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A few days ago I had the opportunity to taste a large sampling of wines from Croatia. With twenty-two wineries represented, my palate was treated to some very impressive wines.  Today’s post is a general overview of Croatian wine. I will be getting into a more in-depth study of each region, the wines, producers and some history in future posts. Croatia stretches over Central and Southeastern Europe with a very long coastline hugging the Adriatic Sea.  There are four wine regions throughout Croatia with twelve sub-regions and 66 appellations. The climate and soils vary throughout these regions. The Adriatic coastline enjoys typical Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers and cool, rainy winters. Further inland in Central Croatia, the Dinaric Alps run parallel to the Adriatic Sea creating an alpine climate at the higher altitudes. Depending on the region, one can find a variety of soils, with white soils of limestone, iron-rich clay soils and stony karst soil being the most dominant. Here is a fun fact: Croatia is home to the Slavonian oak forest, which provides oak for the casks preferred by many European winemakers for aging their finest wines!  There are 130 indigenous grape varieties in Croatia of which 40 are in production. Over 60% of wine produced in Croatia is white. Here is a list of just a few of the indigenous grape varieties: Red grapes Tribidrag is genetically identical to Zinfandel and the oldest recorded name for the variety. Plavac Mali (offspring to Zinfandel) and considered “king of the Croatian wines”. Teran found mostly in western Istria region Babić found mostly in the Central Dalmatia region White grapes Graševina (most planted grape variety in Croatia) Pošip found mostly in Dalmatia region Malvazija Istarska (second most planted grape in Croatia) Grk found mostly on Lumbarda, a small island off the coast Debit found primarily in the Dalmatia region Generally speaking, the majority of white wines that I tasted were very aromatic, dry, crisp, light and fresh, with a perfect balance of fruit, citrus, and minerality. I must admit that the white wines were my favorite. The red wines run the gamut from soft to chewy tannins with layers of dark fruit, spice and herbs that are full-bodied and robust to softer medium-bodied reds of cherry, sweet berries, spice and floral. I tasted a few rosés that were very impressive, including a standout from Vina Laguna Perla Rosé NV made with Teran grapes. Vina Laguna is located in the Istria wine region.  Vina Laguna Perla Rosé Among the many producers present was Grgić Vina Winery, owned by winemaker Mike Grgich, who became famous in 1976 when his Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won first prize at the “Judgment of Paris.” Both his Pošip 2016 (white) and Plavac mali 2015 (red) were outstanding. His winery is located in the Peljesac Peninsula, part of the Dalmatia region.  In addition to the wines, I tasted amazing olive oil from several producers. Wow---just wow! As I said earlier, this is just a quick introduction to Croatian wine…I have more to cover! The names of the varietals can be daunting, but I hope I have peaked your curiosity enough to pick up a bottle the next time you’re in a wine shop. If you do, share your thoughts with me!  My mouth was still tingling with delight after tasting and reviewing several bottles of wine from Alentejo, Portugal last week. So, last night I opened a bottle of wine from northern Portugal’s Douro Valley region.  My palate was not disappointed!  Douro is famous for supplying the world with its production of port wine. However, it is now being praised for its succulent and refined unfortified wines, both red and white. Quinta da Zaralhôa is a family owned estate with 12 hectares located in the sub-region of Douro Superior.  Photo courtesy of Wines of Portugal This sub-region experiences extremely cold winters and very hot summers. The vines grow in schist soil on steep slopes with the vineyards facing southwest, exposing them to less sun. With less sun exposure, the grapes are allowed a longer time to ripen, developing flavors without excess sugar impeding the acid levels. At Quinta da Zaralhôa harvest takes place in October. Farming is certified organic and sustainable. Grapes are crushed with the tradition of stomping the grapes with their feet, in the belief that it is the best way to maximize the juice’s contact with the skin without crushing the seeds. Photo credit Quinta da Zaralhôa Quinta da Zaralhôa Rumansil 2012 is a blend of indigenous grapes; 25%Touriga Nacional, 25%Touriga Franca, 25%Tinta Roriz, and 25% Tinta Barroca. The wine is named after Rumansil, a Roman villa of the 3rd century, located next to Quinta da Zaralhôa. The wine is aged in French oak for 2 years. Prior to bottling, different lots are selected for the final blend and then aged for one year in bottle.  