For me, there is nothing like pouring a glass of wine that not only sates my palate but can also conjure up sweet memories. And this quote from Coppo says it perfectly. “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste. This doesn’t have anything to do with its aromas or flavors, but of a sensation that awakens memories of pleasant times.” Piero Coppo founded Coppo winery in 1892 and it is one of the oldest family-run wineries in Italy spanning four generations. Piero’s philosophy was about making quality wine, not quantity. His sense of ethics, attention to detail, perfection, passion for the land and his vision for the future have been passed on from one generation to the next. Below is a photo of the four brothers representing the third generation with fourth-generation Luigi in the middle. This historic winery is located in the famous commune of Canelli, a subzone in the province of Asti in the Piedmonte region of Italy. Canelli is noted for its important role in history for being the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine made with Moscato Bianco grapes. Canelli became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2014 and it is famous for its surrounding historic vineyards and intricate subterranean wine cellars called “Underground Cathedrals”. These cellars weave in and out of Canelli for about 20 miles. Part of these historical wine cellars are located at Coppo Winery and are a UNESCO World Heritage site. While visiting Coppo a few months ago, fourth-generation Luigi Coppo gave us a tour of these impressive cellars. He said, “In parts of this tunnel there are over 42 meters of dirt above us. The tunnels are ideal for storing wine because it is stable in here with constant and perfect temperature and humidity. This all-natural tunnel was built in the late 18th century with an addition in 1920 that took only one week to build”! Below is a slideshow of the Underground Cathedrals. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Coppo built their business producing sparkling wines, but by the beginning of the 20th century, their production expanded to making classic Piedmontese reds, most notably, Barbera. Piero’s son, Luigi (second generation) entered the business in the late 1940s and was responsible for restoring and modernizing the winery. He also brought with him a passion for French wine. During the 60s and 70s, the winery began importing wines from Burgundy and Champagne. Luigi’s four sons (third-generation) entered the family business between the 70s and 80s). Inspired by the great French wines that their father imported, the four brothers infused their personal style in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines and Chardonnay. Coppo is one of the first producers in the area to make Chardonnay, although Chardonnay and Pinot Nero have been growing in the hills around Canelli since the early 1800s. Monteriolo Chardonnay is dedicated to their father Luigi and the first vintage was introduced in 1984. Here is a bottle shot of the 2017 Monteriolo Chardonnay that I tasted while at the winery. It was exquisite! Unlike many other wineries, the third generation made it their mission to maintain the quality of Barbera over quantity and ensure that its elegant character was preserved. This brought about a change for stricter management in the vineyards, lower yields, hand harvesting and introducing barriques during maturation, making Coppo at the cutting edge of Barbera’s rebirth. These changes helped to give the wines more complexity and richness. The 1984 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso was the first harvest, becoming the symbol of the winery. The fourth-generation, cousins Max and Luigi, are focusing on “a new style of communication”, called the Internet! By engaging the younger generation of wine lovers while blending “a lighter side of wine” with traditional values they hope to introduce their palates to affordable and quality wine. Today, the major part of Coppo production is focused on Barbera, Metodo Classico sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Moscato d’Asti. Coppo also makes classic DOCG Piedmontese wines such as Gavi and Barolo. It is interesting to note that due to the winery’s historical importance, they have been granted permission to make Barolo outside of its zone of production. The Coppo estate covers over 52 hectares of vineyards with the heart of productive vineyards in Monferrato in Southern Piedmont. Here is where Moscato Bianco and Pinot Nero are grown. Barbera grapes are grown in Agliano Terme and Castelnuovo Calcea located in the heart of the subzone, Nizza. Coppo also manages the estate La Rocca situated in Monterotondi di Gavi, where the Cortese grapes are grown. As stated by Coppo, “Since 2001, Coppo winery has followed an official protocol for integrated agriculture that sustains farming practices with low environmental impact. The winery goes above and beyond the regulations, and for several years now has decided to follow agricultural methods in the spirit of organic and biodynamic agriculture, while not being officially certified.” I asked Luigi how climate change might be affecting vineyards and production. His reply, “Climate change exists and of course, it is impacting our vineyards and production. What we are experiencing in the last years is an anticipated ripeness of our grapes, which means an anticipated harvest. It does not mean this is worse or better but we have to follow nature. We are experiencing higher temperatures now and that means higher alcohol. But please consider alcohol is not a problem if the wine is well balanced. For some specific varieties such as Barbera, we cannot control or decide what is the right amount of alcohol because we have to manage the acidity and so we have to pick the grape when the grape is ripe. We can pick grapes earlier but it won’t work out well.” I asked Luigi what the biggest challenge Coppo might be facing in the vineyards. He responded, “There is not a specific challenge. According to my father and uncles stories back in the day, the harvest season was more or less predictable. Today it is different and we have to “react” quickly. Every day is different and every harvest (thank god) is different too.” Upon my return home from visiting the Coppo estate, I received six bottles of their wines. The wines transported me back to Canelli “awakening memories of a special time.” These wines are all gems and worthy of review. Coppo Moncalvina Moscato D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli. It is a light, sweet wine with floral and stone fruit aromas that transcend to the palate. It has a natural light fizziness and is very refreshing. