Did you know that Spain is ranked as the number one country in the world with the most area of cultivated grape vineyards? And when it comes to wine regions and varieties of wine produced here, there is no shortage of topics to write about. Spain is rich in history where wine has played an important role since before 3000 B.C. Today my focus is Jumilla (pronounced who-ME-ah), a small wine region in southeastern Spain approximately 50 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The area is composed of over 22,700 hectares of vineyards that stretch between the provinces of Murcia and Albacete, of which over 40% are located in the town of Jumilla. And there are over 2000 viticulturists here who diligently care for each vine. I recently had the opportunity to explore this beautiful area with its breathtaking views, history, and delicious cuisine. And at every twist and turn of the road, one can find acres of olive and almond trees, in addition to wine vineyards. Jumilla DOP oversees and regulates the region’s wine producers, growers, wineries, and co-operatives. It is one of the oldest Designations of Origin in Spain, established in 1966. While in Jumilla, I met with many winemakers and tasted numerous styles of the expressive wines of the Monastrell grape variety, a specialty of this region. It was a whirlwind trip that included sunset tastings in vineyards, incredible dining, and visiting over fourteen unique wineries. In the coming months, I will introduce and feature these wineries, a few at a time. But for now, regard this article as an introduction to royalty! Jumilla is considered the birthplace of Monastrell, a hearty and resilient red grape variety (known as Mourvèdre in France). It is this region’s principal grape variety and makes up approximately 80% of the Jumilla DOP vineyard surface. Monastrell is called “Queen of Jumilla” by the winemakers here. Although this title bears no historical or romantic tale, be assured that her reign is supreme, having endured a challenging landscape for centuries. When I asked why this grape was given the title “queen” instead of “king,” the answer was simple.“Grape variety in Spanish is “feminine” – uva or variedad so “queen.” It is easy to see why this grape is considered royalty. Monastrell is a late-ripening grape that thrives in the intense heat of this region. It is a low-yielding thick-skinned, small berry with compact grape clusters. Monastrell has adapted to the hot, arid conditions here, making it a resilient variety with high resistance to drought and most plant diseases, including phylloxera. The landscape consists of broad valleys, plains, and mountain ranges that weave in and out of this region. Jumilla climate is considered Continental even though it is close to the Mediterranean Sea. It experiences over 3000 sunny hours a year, with frequent dry winds and temperatures reaching 104 degrees in the summer. Vineyards range in altitude from 1,049 ft (considered the valley) to 2952 ft. Vines benefit from the high elevation due to cool evenings, which alleviate them from the scorching heat of the day. Rainfall amount tends to be scant, with approximately nine inches of rain annually but can differ depending on the location. And although one might consider this region desert-like, it is not exempt from frost and torrential downpours that might endanger the vines. The soil here has good depth and is comprised mainly of limestone and gravel with occasional chalky soil in some areas. The soil has a high capacity to retain water which is conducive to vine-growing. And, as a result, the majority of Jumilla’s vineyards are dry-farmed (irrigation is not necessary). One winegrower said, “Deep roots of these vines are able to find water during droughts.” For generations, sustainable farming has been in practice here, with 70% of the surface area certified in organic viticulture. Jumilla is also home to Europe’s single largest collection of 90-year-old ungrafted bush vines. (Ungrafted means the original roots). Jumilla DOC said, “The character of the wines from Jumilla make them stand out among products from other areas due to what is known as “terruño,” a magical combination of grape variety, soil composition, the orientation and pruning of vines, and the climate.” Monastrell wines are purplish in color and run the gamut from light and lively to bold and complex, with intense flavors that vary depending on where the vines grow. One can expect fruit-driven flavors characterized by heightened aromas, powerful tannins, and medium acidity. Generally speaking, Monastrell wines are quite aromatic with ripe red and dark fruit flavors, balsamic, herbs, and spice. From barrel tasting to bottle pours, from new to old vintages, stainless steel to oak/concrete aging methods, and food pairings, I sampled Monastrell in all its finery. In addition to making a 100% Monastrell wine varietal, this grape also blends well with varieties such as Garnacha, Merlot, and Syrah. These red blends are succulent and full-bodied and leave one’s palate singing. And if you are looking for something a little lighter, Monastrell rosés are a winner. They run from dry to fruity with a pleasant floral bouquet, fresh fruit flavors, and crisp acidity. Other grape varieties that are permissible in Jumilla DOP are: Red Cencibel, Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot White Airen, Macabeo, Pedro Ximénez, Malvasía, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and small grain Moscatel The cuisine of Jumilla is impressive, and the red wines pair well with everything, even desserts! Some of the traditional food I tasted included Manchego cheese, paella, gachamiga, goat, rabbit, and everyone’s favorite, roasted almonds! Many of the local dishes are salt-cured such as tuna and Ibérico ham. The salt is sourced from Valle del Carche, a local mountain salt mine dating back over 2000 years. All of the wineries that I visited combine traditional and modern techniques in the vineyard and winery, which I will explore further when I highlight each winery in future articles. However, the common thread among all of the wineries I visited is the apparent pride, enthusiasm, passion, respect, and love for the land that they all have. The expression, “I wear my heart on my sleeve,” comes to mind when I think of everyone I met in Jumilla. When not sipping wine, there is much to discover here. The Volcano of Cancarix is the only volcano in the Iberian peninsula that is not active because its “chimney” was destroyed by erosion. I stood in the crater where bush-trained Monastrell vines grow in the volcanic and very rocky soil. Take a tour of the Jumilla Archeology Museum, or hike the ancient ruins of Tolmo de Minateda, a 3000-year-old city. The Castle of Jumilla was built in 1461 and is worth the hike to take in the breathtaking views below. Enjoy this slideshow! It was indeed an honor to visit the “Queen of Jumilla” and meet all of her protectors! Monastrell is undoubtedly worthy of the title! So be on the lookout for future articles about Jumilla wines and wineries. And in the meantime, treat your palate to a glass of this royal wine, and let me know what you think! Jumilla wines are available throughout the United States and are easy to find.