The color of the wine is burgundy with intoxicating aromas of dark fruit, floral and spice. The palate is layered with a rich concentration of dark berries, plums, spice, fennel, hints of cocoa and finishes with cherry and pepper. Silky tannins, good acidity, fresh and juicy! Alcohol: 13% SRP: $25 Wines from Douro are becoming more and more popular and run the gamut in price. If you haven’t already tried these wines, I encourage you to treat your palate!  A few weeks ago I opened a bottle of Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Malbec 2014 from Chile. I intended to give a “shout out” to this expressive wine, but days got away from me and I never got around to writing about it. And then, yesterday I received several bottles of Malbec from Chile and Argentina. One of the bottles was a Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Malbec 2016. So, I thought it would be interesting to compare the 2014 and 2016 vintages.  The Gran Reserva Serie Riberas is also known as “Riverbank Series”. These are single-vineyard wines grown close to one of Chile’s major rivers, the Rapel, Cachapoal and Tinguirica. The Malbec vineyards are planted on the south bank of the Tinguirica River. The Palo Santo Vineyard is located 180 meters above sea level. The climate is Mediterranean with an extended dry season and the river and coastal breezes influence the temperature. Marcio Ramírez is the chief winemaker for the Gran Reserva Serie Riberas. Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Malbec 2014 is made with 90% Malbec and 10% Syrah. The color is deep purple with tantalizing aromas of dark fruit, dark plum, blueberries, blackberries and spice. The palate is layered with dark berries, dark plum, hints of blueberries, nutmeg, pepper and dark chocolate. This wine has a beautiful concentration of flavors and is full-bodied with soft tannins. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $17  Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Malbec 2016 is made with 85% Malbec and 15% Merlot. The color is dark purple with concentrated aromas of blueberries, plum, spice, pepper and hints of floral. The palate offers lush dark fruit, black cherries, plum and spice with a long finish of pepper and sour cherry. It is medium-bodied with soft tannins. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $17  The 2016 vintage has a tad more spice and has earthiness, but both vintages are easy to drink and they will pair well with many foods.
Until next time! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] When the topic of Portuguese wine comes up, thoughts might turn to the exceptional fortified wines that this country produces. But there is so much more to discover. I have written several stories about Portuguese wine, discussing some of its regions and producers. Here is a quick review: Portugal is located in the Southwest corner of Europe in the Iberian Peninsula. It is the westernmost country of Europe and surrounded by Spain to the North and East, and the Atlantic Ocean to the South and West.  What makes Portugal so unusual with regards to wine is that it boasts a remarkable number of grape varieties that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. In fact, many of the Portuguese grape varieties are restricted to the national territory. There are 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered. The Alvarinho, Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are probably the most widely known by name. Portugal is divided into fourteen Regional Wine areas.  Map courtesy of viniportugal Each region has a unique geography and climate, influencing the production of the grapes. Most of the wines produced in Portugal are a blend of several national grape varieties rather than using a single varietal. In fact, some winemakers will blend more than twenty varieties to attain the perfect balance. However, there are a few regions that produce a single variety grape, such as Bairrada, using the Baga grape (red) and in Moncao/Melgaco in the Vinho Verde region, using the Alvarinho grape (white). Overall, the most “popular” of the white grapes are Alvarinho, Arinto/Pederna, Encruzado and Fernao Pires/Maria Gomes. The popular red grapes are Baga, Casteao, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira/Tinta Amarela. My focus today is the Alentejo wine region which covers a third of Portugal in the southern half. (see map above)  Alentejo has eight sub-regions that cover approximately a fifth of the Vinho Regional Alentejano region with climate and soils varying within the sub-regions. The wines produced here come in a range of styles, influenced by the diversity of the climate and soil.  The soil of Alentejo varies throughout the sub-regions. In fact, it has the most diverse soil of any region in Portugal. Interspersed amongst the mountains, hills and valleys, one can find soil with clay, limestone, quartz, granite, schist, sandstone and marble. Most of the soils are non-calcareous, meaning they are neutral or more acidic.  