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $15 Coppo Costebianche Chardonnay 2017 This is 100% Chardonnay that is harvested from Piemonte DOC appellation. 20% of the must is fermented and aged on fine lees in French oak barrels of 2nd and 3rd-year use. This is a delightfully fresh and fragrant wine with notes of floral, stone fruit, apple and a hint of lemon. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Coppo La Rocca Gavi DOCG 2018 Gavi is a classic white Piedmontese wine made with 100% Cortese grapes. Cortese is one of the region’s oldest native grapes. The Tenuta La Rocca vineyard has marly calcareous soils that contribute to the wine’s mineral complexity. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach and pineapple lead to a palate of minerality, grapefruit, green apple, honeysuckle and a nice balance of fresh acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $20 Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Barbera. Wonderful aromas of juicy red berries and spice tickle the nose with a palate full of lively acidity, cherry, berries, pomegranate, spice and a hint of nutmeg. Raspberry and spice linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $17 Coppo Camp Du Rouss Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2016 I love the story that goes with the name of this wine. “Camp del rosso” in Italian means “the redhead’s field”. ‘Camp’ in Piedmontese means vineyard. The first owner of this vineyard was a redheaded man who was so burly, he frightened the children. However, the wine is far from frightening! It is 100% Barbera that has been aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Intense aromas of red fruit and spice lead to a palate of sour cherry, red berries, cranberry, spice and a hint of dark chocolate. This is a well-structured wine that lingers on the palate and begs for another sip. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Coppo Pomorosso Barbera D’Asti Nizza DOCG 2016 This wine is the most prestigious Barbera produced by Coppo. Its fame is owed to the significant part it played in the rebirth of this variety. With the release of the 2016 vintage, the wine bottle bears the new Nizza DOCG designation. This took years of collaboration to elevate the status of this vine growing region. The Coppo family along with other prominent Barbera d’Asti producers was involved in this effort and is now proud to represent this new designation. Grapes are sourced from 50 to 60-year-old vines in the Nizza DOCG appellation. The wines are aged from 14 to 18 months in French oak. This is a beautiful wine with nicely integrated tannins and acidity. Intoxicating aromas of red fruit, dark cherry, floral and baking spice segue onto the palate with dark plum, dark berries and a touch of sour cherry, pomegranate and herbs. I tasted the 2017 vintage while visiting Coppo and was reminded of how expressive this wine is. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $55 Every wine bottle is adorned with the symbol of a cherub. While visiting Coppo I photographed the statue, which sits on a shelf in their tasting room. I asked Luigi what its significance is. Luigi said, “This is a gift given from a sculptor to my great grandfather at the very beginning of the 20th century. It is a little angel (Cupido) trying to stop the fermentation of a bottle of sparkling wine (gran spumante). It became the logo and mascot of the winery.” Of course, I was secretly hoping that the cherub was trying to capture the aromas and essence of the sparkling wine! Although I couldn’t capture it on camera, the family motto is engraved at the cherub’s feet. “Robur et salus” (strength and health). Tasting all of these wines again was a treat for my palate. And it was wonderful to be briefly transported back to Piedmonte. Coppo definitely got it right when they said, “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste.” They certainly do! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Today’s post is short, but I felt that this wine deserved extra attention rather than just giving a “shout out” on social media. If you haven’t yet read my story, “Two Cultures + Two Estates = Elegant Wines”, then please click on the link below to catch up and learn about Bodegas Caro and its very special wines. Trust me, it’s worth the four-minute read! http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2020/01/two-cultures-two-estates-elegant-wines.html The first vintage that was born out of the collaboration between the Catena family and Domaines Barons de Rothschild was Bodegas CARO 2000. It’s success led to two more wines that I reviewed in the above story. After tasting and reviewing Amancaya and Aruma Malbec, I was delighted to recently receive a bottle of CARO and I must say, it was worth the wait! Bodegas CARO 2016 is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Malbec. Grapes are selected and hand-harvested from the best blocks of the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. This wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels from Lafite’s cooperage. It is a beautifully structured wine with deep ruby tones and aromas of dark berries, plum, spice and a hint of cedar. It takes your palate on a happy journey with layers of juicy dark fruit, plum, baking spice, anise and a lingering taste of sour cherry on a long finish. It is a perfect balance of acidity and tannins and it will only get better with age. And I look forward to tasting this vintage again in a few years. Serve with hearty meat dishes, stews and seared tuna.