In case you haven’t heard, Willamette Valley AVA in Oregon is an ideal place for growing and producing cool-climate varieties of wine, in particular, its award-winning Pinot Noir, which the region is best known for. Other grape varieties that do well here include Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling. Willamette Valley is located in western Oregon and is Oregon’s largest AVA stretching over 150 miles long and 60 miles wide. It borders the Columbia River to the north and runs south to the Calapooya Mountains outside Eugene. Willamette Valley has seven appellations within its borders and has the largest concentration of wineries and vineyards in Oregon. There are approximately 23,524 vineyard acres planted and it is home to 564 wineries. This is a cool-climate, maritime region named after the Willamette River that runs through the heart of it. The region is cushioned from Pacific storms on the west by the Coast Range and borders the Cascades to the east with a series of hill chains to the north. Willamette Valley enjoys a long and gentle growing season with warm summers and cool evenings. This diurnal temperature variation allows the grapes to slowly develop flavor and complexity while retaining their natural acidity. Many of the region’s vineyards are planted on hills consisting of soil derived from an old volcanic and sedimentary seabed. The major soils are marine sedimentary, volcanic and windblown loess. Jory, (red volcanic soil) is the most common soil here and runs four to six feet deep allowing for excellent drainage for these quality wine grapes. Ponzi Vineyards Ponzi Vineyards is one of Oregon’s original winegrowers and will be celebrating its 50th Anniversary this year. It began with a passion for wine and a spirit for adventure that motivated Dick and Nancy Ponzi to purchase 20 acres southwest of Portland in 1970. As founder Dick Ponzi said, “it was about the adventure of doing something we truly believed in.” Having moved to Willamette Valley with their young family in the 1960s, they did extensive research to find an ideal location to make world-class Pinot Noir. By 1974, the first barrels of Pinot Noir were produced. Over the next 30 years, Ponzi purchased more vineyards in premium appellations while winning awards and recognition for their wine. For over 25 years now Dick and Nancy’s daughters, President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria and Winemaker & Co-owner Luisa have continued their parents’ legacy with the methods, philosophies and winemaking passion established 50 years ago. Anna Maria and Luisa acquired ownership of the winery in 2012 and it became one of the country’s few sister-run wineries and one of Oregon’s few second-generation wineries. Today, Ponzi has over 140 acres of family-owned vineyards, which are LIVE Certified Sustainable. (Low Input Viticulture & Enology) It is the world’s highest standard for sustainable viticulture and enology. “Driven by the concept that the varietal must match the terroir and climate, Ponzi Vineyards continue to set the bar for Oregon.” I was very excited to receive a bottle of Ponzi’s Pinot Noir Reserve 2016. Luisa Ponzi said, “I would liken 2016 to the 2006 vintage where we saw lush, beautiful wines with unexpected elegance and acidity. Truly, a stellar vintage for Oregon.” Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve 2016 Grapes for the Reserve were sourced entirely from Laurelwood soils in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Selected barrels are from Ponzi’s prized Aurora, Abetina and Avellana Vineyards, which make up the majority of the blend with a few barrels from Linda Vista Vineyard. This wine did not go through filtration and was aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (30% new) and then aged for an additional five months in bottle before release. This wine has a ruby-red color with succulent notes of red fruit, cherry, raspberry, violets, baking spice, chocolate and hints of earth on the nose. It is silky and beautifully structured with concentrated layers of red cherry, pomegranate, red plum, refined tannins, and a touch of graphite on the palate. Hints of candy apple, chocolate, nutmeg and a dash of white pepper linger on a long finish. Drink now or hold for a few years.
Alcohol: 14.4% SRP: $65 I used my Coravin system to pour a glass of this heavenly wine and I plan to cellar the bottle for a year or so before popping the cork. However, I might be tempted to open it much sooner! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Napa Valley might be one of the smallest winegrowing regions in the world, but it is renowned for its vineyards, wineries, and of course, wine! The Napa Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) became California’s first American AVA in 1981. There are approximately 46,000 vineyard acres and over 400 wineries spread across 16 AVA appellations. Napa Valley AVA is only 30 miles long and five miles across at its widest point. Although this is a dry Mediterranean climate, within the appellations and its sub-appellations there are diverse microclimates and terrain that contribute to the grapes distinct characteristics. There are more than 34 grape varieties grown here with Cabernet Sauvignon being the most planted and Chardonnay the second. Tony Coltrin is the winemaker for Oberon Wines, which is part of the Michael Mondavi Family portfolio. Tony was born in St. Helena and is a lifelong resident of Napa Valley. Earning his oenology degree at UC Davis, he has worked in the wine industry for over 45 years. He began his career with Robert Mondavi Winery. In fact, Tony is noted for his winemaking efforts on the first vintages of Opus One as well as Robert Mondavi’s Fume Blanc. I love this quote from the Oberon website. Tony says, “Being a winemaker is not something I do every day; being a winemaker is who I am every day.” Having the advantage of being a lifelong resident, Tony knows every expression of the valley and specifically which sub-zones produce Bordeaux grapes that are exceptional. His lifelong relationships with growers throughout Napa Valley are the very essence of Oberon’s quality and consistency. Tony selects top quality fruit year after year from the finest winegrowing regions throughout Napa. I received four Oberon wine samples representing Napa Valley and Tony’s gift for winemaking. All the wines are cellared and bottled by The Michael Mondavi Family, Napa, CA. Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2019 This is a blend of 75.6% Sauvignon Blanc and 24.4% Sauvignon Musqué. The grapes are sourced from the warm Pope Valley and cool Carneros appellations. Both cold tank fermentation and 13% barrel fermentation are used to maximize the overall fruit expression. “The cold-fermentation in-tank helps us maintain the pureness of fruit and aromatics, and barrel fermentation adds a subtle creaminess and length.” Floral, pear, melon and lemon aromas open to a palate of pear, honeydew, green apple, a hint of herbs and crisp acidity. The oak fermentation adds depth and richness along with a touch of creaminess. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with seafood, grilled white meat, veggies and pasta salads. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $19 Chardonnay Los Carneros 2018 This is a blend of 99.7% Chardonnay and 0.3% Muscat. The grapes are sourced from cool, breezy, sun-drenched, western facing slopes of Los Carneros. After barrel fermentation the wine is aged in 33% new French oak for seven months. A bouquet of white flowers, pear and honey lead to a rich palate of pear, honeysuckle and apples with vanilla and caramel lingering on the finish. Fresh acidity and balanced fruit add to the expression of this wine. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with fish, light pasta, grilled veggies, or Mediterranean fare. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $22 Merlot Napa Valley 2017 This is a blend of 87.7% Merlot, 10.9% Syrah and 1.4% Zinfandel. The grapes are sourced from the Oakville district. An extended maceration naturally softens the tannins and long fermentation in French oak barrels and 12 months of barrel aging. This wine has luscious dark fruit aromas that segue onto the palate with dark berries, plum, dark cherry and mocha. This is a well-structured wine with silky tannins and elegant notes. Pair with grilled meat, roasts, stews, or seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $23 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 This wine is a blend of 92.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.3% other blending varietals. Grapes for this wine are sourced from Napa’s outstanding areas such as Rutherford, St. Helena, Oak Knoll, Yountville and Pope Valley. Taking the different expressions from each area and layering the fruit, Tony has created complexity and richness in this wine. It is aged for 13 months in 45% new French oak barrels. Lovely aromas of violet, lush dark fruit and a touch of baking spice set the stage for this elegant and expressive wine. The palate offers layers of dark berries, plum, black cherry, spice and a hint of anise. Dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate linger on a long finish. This is a well-structured wine with silky tannins and richness. Serve with grilled meat, hearty fish, pasta, or hard cheese.
Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $25 These are complex and expressive wines and they can be enjoyed all year round. I know what I’m adding to my “pour list”. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com When last I wrote, my wine glass and I were enjoying wines from the Russian River Valley, California. However, before I leave this golden state, I have two more wines to taste. The Federalist is a wine brand created by wine producer Terlato Wines that was launched in 2010. It features a range of wines sourced from several AVAs such as Lodi, Sonoma County and North Coast. All the wines are cellared and bottled by Federalist Vineyards. The Federalist pays homage to the Founding Fathers, Statue of Liberty and the American Bald Eagle with etched portraits on each bottle. “Born from the virtues of every forward-thinking, hard-working, red-blooded American, this is The Federalist. This Is American Craft Wine.” I received two samples from the The Federalist portfolio. Chardonnay 2018 This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards in Mendocino County. It is the only white wine The Federalist produces. The wine is aged in 35% new American and Hungarian oak, with a touch of French. The Hungarian oak contributes to the wine’s spicy character and the American oak rounds it out with a sweeter finish. This wine opens with enticing aromas of citrus, floral, apple and baking spice. The palate is layered with juicy pear, apple, sweet spice and a hint of cinnamon. It is rich and creamy with a surprisingly long finish. Serve as an aperitif or with light fare. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Bourbon Barrel-Aged Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from vineyards in Lodi. The wine was aged for six months in American oak and then another six months in charred bourbon barrels. Lots of fresh red fruit aromas mix with smoke and spice. The palate offers juicy fruit, raspberry, cherry, smoke, spice and vanilla. This is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins and just the right amount of acidity. Serve with grilled meat, summer salads, veggies and spicy cuisine.
Alcohol: 14% SRP: $21.99 Stay tuned for more adventures of the traveling wine glass! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Many of us are dreaming of places we’d like to travel to but can’t right now so instead, we are navigating through websites, movies, books and food to vicariously enjoy an otherwise unattainable and hopefully, short-lived situation. I have been traveling far and wide exploring wine regions around the world, one glass at a time. Today my wine glass and I are off to sunny California to taste Ron Rubin wines. Ron Rubin Ron Rubin is no stranger to wine. Having grown up in the wine/spirit wholesale business that his father started in 1950 in Illinois, Ron decided to pursue a degree in viticulture and enology at UC Davis in the early 70s. Bitten by the bug of California wines, Ron started adding wines to the company portfolio. Ron recalled, “The salesmen could not understand how to sell these wines. What I learned early on was that I needed to take our team to California, visit the wineries, learn, and then come back to sell the wines. It worked.” It wasn’t until late 2011, that Ron fulfilled a 40-year dream and purchased River Road Family Vineyards and Winery in the Green Valley AVA, a subzone of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The winery sits in the mid-slope “sweet spot” of the Green Valley. Green Valley – Russian River AVA Although Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma, it is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. Its trademark is the fog and Goldbridge soil. The fog that originates at the Petaluma Wind Gap in the coastal mountains defines Green Valley. Due to Green Valley’s proximity to the gap, this is the first place that the fog rolls in and the last place to burn off. Because of this, Green Valley encounters cooler morning temperatures for a longer period, more so than the northern parts of the Russian River. Temperature shifts are subtler here and the cool marine climate, cooler daytime readings and long growing season allow the grapes to slowly develop character and flavor as well as retain acidity and balance