Photo courtesy of Vinepair For instance, Portalegre is located well to the northeast at the foothills of the São Mamede Mountains with predominately granite soil, more rainfall and cooler temperatures. Borba, Évora, Redondo and Reguengos, located in the interior of Alentejo, experience typical Mediterranean weather which is mild and warm, with more rainfall in winter. The soil types vary between marble, red slate, brown Mediterranean soil, granite and schist. Whereas, Granja-Amareleja, Moura and Vidigueira are exposed to a much hotter climate with infertile volcanic soils of granite and schist and poor limestone based soils.  Photo courtesy of Wines of Portugal Alentejo has 51,000 acres of planted vines that enjoy 3000 hours of sunshine annually. More than 80% of the grapes grown are red, but whites are gaining momentum, especially Antão Vaz, the star grape of the region. The following are Alentejo’s signature grapes: Whites Antão Vaz Arinto Fernão Pires Roupeiro-aka Malvasia and Siria Verdelho Reds Alfrocheiro Alicante Bouschet Castelão Touriga Nacional Trincadeira So, let’s check out a small selection of wines from Alentejo!  Olho De Mocha Reserva 2014 is produced by Herdade do Rocim located in the southernmost region of lower Alentejo. The wine is 100% Antão Vaz. The color is golden yellow with subtle aromas of citrus, floral, apples and hints of minerality. The palate offers tropical fruit, honeysuckle, gentle citrus and lively acidity with a dose of lemon zest on the finish. This is a fresh and aromatic wine. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $30  Tinto De Talha 2014 is produced by Piteira located in the Granja-Amareleja sub-region. The wine is made with 100% Moreto grapes grown in a mix of sand pebbles and quartz. This is a “clay jar” wine, which is a 2,000-year-old tradition of making wine.  Photo courtesy of Origen The grapes are destemmed and crushed by hand and then the must and skins are deposited into large 520-gallon handmade talhas (clay jars) where fermentation starts spontaneously and lasts for about 3 months. The wine then ages for 6 months in the talhas with skins. The color of the wine is deep garnet with ripe fruit, floral and plum on the nose. Neutral flavors and a hint of bitterness remain on the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $23  Reserve Red 2014 is produced by Esporão located in Reguengos de Monsaraz DOP, in the interior of Alentejo. This is a beautiful blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes are grown in clay loam soils with granite and schist mother rock. The color of the wine is dark red bordering on purple. Aromas of ripe red and dark fruit, herbs and hints of oak segue onto the palate with cherry, plum and pomegranate, leaving a hint of tartness on the finish. This is a full-bodied wine with medium tannins and multiple layers. A very expressive wine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $28  Evora Tinto Colheita 2013 is produced by Cartuxa located in the sub-region of Évora. The wine is a blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are grown in granite soil. The wine is dark red with aromas of sweet berries and dark fruit. The palate offers dark rich fruit, dark plum, cherry, spice, licorice, medium tannins and a peppery finish. This is a full-bodied wine with a lot of depth and character. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25  Monte de Peceguina 2015 is produced by Herdade Da Malhadinha Nova located in Beja, a southern sub-zone. The wine is a lovely blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are grown in free-draining schist soil. The color is dark ruby with heady aromas of lush ripe fruit, cherry and dark berries. The palate offers succulent berries, spice, anise and hints of pepper and herbs. White chocolate and cherry linger on the finish. This is a fresh, medium-bodied wine that is smooth as silk. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: 18.99  Alentejo producers and growers embrace and practice sustainability. In 2014, the Alentejo Regional Wine Growing Commission created a voluntary initiative for grape growers and wine producers called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme in order to improve social, environmental and economic welfare. In addition to wine production, Alentejo produces award-winning olive oil and is home to over one-third of the world’s cork forests.  Cork forest Alentejo has a rich and fascinating wine history, amazing architecture, mouthwatering cuisine and a captivating culture, all of which I will cover in another post. In the meantime, the next time you’re in a wine shop pick up a bottle from this impressive region. Most of the wines are available nationwide.