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $64.99 Bodegas Caro wines are a stunning blend of two cultures, history and tradition that are poured into every bottle of wine produced. They are simply elegant! Until next time! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] While visiting Asti in the Piedmont region of Italy a few months ago, I spent an afternoon at a walk-around tasting of the ASTI DOCG wines. One of the tables that I stopped by was Fontanafredda where I met the delightful Chiara Destefanis, Communications Director for the estate, who poured a variety of delicious sparkling wines for me to try. Little did I know that just a short six weeks later I would be sitting across the table from Chiara at a winemaker’s luncheon in New York! Only this time the emphasis was on Fontanafredda Barolo wines. Giorgio Lavagna, Fontanafredda’s lead winemaker was there as well to guide us through an impressive tasting of current releases and a few library treats dating back over 20 years. Fontanafredda estate is located in the Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy. It all began with a love story. In 1858 King Vittorio Emanuele II bought the Fontanafredda estate as a gift for his beloved and favorite mistress, Rosa Vercellana aka “La bela Rosin”. They had two children together, who eventually inherited the estate, Maria Vittoria and Emanuele Alberto, Count of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda. In 1866, the king bought the first vineyard of Barolo and by 1870 winemaking began in the cellars of Fontanafredda using the indigenous grapes Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo. The king’s son Count Emanuele Alberto of Mirafiori turned the estate into a full commercial winery with over 741 acres of wine vineyards. Fontanafredda released their first Nebbiolo labeled as Barolo with the 1878 vintage, the same year that the king passed away. The count is credited with making Barolo legendary and turning Fontanafredda into a village, complete with a church and school. After the count’s passing in 1894, his second son, Gastone took over. Unfortunately, Phylloxera, several wars and the economic depression took a toll on the wine business. A bank bought the estate and cellar, and the brand was sold to the Gancia family in 1931. It wasn’t until 2009 that Fontanafredda was sold to Piedmont native, Oscar Farinetti and Luca Baffigo Filangieri. The 250-acre estate is in Serralunga d’Alba, which is a cru site of Barolo, and it is the largest contiguous wine estate in the Langhe. With the new ownership in 2009, sustainability became a special focus and today Fontanafredda is the largest certified organic company in Piedmont, beginning with the 2018 harvest. The climate is typically continental in the Langhe with rain usually arriving in the spring and fall. Rainfall amounts vary and can be a large determinant in the diversity of the harvest from one year to the next. Soil here is mainly calcareous, but composition can change every 10 meters or so with more sand or higher content of loam and clay. Our tasting began with 2012 Alta Langa DOCG Contessa Rosa Rosé Sparkling wine with the addition of Barolo 1967! This wine is named after the king’s mistress, Countess Rosa Vercellana. It is an aromatic and fresh wine with berries, a hint of herbs, fine bubbles and balanced acidity. Giorgio said, “The Barolo is added to the wine to give smoothness”. Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2015 This is the first single-village Barolo ever produced since 1988. Giorgio said, “the soil in Serralunga has a strong influence, helping to produce grapes with strong tannins and high acidity, making the wine more age-worthy. 2015 was a very good vintage.” This wine is velvety even with the pronounced tannins. It has great structure and balance and the fruit is lush with cherry and spice. Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda 2013 This wine is considered an “old-style” vintage with aging in oak casks for two years and then 12 months in the bottle. (This is minimum aging allowed for the DOCG) It has lots of spice, red fruit, tart cherry and silky tannins. It is quite expressive and has a lengthy finish. Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2011 and 1996 No one really knows if this 20-acre vineyard is named after the king’s love for Countess Rosa or a tribute to the wild roses that grow on the top of the hills. I’d like to think that it is named after the countess. After all, it is one of the most prestigious vineyards on the estate. It is a perfect scenario for growing grapes with a landscape in the form of an amphitheater and rows of vines facing south and southwest, capturing the heat and helping the grapes to ripen. The soil also contributes with its rich mixture of sand, limestone and blue marl of Serralunga. All of this results in exquisite Barolos with floral aromas, fine tannins and balanced acidity. The 2011 vintage is complex with a rich palate of dark berries, spice, soft tannins and a long finish. Sergio called the 1996 vintage, “old-style Barolo that is dark and brooding”. Although the aromas were leaning toward stewed fruit such as plum and cherry, along with sweet spice and forest, the palate was surprisingly rich with traces of dark cherry, plum and herbs. The finish was long and impressive. Barolo 2010 Riserva and 2000 Riserva Barolo Riserva is only made in exceptional years and comes exclusively from Fontanafredda’s estate vineyards within the communes of Serralunga d’Alba and Barolo. To be considered a Riserva, the wine must age for five years, three years in the barrel and two years in the bottle before its release. Giorgio said, “A minimum aging of three years in barrel is required for Riserva wine, but sometimes even five years is not enough. The wines need to express themselves, and only time can do that.” Barolo Riserva 2010 has enticing aromas of red berries, cherry and spice. The palate is layered with dark berries, plum, sour cherry, spice and silky tannins. Riserva 2000 aromas are softer with very ripe (almost overripe fruit) and spice. The palate shows softer fruit and less spice than the 2010 vintage. There are hints of sour cherry and anise with a silky mouthfeel and long finish. As we sipped and ate lunch, Giorgio reminisced about Barolo winemaking in the 1970s. “I didn’t produce wine in the 70s, I just tasted it. Everything was by chance and depended on the moon phase. No studies were being done. In the past, farmers and winemakers went on their own paths, each with their own role. There was no communication”. Thankfully, all of that has changed and communication is key between grower and winemaker. They say it takes a village to raise a child. It also takes teamwork and the right climate and soil to produce these expressive and elegant wines!