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It was another bumpy ride this past year, with many of us feeling as though we were on an endless roller coaster ride. So as we usher in the New Year, let’s be optimistic and forge ahead by embracing new adventures, tackling our bucket lists, and celebrating one another! Be kind, be gentle, and step into the New Year with grace and dignity! To quote Rumi, “Raise your words, not voice. It is rain that grows flowers, not thunder.” I’m kicking off 2022 with six red wine recommendations and food pairings that are sure to please your palate and warm your heart and soul during the long winter months! Volver Tempranillo Single Vineyard 2018 Bodegas Volver was founded in 2004 by fourth generation viticulturist Rafael Cañizares. This 100% Tempranillo wine is sourced from a high-altitude (2000+ ft.) single vineyard called Finca Los Juncares, located in the eastern part of DO La Mancha, Spain. Fermentation takes place in new French oak barrels, and the wine is then aged for 15 months. Nose: Dark fruit, anise, and baking spice. Palate: Juicy blackberry, sour cherry, and plum with notes of mocha, kirsch, and toast lingering on a long finish. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $16 Pairings: Grilled meat, stews, tapas, or roasted lamb. Riva Leone Barbaresco DOCG 2017 This delicious wine is 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from vineyards in the Piedmont region of Italy. It is aged for a minimum of two years in oak, of which one year is in French and American oak barrels. Nose: Red fruit, cherry, spice, a touch of rose petals, and earth. Palate: Tart black cherry, red plum, pomegranate, berries, spice, and fennel. It is beautifully balanced with soft tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $25 Pairings: Roasted meat, fowl, seared tuna, risotto, hearty stews, or aged cheese. Wilson Winery Three Dog Zin 2019 Founded in 1992, Wilson Winery is located in Dry Creek Valley, Healdsburg, in Sonoma County, CA. This whimsical label features original art from local artist Mylette Lynch. A portion of proceeds from each bottle sold is donated to local animal shelters and non-profit rescues to support adoption services, medical care, and more. The wine is 100% Zinfandel aged for 22 months in French and American oak. Nose: Fresh red berries, spice, and floral. Palate: Lush notes of strawberry, pomegranate, baking spice, and fennel. Nicely balanced acidity and tannins with a long finish of spice and berries lingering on the palate. Alcohol: 15.7% SRP: $32 Pairings: Grilled meat, tuna, hearty stews, or pasta with prosciutto and fontina. Borsao Tres Pico Garnacha 2019 Bodegas Borsao established the Cooperative of Borja in 1958, which is a group of winegrowers dedicated to preserving the quality and integrity of Garnacha. Located in DO Campo de Borja, Spain, the grapes for this 100% Garnacha were sourced from vineyards in the famous Moncayo mountain. This flagship wine was the first 100% Garnacha wine produced in Spain in 2000. The wine is aged five to six months in new bordelaise barrels of French oak. Nose: Beautiful aromas of floral, red fruit, and a touch of spice. Palate: Dark plum, blackberry, black raspberry, baking spice, and vanilla. It is a well-structured and rich wine with smooth tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $19 Pairings: Barbecue, grilled vegetables, rice and pasta-based dishes, cheese, and hearty stews. Quatro Quarti Nero d’Avola Appassimento Sicilia DOC 2019 This wine is produced by Cantine Ermes, founded in 1998 in the heart of Belice Valley in Sicily. They have an impressive 10,592 hectares of vineyards spread across Sicily. Once harvested, Nero d’Avola grapes are slightly dried (appassimento) in a special room to go through the natural process of dehydration. After fermentation, the wine ages for four months in French oak barrels. Nose: Ripe berries, spice, and a touch of floral. Palate: Lush dark berries, dried fruit, a hint of vanilla, and silky tannins with spice and cocoa lingering on the finish. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $10-$15 Pairings: Pasta, Grilled meat, chicken, cheese, stews, or risotto. Time Waits For No One Red 2020 Finca Bacara, founded in 2016, is a winery located in Jumilla, in southeast Spain. The vineyards are certified organic, and this wine is 100% Monastrell, a hardy grape capable of withstanding extreme heat and drought. I had the opportunity to taste this wine while visiting Jumilla in November. With the New Year upon us, I find this quote about the wine from Finca Bacara very timely. “How often do you talk about the concept of Time in a conversation? “Life is short and every time is limited.” “We should spend more time together.” “Live the moment to the fullness” … The name of this wine came to us in one of those random conversations. Then we elaborated the idea with more attention to detail and, of course, our time. So enjoy it your way and explore the meaning of time. It's as simple as that. Crafted with care for random conversations.” Nose: Intense ripe fruit, smokey, with a hint of herbs. Palate: Lush red fruit, spice, balsamic notes, with nicely balanced tannins and acidity. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $15 Pairings: Grilled meat, fowl, pasta, paella, or charcuterie and cheese board. I wish everyone a healthy, happy, and safe New Year!