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Being that February is a short month with only 28 days, time is definitely flying by! In just a few short weeks spring will be here and for some, the slow process of emerging from winter cocoons will begin with thoughts of shifting to outdoor grilling, drinking lighter wines and preparing herb and vegetable gardens.  Although the weather has been warm and quite balmy the last few days, making spring seem more attainable, winter is far from over. I have been snapped out of my reverie today as I prepare for yet another snowstorm! And bam…back to reality!  No matter what the weather, I recently tasted some delicious wines that will please the palate in any season. Wines of Sicily DOC recently sent me a few bottles of wine. And you know how much I love Sicilian wine! To quote Wines of Sicily, “The mission of Sicilia DOC is to unite passionate winemakers throughout the region and together raise awareness of Sicilian wines around the world.” To learn more, please visit http://winesofsicily.com  Let’s start with the Feudo Principi di Butera 2016 Insolia. The Insolia grape is also referred to as Inzolia and Ansonica. It is Sicily’s fourth most widely planted grape and grown primarily in western Sicily. The 2016 Insolia is 100% Insolia. The grapes are harvested from the districts of Butera and Riesi. The color of the wine is soft yellow with seductive aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and a tease of floral. This is a lively and medium-bodied wine that offers a juicy palate of pear, stone fruit and citrus. Hints of lemon zest, herbs and almonds round out the finish. This is a great wine to serve as an aperitif or with cheese, fruit and light pastas. Alcohol: 13% Price range: $16   Feudo Principi di Butera’s 320-hectare estate is owned by the Zonin family. It is located in the province of Caltanissetta and extends into the ancient lands of Feudo Deliella. To quote Gianni Zonin, “I am proud that our Sicilian estate is a bastion of quality and the rural way of life, an oasis of the traditions which we want to defend”. http://www.feudobutera.it Nero d’Avola is one of the oldest indigenous grapes of Sicily. It is considered the most important Sicilian red and the most widely planted red variety on the island. The Villa Pozzi 2016 Nero d’Avola DOC is made with 100% Nero d’Avola grapes. The color is deep ruby with aromas of black raspberry, cherry, red plum and spice. This is a full-bodied wine with intense flavors of dark berries, sour cherry, fennel and hints of cocoa and sour cherry lingering on the finish. The wine is fruit forward with soft tannins and is beautifully balanced. Serve with meats, stews and lighter fare as well! Alcohol: 13% Price range: $10   Villa Pozzi vineyards are located in the hills surrounding Marsala, Salemi and Mazzara del Vallo in northwestern Sicily. Daniele Pozzi, owner and the family’s fourth generation winemaker says, “When you open a bottle of Villa Pozzi, our hope is to transport you to a cozy Italian villa nestled in a small Sicilian town far away from the busy everyday. It’s a leisurely escape from the world outside and a journey of taste that makes any day feel special.” https://www.villapozziwines.com As I continue to make my way around the vineyards of Sicily, the quality and passion that goes into winemaking is evident in every glass of wine I taste. I’m looking forward to more “tastes of the vine from Sicily”.