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] While searching for a bottle of wine to open this past weekend, I came across a few empty wine bottles that I have been transporting from one living space to another for the past few decades. Due to my last move and lack of space, many of my empty bottles were tossed out in favor of the full ones. Although, I do regret recycling my Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne 1993, 1978 and 1981 vintage bottles. So, what did I hold onto? It was a difficult decision but I selected three bottles that were the most meaningful to me. As you might recall from past stories, “The Restaurateur”, my late husband, first introduced these amazing wines to my palate when we began dating in 1979. I was quite naïve when it came to drinking wine, but Robert quickly educated my palate and there was no turning back. My introduction to what I call “real wine” began with a bottle of 1969 Château Petrus. I remember the first sip like it was yesterday and it was awe-inspiring, to say the least. Fortunately, for me, we had several cases of it and throughout the years I’ve opened a bottle or two with special friends and enjoyed this wine’s rich and powerful flavors. Sad to say, I have only one bottle left and I’m sure that I will be drinking it before the end of this year. Château Haut-Brion 1961 and 1969 vintages were not uncommon for Robert and me to drink with dinner and I held onto the last bottle of Château Haut-Brion 1961 until four years ago. In fact, after opening it I wrote a review. “The cork was soft but came out easily. The wine was then poured into a decanter with surprisingly very little sediment. The color was deep garnet with fruity aromas that were indiscernible. A quick sip after decanting assured us that the wine was very drinkable. After thirty to forty minutes, the wine began to open. It was full-bodied, had substance and was as smooth as silk. Over time, the palate offered a complex array of dark, sweet fruit with a smoky edge. The fruit continued to the very last sip. This was without a doubt a heavenly experience. The Haut-Brion has stood the test of time and one should expect no less from a Premier Cru Classé First Growth!” And last, but far from least is the bottle of Château d’Yquem 1961. This Superior First Growth was the first Sauternes that I ever tasted. It truly is the most exquisite sweet wine my palate has known. It became part of our New Year’s Eve tradition. Robert and I would start the evening with Cristal Champagne and end it with a bottle of d’Yquem for our midnight toast. I no longer have any Château d’Yquem and it is a very rare occasion that I get to drink it, but it is a wine that my palate will never forget. Although these wine bottles may appear to be empty, they are not. They are filled with powerful memories that are just as beautiful and gratifying as the wine they once held.
What wine bottles are you holding onto? Share your stories with me. Until next time, Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Having visited Sicily a few times over the past three years, I had the opportunity to spend time at many wineries, drink a variety of memorable wines and indulge in mouthwatering cuisine. I completely fell in love with the beauty and culture of the island. I have traveled from Catania to Trapani and in-between and even spent time on the enchanting island of Pantelleria. However, the one area of Sicily that still eludes me is Mt. Etna. Thanks to Donnafugata, I was recently gifted a holiday basket that included a bottle of their Fragore Etna Rosso DOC, one of the newest editions to their portfolio. After one sip my palate did a happy dance as I was momentarily transported back to Sicily. I have written numerous stories and reviews about Donnafugata that you can read under the category “Donnafugata” on the right-hand side of this page. So, without further ado, I’m heading straight to Mt. Etna…at least my palate is! In addition to four other areas with vineyards spread across Sicily, Donnafugata has approximately 18 hectares of vineyard production on Etna in eastern Sicily and all 18 hectares are in the DOC zone. The vineyards are located on the north side of the volcano and are spread out among 5 districts, with the highest altitude of 750 meters above sea level in Randazzo. While this area benefits from the Mediterranean climate, the proximity of the very active Mt. Etna volcano plays an important role in the surrounding soils. This soil is rich with volcanic nutrients thanks to volcanic ash and rock, which in turn provides nutrients to the grapevines and ultimately helps to create more concentrated flavor and complexity in the wines. The soils for this particular wine are rather unique as explained on Donnafugata’s website. “With its eruptions, Etna produces “sciare”, accumulations of lava, that through long physical-chemical processes give rise to the sandy, and therefore cultivable, soils on the slopes of the volcano. Each lava flow, that took place in different historical periods, determines a specific composition of the terrains: this is the imprint that makes the wine from a micro-territory unique. In particular, the lava flow of Montelaguardia, where