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] When one thinks of wines from the western part of the United States, in all likelihood, California pops up first. However, the Pacific Northwest is also known for its fine wine production from Oregon and Washington. These northerly states benefit from the warm days and cool nights, resulting in ripe fruit and fresh acidity in the wines. Oregon is known for its production of Pinot Noir, and Washington has a reputation for its fine Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling, and Chardonnay. Here are four wines representing both states for your palate to explore. Mack & Schühl, a Miami-based national importer, recently launched United Ink, a new portfolio of wines from the Pacific Northwest, bringing together two of the most acclaimed winemakers, Joe Dobbes (Oregon wine) and David Forsyth (Washington wine). Mach & Schühl said, “Joe and David’s shared philosophy is to showcase the quality of the Pacific Northwest’s wine regions by creating modern versions of the classic wines of the old world.” Each eye-catching label depicts an animal symbolic of that particular region. United Ink Dry Riesling 2020 This wine is 100% Riesling sourced from a single vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills sub-appellation of Columbia Valley AVA in Washington. Nose: White stone fruit, honeysuckle, and citrus Palate: Fresh acidity, tropical fruit, melon, and is a touch sweeter than the “dry” on the label. Well-balanced though, and the acidity shines through. Drink as an aperitif or pair with seafood, grilled chicken, and veggies. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $12 The label for this wine features a Sockeye salmon found in vast quantities in the Columbia River and its tributaries. United Ink Red Blend 2019 The blend for this wine is 60% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from multiple single vineyards in Columbia Valley’s AVA Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope sub-appellations. Nose: Cherry, dark berries, and a hint of floral Palate: Dark and sour cherry, blackberry, raspberry, baking spice, and tantalizing acidity with a spicy finish. Pair with grilled meat, barbecue, Asian cuisine, or seared tuna. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $18 This label features a Cougar native to the Pacific Northwest. United Ink Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 The grapes for this wine are sourced from single vineyards in Columbia Valley’s AVA Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope sub-appellations, and the wine is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Nose: Floral, plum, baking spice Palate: Fresh fruit, plum, baking spice, a hint of tobacco, and medium tannins. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $18 Pair with grilled meat, hearty stews, spicy appetizers, or pizza. This label depicts an American Bald Eagle, commonly seen all over Oregon and Washington wine country. United Ink Pinot Noir 2019 This wine is 100% Pinot Noir, with grapes sourced from vineyards in Oregon’s renowned Willamette Valley and Dundee Hills wine appellations. Nose: Cherry, spice, floral, and a hint of anise Palate: Ripe fruit, sweet and sour cherries, dark chocolate, and nicely integrated acidity with smooth tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $22 Pair with game, swordfish, cheese, and smoked salmon. This label is of a Black and White Magpie, considered one of the most intelligent birds in the world and found throughout the vineyard regions of Oregon and Washington.
Happy tasting! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Read my latest article for Santé Magazine about the wines of Croatia. Click the link below.