of sugars. This, in turn, adds to the complexity, aromas, lower alcohol and freshness of the wines. Goldridge soil is the most predominant type of soil here. It is 60% sand, 10% clay and 30% silt particles that are the remains from an ancient inland sea dating back three to five million years ago. The soil consists of a top layer of fine sandy loam that covers a subsoil of sandy loam and fractured sandstone. The soil provides good drainage and excellent, natural chemical balance. This is a perfect growing environment for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. River Road Vineyards/Ron Rubin Winery The winery has nine acres of vineyards of which 6.5 acres are devoted to growing Pinot Noir and 2.5 acres are for growing Chardonnay. Ron also buys fruit from a carefully chosen handful of growers, three of whom have been selling fruit to the winery for decades. The winery is both SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified and Certified Sustainable by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. With his head winemaker, Joe Freeman, Ron produces two well-defined brands, Ron Rubin Wines and the River Road collection. I received seven bottles of wine representing both brands. River Road Collection Most of the wines in this portfolio are priced from $14-$20, with the exception of a Pinot Noir priced at $30. The portfolio includes an extensive range of wines established by the winery’s former owners. Ron believes that good wine should be accessible, “exceptional wines at a great value.” A signature of this collection is its easy drinking style. Ron says, “I’m a fan of low alcohol wines. I keep the alcohol in check to produce elegant wines that you can enjoy, glass after glass.” Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay grapes are sourced from both estate-owned and family-owned vineyards. This is a fresh, light wine with nice aromas of citrus and hints of honeysuckle. A palate of green apple, grapefruit, pear and crisp acidity makes this quite refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14 Reserve Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay grapes for this wine are sourced from the Russian River Valley. The wine is aged in both oak barrel and stainless steel tanks. Floral, pear and vanilla aromas segue onto the palate with hints of citrus, apple, peach and lemon zest on the finish. Bright acidity and a creamy mouthfeel blend well together. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $18 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are sourced from the Alexander Valley. This wine is aged for nine months in French and American oak barrels. A juicy bouquet of berries, plum and baking spice continue onto the palate with blackberry, strawberry, dark cherry and toasted oak. Fresh acidity rounds out the palate with a smooth and pleasant mouthfeel. Alcohol: 13.9% SRP: $25 Pinot Noir Stephanie’s Cuvée 2017 Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from Green Valley and the wine is aged in 20% new French oak barrels. This wine opens with a bouquet of ripe red fruit, floral, baking spice and a touch of blueberry and raspberry. The palate offers lush blackberry, raspberry, spice, cocoa and a dollop of dark cherry and vanilla on the finish. It is a smooth blend of fresh acidity and tannins. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $30 Ron Rubin Collection These wines are mostly made with Russian River fruit made from blends of different estates that add complexity and consistency from year to year. Winemaker Joe Freeman says, “Differences in terroir are more important with Pinot Noir. For Chardonnay, it’s the clones that have more impact.” The wines carry a price tag of $14-$25. Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay 2018 When Ron Rubin bought the winery, his wife Pam asked him to please make an un-oaked version of her favorite white grape, Chardonnay. Ron and Joe Freeman set to work and one year later, Pam’s UN-Oaked Chardonnay made its debut. The grapes for this wine were sourced from Clarksburg, Lodi and Mendocino County. This is a fresh fruit, off-dry wine with plenty of juiciness and moderately low-alcohol. Citrus, lots of pear, sweet apples and nectarine envelop the palate. It is balanced with just the right blend of alcohol, acidity and sugar. And yes, there is the slightest hint of effervescence Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $14 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 Grapes were sourced and handpicked from an intricate blend of clones in the winery’s favorite vineyards. The grapes were barrel fermented with a mix of French and American oak. After fermentation, the wine was aged for over six months in oak barrels with another six months or so in the bottle. Pear, tart apples and baking spice greet the nose with an abundance of juicy pear, apples, honeydew and hints of minerality that entertain the palate. A creamy texture with a balance of bright acidity adds to the structure of this wine. Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $20 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 This wine is made mostly from Green Valley grapes grown on the estate with some grapes acquired from a few local, family vineyards. The wine was aged in new French oak barrels. Aromas of ripe red fruit, sweet spice, cherry, berries and a hint of herbs lead to a palate of sour cherry, cranberry, ripe red fruit, vanilla and a touch of earth. Soft tannins and crisp acidity round out this fruit-driven wine.
Alcohol: 13.7% SRP: $25 All of these wines are light, food-friendly and price approachable and they are fun to drink. Pour a little California sunshine in your wine glass! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com My last story was a virtual tour of the DÃO wine region in Portugal. Since it is so close to the Douro region, I thought it might be fun to “virtually” stop by Quinta do Crasto winery and taste a few of their wines. Quinta do Crasto is a fourth-generation, family-run business that has been in the family of Leonor and Jorge Roquette for more than 100 years. It is also one of the oldest winemaking estates in the Douro region. The earliest written records mentioning Quinta do Crasto and its wine production date back to 1615. One hundred forty years later, in 1756, the Douro became the first-ever demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. And in 2001, UNESCO sanctioned the Douro region as a World Heritage site. Quinta do Crasto is headquartered in the heart of Douro Valley, in Gouvinhas, a municipality of Sabrosa. It is one of the most picturesque parts of the Douro. Constantino de Almeida bought Quinta do Crasto in the early 20th century. He was famous for his wine house dedicated to the production of port. After his passing in 1923 Constantino’s