timing couldn’t have been more perfect for a recent delivery this past week of a few Rieslings from Weingut Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof located in the Mosel wine region of Germany. Sipping these expressive wines was a treat and made me nostalgic for the friends I made and the fabulous wines that I tasted while in Germany. Weingut Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof is located in the village of Leiwen in the Mosel Valley. It is considered one of Germany’s premier estates with about 45 hectares of vineyards that stretch along the Mosel and Saar rivers making it the second-largest family-owned and operated winery in the Mosel. Nicolaus Weis founded the winery in 1947 and his grandson Nik Weis has been owner and winemaker since 1997. Nik changed the name of the winery from St. Urbans-Hof to Nik Weis - St. Urbans-Hof since family work and tradition are of such importance. Nik said, “For our family, wine has been at the heart of life for generations. Our deep respect for the traditions of our region remains, as ever, the guarantee for the quality of our wines. In our endeavors, we give the highest priority to maintaining the ecological balance of our vineyards, in the belief that as winemakers we must recognize and respect the fragile unity of viticulture and nature.“ This is not my first story or review of wines from Nik Weis - St. Urbans-Hof. To read more about this winery and other wines that they produce, please click “Nik Weis” on the menu at right. Mosel wine region is approximately 139 miles west of Franken. The vineyards here enjoy a continental climate with warm summers and long growing seasons, which contribute to the ripening of the grapes and help to create heightened flavors and low alcohol levels. All grapes are hand-harvested and carried from the vineyards in traditional shoulder-mounted “hottens” (containers) to guarantee optimal fruit quality. Nik stated, “Just as important as the great length taken to deliver the best possible fruit from the vineyard is the careful attention given to the proper treatment of the grapes by cellar master Rudolf Hoffmann. The grapes are lightly crushed, after which they remain on the skins for a short period to ensure the complete release of aromas into the juice. After this, the pulp of skins and juice is gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel tanks at cool cellar temperatures to fully capture the aromas, flavors and delicate natural spritz of the Riesling grape. The wines are then transferred into traditional 1000 litre 'Fuder' barrels for several months to harmonize, after which they are lightly filtered and bottled.” Urban Riesling 2019 Grapes for this wine are sourced from blue-slate vineyards located in the neighboring town of Mehring. I have tasted and reviewed the 2016 and 2017 vintages. The 2019 vintage does not disappoint! As with the past vintages, this wine is quite aromatic. Lovely notes of apple, white flowers, pear and hints of apricot and honey are mouth-watering. The palate offers lush peach, green apple, pear, and a touch of honeydew melon. Lively acidity and minerality add to this refreshing off-dry wine. Serve as an aperitif or with light fare and spicy cuisine. Alcohol: 10% SRP: $13.99 Wiltinger Kabinett 2018 Wiltinger is a village located in the Saar valley. The vineyard is on a site called Schlangengraben. It is noted for its reddish slate soil, a color that is derived from the iron content that adds minerality and spice to the wines. The vineyard was planted in 1905 and is one of the oldest in the entire Mosel region. These old vines have deep roots and produce small berries that create intense, lively, aromatic and complex wines. This wine has a VDP.Ortswein classification, meaning that it comes from a village’s best vineyards. Intoxicating aromas of floral, stone fruit, spice and a touch of smokiness set the stage for this succulent wine. The palate offers peach, apricot, pear, spice and slate minerality blended with crisp acidity. It has depth and structure with a restrained residual sweetness. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, Asian cuisine and white meat.
Alcohol: 9% SRP: $19.99 These wines are beautifully priced and I could drink them all winter long! Hopefully, one day I will be sipping these Rieslings while enjoying the scenery in the Mosel Valley! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] |
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