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] A few weeks ago I wrote about the wine estate, Domaine Bousquet, located high up in the Gualtallary Valley of Tupungato, Argentina. These are noteworthy wines which incorporate French and Argentine techniques in the wine production. If you haven’t read the story yet, please do so at: Day 622 http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2018/01/day-622-bonjour-argentina.html This will give you the history of the estate, a brief description of the climate and terroir and essentially bring you up to speed for the following story. Last week I had the pleasure of sitting down with Anne Bousquet for a delightful lunch and tasting of her estate’s wines. Let me start by saying that Anne is warm, down to earth and very passionate about her wines. Her enthusiasm and sense of adventure transcended itself around the table and throughout the tasting.  Although she comes from several generations of winemakers, Anne’s career path originally led her in another direction. While in 1997 her father Jean was busy buying land in Gualtallary Valley for the purpose of producing organic wines and at the same time divesting all of his vineyards in Southwest France, Anne and her husband Labid al Ameri were living in Boston, pursuing their own dreams, Anne as an economist and Labid in finance. Both these skills would prove invaluable when they became the owners of Domaine Bousquet in 2011.  All of Domaine Bousquet wines are made from 100% organic fruit and alway have been since Jean planted the first vines in 2000. Gualtallary has up to 7 different types of soil, but Domaine Bousquet is the only estate with sand as its primary soil. In fact, Jean bought the land for this very reason. To quote Anne, “Sandy soil makes elegant wines and that characteristic was very important to him as a Frenchman.” So, as I said in my last story, “with the benefits of cool climate, sandy soil, controlled water irrigation and healthy organic grapes, it certainly sets the stage for quality wines.” All the grapes at Domaine Bousquet are harvested manually and special attention is paid to preserving the purity of the organic fruit. We tasted five wines from the estate.  Sparkling Rose Brut Sparkling Rosé Brut N/V using the Charmat method (produced in tank). Grapes are 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. The color is salmon with inviting aromas of fresh red fruit, strawberry and peach that carry over to the palate. Fine bubbles, soft and foamy on the palate with a hint of citrus on the finish make this an easy wine to drink. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, light appetizers and simple pasta. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $13  Chardonnay 2017 Chardonnay 2017 is made with 100% Chardonnay and is un-oaked. This is an entry-level wine and part of the Premium Varietals series. The color is soft yellow with lovely aromas of citrus, fresh fruit and floral notes. The palate is softer in flavor than the nose has to offer, but the wine still delivers hints of tropical and stone fruit with good acidity. Perfect as an aperitif or with light fare. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $13  Gaia Red Blend 2015 Gaia Red Blend 2015 is made with 50% Malbec, 45% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The color is dark purple with heady aromas of anise, violet and dark berries. The palate offers silky tannins with dark fruit, dark cherry, hints of spice and white pepper on a long finish. This is a wine that will complement just about any dish from appetizers to dessert! Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20  Reserve Malbec 2016 Reserve Malbec 2016 is made with 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Syrah. The grapes are harvested from the estate’s best plots with low yields. Wine is aged in French oak barrels for 10 months. The color borders on deep red and plum with bold aromas of dark berries, spice and black plums. The palate offers soft fruit with layers of blackberry, raspberry, dark cherry and hints of chocolate and pepper. Beautifully balanced with silky tannins and a long finish. The aging potential is 5 to 6 years. Serve with meat, stews, cheese and dessert! Alcohol: 14% SRP: $18  Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 is made with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec. The grapes are harvested from the estate’s best plots with low yields. Wine is aged in French oak barrels for 10 months. The color is dark red bordering on purple with a mix of dark berry, spice and herbal aromas. The palate offers an abundance of juicy dark fruit, spice and hint of earth and cocoa on the finish. Full bodied with soft tannins. This wine will pair well with hearty entrees and aged cheese. Aging potential is 5 to 6 years. Alcohol: 14.4% SRP: $18 Anne and Labid are not only proponents of organic sustainability, but they have poured their hearts and souls into economic sustainability for the Tupungato community, helping to transform the economy. In addition to joining an alliance of local wineries to fund construction for a new road, Anne and Labid have also undertaken a project to train locals in wine growing and office work. Many of the locals were then hired and are now an integral part of Domaine Bousquet. Read more at www.domainebousquet.com