son, Fernando Moreira d’Almeida, took on the management and production of high-quality Port wine at Quinta do Crasto. In 1981, Leonor Roquette, the daughter of Fernando Moreira d’Almeida, together with her husband Jorge Roquette assumed majority ownership and management of the estate. With the help of their sons, Miguel and Tomás and daughter, Rita they renovated and extended the vineyards and began producing Douro DOC wines, which the winery is now known for both domestically and abroad. The Douro may be famous for supplying the world with its production of port wine, however, it is now being praised for its succulent and refined unfortified wines, both red and white. And, Quinta do Crasto is producing top quality wines combining a state-of-the-art wine cellar with traditional methods of winemaking. In addition to port and unfortified wines, they also produce olive oil. Quinta do Crasto has four estates spread across the sub-regions of the Douro Demarcated Region of northern Portugal. The Douro experiences a hot, continental climate with each sub-region demonstrating its own unique topography, soil and water resources. Quinta do Crasto is a 335-acre estate of which 185 acres are planted to vines located in the Cima Corgo sub-region. Most of the vineyards are on south-facing slopes that extend from the banks of the Douro River to an altitude of almost 600 meters. The soils are of schist complex types that can absorb and retain heat. This combined with dry conditions and excellent sun exposure forces the roots to grow dozens of meters deep in search of water. All of these conditions contribute to the complexity and intensity of the wines produced. Small plots of old vines that total 98 acres are located on terraces with stone retaining walls to protect these older vines, some of which are a hundred years old. Quinta do Crasto recently expanded their vineyards to the Douro Superior sub-region with a new vineyard of 371 acres. I recently received two samples of Quinta do Crasto wine from the Cima Corgo sub-region. Crasto White 2018 This wine is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato indigenous grapes. 85% of the blend was matured in stainless steel vats and 15% of the blend was fermented and aged in used French oak barrels for three months. Light lemon in color, aromas of floral, citrus and pineapple give way to a fresh and lively wine on the palate. Notes of minerality are well integrated with a creamy texture and lemon zest on the finish. Rabigato contributes to the natural acidity, Gouveio contributes citrus notes and Viosinho adds dimension and texture. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with seafood, grilled fish, white meat and light pasta. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $20 Crasto Red 2018 This wine is a blend of 35% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 25% Touriga Franca and 10% Tinta Barroca indigenous grapes. 85% of the blend was aged in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and 15% in French oak barrels for six months. Deep purple in color, this wine has a heady bouquet of fresh ripe berries, floral and baking spice. The palate offers dark berries, plum, spice, anise, a hint of pomegranate and chalky minerality. Acidity, tannins and texture are nicely balanced. Pair with grilled meat, pasta, stews and grilled tuna.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $20 Both wines are well structured and exhibit freshness and balance. And, they pair well with many seasonal dishes. Pour yourself a glass of the “Douro Valley” and enjoy! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com We may not be able to travel by plane, train or car to explore wine regions at this point in time, but one can still open a bottle of wine originating from just about anywhere in the world. A bottle of wine embraces the essence of vineyards and terroir and can magically transport you to the region from whence it came. So, pour yourself a glass of wine and join me on a visit to the DÃO wine region from the comfort of your home. This past February, I attended a wine dinner in NYC to learn about the DÃO wine region of Portugal. Eugenio Jardim, a wine educator, Sommelier and Wines of Portugal US Ambassador, led a lively discussion and tasting of this region’s wines Portugal Portugal is located in the southwest corner of Europe in the Iberian Peninsula. It is the westernmost country of Europe, surrounded by Spain to the north and east, and the Atlantic Ocean to the south and west. The country is divided into fourteen regional wine areas, each with its own unique geography and climate. What makes Portugal so unusual with regards to wine is that it boasts a remarkable number of grape varieties that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. There are over 250 indigenous grape varieties officially registered in Portugal and many of these varieties are restricted to the national territory. The Alvarinho, Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are probably the most widely known by name. DÃO Wine Region DÃO (pronounced “down” with the emphasis of the “n” being drawn out) is one of Portugal’s most notable wine regions located in the center of northern Portugal and south of the well-known Douro Valley. Its name is derived from the Dão River along which many of the region’s vineyards are located. Dão is surrounded on all sides by granite mountains that completely protect the region from the direct influence of the continental climate here, including the cold and rain coming from the ocean. This natural topography provides ideal conditions for the vineyards. Eugenio said, “Dão is a gift of Mother Nature. It is a very unique and special place. The region is secluded and protected by the mountains; it has a long growing season and no drastic temperature fluctuation. The mountains provide a balmy, cooling effect on the vineyards.” Vineyards are located on plateaus with lots of sun exposure, ensuring the grapes reach perfect ripeness. Typical vineyard elevations are 1300 ft. to 1500 ft. The evening brings a significant diurnal shift in temperature that allows the grapes to cool down from the daytime heat, helping to retain the acids and freshness. Eugenio said, “Winegrowers are discovering that if they move up the mountain to 2500 ft., especially on the eastern border, the high elevation has perfect growing conditions for producing very concentrated grapes.” The soil content in the Dão region is 97% granitic with some schist, which contributes to the minerality in the wine. Dão region is spread over 388,000 hectares and has seven sub-regions that cover approximately 20,692 hectares (51,131 acres) of planted vines. Most of the vineyards and wineries are hidden and not visible from the road. Pine trees, broom, brushwood or walls obscure the vineyards