“Family, History & Heritage” - Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau

This past September, I toured the Côtes de Bordeaux region in France and had the opportunity to meet with many estate owners throughout its five appellations.  Not only were the wines a treat for my palate, but the down-to-earth enthusiasm and passion for the land and all things wine were a constant presence and a joy to experience.

Photo credit: Penny Weiss

My last day of this magical tour was with the Rey family, owners of Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau. The fog was dense, and the air held an odd mixture of sweet blooms and smoke drifting from the fires burning in Bordeaux, but I was excited about the visit and ready to embrace this last adventure before returning home.

Photo credit: Penny Weiss

Most of my time at Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau was spent with Fanny Rey, whose primary role is export manager, although she likes to call herself a “poly worker.”  In addition to export management, traveling, and arranging wine tastings, she works in the vineyards, helps her older brother in the cellar, and even drives the forklift. “I go where I’m needed,” Fanny said.  She also divulged that she studied opera and International Business before returning to the Domaine in 2008.

Fanny: “My brother knew at age seven that he wanted to be a winemaker.  I didn’t want to be in the business and needed to explore other options. While away, I gained an appreciation for wine. Eventually, I realized that family, history, and heritage are important.  It’s better at home.”

When I asked Fanny what generation she is, she answered, “I don’t know exactly.  We go back to the 18th century, but I am 4th or 5th generation for sure!”

Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau dates back to 1763. A legal document dated January 15th, 1763, proves that the family was settled here.  

Fanny: “Originally, it was a small village with five families.  Little by little, my great-grandparents bought the existing houses and now it is just our family.”

Fanny’s parents, Christian and Pascale, live at the Domaine, and Fanny and her brother Laurent live in their own homes nearby. Laurent studied at the Faculty of Oenology in Bordeaux and joined the Domaine in 2006 as a winemaker. Being is a family affair, everyone was busy, so it was catch as catch can with taking photos!  

​Fanny explained more about the family’s history.

Fanny: “Our history began with a woman.  The maternal side was the strength of the family through several generations. This is important because it was usually passed from father to son, but not in our family.  For generations, the business passed from mother to daughter. It wasn’t until my grandmother gave birth to my father that it changed.”

I asked if any of the women made wine.

Fanny.  “There were no women winemakers in my family, but they helped in other ways. At one time there was a belief in France that if you allowed a woman in a wine cellar, it would not be good, and the wine would spoil. But, of course, that belief does not exist today!”

And who makes the wine today?

Fanny: “My grandfather, Simon, who passed away about 25 years ago, made wine.  Now my father and brother are the winemakers, but mostly my brother. My grandfather (Simon) was called a heretic because he always harvested the grapes after everyone else, at least 15 days later.  He said, “A good mature fruit will make a good wine.  A good grape is one you want to eat.” That tradition is still used today with our harvesting. My grandfather felt it was important to go beyond what everyone else was doing. He came from Spain and began working in the Bordeaux area when he was 14.”

Simon eventually met Huguette, daughter of Germaine and Remi, and once married, they worked together, expanding the domain in Huguette’s family. Sadly, Huguette passed away two days ago, shortly before this article was published. Simon named the domaine in the 1970s. And the first bottle of wine was produced under the Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau label in 1973.

Fanny: “Little by little, the wine business grew, and my grandparents began to bottle the wine and sell it in France.  In 1982, my parents joined them, and they began selling the wine outside of France.”

The domaine is located in Blaye, the largest of the five appellations in Côtes de Bordeaux.  Blaye covers 6500 hectares located on the Gironde Estuary. The majority of vineyards here are cultivated on hillsides benefiting from ample sunshine conditions with a primarily temperate climate and a maritime influence. These fruit-forward wines also benefit from the rich terroir, with mostly clay-limestone soil around the town of Blaye. To the north, sand and gravel are suitable for Sauvignon Blanc, and more varied soils are in the southeast. Each estate is about 15 hectares, and red wine production dominates. 

Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau is the exception to the rule regarding owning land in Blaye. What once was just a farm with less than ten hectares of vineyards, cereal grains, cows, chickens, and barrel making,  is now 70 hectares of vineyards and an additional 30 hectares of land made up of surrounding forest to preserve the biodiversity in the vineyards.  The average age of vines is about 30 years, with the oldest vines over 50 years old.  They have an HVE-3 certification (high environmental value), the highest level given in France for the entire farm operation.

Fanny: “We respect nature and use chemicals sparingly and with strict restrictions. Five weeks before harvest, no spraying is allowed on the vines.  The chemicals used are so precise only small insects are affected. Everything else is untouched and unharmed.”

The soil is clay and gravel at the top of the hills, and on the sides of the hills, it is clay and very powdery limestone. Fanny explained that when the soil is very dry, the limestone hardens like stone and helps to retain heat during the night.
The valley has well-drained sandy soils.  Below is a photo of the hardened limestone with copper inside. It is pretty heavy!

Photo credit: Penny Weiss

The vineyards are comprised of the following grape varieties.

White wines
Sauvignon Blanc 9.70 hectares
Colombard  0.06 hectares

Red Wines
Merlot  47.50 hectares
Cabernet Sauvignon 5.10 hectares
Cabernet Franc 1.50 hectares
Malbec 0.50 hectares

Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau has 12 wines in its portfolio, two dry whites, four reds, one rosé, one sweet, three sparkling, and one limited edition.

Their flagship white is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and they have two flagship reds, Cuvée Tradition, and Cuvée Prestige.

We tasted four wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 100%
Five months in stainless steel vats.  Aromatic, good acidity, fresh and well-balanced.

Cuvée Prestige White 90% Sauvignon Blanc 10% Colombar
Fermented in oak barrels and aged for eight months in new oak barrels.
Very aromatic, complex and dry, with subtle tropical notes and white stone fruit.

Cuvée Prestige AOC Red 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec
Aged 18 months. 30% in new oak and 70% in used oak.
Full-bodied, light, and fruity with spice, cherry, dark fruit, nice acidity, and a touch of sour cherry on a long finish.

Grand Vin AOC 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec
This special cuvée is not made every year. It is aged for 18 months in new oak barrels.
A beautiful bouquet, concentrated and fruity with smooth tannins.

These wines are worth seeking out. Check online to see where you can purchase them!

Fanny talked about climate change and its impact on winemaking.

Fanny: “Blaye is protected from many climate change issues, such as hail and frost, because we are close to the river. My father likes climate change because the grapes can mature longer. The intense heat began in the summer of 2003.  We had some good years and some bad years. In 2007 we needed to take a different approach.  We were observing three different levels of maturation on a vine. So we bought a sorting machine that senses and weighs the grapes, selecting only the mature grapes.  This ensures a good quality wine.  Concerning the lack of water, it is difficult, but we are lucky here because again, we are close to the river which provides microclimate conditions. But vines can still experience hydric stress. Our up-to-date technology makes it easier to address any issues.  Blends will have to change because grapes are producing higher and higher sugar levels, especially Merlot.”

Before ending the visit, Fanny drove me a short distance to walk in the vineyards and see their mill dating back to the 18th century.  We climbed to the top of the mill, and I was greeted with breathtaking views of 20 hectares of vineyards and beyond.  A video taken from the top of the mill is below, followed by a slideshow.

The Domaine’s average production is 350,000 bottles/per year.  65% is sold in France, and the rest is mainly distributed in Europe, with a small presence in the USA, which they hope to change.

Fanny: “Our objective is to keep the quality high, prices low, and increase our volume.”

Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau’s motto: “A family…A passion…The expression of a terroir.”

Until next time…

Cheers!
Penina

All photos for this article are by Penny Weiss and copywrited.

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