https://santemagazine.com/wines-of-croatia-an-overview/ Yes, we are making a quick stop to the heart of Douro Valley again to revisit Quinta do Crasto and review three delicious wines! Here is a re-cap of Quinta do Crasto from a previous article. Quinta do Crasto is a fourth-generation, family-run business that has been in the family of Leonor and Jorge Roquette for more than 100 years. It is also one of the oldest winemaking estates in the Douro region of Portugal. The earliest written records mentioning Quinta do Crasto and its wine production date back to 1615. One hundred forty years later, in 1756, the Douro became the first-ever demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. And in 2001, UNESCO sanctioned the Douro region as a World Heritage site. Quinta do Crasto is headquartered in the heart of Douro Valley, in Gouvinhas, a municipality of Sabrosa, and is one of the most picturesque parts of the Douro. With the help of Jorge and Leonor’s sons, Miguel and Tomás, and daughter, Rita, they produce top-quality Douro DOC wines, in addition to port and olive oil. Quinta do Crasto has four estates that spread across the sub-regions of the Douro Demarcated Region of northern Portugal. The Douro experiences a hot, continental climate, with each sub-region demonstrating its unique topography, soil, and water resources. Quinta do Crasto is a 335-acre estate of which 185 acres are planted to vines located in the Cima Corgo sub-region. Most of the vineyards are on south-facing slopes that extend from the banks of the Douro River to an altitude of almost 600 meters. The soils are of schist complex types that can absorb and retain heat. This, combined with dry conditions and excellent sun exposure, forces the roots to grow dozens of meters deep in search of water. All of these conditions contribute to the complexity and intensity of the wines produced. Small plots of old vines that total 98 acres are located on terraces with stone retaining walls to protect these older vines, some of which are a hundred years old. They recently expanded their vineyards to the Douro Superior sub-region with a new vineyard of 371 acres. So, let’s taste some wine! Crasto Superior Red 2016 Douro DOC The grapes for this blend are sourced from 15-year-old vines in the Douro Superior sub-region and are a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and Souzão. The wine is aged for approximately 12 months in French oak barrels. The color is royal purple with aromas of ripe berries, a hint of cherry, and baking spice. Dark berries, plum, licorice, spice, and firm tannins abound on the palate. This wine is nicely structured with a long finish. Pair with grilled steak, seared tuna, hearty stews, or a charcuterie board. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $29 Quinta Do Crasto Reserva Old Vines 2016 Douro DOC The estate has 40 hectares of old vines spread throughout 42 vineyard lots. Among them are the famous Vinha da Ponte and Vinha Marie Teresa. Dozens of mixed varieties are planted in these plots. The grapes for this wine are sourced from old vines averaging around 70 years of age, with mixed plantings of 25 to 30 different grape varieties. This wine is aged in French (85%) and American (15%) oak barrels for 18 months. This is an elegant wine with a dark ruby color. An expressive nose of berries, anise, spice, and earth give way to a layered palate of dark fruit, berries, spice, a hint of minerality, and firm tannins. The finish is long, with notes of dark berries and cocoa lingering. Serve with game, hearty stews and soups, or grilled dense fish. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $45 Quinta Do Crasto Touriga Nacional 2016 Douro DOC The grapes for this 100% Touriga Nacional are sourced from the best Touriga Nacional plots of Quinta do Crasto estate and only bottled in the best years when the highest levels of quality and excellence are achieved. This wine ages for 18 months in French oak barrels. Touriga Nacional’s signature bouquet of violets is present in this deep purple-colored wine. Other aromas include fresh berries, spice, and oak that segue onto the palate with notes of dark chocolate and blackberries lingering on a long finish. This wine has excellent structure and smooth tannins. If allowed to age another year or so, it will develop even more complexity. However, it is ready to enjoy now. Serve with hearty cuisine.
Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $78 All of these wines are amazingly fresh with beautifully concentrated flavors. I used my Coravin system on all three bottles and am looking forward to opening them within the next year! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] What happens when three French wine-loving friends decide to produce a unique wine collection? An explosion of flavors in simple but sexy single-serve bottles happens. That’s what! Nicolas Deffrennes, Régis Fanget, and Valérian Déjours, long-time friends, got together, merged their ideas and passion for wine, and created Le Grand Verre. (LGV) (great big glass) Through the wonders of Zoom, I met Nicolas and Régis, along with winery owner Inèz Andrieu of Domaine Caylus and winemaker, Gérald Damidot of Château Val D’Arenc, and enjoyed tasting four of LGV wines. It all began with Nicolas, founder of LGV, whose “eureka moment” came to him when he was a member of a wine club while attending Harvard University. He gained so much knowledge and joy from tasting many different wines that he wanted to give other people the opportunity to experience what he did without opening an entire bottle. So, together with his friends Régis and Valérian, they set out on a mission with the focus of featuring small, independent boutique wineries with an emphasis on quality, organic and sustainable practices, and of course, designing a single-serve bottle for the wine. They toured through France, meeting with many estate owners and winemakers, sampling a lot of wine, and connecting with people. Nicolas said, “We looked for authenticity. The process of choosing winemakers is not just about finding wines that this beautiful little bottle deserves, but it is about the people and connection. It is the authenticity of relationships and products.” Most of the wines crafted for LGV are produced from female-owned estates or female winemakers. The recycled, shatter-proof bottle is double-layered PET that preserves the aromas and flavors. Nick said, “The two layers keep the wine fresh.” Régis added, “The design is elegant but pure and simple. You see the wine, not the bottle.” Each bottle holds 6.3 ounces of wine. LGV Domaine Caylus Rosé Blend 2020 Domaine Caylus is located in the Pays d’ Herault, in the Languedoc-Roussillion region. Inèz Andrieu is a third-generation owner and winemaker of the estate. She converted their 25-acre estate to organic farming in 1999, stressing the importance of preserving the land and lifestyle. The blend for this rosé is 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache from their certified organic vineyards. This wine has wonderful aromas of floral, red berries, and tropical fruit that carries over to the palate with strawberry, cherry, and cream. It is juicy and a delight to sip. Inèz says, “It is rich and concentrated.” And, I agree! Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $24.99 for a 4-pack LGV Domaine Caylus Chardonnay 2020 This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from Domaine Caylus certified organic vineyards. Inèz said, “This is pure Chardonnay. No oak is used, and it is produced using minimal intervention.” The color is golden with a tinge of green. The nose offers floral, melon, and white stone fruit. Lush notes of white fruit, peach, lemon, and apple satisfy the palate. Just lovely! Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24.99 for a 4-pack LGV Château Val D’Arenc Bandol Rosé 2020 Château Val D’Arenc is located in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. They have 25 hectares of organic vineyards thanks to the young and innovative winemaker, Gérald Daimidot, who arrived in 2015 and converted the entire estate to organic farming. With 20 years of winemaking experience, Gérald says, “I am a very passionate winemaker. I focus on choosing the best grapes and making food-friendly wines. And this wine is made to pair with gastronomic food.” Gérald takes wine and gastronomy very seriously and recently opened a restaurant! This rosé is a blend of 80% Mourvédre, 10% Grenache, and 10% Cinsault. The Mourvédre gives the wine its beautiful natural color. Aromas of fresh red fruit, melon, citrus and peach segue onto the palate with berries and spice notes. Gérald says, “This wine has a lot of texture and is spicy with pepper.” It also has a beautiful mouthfeel and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $29.99 for a 4-pack LGV Château Peyredon Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 2019 Château Peyredon is located in Haut-Médoc on the Left Bank in Bordeaux. It is owned by Stéphane & Laurence Dupuch. They are committed to organic farming and preservation of the land. This is a classic Bordeaux blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot. The grapes were sourced from over 100-year-old vines. The nose offers dark berries, baking spice, and a touch of earth. Juicy notes of dark berries, a hint of strawberry, and vanilla linger on the palate for a long finish. It is a fresh and elegant wine. Régis said, “This is a very fresh wine with succulent dark berries.”
Alcohol: 13% SRP: $29.99 for a 4-pack There are 20 wines in the LGV portfolio representing French regions such as Bordeaux, Provence, and Languedoc. The “trio amis” continue to explore vineyards throughout France and anticipate expanding their portfolio in the coming year. These are delicious wines in easy-to-transport bottles. They are available throughout the US and are sold in 4-packs ranging from $20 to $30. I’m looking forward to tasting more of these impressive wines. Seriously, where else can you enjoy premium French wines without having to open an entire bottle? Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Read my latest story for Santé Magazine. Click the link below. https://santemagazine.com/the-magic-of-donnafugata/ Until next time... Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected]
It is the dog days of August, and there is no escape from the heat and humidity for some. Hydrating with lots of water is essential, but come “cocktail hour,” one might want to end the day with something more “flavorful.” My pick for this week is three light and refreshing wines from Scheid Family Wines. Scheid Family Wines, founded in 1972, is located in Monterey AVA of California’s central coast. It began as a grape-growing company, selling 100% of its production to other wineries. Today this family-run and owned winery produce and bottle their own wine from estate vineyards that stretch along a 70-mile spread of the Salinas Valley. Their portfolio includes seven brands. From the very beginning, the family was environmentally conscious, which is reflected in their vineyards and winemaking practices. “From our start in 1972, we’ve held firm to the belief that growing the highest quality wine grapes and crafting the best wines possible can only be achieved through taking care of the land and our people. The best wines come from healthy vines.” Scheid Family With 12 certified sustainable estate-grown vineyards in Monterey, the Scheid Family champions low-impact farming methods. This includes composting 100% of the winery’s grape pomace, stems, and seeds in the vineyards and recycling 100% of the winery wastewater. Their state-of-the-art winery is also certified sustainable and powered by 100% renewable wind energy. In addition, Scheid Family Wines is organically farming 1500 acres of their estate vineyards with the objective of establishing 100% organic farming methods in all of their estate vineyards by 2025. Here are three wines representing three brands from their portfolio. Ryder Estate Pinot Noir Rosé 2020
Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from sustainably farmed vineyards on the central coast. This wine begins with tantalizing aromas of berry, cherry, floral, and a hint of earthiness. The palate is fruit-forward and lush with strawberry, cherry, and a touch of rose petals on the finish. It is crisp and refreshing with bright acidity. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $15 District 7 Chardonnay 2019 The Chardonnay grapes for this wine are sourced from District 7 sustainable estate vineyards in the cooler wine-growing regions of Monterey. 25% of the wine was aged in new French oak for 14 months and 75% in stainless steel tanks. Lovely aromas of citrus, pear, stone fruit, and vanilla segue onto the palate with tropical notes and sweet apples. A nice finish of citrus, vanilla, and cream lingers on the palate. This wine is crisp, balanced, and very refreshing. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $18 Scheid Vineyards Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2020 This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from five estate vineyards in the Monterey appellation, including Scheid. The wine is aged for four months in stainless steel tanks. Citrus, white stone fruit, and a hint of exotic fruit aromas lead to a palate of fresh fruit that includes subtle herbal notes and a touch of minerality. Crisp acidity and a dab of lemon zest on the finish will certainly please the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $22 Drink these wines as an aperitif or pair with appetizers, seafood, salads, roasted chicken, or light pasta dishes. Enjoy and stay cool! Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Every bottle of wine has a story, whether it’s the history behind the winemaking, the grapes, region, or the memory attached to drinking it. This is a story of an Albanian family who has striven and succeeded in making a difference in war-torn Kosovo. The story begins with Rrustem Gecaj, an Albanian American who immigrated from Yugoslavia in 1974 to escape communism and the hardships that came with it. After living in Italy and then Canada, Rrustem was granted a visa to the United States in 1976. He made his home in New York City, became a United States citizen, and with his wife raised their children in the surrounding suburbs. Through wise real estate investments and other fruitful business ventures, Rrustem amassed an impressive portfolio. However, the ravages of the Kosovo War that raged from 1998-1999 weighed on him, and he longed to return to Kosovo to help rebuild the economy and create jobs for those less fortunate who had survived the war. It was also his dream to reconstruct the family kulla (“stone house” in Albanian) that was destroyed in the war. Kullas were created by the countrymen and date back hundreds of years. A kulla is traditionally made of four-cornered walls, each three feet thick and usually two to three stories tall. They are mostly windowless towers/fortresses that were built as a social center for the extended family, as well as for defense. Many businesses and wineries in Kosovo were once state-owned properties, including Stone Castle. Built in 1953 by the Yugoslavian government, the winery was originally known as NBI Rahoveci. When many businesses became privatized in 2006, Rrustem saw an opportunity to fulfill his dream. So, with enthusiasm and determination, Rrustem returned to Kosovo with the Gecaj family and purchased the NBI Rahoveci winery renaming it Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery. In 2008, Kosovo was recognized as an independent state. Kosovo is located in the Balkan region of southeastern Europe, and Stone Castle is situated in the heart of the Rahovec Valley, Kosovo’s premier, and dominant wine region. This region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with sunny days most of the year and ample rainfall during the summer. It is, therefore, an ideal area for growing grapes. The soil is rich in clay and limestone with elevations that can reach 1700 feet above sea level. Avdi, Rrustem’s son, said, “Our soil is fertile with no need for irrigation systems due to the sufficient amount of rain.” In Kosovo, two-thirds of vineyard plantings are red grape varieties that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and indigenous varieties such as Vranç, Prokupac, and Zhameta. White grape varieties include Chardonnay and Riesling, with the most planted and indigenous white grape variety, Smederevka. I recently sat down with Rrustem’s three sons, Avni, Avdi, and Arben. These amazing young men, who inherited their father’s passion for Kosovo and tenacity and vision for the wine business, have taken over the reins of Stone Castle. In 2015, Avdi took over the winery’s operations, and he spends approximately nine months of the year in Kosovo. Avni is the importer, distributor, and manager of the family wines. And Arben, the youngest brother, is finishing his Master’s degree in marketing and joining his brothers in the family business. I was curious why their father chose to buy a winery instead of a factory or other business. Also, is there a history of winemaking in the family? Avni replied, “My father had no background in wine.” He explained that his family came from generations of farmers, such as cattle farmers, sheepherders, and basically anything that had to do with farming. With all the factories and businesses that had become privatized, his father saw the greatest opportunity and potential in revitalizing the winery. Avdi said, “It is one of the only companies still operating since privatization. There are 32 registered wineries in Kosovo, and they are micro-wineries. Stone Castle is the largest.” When the winery was first purchased, there were only 250 hectares of vines, and all were uncultivated and neglected. Before the war, Kosovo had over 9000 hectares of vineyards with over a 2000 year history of winemaking. Advi explained that the Yugoslavian government ordered the farmers to rip out most of the vines, and in so doing, self-destructed the wine industry. With determination and lots of help, their father revitalized and saved the vines at Stone Castle. My next question was, who helped guide the family with the renovation of the winery and restoration of the vineyards? “We had winemakers come from countries such as Germany, America, Australia, and England to consult with us. Our three head winemakers have been at the winery for 35 to 40 years, since before the privatization. We also have two new winemakers from this region, three chemists in the house, and a certified lab.” Avdi added, “In fact, we have more certifications in the lab than the government of Kosovo! Our up-to-date technology allows us to better analyze the wine.” Avdi went on to say, “My father’s main objective, along with his nephew, was to give the people of Kosovo jobs and hope. We want to take the original business plan and expand it. We’re operating at one-third capacity and need to grow. We need to plant new seeds, open new markets and give the people of Kosovo more hope, more jobs and push the industry forward.” Avni said, “We want to put Kosovo on the map as a great wine region. We’ve already won over 100 awards for our wines from all over the world.” Since the purchase, they have planted close to 500 hectares of new vineyards. Seeds were planted in 2017, covering 50 hectares for their organic joint project with the European Commission, and they introduced Stone Castle’s first organic vintage in 2020. A small portion of the Stone Castle estate is certified organic, and