and make it necessary to traverse mountain paths, riverbanks, or go through villages to find them. “Because only in secret can you produce a masterpiece. Dão wine.” A Brief History Dão is the second oldest wine region in Portugal, with the Douro being the oldest wine region, not only in Portugal but also in the world. The Douro became the first demarcated and regulated region in the world in 1756. In 1908 the Dão region was recognized for its perfect grape growing and winemaking conditions and formally became a demarcated region. The region maintained a good reputation for its wines until Dictator Antonio Salazar took power in 1932 through 1968 whereupon he decided to reform the agricultural and wine industry of Portugal. Salazar’s controlling policies was felt particularly hard when he decreed that all Dão wine had to be produced and sold by cooperatives for Portugal consumption only. The emphasis became quantity, not quality. After the old regime dismantled in 1974, changes were slowly made. In 1986 Portugal joined the EU (European Union) and rewrote its entire wine classification and demarcation system under EU rules. It was at this point Portugal began its rebirth and money started coming into the country and wine became a business. It has been flourishing ever since. Eugenio said, “Businesses started growing and with an influx of money, improvements in the wineries have been made over the years, including electricity for some. And for the first time, these wineries were able to refrigerate their tanks. Production of reds, whites, rosés and sparkling wines has increased. Refined winemaking is in place.” The Dão region became a DOC appellation (Denominação de Origem Controlada) in 1990. Younger generations of winemakers are now entering the business and embracing the traditional culture of winemaking while revolutionizing and modernizing the way wine is made and received. And what was once a male-dominated business is now seeing more female oenologists. Eugenio said that 60% of all oenology school graduates in Portugal are female. He also said, “ Wines are becoming more delicate, sophisticated and elegant.” Major Grapes Dão is home to many indigenous grape varieties. Most wines are made with the following: Red Grapes Touriga Nacional Alfrocheiro Aragonez-Tinta Roriz Jaen White Grapes Encruzado Malvesia Fina Bical Cerceal Branco Here is a description of the above grapes courtesy of Dão Rota Dos Vinhos. Touriga Nacional The noblest of the red grape varieties, it gives wines an intense red color, with purplish-blue shades when young. The resulting aromas are intense and highly complex, with traces of very ripe dark fruit flavors and a hint of the wild and the forest. The wines are full-bodied, persistent, robust on the palate and very fruity when young. They possess great potential for prolonged aging as they take on elegance and a distinct velvety aroma and taste. Alfrocheiro This grape variety contributes to the excellent balance between acids, sugars, tannins and good wine color, whilst also providing delicate fruity aromas that are reminiscent of ripe strawberries and take on greater complexity as time goes by. Aragonez – Tinta Roriz A grape variety that intensifies the aromas of ripe fruit, providing plenty of color and good alcohol levels. It is well known for its excellent balance marked by the quality of its tannins and its balance of body and acidity, resulting in very elegant, harmonious wines with a great potential for aging. Jaen The wines made from this variety are elegant, with a regular alcohol level, bright in color and very smooth, given the quality and mellowness of their tannins. But what sets this grape variety apart is its intense, delicate perfume, with a slight hint of raspberries. Encruzado This variety ranks first amongst white grape varieties. The wines are lemon in color, with a good alcohol level. They are highly delicate and elegant with complex aromas with vegetable, flower and mineral notes. Delicate and elegant in taste, they provide a notable alcohol/acidity balance. They have great potential for prolonged aging and surprise you with their freshness and persistence on the palate. This is the most balanced grape variety of the Dão region. Malvasia Fina Used to obtain lemon-colored wines, with intense, albeit simple, mainly flowery aromas, and balanced acidity and elegant finish of medium persistency. It has great potential for aging and its wines boast an extraordinary bouquet and change to a straw-yellow color. Of further note is the complexity of their aromas associated with delicacy, balance and elegance. Blended with other grape varieties from Dão, this variety transmits the “je ne sais quoi” and special personality of the white wines of the region. Bical This grape variety is used to obtain light yellow colored wines, with complex, delicate, relatively dry and elegant fruity aromas, and also provides a good alcohol level and low acidity. Cerceal Branco This grape variety produces lemon-colored wines with an intense, delicate fruity fragrance, the acidity of which gives it a lively taste. It is normally blended with other grape varieties to give them acidity and characteristic aromas. Eugenio took our palates on a “wine tour” of white and red wines. The lineup was impressive and we were not disappointed. Most of the wines were native blends except for a few bottles of 100% Encruzado, 100% Touriga Nacional and 100% Jaen. White Wines The common thread between the white wines we tasted was their complex aromas, high acidity, mineral edge and great texture. Citrus flavors played a second seat to the floral, orchard fruit and melon. All the white wines had alcohol levels hovering around 13%. Although most of the wines were blends, I had the opportunity to taste two 100% Encruzado that were elegant and left me wanting more! Eugenio said, “The Encruzado is a grape variety to keep your eye on. This variety is only used in the Dão region and can be compared to Chablis and Chardonnay. It is not widely planted and most of these grapes are blended with Malvasia Fina.” Red Wines The majority of Dão vineyards are planted with red grape varieties. Red wines from the Dão tend to be lighter in style than most reds found in other wine regions of Portugal. Firm tannins, bright acidity, floral, ripe red or black fruit and spice can be found in the various styles and blends. Touriga Nacional (used for port) tends to be the main grape used in Dão red blends. All of the reds I tasted were dark ruby in color with intense aromas, yet delicate and full of complexity. Alcohol levels averaged between 12.5% and 13.5%. Having never tasted Jaen, it was a treat to try a 100% Jaen wine. It was well structured and complex with cherry, plum, spice and mouthwatering acidity. It is another age-worthy wine to put on your radar.