Anne and Labid and their 10-year-old daughter now live in Miami and travel to Tupungato for one week out of every month to walk the vineyards and spend time at the winery. Jean Bousquet is happily retired and content tending to his 99 acres in Gualtallary Valley and producing wine for himself! With two decades in business, a brand presence in over 50 countries and a quality to price ratio that is hard to beat, Anne summed it up in one sentence, “We just want to make high-quality wines that others can afford”. And they are doing just that! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] The other day I had the opportunity to attend a seminar and walk around tasting of many impressive Brunello wines from the Consortium of The Brunello of Montalcino Wine. Although the emphasis was on the 2013 vintage, I also sampled wines dating from 2010 through 2015.  The consortium was founded in 1967 and started with a membership of 20 producers. Today there are more than 200 members of which 31 estates were represented at this event. Montalcino is located in the Tuscany wine region of Italy.  Montalcino is a small wine region with 3500 acres of vineyards and roughly 250 wineries producing Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello di Montalcino was awarded the first ever DOCG designation in 1980 and is considered one of Italy’s most famous and distinguished wines. DOCG stands for Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin and it is the highest designation given under Italian wine law.  Brunello di Montalcino wine is made exclusively with 100% Sangiovese grapes (named ‘Brunello’ in Montalcino). The skin of the Sangiovese grape is thick and tends to deliver a wine that is fruit forward with bright acidity and high tannins. Of course climate, soil and production play a big part in the wine’s outcome. The village of Montalcino sits high up on a hill with the vineyards sloping downward into the valley.   The climate in Montalcino is warm and dry, typical Mediterranean weather. Vineyards are planted up to 500 meters in elevation with north facing slopes experiencing a cooler microclimate and more winds, while the southern and western facing slopes are exposed to extreme sunlight and maritime breezes. The vines are planted in a variety of soils such as limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil and galestro, all of which contribute to the difference in quality, complexity and character of the wine. DOCG Regulations require that Brunello di Montalcino age for 2 years in oak casks, 4 months in bottle (6 months for the Riserva) and bottling must take place in the production area. Brunello di Montalcino must be aged for a minimum of 5 years (6 years for Riserva) prior to release for sale.  Most of the 2013 vintages I tasted were quite approachable and gentler than the more aggressive and bold Brunello I’ve had in the past. My palate was treated to a gamut of flavors such as dark berries, cherry, aromatic wood, anise, leather and spice. “Lush fruit, round tannins, quite aromatic, good structure and high acidity” seemed to be the theme for most of the 2013s with variations according to soil and plot locations. Brunello wines are impressive and I look forward to trying the 2013 vintage again in about five years!
Montalcino wines also include Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Moscadello di Montalcino DOC and Sant’Antimo DOC. I will be exploring these wines in another post. If you like collecting wines, do yourself a favor and pick a bottle or two of Brunello and tuck them away to enjoy at a future date. The aging potential of these wines is 8 to 25 years. Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Sherry is a fortified white wine that is making a big comeback. I recently attended the 5th annual Sherry tasting in NYC where I met with 21 winemakers and representatives pouring over 150 different sherries!  Sherry has been around for centuries and is considered one of the oldest wines in the world. Authentic sherry can only come from the southwest area of Spain, in Andalucía which is recognized by the DO (denomination de origin). There are three main towns here that form a triangle called the “Sherry Triangle”. It is from within this triangle of Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlúcar de Barrameda that sherry is made. The grapes used for making sherry are Palomino, Muscatel and Pedro Ximenez. The soil, which is chalk and limestone based, the winds, humidity and seasonal changes in this area all contribute to giving sherry its unique characteristics.  Sherry is known for its aromatic, salty and nutty profile and runs from dry to sweet, although the majority of sherry produced is dry. The color of sherry ranges from light straw to dark brown. The photo below was taken from a sherry seminar that I attended last year and represents a wide range of sherry colors.   