they are slowly making their way into converting the older vineyards. The winery is committed to sustainable practices and is currently working on its Kosher certification. In addition to the state-of-the-art facilities, their underground wine cellar has an impressive storage capacity of 50,000 HL wooden barrels. Stone Castle is transitioning from bulk market to bottle. They use entirely different tanks for the estate as opposed to locally grown grapes. And they have created a 3-tier system for the farmers to encourage them to reach the first-class level and produce the best quality grapes possible. Stone Castle grows 19 varieties of grapes, including Vranç, an indigenous variety genetically related to Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz (this spelling is used in deference to the Australian winemaker who they consulted with), and Chardonnay. Stone Castle is now distributing these premium varieties in the United States. With over 250 people employed full-time and up to 700 part-time seasonal workers at Stone Castle, Rrustem is fulfilling a dream of giving jobs and hope to the people of Kosovo. In addition, the winery is producing some very impressive wines. Here is a sampling of six wines from the estate. Ancient Vranç Gjergj Kastrioti 2018 This wine is 100% Vranç and pays tribute to Gjergj Kastrioti, the Albanian prince and symbol of national unification whose name is featured on the label. Grapes are hand-harvested from the Lisdrevish vineyard that sits at an altitude between 1148 ft. and 1475 ft. The wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for nine months. This was my first experience drinking Vranç, and it was delicious! Aromas of red berries, baking spice, and earth segue onto the palate with notes of dark cherry, pomegranate, plum, blackberry, and spice. It is a rich wine that will pair well with grilled meat, hearty stews, and seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Shiraz 2018 The grapes for this 100% Shiraz are hand-harvested from the estate’s Izbishte vineyard located in the northeastern part of the property. The micro-climate here contributes to the production of high-quality grapes with optimal acidity. The wine is aged for 12 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. There are many berry aromas with dark plum and blueberry dominating the palate, with soft tannins and a touch of pepper on a lengthy finish. Serve with game, fowl, fish, or pasta with vegetables. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Merlot Selection 2018 The finest grapes for this 100% Merlot are hand-harvested from the Fushe – Zoqisht vineyard, which has high sun exposure sitting at an altitude of 1475 ft. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 20 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit and violet spill onto the palate with notes of cherry, berries, earth, and a touch of minerality. It is smooth and easy to drink. Pair with appetizers, spicy cuisine, pasta, or grilled chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Chardonnay Reserve 2018 The best Chardonnay grapes from the estate are hand-harvested from two high-altitude vineyards, Sapniq and Izbisht. The wine is aged for six months in French oak barrels. The nose offers a lovely floral bouquet and a hint of baking spice. This is a clean, crisp wine with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, and a soft creamy texture. It is fresh and balanced. Serve as an aperitif or pair with assorted cheese, grilled fish, seafood, or light pasta dishes. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 The grapes for this 100% Cabernet are hand-harvested from the Nashpall mountainside vineyard during late harvest. Vineyard exposure to prolonged sunlight contributes to quality grapes. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. A bouquet of dark fruit and a touch of earth segue onto the palate with silky tannins and notes of plum, black raspberry, and cherry. A touch of herbs and pepper linger on a long finish. Pair with grilled meat, hearty soups or stews, seared tuna, and grilled vegetables. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $24 Gecaj Estate Owners Choice 2017 This is the signature wine of Stone Castle. And, what is more fitting than to have an eagle, the symbol of Kosovo, on the wine label? It is a 50/50 blend of the estate’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The fruit is hand-harvested from the Izbisht vineyard at an altitude of 1640 ft. and receives 10 to 12 hours of sun each day. The wine is aged for 24 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. This is a vibrant and elegant wine with seductive aromas of red fruit, vanilla, and spice. The palate is layered with black raspberry, plum, cherry, anise, fig, pepper, and hints of dark chocolate. Silky tannins add to the wine’s complexity and depth. Pair with grilled meat, hearty stews, game, pasta, or a charcuterie platter. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $80 I asked why their father chose “Stone Castle” as the winery name. Avdi said, “In my house, we had a kulla that went back four generations. Kullas are made of mountain rocks in the region, and Kosovo has an abundance of granite and marble. Kullas were created as fortresses, but also where rules and regulations of the towns were made. If a rule was broken, it was discussed and judged in the kulla. When the Serbs invaded Kosovo during the Yugoslavian War, they were ordered to destroy as many kullas as possible using rockets and grenades. In 2001, my father went back to Kosovo and rebuilt the family kulla, which is the largest in the region right now. It is a historic site, and he did it for the people to show that you can’t destroy us; we will build back up! My father knew that one day Stone Castle would be an international enterprise, and so he named it in honor of the destroyed kullas and for the people of Kosovo. The Stone Castle Winery entrance is new, and a tribute to the kullas destroyed in the war.” As Rrustem’s sons continue to fulfill their father’s vision by growing, expanding the business, and providing more jobs and opportunities for a recovering Kosovo, they also have some impressive plans in the making. They are building a beautiful resort, a fairy tale stone castle, on the premises. It will be seven stories tall, with 82 guest rooms, a world-class restaurant, pools, golf course, bicycle and horseback riding, vineyard trails, and wine tastings. They said, “It is a destination spot for the Balkans.” I’m ready to book my reservation!