Simply put, Dão wines are elegant and complex, with natural acidity and age-worthiness. Not only is the Dão region a gift from Mother Nature, but the wines produced here are a gift as well! Pour a glass of Dão wine and embrace the essence of the region without ever having to leave home! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Zenato Winery’s tagline “The soul of Lugana and the heart of Valpolicella” encapsulates the essence of this winery located in Veneto in northeastern Italy. Sergio Zenato and his wife, Carla, founded Zenato in 1960. Sergio’s life long dream was to create a winery and produce memorable wines reflecting the “fruits of the earth” from which they were grown. His vision was realized and today these expressive wines are the result of his tireless efforts, love for his land and passion for quality. Both children, Nadia and Alberto Zenato, now run the winery. Nadia manages the marketing and promotional activity and Alberto is the winemaker who oversees all aspects of production. Zenato has 95 hectares of vineyards that stretch from the banks of Lake Garda in Lugana to the hills of Valpolicella’s “classic zone” in the province of Verona. The Santa Cristina estate is located in San Benedetto di Lugana where Trebbiano di Lugana grapes are grown. Lugana DOC is a small denomination that produces only white wines and is renowned for its distinctive morainic terroir of penetrating humid clay soils and rich minerals deposited by the glacial moraines of thousands of years ago. The wines are naturally high in acidity with characteristic aromas of white flowers and citrus. Zenato’s Costalunga estate in Valpolicella produces the famous grape varieties Corvina, Rondinella, and Oseleta. Valpolicella is considered the most famous red wine area in Veneto and was given DOC status in the 1960s. There are many styles produced here such as Classico, Superiore, Amarone and Ripasso and they range from light and easy-drinking to powerful and complex wines. I had the pleasure of tasting three Zenato wines that are great examples of what this winery produces. Lugana di San Benedetto DOC 2018 This wine is made from 100% Trebbiano di Lugana harvested from the San Benedetto vineyard on the south shore of Lake Garda. A pale lemon color opens to heady aromas of floral, citrus and stone fruit. Beautiful notes of white flowers, peach, pear and minerality sate the palate with a hint of apricot on the finish. This wine has a round, creamy mouthfeel that is blended nicely with crisp acidity. Drink as an aperitivo or serve with fish, light salads and Asian cuisine. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $20 Alanera Rosso Veronese IGT 2017 This wine is a blend of 55% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 10% Corvinone, 5% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fifty percent of the grapes harvested for this wine are partially dried for 45 to 60 days. The highly concentrated juice from this process adds an array of aromas, flavors and complexity to the blend. A period of 12 months is spent aging in French barrels with another three months of bottle aging. Lovely aromas of cherry, plum, tobacco, floral and spice segue onto the palate with added flavors of dried herbs, prune and vanilla. It is a perfect blend of silky tannins and acidity with the bonus of a long and luxurious finish. Serve with meat, stews, aged cheese and fatty fish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $20 Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore DOC 2015 This wine is a blend of 85% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta. The Ripasso method is a technique where the Valpolicella wine is re-passed onto the pressed dried grape skins from which Amarone is made that are still warm and rich in sugar. A second alcoholic fermentation begins which increases the alcoholic content and the wine becomes richer in color and bouquet. The wine is aged in French oak for 18 months and an additional six months in the bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with intense aromas of dark fruit, plum, spice and forest floor. The palate is layered with rich, ripe fruit such as cherry, plum and blackberry. Hints of baking spice, dark chocolate and minerality show through with creamy tannins and are nicely balanced with acidity and alcohol on a long finish. Serve with meat, game, pasta and hard cheese.
Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $30 These are expressive wines and a great representation of Zenato. And, they have definitely captured the heart and soul of Lugana and Valpolicella! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com For me, there is nothing like pouring a glass of wine that not only sates my palate but can also conjure up sweet memories. And this quote from Coppo says it perfectly. “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste. This doesn’t have anything to do with its aromas or flavors, but of a sensation that awakens memories of pleasant times.” Piero Coppo founded Coppo winery in 1892 and it is one of the oldest family-run wineries in Italy spanning four generations. Piero’s philosophy was about making quality wine, not quantity. His sense of ethics, attention to detail, perfection, passion for the land and his vision for the future have been passed on from one generation to the next. Below is a photo of the four brothers representing the third generation with fourth-generation Luigi in the middle. This historic winery is located in the famous commune of Canelli, a subzone in the province of Asti in the Piedmonte region of Italy. Canelli is noted for its important role in history for being the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine made with Moscato Bianco grapes. Canelli became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2014 and it is famous for its surrounding historic vineyards and intricate subterranean wine cellars called “Underground Cathedrals”. These cellars weave in and out of Canelli for about 20 miles. Part of these historical wine cellars are located at Coppo Winery and are a UNESCO World Heritage site. While visiting Coppo a few months ago, fourth-generation Luigi Coppo gave us a tour of these impressive cellars. He said, “In parts of this tunnel there are over 42 meters of dirt above us. The tunnels are ideal for storing wine because it is stable in here with constant and perfect temperature and humidity. This all-natural tunnel was built in the late 18th century with an addition in 1920 that took only one week to build”! Below is a slideshow of the Underground Cathedrals. Photo credit: Penny Weiss Coppo built their business producing sparkling wines, but by the beginning of the 20th century, their production expanded to making classic Piedmontese reds, most notably, Barbera. Piero’s son, Luigi (second generation) entered the business in the late 1940s and was responsible for restoring and modernizing the winery. He also brought with him a passion for French wine. During the 60s and 70s, the winery began importing wines from Burgundy and Champagne. Luigi’s four sons (third-generation) entered the family business between the 70s and 80s). Inspired by the great French wines that their father imported, the four brothers infused their personal style in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines and Chardonnay. Coppo is one of the first producers in the area to make Chardonnay, although Chardonnay and Pinot Nero have been growing in the hills around Canelli since the early 1800s. Monteriolo Chardonnay is dedicated to their father Luigi and the first vintage was introduced in 1984. Here is a bottle shot of the 2017 Monteriolo Chardonnay that I tasted while at the winery. It was exquisite! Unlike many other wineries, the third generation made it their mission to maintain the quality of Barbera over quantity and ensure that its elegant character was preserved. This brought about a change for stricter management