the cru Fragore is produced, dates back to 1614-1624.” Donnafugata Fragore Etna Rollo DOC Contrada Montelaguardia 2016 This first vintage wine is made with 100% Nerello Mascalese. The grapes are sourced and handpicked from Montelaguardia area of Randazzo and vinified at Donnafugata’s winery in Randazzo. Aging took place in French oak barrels for 14 months and then a minimum of 10 months in the bottle before release. A bright color of red raspberry leads to a beautiful bouquet of floral, red berries, cherry, sweet spice, minerality and a whiff of smoke. The palate offers a profusion of berries, cherry, minerality and hints of balsamic and anise. Spice and sour cherry linger on a long and luxurious finish. This is an elegant wine that is delicately balanced with refreshing acidity and tannins. This complex wine brings the essence of Mt. Etna to your palate! Serve with grilled meat, tuna and spicy or tangy cuisine. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $85 Fragore literally means ‘crash or thunder’ in Italian, and the interpretation here is that of “thunder’ alluding to the explosive and volcanic thunder of the volcano. Every whimsical label of Donnafugata wines tells a story called “Dialog With Art” that I like to include with my reviews. Here is the dialog for Fragore. “Donnafugata is “projected” towards the future, like an object launched into space, attracted by invisible gravities. Illustrator Stefano Vitale captures this perpetual motion perfectly in the latest label of Fragore that represents the volcano’s roar. Donnafugata continues its journey towards the most remote corners of Sicily: east to Vittoria and then up to the highest point on the island, on the Etna volcano.”
The next time you want to experience the wonders of Mt. Etna, pour a glass of Fragore and immerse yourself in the magic of Sicily! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It began in 1999 with the birth of a partnership between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and the Catena family of Mendoza. Their mission was to produce a wine that would combine French and Argentine cultures. Baron Eric de Rothschild described it as, “An association between two cultures, two families and two noble grapes.” Bodegas Caro was born and the two signature grapes of each producer, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon became the focus of their endeavors. Together, these families have combined their knowledge and expertise to produce elegant wines. The Catena family, who has produced wine for four generations, contributed their knowledge of the high altitude terroirs of the Mendoza region and to find the best vineyards for Malbec. Domaines Barons de Rothschild contributed their knowledge and centuries-old skills in growing, vinifying and aging Cabernet Sauvignon. DBR also imparted the art of blending different grape varieties to produce one great wine. The first vintage in 2000, called CARO, was a success and led to the creation of Amancaya in 2003, a Malbec dominated cuvée. Aruma Malbec (100%) was introduced with the 2010 vintage. The vineyards are located in two zones in Mendoza. The first zone is in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú. This zone is noted to be among the best in Argentina for making wines. The altitude range is 2625 ft. to 2953 ft. with average temperatures of 46 to 73 degrees. The second zone is in the Uco Valley in Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. The altitude range is 3280 ft. to 5250 ft. with average temperatures of 44 degrees to 71 degrees. The high elevations in these zones are beneficial to the grapes due to the high daytime temperatures and cooler nights. This diurnal temperature variation contributes to slowing the ripening process, extending the growing season and allowing the grapes time to produce balanced sugar and acidity. All of the grapes are handpicked and hand-sorted before de-stemming and vinification to make sure that only the best grapes are used. Each vintage is aged in oak barrels, 18 months for CARO and 12 months for Amancaya. Most of the barrels are made at the DBR’s cooperage in Bordeaux. Aruma Malbec is aged in tanks to preserve the fruit-driven style and to allow the varietal characteristics of the grape to come through. Overseeing all of this is Philippe Rolet, Estate Manager and winemaker who joined Bodegas Caro in January 2019. Philippe was born in Jura, France into a family-owned winery, Domaine Rolet. He began his career at Domaine William Fèvre and went on to work with many prestigious wineries in Argentina, Chile and France before becoming estate manager for Bodegas Caro. I asked Philippe what his biggest challenge was in the vineyards and presumed he might speak about springtime frost and summertime hail that are common threats in high altitude vineyards. I was not expecting the following answer! "The biggest challenge we face in the vineyard is living together with ants. The vineyards in Mendoza are located in a semi-desert climate. In this environment, apart from vineyards, leaves are rare. Our vineyards are in transition for organic management. We do not use pesticides or insecticides. Therefore, ants can be very damaging, destroying young shoots and leaves in springtime, thus, reducing crops and also killing vines. Ants are part of our biodiversity. Our actual challenge is offering them something more appetizing than our vine leaves. Native flowers appear as a good alternative. We actually investigated the right native species to plant within our vineyards." After doing a little reading, I learned that ants are indeed an issue in many vineyards of Argentina. I am quite happy that Philippe and his team were able to solve their ant problem and my palate is especially pleased. I recently had the opportunity to taste two of the estate wines and I was duly impressed by their quality and expression. Bodegas Caro Amancaya Reserve Red Blend 2017