As we concluded our interview, I asked if there might be anything else they would like to say. Without hesitation, Avdi answered, “Kosovo is ready for the world!” Avni and Arben nodded in agreement. And, I concur! I will end this article with a quote from Rrustem. “For us, Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery convey a special sense of place, history, and growing traditions. Our wines will help share positive images of Kosovo, our people’s potential and capabilities.” Until next time... Cheers! Penina This article was originally published in Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It’s time to board the plane and fasten your seatbelt. We are heading to Spain on my virtual private jet to explore Jumilla and the Monastrell grape. Jumilla (pronounced who-ME-ah) is a small wine region located in southeastern Spain. “The area begins in Tobarra mountains, a natural crossroad located between Alicante, Albacete, and Murcia, around 50 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The vines stretch out across more than 19,000 hectares of land, and over 2,000 viticulturists painstakingly care for each and every one. There are 45 registered wineries in the provinces of Murcia and Albacete, of which 40% are located in the town of Jumilla.” This quote is taken from Jumilla.com Jumilla is the birthplace of Monastrell, a red grape variety (known as Mourvèdre in France). Jumilla also boasts being home to Europe’s single largest collection of 90-year-old ungrafted bush vines. Viticulture and winemaking have been a fundamental part of Jumilla for over 5000 years, and it is one of the oldest DOPs (denominación de origin Protegida) in Spain, established in 1966. Jumilla climate is considered Continental even though it is close to the Mediterranean Sea. It experiences over 3000 sunny hours a year, with frequent dry winds. This high altitude and arid area with scorching days in the vineyards benefit from the cool evenings due to the high elevation. The soil is mainly comprised of gravel and limestone with good soil depth and a high capacity to retain water, all of which are conducive to vine-growing. The Monastrell grape is a late-ripening grape that thrives in this intense heat. It has adapted to these hot, arid conditions, making it a resilient variety and resistant to drought. Monastrell makes up approximately 70% of the Jumilla DOP vineyard surface. In addition, sustainable farming has been in practice for generations, with 70% of the surface area certified in organic viticulture. The wines produced here tend to be bold with fruit-driven flavors and characterized by intense aromas, powerful tannins, and medium acidity. Here are three wines representing a range of expressions to delight the palate. All of these wines are made with 100% Monastrell and are hand-harvested. Jumilla Rosado, DOP 2020 Bodegas Alceño, producer Grapes were harvested from 40-year-old vines in an organically farmed vineyard at 2690 feet altitude. This organic rosé presents lovely floral, strawberry, and raspberry notes on the nose. A palate of refreshing acidity and juicy berries continue to an impressively long finish. Drink as an aperitif or serve with seafood, grilled fish, light pasta, or sushi. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $10-12 Jumilla Tinto Joven, DOP 2020 Bodegas Xenysel, producer The grapes for this wine were harvested from 25-year-old vines growing in sandy-clay and limestone gravel soils at 2,133 feet altitude. This wine is unoaked and certified organic. Aromas of violet, dark berries, and cherry segue onto the palate with blackberry, spice, and grippy tannins. It is balanced and structured with a lengthy finish. Pair with cheese and meat appetizers, grilled meat, or chicken. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $10-14 Jumilla Tinto Crianza, DOP 2018 Bodegas Olivares, producer Grapes were harvested from vines of over 60-years-old. The vineyard is situated at approximately 2,706 feet altitude. This wine was aged 12 months in 300-litre French oak barrels and 10,000 litre oak vats before bottling. Succulent aromas of dark fruit, baking spice, and fig set the stage for this expressive wine. The palate offers blackberry, dark cherry, tobacco, balsamic, spice, and a hint of cocoa, ending with a long finish. Serve with hearty stews, grilled meat, game, aged cheese. or seared tuna. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $15-18 These are excellent wines at incredible prices! I’m looking forward to exploring more styles from Jumilla.
Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] |
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