in the vineyards, lower yields, hand harvesting and introducing barriques during maturation, making Coppo at the cutting edge of Barbera’s rebirth. These changes helped to give the wines more complexity and richness. The 1984 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso was the first harvest, becoming the symbol of the winery. The fourth-generation, cousins Max and Luigi, are focusing on “a new style of communication”, called the Internet! By engaging the younger generation of wine lovers while blending “a lighter side of wine” with traditional values they hope to introduce their palates to affordable and quality wine. Today, the major part of Coppo production is focused on Barbera, Metodo Classico sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Moscato d’Asti. Coppo also makes classic DOCG Piedmontese wines such as Gavi and Barolo. It is interesting to note that due to the winery’s historical importance, they have been granted permission to make Barolo outside of its zone of production. The Coppo estate covers over 52 hectares of vineyards with the heart of productive vineyards in Monferrato in Southern Piedmont. Here is where Moscato Bianco and Pinot Nero are grown. Barbera grapes are grown in Agliano Terme and Castelnuovo Calcea located in the heart of the subzone, Nizza. Coppo also manages the estate La Rocca situated in Monterotondi di Gavi, where the Cortese grapes are grown. As stated by Coppo, “Since 2001, Coppo winery has followed an official protocol for integrated agriculture that sustains farming practices with low environmental impact. The winery goes above and beyond the regulations, and for several years now has decided to follow agricultural methods in the spirit of organic and biodynamic agriculture, while not being officially certified.” I asked Luigi how climate change might be affecting vineyards and production. His reply, “Climate change exists and of course, it is impacting our vineyards and production. What we are experiencing in the last years is an anticipated ripeness of our grapes, which means an anticipated harvest. It does not mean this is worse or better but we have to follow nature. We are experiencing higher temperatures now and that means higher alcohol. But please consider alcohol is not a problem if the wine is well balanced. For some specific varieties such as Barbera, we cannot control or decide what is the right amount of alcohol because we have to manage the acidity and so we have to pick the grape when the grape is ripe. We can pick grapes earlier but it won’t work out well.” I asked Luigi what the biggest challenge Coppo might be facing in the vineyards. He responded, “There is not a specific challenge. According to my father and uncles stories back in the day, the harvest season was more or less predictable. Today it is different and we have to “react” quickly. Every day is different and every harvest (thank god) is different too.” Upon my return home from visiting the Coppo estate, I received six bottles of their wines. The wines transported me back to Canelli “awakening memories of a special time.” These wines are all gems and worthy of review. Coppo Moncalvina Moscato D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli. It is a light, sweet wine with floral and stone fruit aromas that transcend to the palate. It has a natural light fizziness and is very refreshing. Alcohol: 5% SRP: $15 Coppo Costebianche Chardonnay 2017 This is 100% Chardonnay that is harvested from Piemonte DOC appellation. 20% of the must is fermented and aged on fine lees in French oak barrels of 2nd and 3rd-year use. This is a delightfully fresh and fragrant wine with notes of floral, stone fruit, apple and a hint of lemon. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Coppo La Rocca Gavi DOCG 2018 Gavi is a classic white Piedmontese wine made with 100% Cortese grapes. Cortese is one of the region’s oldest native grapes. The Tenuta La Rocca vineyard has marly calcareous soils that contribute to the wine’s mineral complexity. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach and pineapple lead to a palate of minerality, grapefruit, green apple, honeysuckle and a nice balance of fresh acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $20 Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2018 This wine is made with 100% Barbera. Wonderful aromas of juicy red berries and spice tickle the nose with a palate full of lively acidity, cherry, berries, pomegranate, spice and a hint of nutmeg. Raspberry and spice linger on a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $17 Coppo Camp Du Rouss Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2016 I love the story that goes with the name of this wine. “Camp del rosso” in Italian means “the redhead’s field”. ‘Camp’ in Piedmontese means vineyard. The first owner of this vineyard was a redheaded man who was so burly, he frightened the children. However, the wine is far from frightening! It is 100% Barbera that has been aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Intense aromas of red fruit and spice lead to a palate of sour cherry, red berries, cranberry, spice and a hint of dark chocolate. This is a well-structured wine that lingers on the palate and begs for another sip. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $23 Coppo Pomorosso Barbera D’Asti Nizza DOCG 2016 This wine is the most prestigious Barbera produced by Coppo. Its fame is owed to the significant part it played in the rebirth of this variety. With the release of the 2016 vintage, the wine bottle bears the new Nizza DOCG designation. This took years of collaboration to elevate the status of this vine growing region. The Coppo family along with other prominent Barbera d’Asti producers was involved in this effort and is now proud to represent this new designation. Grapes are sourced from 50 to 60-year-old vines in the Nizza DOCG appellation. The wines are aged from 14 to 18 months in French oak. This is a beautiful wine with nicely integrated tannins and acidity. Intoxicating aromas of red fruit, dark cherry, floral and baking spice segue onto the palate with dark plum, dark berries and a touch of sour cherry, pomegranate and herbs. I tasted the 2017 vintage while visiting Coppo and was reminded of how expressive this wine is. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $55 Every wine bottle is adorned with the symbol of a cherub. While visiting Coppo I photographed the statue, which sits on a shelf in their tasting room. I asked Luigi what its significance is. Luigi said, “This is a gift given from a sculptor to my great grandfather at the very beginning of the 20th century. It is a little angel (Cupido) trying to stop the fermentation of a bottle of sparkling wine (gran spumante). It became the logo and mascot of the winery.” Of course, I was secretly hoping that the cherub was trying to capture the aromas and essence of the sparkling wine! Although I couldn’t capture it on camera, the family motto is engraved at the cherub’s feet. “Robur et salus” (strength and health). Tasting all of these wines again was a treat for my palate. And it was wonderful to be briefly transported back to Piedmonte. Coppo definitely got it right when they said, “We like to imagine our wines leave an emotional aftertaste.” They certainly do! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com Today’s post is short, but I felt that this wine deserved extra attention rather than just giving a “shout out” on social media. If you haven’t yet read my story, “Two Cultures + Two Estates = Elegant Wines”, then please click on the link below to catch up and learn about Bodegas Caro and its very special wines. Trust me, it’s worth the four-minute read! http://thewineknitter.com/1/post/2020/01/two-cultures-two-estates-elegant-wines.html The first vintage that was born out of the collaboration between the Catena family and Domaines Barons de Rothschild was Bodegas CARO 2000. It’s success led to two more wines that I reviewed in the above story. After tasting and reviewing Amancaya and Aruma Malbec, I was delighted to recently receive a bottle of CARO and I must say, it was worth the wait! Bodegas CARO 2016 is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Malbec. Grapes are selected and hand-harvested from the best blocks of the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. This wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels from Lafite’s cooperage. It is a beautifully structured wine with deep ruby tones and aromas of dark berries, plum, spice and a hint of cedar. It takes your palate on a happy journey with layers of juicy dark fruit, plum, baking spice, anise and a lingering taste of sour cherry on a long finish. It is a perfect balance of acidity and tannins and it will only get better with age. And I look forward to tasting this vintage again in a few years. Serve with hearty meat dishes, stews and seared tuna.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $64.99 Bodegas Caro wines are a stunning blend of two cultures, history and tradition that are poured into every bottle of wine produced. They are simply elegant! Until next time! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com While visiting Asti in the Piedmont region of Italy a few months ago, I spent an afternoon at a walk-around tasting of the ASTI DOCG wines. One of the tables that I stopped by was Fontanafredda where I met the delightful Chiara Destefanis, Communications Director for the estate, who poured a variety of delicious sparkling wines for me to try. Little did I know that just a short six weeks later I would be sitting across the table from Chiara at a winemaker’s luncheon in New York! Only this time the emphasis was on Fontanafredda Barolo wines. Giorgio Lavagna, Fontanafredda’s lead winemaker was there as well to guide us through an impressive tasting of current releases and a few library treats dating back over 20 years. Fontanafredda estate is located in the Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy. It all began with a love story. In 1858 King Vittorio Emanuele II bought the Fontanafredda estate as a gift for his beloved and favorite mistress, Rosa Vercellana aka “La bela Rosin”. They had two children together, who eventually inherited the estate, Maria Vittoria and Emanuele Alberto, Count of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda. In 1866, the king bought the first vineyard of Barolo and by 1870 winemaking began in the cellars of Fontanafredda using the indigenous grapes Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo. The king’s son Count Emanuele Alberto of Mirafiori turned the estate into a full commercial winery with over 741 acres of wine vineyards. Fontanafredda released their first Nebbiolo labeled as Barolo with the 1878 vintage, the same year that the king passed away. The count is credited with making Barolo legendary and turning Fontanafredda into a village, complete with a church and school. After the count’s passing in 1894, his second son, Gastone took over. Unfortunately, Phylloxera, several wars and the economic depression took a toll on the wine business. A bank bought the estate and cellar, and the brand was sold to the Gancia family in 1931. It wasn’t until 2009 that Fontanafredda was sold to Piedmont native, Oscar Farinetti and Luca Baffigo Filangieri. The 250-acre estate is in Serralunga d’Alba, which is a cru site of Barolo, and it is the largest contiguous wine estate in the Langhe. With the new ownership in 2009, sustainability became a special focus and today Fontanafredda is the largest certified organic company in Piedmont, beginning with the 2018 harvest. The climate is typically continental in the Langhe with rain usually arriving in the spring and fall. Rainfall amounts vary and can be a large determinant in the diversity of the harvest from one year to the next. Soil here is mainly calcareous, but composition can change every 10 meters or so with more sand or higher content of loam and clay. Our tasting began with 2012 Alta Langa DOCG Contessa Rosa Rosé Sparkling wine with the addition of Barolo 1967! This wine is named after the king’s mistress, Countess Rosa Vercellana. It is an aromatic and fresh wine with berries, a hint of herbs, fine bubbles and balanced acidity. Giorgio said, “The Barolo is added to the wine to give smoothness”. Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2015 This is the first single-village Barolo ever produced since 1988. Giorgio said, “the soil in Serralunga has a strong influence, helping to produce grapes with strong tannins and high acidity, making the wine more age-worthy. 2015 was a very good vintage.” This wine is velvety even with the pronounced tannins. It has great structure and balance and the fruit is lush with cherry and spice. Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda 2013 This wine is considered an “old-style” vintage with aging in oak casks for two years and then 12 months in the bottle. (This is minimum aging allowed for the DOCG) It has lots of spice, red fruit, tart cherry and silky tannins. It is quite expressive and has a lengthy finish. Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2011 and 1996 No one really knows if this 20-acre vineyard is named after the king’s love for Countess Rosa or a tribute to the wild roses that grow on the top of the hills. I’d like to think that it is named after the countess. After all, it is one of the most prestigious vineyards on the estate. It is a perfect scenario for growing grapes with a landscape in the form of an amphitheater and rows of vines facing south and southwest, capturing the heat and helping the grapes to ripen. The soil also contributes with its rich mixture of sand, limestone and blue marl of Serralunga. All of this results in exquisite Barolos with floral aromas, fine tannins and balanced acidity. The 2011 vintage is complex with a rich palate of dark berries, spice, soft tannins and a long finish. Sergio called the 1996 vintage, “old-style Barolo that is dark and brooding”. Although the aromas were leaning toward stewed fruit such as plum and cherry, along with sweet spice and forest, the palate was surprisingly rich with traces of dark cherry, plum and herbs. The finish was long and impressive. Barolo 2010 Riserva and 2000 Riserva Barolo Riserva is only made in exceptional years and comes exclusively from Fontanafredda’s estate vineyards within the communes of Serralunga d’Alba and Barolo. To be considered a Riserva, the wine must age for five years, three years in the barrel and two years in the bottle before its release. Giorgio said, “A minimum aging of three years in barrel is required for Riserva wine, but sometimes even five years is not enough. The wines need to express themselves, and only time can do that.” Barolo Riserva 2010 has enticing aromas of red berries, cherry and spice. The palate is layered with dark berries, plum, sour cherry, spice and silky tannins. Riserva 2000 aromas are softer with very ripe (almost overripe fruit) and spice. The palate shows softer fruit and less spice than the 2010 vintage. There are hints of sour cherry and anise with a silky mouthfeel and long finish. As we sipped and ate lunch, Giorgio reminisced about Barolo winemaking in the 1970s. “I didn’t produce wine in the 70s, I just tasted it. Everything was by chance and depended on the moon phase. No studies were being done. In the past, farmers and winemakers went on their own paths, each with their own role. There was no communication”. Thankfully, all of that has changed and communication is key between grower and winemaker. They say it takes a village to raise a child. It also takes teamwork and the right climate and soil to produce these expressive and elegant wines!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at wineknittercomments@gmail.com |
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