This is a blend of 72% Malbec and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were handpicked from vines over 30 years old. Aging took place for 12 months with 50% in French oak barrels and 50% in concrete vats. This ruby-red wine is filled with aromas of cherry, raspberry and baking spice. The palate is layered with lush fruit of ripe cherries and plum followed by spice and slight oak integration. A hint of cocoa and anise linger on the finish with soft tannins. This is a beautiful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that clearly shows off the marriage of Argentinian and Bordeaux styles. This wine is named after Amancaya, a mountain flower that grows in the Andes. Alcohol: 14% SRP $70.99 Bodegas Caro Aruma Malbec 2017 This wine is 100% Malbec. As previously noted, the grapes are handpicked and the wine is aged in tanks. The color is dark ruby with intense aromas of floral, red fruit and a hint of herbs. An array of juicy and fruit-driven flavors greet the palate with cherry, blackberry and spice. This is a graceful wine with a harmonious balance between tannins, acidity and alcohol. “Aruma” means “night” in the Quechua language. The name was chosen for “the intense darkness of the nights in the Andes and the pure mountain air that give the wines the rich, authentic character of their terroir.” Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $70.99 Both wines will pair well with appetizers, grilled meat, stews, hearty pasta and fatty fish such as grilled tuna. These wines are a treat to drink and priced well. I’m looking forward to tasting CARO in the next few weeks and sharing my thoughts with you. Until then… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] “SOMEONE ONCE TOLD ME YOU WILL NEVER FIGURE OUT BURGUNDY AND I PROBABLY AGREE, AFTER 30 YEARS. BUT MAYBE THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT. THE JOURNEY”. Dennis Sherman When an email popped up in my inbox asking if I’d be interested in receiving some samples of quality Burgundy wines from an online wine store based in Burgundy, my curiosity was piqued. Of course, I said yes! Not only is Elden Selections (https://www.burgundywine.com) worth writing about, but also the owners and creators of this online store are a fascinating duo to boot! Located in the east-central part of France with over 74,000 acres of vineyards, Burgundy (Bourgogne) is recognized worldwide and is considered the classic region for growing and producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The region is made up of five major growing areas, 3500 domaines, 100 appellations and over 1200 unique climate and soil compositions throughout. Needless to say, when shopping for Burgundy wines, it can be a bit confusing, if not overwhelming! Thanks to Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman (El and Den) owners of Elden Selections, they have taken the confusion out of selecting and buying these wines. It all began in 1983 when American born El and Den, with no return to tickets to Maryland, arrived in Europe with the notion of becoming apprentices to the great chefs of France. However, their journey began with backpacking, hitchhiking and making their way to North Africa for a while. With diminishing funds, they finally made their way to France. Temporary jobs saw them through a few seasons before finally getting bona fide jobs in Beaune and then eventually cooking on a hotel barge in Alsace and then in Burgundy. Two years later they bought Le Papillion, a 100-year-old barge and for the next ten years, they entertained passengers with French cuisine and wine as they traversed the waterways. Once back on dry land, El and Den established Elden Selections in1992, a Burgundy focused online wine store specializing in small-estate wine. Elden Selections is not a wine club and there is no minimum purchase required. All the wine is carefully selected and covers a wide range of appellations, with the focus on the producers. To quote Dennis, “For me, it’s all about the winemakers, the producers. We seek out those who are passionate, dedicated and creative. We work with them over many vintages to assemble our collection of wines that present the very best of Insiders Burgundy, its many and varied appellations, climats and vintages. We are not sure we'll ever figure it out fully but we are enjoying the journey. We hope you join us'. Elden Selections offers over 250 products from 30 producers, concentrating on small quantity, minimal intervention, farmer-made, food-friendly and estate- bottled. The price of wines ranges from under $30 to $300, including 13 Grand Crus! The website is user-friendly and includes invaluable resources for learning about the Burgundy region, each wine producer and a comprehensive description of each wine for sale. The website also has educational videos and wine tasting videos. El and Den have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years. They own a beautiful manor house called “The Domaine de Cromey” located just south of Beaune that is complete with six en-suite guest rooms. They offer food and wine workshops, vineyard visits and invites into wine cellars not usually open to the public. (www.domainecromey.com). In addition to wine, food is also a passion for the Shermans. Ellie is a professional chef and has published several cookbooks, sharing her joy for all things food. El and Den have an insider’s knowledge of the region, producers and wine. They live and breathe Burgundy every day. El and Den follow the harvest, taste the wines in the cellars before bottling and after bottling. I can’t think of a better place to research and buy Burgundy wines than on Elden Selections. And the best part is receiving quality wine for less than you would pay in a local wine store! The wines that I received were impressive and I will be savoring them over time thanks to my Coravin System! Check out Elden Selections website and let me know what you think!