All sherry is aged for a minimum of three years and aged in old sherry casks using the Solera system. The Solera system is an aging process that uses new batches of sherry mixed with older ones in a tiered or pyramid structure. The bottom tier is the solera, the eldest sherry, which never entirely leave the system. The rows above contain the younger sherries (criadera). Once a portion of the wine is extracted from the solera, it is replaced with the same amount of wine from the first criadera and so on, creating a unique complexity and personality in the wine. Because sherry is a blend of different vintages it is impossible to give an exact age of a wine that has been aged in a solera. So it is possible that one could be drinking a sherry that might contain anywhere from 3 to 100 vintages! There are several types of sherry available. Here is a quick rundown on how they differ. Fino de Jerez is the youngest (usually 3-5 years old) and the driest of sherries. They age under a layer of flor (yeast). This layer of flor protects the wine from being oxidized and it also consumes all the sugar in the wine, creating a dry sherry. Fino only comes from Jerez and El Puerto de Santa Maria. Manzanilla is another dry sherry that is just like Fino, except that Manzanilla comes only from the coastal town of Sanlúcar. Both Fino and Manzanilla have more wine salinity than the other styles. They will complement fish and shellfish. Amontillado is an aged Fino or Manzanilla. Once the layer of flor fades the wine begins to oxidize and takes on a new character. It can be fortified up to 18%. The color is darker and it is less briny, but nuttier and richer on the palate. These wines pair well with white meat and game. Palo Cortado is an interesting sherry that begins as a Fino or Manzanilla but for no known reason it unexpectedly loses its layer of flor too soon. Once the flor dies, the wine takes on oxygen and requires further fortification. In other words, it does “its own thing”. This wine has richness but is crisp as well. Oloroso (‘scented’ in Spanish) intentionally never develops flor. Aging through oxidation of up to 40+ years produces a full-bodied, aromatic, dark and rich wine. Oloroso contains the most amount of alcohol in a sherry with levels of 18% to 20%. This is a great wine for hearty entrees, meats and stews. Pedro Ximenez (PX) is an intensely sweet wine and the sweetest of the sherries. The grapes are dried in the sun allowing the juices to concentrate prior to pressing. This is a rich wine that oozes raisins, nuts and fig. Cream Sherry is usually a blend of Oloroso, PX or Moscatel but can come in a variety of styles. This is a semi-sweet wine that is aromatic, dark in color with classic notes of nuts and caramel. Here are just a few of the sherries that I tasted the other day. When it comes to pairing sherry with food, there is a saying of which I have no idea of its origin: If it swims… drink with Fino or Manzanilla) If it flies… drink with Amontillado If it walks… drink with Oloroso Sherry is versatile and there is a style for everyone. Pair it with food, drink it as you would a favorite whiskey or explore mixing it in a cocktail. Sherry is making a strong comeback and I think it’s about time! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected]
There are many historical gems that exist all over Manhattan. After living there for so many years, I’m still awestruck when I learn about or stumble across another piece of history. And to my delight, I’ve added another hidden treasure to my list of historical buildings. Last week I was invited to attend the Bruno Paillard Champagne master class in New York.  The event took place in Harriet and Bill Lembecks’ Rose Hill Historic House, located on 29th Street and 3rd Avenue. It is an 18th century farmhouse that is steeped in history. The house is on the National Register of Historic Places. After purchasing the property, the Lembecks’ converted the downstairs into a wine education center. Entering through a side gate, I walked through a “secret garden” to where the event was being held. The room was charming and beautifully furnished with a brick fireplace, fabric walls and a copper & patina finish on the tables. It was the perfect setting for Bruno Paillard to lead the master class and introduce us to his wines. See slideshow below. Champagne Bruno Paillard is located in the heart of the Champagne region. It is an independent family run house that Bruno Paillard, at the age of 27, founded in 1981. Bruno comes from a long line of Champagne vine growers and grape brokers in the two Grands Crus villages of Bouzy and Verzenay dating back to 1704. Bruno’s great grandfather was a vineyard manager and Bruno’s father Rémy had a small parcel of vines in addition to owning a grape-broking company. With a sense of purpose and having spent six years of grape-broking, it seemed only natural for Bruno to want to start his own Maison. His focus is single vintage and small production. His daughter, Alice Paillard joined her father in 2007 as co-manager. She says about her father, “Bruno Paillard is part of his Champagnes’ DNA”.  Alice Paillard with her father, Bruno. Maison Bruno Paillard is a small Champagne house with 79 acres. In 1994 Bruno purchased his first vineyard (7.5 acres). They buy only the best grapes from the Grand Cru plots which are on the greatest chalky subsoil of Champagne. Bruno says, “Where the grapes come from is more important than the composition.”  In addition to the terroir and rigorous grape selection, Bruno uses only the highest quality first press juice, which allows for more aging potential acidity and chalky minerality. The addition of sugar (dosage) is minimal to “let the freshness shine through” and the ageing is two to four times longer than the legal minimum in Champagne. In 1983, Bruno Paillard became the first Champagne producer to print the disgorgement date on the label of every single bottle produced. Disgorgement is a critical step in making Champagne and other sparkling wines. After the second fermentation in the bottle, sediment forms and must be coaxed to the neck of the bottle, called remuage. The bottles are turned in such a way as to allow the sediment to move towards the neck of the bottle over a period of 8 days to 5 weeks. Once the remuage is complete, the neck of the bottle is frozen, the cork is pulled and the sediment which is now ice, is expelled. The bottles are then recorked and returned to the cellar to “rest and recuperate”. The Première Cuvée and the Rosé Première Cuvée rest for a minimum of 5 months, the Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru rests for 8 months, the wine vintages rest for 8 to 12 months, and up to 18 months for the Nec Plus Ultra. “During the convalescence, the wine will recover a balance between freshness and softness of the dosage, to make a perfect marriage.” For a more comprehensive and fascinating description of the whole process, please read: http://www.champagnebrunopaillard.com/en/disgordement-the-wines-lives-after-disgordement/ We tasted a beautiful and diverse selection of wines.   Champagne (Extra Brut) Première Cuvée, MV the “flagship” of the house. Fine bubbles, ripe citrus fruit, dry with a clean finish SRP $50 Champagne (Extra Brut) Rosé Première Cuvée MV Copper/salmon color with fine bubbles, lively, red fruit, dry, minerality and depth. SRP $70 Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2002 Fine bubbles, love the dryness perfectly balanced with fruit, salty, floral notes Elegant! SRP (Magnum) $120 Champagne Assemblage 2002 Miniscule bubbles, playful with notes of citrus, stone fruit, salt, chalk and oak SRP $90 Champagne N.P.U. “Nec Plus Ultra” 2002 A delicate wine with fine bubbles and golden appearance. There are layers upon layers of fruit, spice and herbs to discover. Beautifully balanced. Creamy texture with a long finish. It is interesting to note that only 17 villages out of 320 in Champagne are entitled to the appellation “Grand Cru”. Nec Plus Ultra comes exclusively from six of the Grand Cru appellations. This wine spends 13 years in the cellar prior to disgorgement and then another 2 years to rest, making this a very unique Champagne.. SPR $275 All of the above Champagnes will drink beautifully as aperitifs or complement cheese, fruit, white meats, fish and poultry. Bruno Paillard Champagne is elegant, but one doesn’t have to wait for a special occasion to pop one of these corks. A lot of love, thought and labor has gone into producing these wines. To quote Bruno “Champagne is my passion. It is my life. I was born here and I will be buried here.”   Halloween is a holiday that is enjoyed and celebrated by both young and old. It’s a fun holiday that gives the grownups an excuse to exercise their creative talents, whether it’s carving a pumpkin, dressing up in costume, planning spooky party themes or cooking up imaginative recipes. There are many Halloween cocktail recipes to choose from such as Poison Apple Cocktail, Black Devil Martini and Zombie Slime Shooters! However, if you’re more inclined to drink wine on Halloween, then you might want to pick up a bottle of Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, a limited edition Halloween gift pack that comes from “The Devil’s Cellar” in Chile.  Around this time last year, I reviewed the 2015 vintage and told the story behind Concha y Toro’s flagship brand, Casillero del Diablo Devil’s collection. It is a story worth telling again and so fitting for this time of year! Don Melchor Concha y Tora founded the vineyard in 1883. Legend has it that more than 130 years ago a ship set sail from Bordeaux carrying a cargo of precious vines. The ship landed in Chile where the grapes were turned into a mysterious wine. The wines were locked up for safekeeping but continually disappeared from the cellar. So in order to stop the theft of the wine, a rumor was spread that the devil lived in the cellar. Everyone became terrified and some people claimed to have seen the devil. No one was ever able to solve the mystery and Don Melchor Concha y Toro continued to enjoy his wines. To this day, it is known as the “devils cellar”. Casillero del Diablo means “devils locker” in Spanish. The cellar is located in Pirque, close to Santiago. The “devil” logo is on every bottle. The 2016 vintage comes from the Central Valley region and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The color is dark red with beautiful aromas of blackberry, fennel, cherry and a hint of sweet spice. The palate offers dark cherries and berries subtly layered with spices and white chocolate. The finish is long and impressive! This is a medium-bodied wine with silky tannins that will pair well with stews, hearty soups, meats, bold cheeses and spicy dishes. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $12 http://www.conchaytoro.com http://www.casillerodeldiablo.com And now it’s time for me to start planning my costume for this year. I think this witch’s hat has seen its day. It is time for something new!  |
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