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Nestled in the gently rolling hills of Tuscany in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone lies the family-run estate of Rocca delle Macìe. The late Italo Zingarelli, a well-known actor who was also at age 28 the youngest movie producer in Italy, decided to pursue his true passion and lifelong dream of producing wine. His youngest son, Sergio said, “It was my father’s dream to have a winery.” In 1973 that dream was realized with the purchase of the “Le Macìe” estate. At the time Italo acquired it, only two acres out of 230 acres were under vine. The 14th-century farmstead was in disrepair along with acres of neglected vines. Working together, Italo and Sergio replanted the vineyards and restored the farmstead. More property was purchased and a state-of-the-art cellar was built and modern winemaking equipment was installed. Today, the family has six estates throughout Tuscany comprised of 1500 acres with a total of more than 500 acres under vine and 54 acres of olive groves. Le Macìe, Sant’Alfonso, Fizzano and Le Tavolelle estates are located in the Chianti Classico area. And Campomaccione and Casa Maria estates are located in the Morellino di Scansano area (Maremma). Italo instilled his love and passion for wine and the Tuscan land in his three children, Sergio, Fabio and Sandra. Sergio is quoted as saying, “My father Italo managed to infuse us with his great passion for the Tuscan soil and for the art of making wine. In short, he gave us the desire and the enthusiasm to continue to write that never-ending story that links wine to the lives of human beings. With his cast-iron will, he taught me that to get an idea off the ground takes determination...” In 1984 Sergio assumed responsibility for estate’s worldwide distribution and in 1989 he was appointed Company President. Sergio’s wife, Daniela works with him in running the business. Sergio has been a member of the Executive Board of the Chianti Classico Consortium since 1995 and in 2012 he was appointed President. In 2015 he was confirmed for another three years. I had the pleasure of spending an afternoon with Sergio a few months ago at a winemaker luncheon for a vertical tasting of six Rocca delle Macie’s historic cru wines made exclusively with grapes grown in their Fizzano estate vineyard. Fizzano Farm was purchased in 1984 and spans across 150 acres with 88 acres under vine. The grape varieties grown here are the iconic Sangiovese as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Miocene deposits with a sandy-loamy texture and pebbly soils make up the soil composition. The vineyards have an excellent southern exposure at 985-623 feet above sea level and the mild Mediterranean climate contributes to maintaining the balance of the grapes acidity, sugar and aromas. Our vertical tasting began with three library wines. Library wines are portions of a vintage that have been set aside in the vintner’s cellar as part of their private stock to be enjoyed at a later date. It is not uncommon to store a few cases from each vintage. This area of the cellar is referred to as “the library”. Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva di Fizzano 1995, 1999 and 2005 are made with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. They are library wines that still make a statement. The 1995 vintage still exhibits tannins along with soft, red dried fruit and earth. The 1999 vintage is rich with plum, blackberries and hints of cherry. The 2005 vintage is remarkably ripe with red berries, spice and hints of espresso. Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Riserva di Fizzano 2011 is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Gran Selezione is a new classification above Riserva for Chianti Classico DOCG as of 2014. Grapes must be harvested only from the winery’s vineyards along with upgraded requirements for alcohol, extract and a minimum aging of 30 months. The 2011 vintage is quite aromatic with a palate of ripe dark berries, dark cherry, spice and refined tannins. SRP: $39.99 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Riserva di Fizzano 2013 is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Dark berries, plum, spice, dark cherry, clove and a touch of chocolate grace the palate. SRP: $39.99 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Riserva di Fizzano 2015 The blend for this wine is 93% Sangiovese and 7% Colorino. Although Colorino is used primarily to add color to the wine, the grape has elevated tannin levels that can contribute to the complexity of the wine. This wine is very aromatic with lush berries and spice. The palate offers rich, ripe red berries, plum, cherry, spice, anise and vanilla. I look forward to tasting this wine again in a few years SRP: $39.99 In addition to the vertical tasting, we sampled four more wines that made my palate quite happy. Chianti Classico DOCG 2017 is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Aged eight months in the barrel. The palate offers fresh ripe fruit, berries, dark cherry, soft tannins and a hint of herbs. SRP: $16.99
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged two years in French oak. Ripe dark berries, spice, anise, soft tannins and a touch of herbs. SRP: $26.99 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2013 is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. The best grapes are sourced from Le Terrazze Vineyard. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak. Vibrant aromas of floral, dark fruit, toast and earth lead to a palate of berries, plum, cherry, spice, pomegranate, anise and dark coffee beans. Smooth tannins and beautifully structured. SRP: $99.99 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2014 is 100% Sangiovese. The best grapes are sourced from Le Terrazze Vineyard. It is aged for 20-24 months in French oak. This wine has a rich palate of plum, blackberry, raspberries, cherry, juicy tannins and spice. It is beautifully balanced and elegant. I asked Sergio if climate change has affected the vineyards and if so is there a difference in the wines produced. Sergio replied, “Climate changes didn't affect our vineyards but mostly the way to manage them. Our vineyard manager, of course, needs to spend more attention on the long-term forecast in order to avoid any negative influences on the canopy and of course on the grapes. Fortunately, we have now to our disposal new and more accurate technical equipment that can be used to predict and to control the balance between the growth of the vines and the quality of the grapes. Of course, the wines change if we have a hot and dry harvest or a colder one, but we are trying to keep the same style and philosophy every year.” Sergio talked about his biggest challenge in the vineyards. “We work very hard since the year 2000 to reduce or not use any chemical treatments. We can make this possible using different weather stations, with very hard work in the vineyard and using different viticulture strategies. As per example, the use of "mating disruption" to confuse some different insects with pheromones in the vineyards; the use of antagonists of some insects to control others one. Another challenge is to not use any chemical herbicides since 2000, using only mechanical removal of the herbs under the vines; maintain as best we can a stable balance in the vigor and quality of grapes ratio using only organic fertilizers and a very specific program of cover crops serving as the specific goals and nature of the soils of the different vineyards.” It was a great afternoon of exploring and tasting this impressive lineup of Rocca delle Macìe wines. All of the wines that we tasted are beautifully crafted. And as Sergio said, “The wines must be elegant and give expressions of the vineyard”. Sergio has done just that! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] If wondering what wine to serve at holiday time, you might want to add this lovely Tempranillo from Spain to your shopping list. This wine makes a bold statement, but it is light enough to pair with traditional holiday fare. CVNE (pronounced coo-nay) is an acronym for Compania Vinicola del Norte des Espana, one of Rioja’s most iconic wine producers. CVNE expanded their territory to include a 182-acre estate in Ribera del Duero in northern Spain with the focus of bringing their Rioja elegance to the rugged Ribera del Duero region. The Bela winery was built here in 1999 and is located in the village of Villalba del Duero, in the province of Burgos. Vines were planted with mostly Tempranillo in 2002 at an altitude of 2674 ft. The climate leans toward continental with a complexity of soils throughout the region. Soils for this wine are calcareous clay and sandy loam. Bela, Ribera del Duero DO 2017 is 100% Tempranillo. This wine is aged for six months in American and French, new and one-year-old oak barrels. Intense aromas of dark fruit, floral, baking spice and a touch of earth set the stage for this terroir-driven wine. The palate is layered with dark berries, dark cherry, plum, spice, anise and a hint of minerality. Vanilla and pepper linger on a long finish. This is a graceful wine with soft tannins and brimming with character. It is an easy wine to pair with a wide range of cuisine. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $19 I served this wine with mustard and brown sugar-crusted salmon, roasted brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes. It was a beautiful pairing and my palate was very happy! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Around this time last year, I reviewed Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage and Samorëns Côtes-du-Rhône Red 2015 vintages. Ferraton Père & Fils is a producer and négociant of wine throughout the Rhône Valley. Twenty percent of Ferraton production is estate wines with grapes sourced from the domaine’s 37 acres in the Northern Rhône’s Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and St. Joseph appellations. The rest is sourced from sustainably farmed fruit in both Northern and Southern Rhône appellations all of which are biodynamic and certified organic. To learn more about this producer and the Rhône Valley, please click ‘Ferraton Père & Fils’ or Rhône Valley on the menu at right. The 2017 vintages of Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage and Samorëns Côtes-du-Rhône Red are quite pleasing to the palate and light enough to be enjoyed with a variety of cuisine. La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage 2017 is 100% Syrah. Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the Northern Rhône and is known for its exceptional Syrahs. The climate here is moderate-continental and a bit cooler than the Southern Rhône but still it is far enough south to produce earlier ripening grapes. The grapes for the La Matinière are sourced and blended from a mix of estate and neighboring vineyards in the Mercurol and Beaumont-Monteux districts of central and southern Crozes-Hermitage. Glacial alluvial deposits with rounded pebbles, stones and gravel soils along with potassium residue can be found here, which contribute to fleshier, rounder wines. This wine is partly matured in oak barrels for 12 months before bottling. This wine begins with lovely floral aromas mixed with strawberry, cherry and baking spice. The palate offers an array of red fruit such as raspberry, pomegranate and sour cherry. It has a nice balance to it that finishes with hints of pepper, cherry and vanilla. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $26 Samorëns Côtes-du-Rhône Red 2017 is a blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault. Grapes are sourced from vineyards situated on the left bank of the Southern Rhône with flatter terrain that consists of stony soil including limestone, clay and sand. The climate is Mediterranean with mild winters and warm, dry summers. This terroir-driven wine bursts open with aromas of berries, floral and spice. The palate offers juicy red fruit with flavors of blackberry, dark raspberry, anise and spice with a tart plum skin finish. It is the perfect combination of fruit and savory.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $16 With the holidays fast approaching, you won’t go wrong with adding these wines to your shopping list and dinner table. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] |
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